iPad 9 LTE Headphone Jack Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 60 Steps
For your own safety, let that battery chill out and drop below 25% before diving into the guts of your iPad.
Get ready to swap out that headphone jack in your iPad 9 LTE! Just a heads-up, this guide is tailored for the LTE version only—if you're rocking the Wi-Fi model, click here for the right info. Before diving in, make sure your battery is below 25% charged; it’s a smart safety move to keep fire risks at bay during your repair adventure. If your battery looks like it's been hitting the gym and is swollen, take extra care! When isolating the battery with a blocker, be gentle—those contacts are delicate and can get damaged easily. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for screws) to avoid shorting the battery or messing up sensitive circuits. Some of the photos in this guide might be from a different model, so there could be a few visual quirks, but don't worry, they won’t throw you off track. Happy fixing!
Step 1
Make sure to turn off your iPad before starting this adventure!
- Warm up that iOpener and stick it on the left edge of your iPad for a couple of minutes. Time to get cozy!
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you're giving the adhesive a bit of time to chill, keep an eye on these sensitive areas that are easy to damage if you're not careful:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little tool we've cooked up to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not rocking the Anti-Clamp, just skip down three steps for a different approach.
Want to master the Anti-Clamp? Dive into this guide for all the deets.
If your iPad's surface is playing hard to get and the Anti-Clamp can't grip it, just slap on some tape for a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug backwards to set the Anti-Clamp's arms free.
- Nestle your iPad on a cozy object so it sits perfectly between the suction cups.
- Set the suction cups close to the middle of the left edge—one up top and one down below.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and give a firm press on the top cup to create some suction magic.
Step 4
- Gently pull the blue handle forward to secure those arms in place.
- Give that handle a smooth clockwise twist for a full 360 degrees, or until you see those suction cups begin to stretch out nicely.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they stay in sync with each other. If they start to wander off course, just loosen them up a tad and realign those arms. You've got this!
Step 5
Take it easy! Just give it a gentle twist—no more than half a turn at a time. After each turn, chill for a minute and let the Anti-Clamp do its magic. You've got this!
For detailed tips on how to handle a hair dryer like a pro, check out this guide.
If that Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough wiggle room, just warm things up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn to get the job done.
- Hang tight for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little opening for you.
- If your screen is playing hard to get and isn't warming up enough, feel free to grab a hair dryer and gently warm up the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and opened up a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Go ahead and skip the next step.
Step 6
- Once your screen is feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, getting as close to the edge as you can.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame.
If your screen’s cracked up pretty badly, try sticking a layer of clear packing tape on it—this can help the suction cup stick better. If that doesn’t do the trick, grab some super-strong tape instead of the suction cup for a solid hold. And if all else fails, don’t worry, a little superglue on the suction cup should get you back on track. Just keep it steady, and you’ll be good to go!
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just gently pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but keep in mind you might end up with some sticky adhesive that's a bit tricky to clean up.
- Slide a second opening pick into the little gap you just made – you're doing great!
- Gently glide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of your iPad to help loosen up that pesky adhesive.
- Once you've made some progress, leave the pick nestled in the bottom-left corner to keep that adhesive from re-sealing and making things tougher.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep that sticky stuff separating like a pro.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your iPad to break that adhesive seal like a pro!
- Once you've got it in there, leave the pick in that top-left corner to keep the adhesive from being all clingy again.
Step 10
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the top edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
Insert the pick no more than 7 mm deep to keep that ambient light sensor safe and sound.
- Gently twist the pick around the iPad’s top-left corner to loosen the adhesive and get that screen ready to pop off.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera; you wouldn't want to accidentally give that lens a bad day! Follow these steps to keep it safe and sound.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, making sure to pause just before you get to the front camera. You've got this!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop the pick back in place and gently slide it up towards the top-right corner of the iPad to fully separate that pesky adhesive.
- Leave the pick where it is in the top-right corner to keep that adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the right edge of the iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
Careful now! Slide that pick in no more than 4 mm to keep the ambient light sensor safe and sound.
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and start the separation.
Step 17
The display cables are located about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. When you're about three inches away from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding.
- Slide a fresh opening pick into the groove and glide it toward the center of the iPad's right edge. You're on the right track!
Step 18
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the bottom edge of the iPad a cozy two-minute hug. Let's get that adhesive nice and toasty!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner—doing so could put the antenna in a tricky spot.
The third image gives you a peek at the bottom-left antenna hanging out under the digitizer. Keep an eye out for it!
- Gently slide your bottom-left pick into that charming little corner, helping to gently break the adhesive's hold.
- Keep that pick cozy in the corner before you dive into the next exciting step!
Step 20
Be careful when sliding the pick—keep it towards the home button! Going the other way could mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
- Pop a new opening pick into the little gap you just made along the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
- Gently slide an opening pick into the little gap you just made. You've got this!
- Now, ease the pick under the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner, ensuring that just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame. Nice and smooth!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently towards the home button, and steer clear of pushing it away. We wouldn't want to accidentally give your antenna a bad day!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Pop that pick back in and give it a gentle nudge toward the home button to fully break free the sticky bottom adhesive.
- Keep that pick parked to the right of the home button as you move on to the next steps!
Step 23
- Warm up that iOpener and place it on the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Go slow and steady, making sure the adhesive is nice and soft. Use your opening pick to carefully separate all of it. If you need to, don’t hesitate to stop and reheat. Better safe than sorry!
If you're feeling a bit of a struggle here, no worries! Just reheat those edges and gently work along them with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist those opening picks into the left corners of the iPad, giving the digitizer a little lift while smoothly breaking free the last bits of adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer up to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad a bit more.
Step 26
Heads up! Gently wiggle around the two display cables with your opening pick to keep them safe and sound.
- As you hold the digitizer steady, gently wiggle an opening pick in between the two display cables to loosen the last bit of adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady, and you'll be through in no time!
Step 27
- After you've loosened all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and let it rest flat beside the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're planning to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things snug.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while reassembling. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers, and gently peel away any tape that's keeping those LCD screws under wraps.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place.
Tools Used
Step 30
The LCD is gently sticking to the frame.
- Gently slide a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Take your time and carefully pry with the spudger to loosen the adhesive.
Tools Used
Step 31
- Now, move on to the top-left corner of the LCD and repeat what you just did. You've got this!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don’t go yanking that LCD out just yet—it's still got a flex cable keeping it company.
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.
- Carefully flip the LCD over like turning a page, lifting near the camera and folding it back over the home button area of the frame.
- Set the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot so you can easily access the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the tiny 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. You got this!
Step 34
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like beneath the logic board. Keep these handy while you carefully unplug the battery!
You'll notice the battery connector has these nifty cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are stuck down pretty well, you'll want to slide something slim and flexible between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Watch out when you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker! Those battery contacts can be a bit temperamental – they bend or break easily, and that could lead to some serious damage. Keep it cool and handle with care!
Make sure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up, just like a proud banner waving in the wind!
Be gentle with the battery blocker—no need to muscle it under the connector! If it’s giving you a hard time, a trusty playing card can step in to help disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board, without any hiccups. Once it’s in place, it should sit at a cozy 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you carry on with the next steps.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those pesky screws! Carefully unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws that are holding the display cable bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 37
- Take off the display cable bracket with a smile!
Step 38
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this one, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle, since a misaligned connector can bend pins and cause permanent trouble.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the LCD off and carefully place it face down on a clean, soft surface that's free of lint. This will keep it safe and sound while you work your magic!
Step 40
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back the tape that's holding the home button cable ZIF connector in place. Nice and easy – you got this!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 42
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector with a steady hand.
Tools Used
Step 43
When working on your iPad, remember to gently pry only at the connectors themselves and steer clear of the logic board's socket. Let's keep that device safe and sound!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up to disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 44
Be extra careful not to poke or rip that little home button ribbon cable—it's more delicate than it looks!
- Grab your spudger and gently pry up the buffer block near the bottom-right corner of your iPad.
- Now, just lift that buffer block out and set it aside.
Tools Used
Step 45
The home button cable is stuck down with a bit of adhesive, but don’t worry, it’s not too tough to handle!
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 46
Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame—smooth moves here!
Keep in mind, without the right insulation, parts of the digitizer might short-circuit against other components, leading to wonky touch responses.
This insulation is a sneaky little thing—not visible to the naked eye and not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you see on many iPads.
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with strange or phantom touches, try sticking a super-thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers come with insulation already, so usually no extra tape is needed.
- When putting things back together, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Clean the glued areas thoroughly with 90% (or stronger) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This preps the surface perfectly for fresh adhesive to stick well.
- Before sealing everything up, test your iPad’s functions and apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display by following our display adhesive application guide.
Step 47
- Gently peel off the LCD buffer tape from the upper component bracket—think of it like carefully lifting a sticker without tearing it.
Step 48
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the five screws holding down the upper component bracket:
- Three screws, each 1.4 mm long
- Two screws, each 1.9 mm long
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently pry up the upper component bracket using the pointy end of your spudger until it’s loose enough to grab with your fingers.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Go ahead and give that upper component bracket a gentle tug to peel it away from the tape. You got this!
- Now, it's time to fully remove the upper component bracket. Easy peasy!
Step 51
- Carefully peel away any tape that's hiding the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector.
Step 52
- Grab your spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail, and give that small, hinged locking flap on the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector a gentle flip to pop it up. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 53
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle the left ambient light sensor cable free from the ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 54
The left ambient light sensor is just lightly stuck to the frame, so it should come off without too much fuss.
- Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift that sensor right out of the frame.
Tools Used
Step 55
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pluck away any leftover adhesive that’s still hanging out on the frame. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 56
- Gently lift any tape that’s hiding the headphone jack’s press connector.
Step 57
- Gently use the flat end of the spudger to nudge up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 58
Heads up: the headphone jack cable is just barely stuck to the frame, so a gentle touch will do the trick!
- Grab those tweezers or just your trusty fingers, and gently lift the headphone jack cable away from the frame like a pro!
Tools Used
Step 59
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's get to work! Remove the 3.3 mm-long screw that's holding the headphone jack snugly in the frame. You've got this!
Step 60
- Time to put it all back together! Just follow the steps you did before, but in reverse. You've got this!
- Don't forget to recycle! Drop off your e-waste with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- Not quite there yet? Don't worry, troubleshooting is part of the journey. Need extra help? You can always schedule a repair if you're stuck.
-
