iPad 9 LTE Home Button Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 54 Steps
Heads up! The home button’s Touch ID sensor is tightly linked to the logic board. Swapping out the home button means you’ll lose Touch ID access.
For your safety, make sure to drain the battery to below 25% before you start taking your iPad apart.
This guide will walk you through swapping out the home button assembly on your iPad 9 LTE. Heads up: this is just for the LTE model—if you have the Wi-Fi version, click here instead. Keep in mind, the home button’s Touch ID sensor is paired with the logic board, so swapping it out means losing Touch ID functionality. For safety’s sake, make sure your battery is below 25% charge before starting—this helps lower the risk of fire if the battery gets damaged during the repair. If your battery looks swollen, handle it with extra caution. When you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker, be super gentle; those battery contacts are fragile and easy to damage, which can cause permanent issues. If you decide not to isolate the battery, try to avoid metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for screws) to prevent short circuits and protect your iPad’s sensitive parts. Some photos might be from a slightly different model and look a bit different, but don’t worry—they won’t throw you off the actual steps.
Step 1
Before diving into the repair, let's make sure your iPad is powered down. It's always a good idea to avoid any surprises, so go ahead and turn it off before getting started.
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these parts that really don't like being poked:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps will show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, our nifty little gadget designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for a different method.
For all the details on mastering the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If the surface of your iPad is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just grab some tape and create a textured surface for a better hold.
- Slide the blue handle backward to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set something under your iPad so it sits nice and level between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the middle of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while firmly pressing down on the top suction cup to get a good grip.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin—or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch a bit.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups! They should stay lined up perfectly. If they start to slip out of sync, just loosen them a touch and realign the arms before moving on.
Step 5
Take it easy, champ! Turn it only halfway at a time, then kick back for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do their magic for you.
Want to master the art of using a hair dryer? Dive into this guide for the full scoop.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't opening up enough, just warm things up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise to get that gap just right.
- Take a minute to let the adhesive relax a bit, giving you that perfect gap to work with.
- If the screen's not heating up as much as you'd like, a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad should do the trick.
- Slip an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp creates enough space for it.
- Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
Got a screen that’s more shattered than a dropped phone? Slap on a layer of clear packing tape to give that suction cup something to grab onto. No suction cup? No problem — a strong piece of tape can do the trick too. And if you’re feeling adventurous, a tiny dab of superglue can help stick the suction cup right onto the cracked screen.
- Once your screen has warmed up and is pleasant to the touch, grab a suction handle and place it right at the left edge as close to the border as you can get.
- Gently pull the screen up with the suction handle to make a tiny opening between the digitizer and its frame.
- Slip an opening pick into that little gap you've created between the digitizer and the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to sweat if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just go ahead and pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but be cautious of leaving behind some sticky adhesive that's a bit of a chore to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets snagged in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation moving smoothly.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick toward the top-left corner of the iPad to break free that sticky adhesive.
- Keep that pick in place at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from redoing its clingy thing!
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give the top edge of the iPad a cozy two-minute hug.
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Step 11
Careful not to push the pick more than 7 mm in, or you might tick off the ambient light sensor!
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your iPad to break free that adhesive like a pro.
Step 12
Keep that pick clear of the front camera! We wouldn't want to put a scratch on that lens. Follow these steps to keep it safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but make a pit stop just before the front camera to keep things safe.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so that only its tip stays wedged between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick over the top of the front camera to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and glide it up to the top-right corner of your iPad to fully loosen that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick lodged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and stick together.
Step 15
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your iPad. Let's get things nice and toasty!
Tools Used
Step 16
Be careful and only insert the pick up to 4 mm deep to keep that ambient light sensor safe and sound!
- Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables are hanging out about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. When you slide, make sure to stop when you're about three inches away from the bottom. You've got this!
- Slip a new opening pick into the gap and glide it right to the center of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to swing that pick all the way around the corner, or you might just give the antenna a little surprise party it didn't ask for!
The third image gives you a peek at the bottom-left antenna tucked beneath the digitizer.
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the corner before you move on to the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—going the other way might just mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop in a new opening pick right where you made that sweet little gap at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.
- Keep that pick cozy to the left of the home button before you move on to the next step.
Step 21
- Slide your trusty opening pick into that little gap you've just made. You're doing great!
- Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure only the tip is sneaking between the digitizer and the frame. Keep it cool!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button only—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we want to keep that signal strong!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-right corner. Easy peasy!
- Pop the pick back in and gently slide it towards the home button. This will help you separate the bottom adhesive all the way.
- Leave the pick to the right of the home button for the next step. You're doing great!
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy during this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and use that opening pick to gently separate it all. If things get tricky, it's totally okay to pause and give it another heat-up.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges a little more heat and gently glide along them with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks positioned at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just a bit, loosening the last bits of adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of your iPad. You're making progress, keep it up!
Step 26
Heads up! Gently wiggle your opening pick around the two display cables so they stay safe and sound.
- As you hold the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully peel away the last bit of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat alongside the iPad.
- When putting things back together, take a moment to wipe off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and the digitizer (if you're reusing it) using some isopropyl alcohol. Swap out the old adhesive for fresh strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly—make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen to avoid any damage.
Step 28
- Grab some tweezers or your trusty fingers and gently peel away any tape that's keeping those LCD screws under wraps.
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Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to tackle those four 4.2 mm screws that are holding the LCD screen in place. Unscrew them with confidence!
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Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame, so handle with care.
- Gently slide a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully pry with the spudger to loosen the adhesive without rushing.
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Step 31
- Give that top-left corner of the LCD some extra love just like you did before!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don't go trying to yank the LCD off just yet; it's still hanging on by a flex cable.
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the LCD just enough to get a grip with your fingers.
- Carefully flip the LCD like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Take your time, it’s a small one but totally manageable!
Step 34
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Handle with care when you're isolating the battery using a battery blocker! Those battery contacts can be a bit delicate and might bend or break, leading to some pretty permanent damage. You've got this, just take your time!
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up—it's like the friendly face of your repair buddy!
Avoid forcing the battery blocker under the connector; it shouldn't feel like you're trying to squeeze a watermelon into a keyhole. If you're struggling, consider using a playing card to gently disconnect the battery instead—just like a magician's trick!
The battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board smoothly, without any hitches. Once it's in, it should settle at a cozy 15-degree angle, just chilling out and doing its job.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at about a 35-degree angle. It’s like finding the perfect spot for a puzzle piece.
- Leave the battery blocker in place while you continue working, no rush, just let it do its thing.
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Step 36
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep them safe!
Step 37
- Take off the display cable bracket with care.
Step 38
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this one, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and avoid any permanent damage.
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Step 39
- Carefully lift the LCD off and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe while you work.
Step 40
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s hiding the home button cable’s ZIF connector.
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 42
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug on that home button ribbon cable, sliding it straight out of the ZIF connector with confidence!
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Step 43
Be cool and only pry on the connectors themselves—avoid messing with the socket on the logic board to keep your iPad safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently lift and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You've got this!
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Step 44
Heads up! Be super gentle to avoid poking or ripping the home button ribbon cable—it’s delicate!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the buffer block from the bottom-right corner of the iPad. It’s easier than it sounds!
- Now, go ahead and take out the buffer block. You’re making great progress!
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Step 45
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the frame like a pro.
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Step 46
Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame.
Without the right insulation, parts of the digitizer might short-circuit against other components, which can mess with touch responsiveness.
This insulation is invisible to the naked eye and isn’t the same as the foam dust barrier strips you often see on iPads.
- Start by carefully detaching the front panel assembly.
- If your new display starts acting like it has a mind of its own with those pesky "ghost" or "phantom" touch inputs, don’t fret! A simple fix is to apply a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Luckily, our replacement digitizers already come with the right insulation, so no extra tape should be needed.
- As you gear up for reassembly, make sure to wipe away any leftover adhesive from the iPad and clean the glued surfaces with some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth. This little prep work will get your iPad ready for some fresh adhesive and ensure a solid bond.
- Before sealing everything up, give your iPad a quick functionality test and apply those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display, following our display adhesive application guide. You're almost there!
Step 47
The cable for the home button is held in place with a bit of light adhesive. Just a little sticky situation to navigate!
- Gently use your fingers to lift the home button cable away from the back of the front panel. Keep it chill and take your time!
Step 48
If the adhesive is being stubborn, don’t yank the pick. Instead, gently warm up the home button cable with an iOpener or a hair dryer to loosen the glue and make things easier.
- Slide an opening pick underneath the home button cable to gently pry it away from the front panel.
- Carefully glide it forward to slice through the sticky stuff that’s keeping the home button cable attached to the front panel.
- Keep sliding that pick until you reach the home button bracket—you're almost there!
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Step 49
- Gently slide an opening pick under the top of the home button cable to free the metal contact from the home button bracket. You're doing great!
Step 50
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the home button bracket for about thirty seconds.
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Step 51
If you bend or tweak the home button bracket, your home button might lose that satisfying 'click' when you put it back together. So, watch out for those warps and keep it straight!
If the home button bracket starts to bend before it pops off, try dropping a bit of high-concentration (90% or above) isopropyl alcohol on the bracket mounts to loosen things up.
- Grab your trusty opening tool and gently wiggle it to pop off the home button bracket from the front panel. You've got this!
Step 52
- First up, let's get that home button bracket off! You've got this! Once it's time to put it back, remember to use some high bond glue like E6000 to keep it snugly attached to the front panel assembly. You're doing great—keep it up!
Step 53
Take it easy and apply pressure gradually. The adhesive clings to a fragile gasket that can easily get ripped.
- Give that home button a gentle nudge with your finger, pushing it from the front panel to help it break free from the adhesive that's keeping it snug. You're doing great!
Step 54
- Time to put everything back together! Just reverse these steps and you’ll be golden.
- Got some e-waste piling up? Don’t let it gather dust—take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler!
- Not everything goes perfectly, right? If your repair took an unexpected turn, give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or pop into our iPad 9 Answers community for a helping hand. And if things still seem tricky, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!
