iPad 9 LTE Left Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 62 Steps
Before you dive in, make sure your iPad's battery is below 25%. It’s a good idea to give it a low charge to avoid any surprises while you’re working on it!
Ready to replace the left speaker on your iPad 9 LTE? Let's get to it! This guide is specifically for the LTE version, so if you have the Wi-Fi model, you’re in the wrong place—click here instead. Before we dive in, remember: safety first! Make sure your battery is under 25% before disassembling to reduce any risk of fire in case the battery gets damaged. If your battery looks swollen, take extra care. When isolating the battery with a blocker, don’t rush—battery contacts are delicate, and damage could be permanent. If you’re skipping the battery isolation step (not recommended, but hey, we get it), stick to using non-metal tools unless absolutely necessary—let’s avoid short circuits and damaging your precious circuits. Some of these steps are borrowed from an earlier model, so there might be small differences, but overall, the process is pretty much the same. Let’s get this done!
Step 1
Before you dive into the repair adventure, make sure to power down your iPad. Safety first, right? Let's get this show on the road!
- Heat up your iOpener and give it a two-minute spa treatment on the left edge of your iPad. Let the heat work its magic!
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Step 2
- As you kick back and let the adhesive do its thing, keep an eye on these delicate areas that need a gentle touch:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps introduce the Anti-Clamp, our nifty little gadget designed to make opening up your device a breeze. If you’re not rocking the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for another way to get the job done.
Want the lowdown on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this handy guide.
If your iPad's surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just grab some tape to create a more secure surface.
- Give that blue handle a little tug backwards to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set your iPad on a flat object so it sits just right between those suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one at the top and one at the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create some suction magic.
Step 4
- Pull the blue handle towards you to securely lock the arms in place.
- Turn the handle clockwise, giving it a full 360-degree spin or until the cups begin to stretch.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they stay lined up. If they start to shift out of place, just loosen them a bit and carefully realign the arms.
Step 5
Don't go overboard – only twist a little, about half a turn at a time, and take a minute to let things settle between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and a bit of patience do their magic.
Want the full lowdown on using a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide.
If your Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough, heat things up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise to get that gap just right.
- Take a breather for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap for you.
- If the screen isn't warming up to your liking, feel free to warm up the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has done its job and there's a sizable gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- You can go ahead and skip the next step.
Step 6
Got a seriously cracked screen? Slap some clear packing tape over it to give your suction cup something to grip onto. No suction cup? No worries—strong tape can do the trick too. If things get really tricky, carefully superglue the suction cup right onto the shattered glass to get the job done.
- First, warm up that screen until it's cozy to the touch. Once it is, grab a suction handle and stick it onto the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get!
- Next, give that screen a gentle lift using the suction handle. This will create a little opening between the digitizer and the frame—just enough for the next step.
- Now, slide an opening pick into that gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame. You're doing great!
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Step 7
No stress if you spot the opening pick poking through the digitizer — just gently slide it out. The LCD should stay safe, but leaving adhesive behind can turn into a sticky mess to clean later.
- Pop in a second opening pick right where you just made some space.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
- Keep that pick in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from re-sticking.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep on separating that adhesive like a pro.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug to the top edge of your iPad.
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Step 11
Be careful to only slide the pick in up to 7 mm to keep the ambient light sensor safe and sound.
- Give that pick a little twist around the top-left corner of your iPad to break free from the adhesive's grip!
Step 12
Careful not to slide the pick over the front camera lens—that little guy is delicate! The next steps will help you steer clear of any lens oopsies.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but make sure to pause just shy of the front camera—it's like a little game of keep-away!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and slide it over to the top-right corner of your iPad to fully break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 15
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes.
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Step 16
Careful now! Only slide the pick in up to 4 mm to keep that ambient light sensor safe and sound.
- Twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break free that pesky adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding along, pause once you hit around three inches from the bottom—that’s your sweet spot!
- Slide a fresh opening pick right into the middle of the iPad's right edge and get ready to work your magic.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the bottom edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 19
Be careful not to spin that pick all the way around the corner; it could take a toll on your antenna!
Check out the third image where you'll find the bottom-left antenna hanging out under the digitizer.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break that adhesive seal. You've got this!
- Keep the pick snug in the corner while you get ready for the next move.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently only towards the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and nobody wants that!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Pop a new opening pick into the little gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the pick along past the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Leave the pick resting just to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
- Slip an opening pick into the little gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the very tip sneaks between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Remember, only slide the pick towards the home button—do not venture away from it! We wouldn’t want you to accidentally mess with the antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick across this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it from the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little shimmy towards the home button to fully break free from that bottom adhesive. You've got this!
- Once you've done that, just let the pick hang out to the right of the home button while you continue on your repair adventure.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
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Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s soft, and carefully slide your opening pick all around to separate the glue. Don’t hesitate to pause and warm it up again if needed!
If you're feeling a bit of resistance, give those edges a little extra heat and gently glide along them with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer, loosening the last bits of adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
Watch out for those display cables! Use your opening pick with care to keep them safe and sound.
- As you hold the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last of the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After carefully separating all the adhesive, open the digitizer gently like a book and let it rest flat next to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you plan to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap out the old adhesive with fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to peel back any tape hiding those LCD screws.
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Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to pop off those four 4.2 mm screws holding your LCD screen in place!
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Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame.
- Slide a spudger gently between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully wiggle the spudger to loosen the adhesive without rushing.
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Step 31
- Now, give the top-left corner of that LCD some love by repeating the last move you made.
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking that LCD off just yet; it's still connected by a flex cable, and we wouldn't want to leave it hanging!
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its spot so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Carefully flip the LCD like turning a page in a book—lift near the camera and turn it over the end with the home button.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily reach the display cables.
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Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the tiny 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector onto the logic board.
Step 34
These photos show the battery connector hiding just under the logic board. Use them as your guide while you carefully disconnect the battery. Think of it as a treasure map, but for electronics.
Notice the cantilever springs on the logic board that gently press against the battery's contact pads. Since both the board and the battery are glued in place, you’ll want something thin and flexible to slide in between and free the battery. A gentle touch goes a long way here.
Step 35
Handle with care when isolating the battery with a blocker. Those battery contacts can be delicate and might get bent or broken, leading to some serious damage that you can't fix. Take it slow!
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up—it's the right way to go!
When sliding the battery blocker under the connector, take it easy! No need to force it in. If it's being stubborn, a playing card can do the trick to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should smoothly glide under the logic board without any hiccups. Once it's in, it should sit at a chill 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide that battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, aiming for a cool 35-degree angle. You're doing great!
- Keep that battery blocker snug in place as you tackle the next steps. You've got this!
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Step 36
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew those three little 1.4 mm-long screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 37
- Say goodbye to the display cable bracket! It's time to carefully detach it from your device. Let's get that part off and keep moving forward!
Step 38
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and avoid any damage.
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Step 39
- Carefully lift off the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.
Step 40
- Grab your tweezers and carefully lift the tape that’s holding down the home button cable’s ZIF connector.
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.
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Step 43
For the love of your iPad, remember to gently pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the logic board's socket. Keep it cool and take your time!
- Gently slide the flat side of your spudger in there and nudge those two digitizer cable press connectors apart. You've got this!
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Step 44
Watch out for the home button ribbon cable—it's delicate, so treat it like a VIP!
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the buffer block at the bottom-right corner of the iPad to lift it up.
- Carefully take out the buffer block.
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Step 45
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the frame.
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Step 46
Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame.
Without the right insulation, parts of the digitizer might short-circuit against other components, messing with the touch functionality.
This insulation is super sneaky—it's invisible to the naked eye and not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you often find on iPads.
- Start by gently detaching the front panel assembly. You've got this!
- If your new display is acting a bit quirky with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, no worries! Just apply a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. Most replacement digitizers come with the right insulation, so you might not even need to add any tape.
- As you put everything back together, make sure to clear away any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth to clean those glued areas. This will help the new adhesive stick like a champ!
- Before sealing everything up, give your iPad a quick functionality test and apply those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy display adhesive application guide. You're almost there!
Step 47
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up that little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 48
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that SIM card reader cable out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 49
You'll spot two antenna cables hanging out, but don't worry! Just focus on disconnecting the one that's hanging out the farthest from the edge. You've got this!
- Gently slide the pointed tip of your spudger under the left antenna cable and lift it straight up to detach it. Easy peasy!
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Step 50
Hold onto the antenna cable itself, not the connector. Tugging on the connector can snap it, and we don’t want that!
Heads up: the tape holding down the left antenna cable is hiding right under the tape for the right antenna cable. If it’s being stubborn, gently disconnect and lift the right antenna cable first to get better access.
- Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the rear case.
Step 51
- Keep sliding that left antenna cable away from the rear case, making your way along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
Step 53
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the three screws holding down the left antenna.
- One screw is 2.3 mm long—keep an eye out for this bigger little guy.
- The other two screws are 1.4 mm long, a bit shorter but just as important.
Step 54
The antenna cable is held in place by a tiny metal bracket that's like a superhero sidekick to the speaker. This bracket is securely crimped onto the antenna and stuck to the speaker enclosure with some strong adhesive. To set the antenna free, you'll need to carefully break that adhesive bond. Time to get crafty!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—like you're sneaking a peek at a surprise party!
- Now, shimmy that pick towards the charging port to break the adhesive's grip. You've got this!
- Give the bracket a little nudge away from the speaker to shake off the tape underneath. It's all about teamwork!
Step 55
- Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna and speaker assembly to get things started.
- Carefully glide the pick under the antenna to slice through the foam adhesive like a pro.
- Lift out the left antenna and set it aside.
Step 56
You can choose to completely peel off the tape or just go as far as exposing the left speaker ZIF connector. Your call!
- Gently lift the tape covering the speaker connectors using a pair of tweezers or your trusty fingernail. It’s like peeling off a sticker, but with a bit more precision.
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Step 57
- Gently use a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift the little hinged locking flap on the left speaker cable ZIF connector. It’s a small step, but an important one!
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Step 58
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the left speaker cable out of the ZIF connector. Take your time and go slow to avoid any accidental pulls!
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Step 59
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and tackle that 2.3 mm-long screw holding the left speaker in place! You've got this!
Step 60
- Peel off the tape that's keeping the speaker snug against the rear case.
Step 61
- Slide the flat tip of your spudger into the groove on the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.
- Gently nudge the speaker away from the rear case.
- Carefully pop the speaker out from under the shelf on the rear case.
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Step 62
- Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse. Easy peasy!
- Got some old tech lying around? Don’t toss it! Take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give it a new lease on life.
- Things didn’t quite go according to plan? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our iPad 8 Answers community for a helping hand.
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