iPad 9 LTE Rear Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 53 Steps
Before you dive in and take things apart, make sure to drain that battery to 25% or lower. Safety first, always!
Ready to swap out the rear camera on your iPad 9 LTE? Awesome! Just a quick heads up – this guide is for the LTE version only. If you have the Wi-Fi model, check out the other guide. Before you dive in, make sure the battery is below 25%. This simple step keeps things safe in case the battery gets a little too adventurous during the repair. If the battery looks swollen, take extra care and follow safety precautions. When isolating the battery, handle it gently – the contacts are super delicate, and we don’t want any accidental damage. If you’re skipping the battery isolation step (no judgment here), just remember to avoid using metal tools unless absolutely necessary – this helps keep the battery and circuit components safe from any potential harm. A quick note – some images in this guide might be from a different model, so don’t sweat the small visual differences – the steps are still spot on. Good luck, and if you hit a roadblock, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
Make sure to power off your iPad completely before diving into the repair.
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of the iPad for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic!
Tools Used
Step 2
- As you bide your time for the adhesive to take a breather, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that prefer a gentle touch:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps will show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little gadget we've whipped up to make opening your device a breeze. If you don't have the Anti-Clamp on hand, no worries! Just hop down three steps for a different approach.
Want the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this handy guide.
If your iPad's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just grab some tape to create a stickier surface.
- Pull the blue handle back to loosen the Anti-Clamp's arms—think of it like opening a tiny robot hug.
- Slide something under your iPad so it sits nice and level between the suction cups, keeping it comfy.
- Set the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one chilling at the top, one hanging out at the bottom.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down on the top cup to get a good, solid grip.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree twist clockwise, or keep turning until you see the suction cups start to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups — they should stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and line the arms back up.
Step 5
Take it easy and only twist a half turn at a time. Give it a minute to breathe between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do the heavy lifting for you!
For a detailed walkthrough on mastering your hair dryer skills, take a peek at this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, just give it a little more heat and twist the handle clockwise for half a turn.
- Take a breather for about a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a tiny opening for you.
- If your screen is feeling a bit chilly, grab a hair dryer and warm up the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has opened up enough, slide an opening pick beneath the digitizer.
- Go ahead and skip the next step!
Step 6
If your screen is seriously cracked, slap on some clear packing tape to give the suction cup something to grip onto. You can also try using some super strong tape instead of the suction cup if that works better. And hey, if you’re really stuck, a little superglue between the suction cup and the broken glass might just do the trick.
- When the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle onto the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to form a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to start separating them.
Tools Used
Step 7
No sweat if you spot the opening pick poking through the digitizer—just slide it out gently. The LCD screen should be safe, but watch out for stubborn adhesive that’s tougher to clean up later.
- Slide your second opening pick into the gap you've just made.
- Gently guide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep that pick in the corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 8
- If the opening pick decides to play hide and seek in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep the separation going. You've got this!
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick nestled in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 11
Be careful not to insert the pick more than 7 mm to keep that ambient light sensor safe and sound!
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 12
Be careful around the front camera! Sliding the pick too close can risk damaging the lens. Follow these steps to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, but pause just before you hit the front camera—let’s keep that safe!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick carefully over the front camera to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
- Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Grab your pick again and gently slide it up towards the top-right corner of your iPad, making sure the top adhesive is completely separated.
- Leave the pick right where it is in the top-right corner to stop that adhesive from sealing back up. You got this!
Step 15
- Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and give the right edge of your iPad a nice warm hug for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
Be gentle with that pick! Only slide it in up to 4 mm to keep the ambient light sensor safe and sound.
- Gently maneuver the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom edge of your iPad. Pause your sliding adventure once you hit roughly three inches from the bottom!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it to the center of the iPad's right edge. You're doing great!
Step 18
- Heat up an iOpener and gently press it to the bottom edge of your iPad for about two minutes. Give it some time to warm up that area, and it'll make things a lot easier when you get to the next step!
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner to keep that antenna safe and sound.
The third image shows the bottom-left antenna tucked neatly under the digitizer. Keep an eye on that spot as you move through the process!
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive like a pro.
- Keep that pick right there in the corner before you move on to the next step.
Step 20
Be sure to slide the pick gently towards the home button, not away from it, to avoid any antenna mishaps. Keep it cool and steady!
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, just pull it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. Keep it steady and take your time!
- Slide a fresh opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.
- Keep that pick to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
- Slide an opening pick into the little gap you’ve just made—nice work!
- Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip sneak in between the digitizer and the frame for a smooth operation.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently towards the home button—going the other way might mess up the antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to glide that pick over this section again, just pull it out and pop it back in from the bottom-right corner.
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little nudge towards the home button to fully break free the bottom adhesive. You're almost there!
- Now, just let that pick chill to the right of the home button while you gear up for the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right side of your iPad for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic, so the adhesive gets nice and soft.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take your time with this step, no rush! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, and soft enough to separate easily. Use your opening pick to gently pry it apart. If it feels stubborn, don’t hesitate to reheat and try again. It’s all about patience, so keep it cool and steady.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, go ahead and reheat those edges a bit, then gently work your way along with that trusty opening pick.
- Give those two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad a little twisty action to gently lift the digitizer. This will help you separate the last bits of adhesive like a pro!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
Watch out for those two display cables while you're using your opening pick—let's keep them safe and sound!
- While gently holding the digitizer in place, use an opening pick to carefully slide between the two display cables and break free the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and set it down parallel to the iPad.
- When putting things back together, give the frame—and the digitizer if you plan to reuse it—a good wipe with isopropyl alcohol to clear off any leftover adhesive. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen so nothing gets squished or damaged.
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to carefully peel away any tape hiding those LCD screws.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and let’s get to work! Carefully remove the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 30
The LCD is just gently stuck to the frame, so it should come off without much fuss.
- Slide a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Gently pry with the spudger to loosen up that adhesive. Take it slow!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Now, go ahead and repeat the same process for the top-left corner of the LCD. It's a small step, but it gets you one step closer to a fully repaired screen!
Step 32
Hey there! Just a heads up: don't go trying to yank out that LCD just yet—it's still hanging on by a flex cable!
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the LCD to pop it out of its snug little home—just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Now, flip the LCD like you're turning a page in a book, starting near the camera and gently bringing it over to the home button side of the frame.
- Carefully set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface so you have easy access to the display cables without causing any chaos.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle this! Unscrew the little 2.3 mm-long screw that's holding the battery connector snugly against the logic board. You've got this!
Step 34
Check out these snaps to see what the battery connector looks like tucked under the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector has these little cantilever springs on the logic board that press right onto the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide a thin, flexible tool between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Handle the battery blocker with care! Those battery contacts are delicate little guys—bend or break them, and it’s game over. Stay sharp!
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing upwards—no upside-down surprises here!
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector with too much muscle. If it’s being stubborn, try sliding a playing card under the logic board to gently disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board smoothly, without any obstacles. Once in place, it should sit comfortably at about a 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees. You've got this!
- Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you work your magic!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down that display cable bracket. Keep them safe!
Step 37
- Take off the display cable bracket. It's just a simple step, but necessary to get to the heart of the matter. Once that's done, you're one step closer to fixing your device!
Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slip the flat end underneath the LCD cable press connector to detach it. Easy peasy!
- When you're ready to reconnect those press connectors, take your time! Line up one side and give it a gentle press until you hear that satisfying click. Then do the same for the other side. Just a friendly reminder—avoid pressing down on the middle! If things get wonky and the connector is out of alignment, you might bend the pins, and that’s a no-go. Keep it cool and steady!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Carefully lift the LCD off and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it happy and safe.
Step 40
- Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully peel away the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector snug and secure.
Tools Used
Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift up that small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. It's a simple move, so take your time and get it just right!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. A steady hand will make this easy—just make sure it's a smooth and controlled move!
Tools Used
Step 43
Be careful when prying! Stick to the connectors themselves and avoid the socket on the logic board to prevent any damage to your iPad.
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to pry them up and disconnect them.
Tools Used
Step 44
Be super careful not to poke or rip that home button ribbon cable!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the buffer block in the bottom-right corner of the iPad. Give it a little nudge to pop it up!
- Once it's loose, simply lift that buffer block out and set it aside. You're making great progress!
Tools Used
Step 45
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of light adhesive, so it’s snug but not stuck!
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 46
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that might still be holding the front panel assembly to the frame. Say goodbye to that sticky situation!
Keep in mind, without the right insulation, the digitizer’s sensitive areas might accidentally connect with other components, leading to pesky touch input issues. We don’t want that!
The insulation is a sneaky little thing—not visible to the naked eye and quite different from those foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads. Keep an eye out for it!
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with random or phantom touches, don’t panic! You can fix this by placing a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the marked spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already come with this insulation, so usually no extra tape is needed.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those glue spots with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) using a lint-free cloth. This preps your iPad for fresh adhesive and helps everything stick like it should.
- Give your iPad a test run to check all functions. Next, apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display by following our display adhesive application guide, then seal it up tight.
Step 47
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the upper component bracket, taking care not to rush it.
Step 48
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully take out the five screws holding down the upper component bracket:
- Three screws measuring 1.4 mm in length
- Two screws measuring 1.9 mm in length
Tools Used
Step 49
- Grab the spudger's pointy end and gently pry up the upper component bracket until you can snag it with your fingers.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently lift the upper component bracket away from the tape using your fingers.
- Take out the upper component bracket.
Step 51
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it to lift up and disconnect that rear camera press connector. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Warm up your iOpener and give that rear camera a cozy thirty-second hug.
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Step 53
- Time to put your device back together! Just reverse those steps like a pro.
- Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- If things didn't go as smoothly as you hoped, don’t sweat it! A little basic troubleshooting might do the trick, or feel free to reach out to our iPad 9 Answers community for some friendly advice.
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