iPad 9 LTE Right Bluetooth and Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 54 Steps
Heads up! Make sure your iPad’s battery is below 25% before opening it up to keep things safe and sound.
Ready to replace the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna in your iPad 9 LTE? This guide is specifically for the LTE model. If you're working on the Wi-Fi version, check out the Wi-Fi version guide here. Before you start, make sure your battery is under 25% to reduce the risk of fire in case of accidental damage. And if your battery is swollen, take extra care! When isolating the battery, be cautious with the battery blocker – the contacts can be fragile and prone to damage. If you skip the battery isolation step, avoid using metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for screws) to prevent shorting the battery or damaging sensitive parts. A few steps in this guide are based on a previous model, but the process is quite similar, so don’t stress! If you hit any snags along the way, feel free to schedule a repair and we’ll help you out.
Step 1
First things first, power off your iPad before diving into the repair! Safety first, and it'll make the process a whole lot smoother.
- Grab your iOpener and give it a little heat-up session. Once it's nice and warm, press it gently on the left edge of your iPad for about two minutes. Let the warmth work its magic!
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Step 2
- As the adhesive starts to soften, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that don’t like being pried:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next few steps introduce the Anti-Clamp—our handy tool that makes opening up your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, don’t worry, just jump ahead to the next method for an alternate approach.
Want a complete rundown on how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
If your device is a little too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, a bit of tape will do the trick to give it some extra traction.
- Give the blue handle a little pull to release the Anti-Clamp's arms—easy does it!
- Place something soft under your iPad to keep it nice and level between the suction cups.
- Position the suction cups on the left edge—one near the top and one near the bottom, just like a pro.
- Now, hold the Anti-Clamp steady with one hand and press down firmly on the top suction cup to create a strong grip.
Step 4
- Gently pull the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Twist the handle 360 degrees to the right, or keep going until the suction cups start stretching. You’ve got this!
- Double-check that the suction cups are lined up just right. If they’re slipping a bit, no worries – loosen them up a tad and get those arms back in perfect alignment.
Step 5
Take it easy and don't twist more than half a turn at once. Give it a minute between turns—let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do their magic!
Need a hand with using a hair dryer? No worries, we've got you covered with this easy-to-follow guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't creating enough space, don't stress. Just give the area a bit more heat and turn the handle clockwise by half a turn.
- Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap to work with.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to give it a gentle heat boost.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to start the separation.
- Go ahead and skip the next step.
Step 6
Got a shattered screen that's more spiderweb than glass? Slap on some clear packing tape to give that suction cup something to grab onto. No tape? No problem! You can use a super-strong tape instead of the suction cup. And if things get really tricky, a dab of superglue can help the suction cup stick right where you need it.
- First, let's warm things up a bit! Once the screen is comfortably warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Now, give that screen a little lift with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- It's time to get your opening pick in there! Slide it into the gap between the digitizer and the frame, and you're on your way!
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Step 7
No need to stress if you spot that opening pick through the digitizer — just gently pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but be careful as you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that's a bit tricky to clean up.
- Pop in a second opening pick where you've made some room.
- Gently glide that pick towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
- Keep that pick snug in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 8
- If the opening pick finds itself stuck in the adhesive, give it a little 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going strong!
Step 9
- Gently slide that first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive that's been holding it tight.
- Keep the pick snugly in that top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t decide to seal itself back up!
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, letting it sit there for two minutes to loosen things up.
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Step 11
Stick to inserting the pick no more than 7 mm to keep the ambient light sensor happy and safe!
- Gently wiggle the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to break free that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens—sliding over it might cause some unwanted lens drama. The next steps will show you how to dodge that!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but make sure to stop right before you bump into the front camera!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is cozy between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little slide toward the top-right corner of your iPad to fully break that top adhesive free. You're almost there!
- Keep the pick snug in the top-right corner to stop that pesky adhesive from sealing itself back up again. You got this!
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
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Step 16
Be careful to insert the pick only up to 4 mm to keep the ambient light sensor safe and sound!
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 17
The display cables are hanging out around the halfway mark from the bottom of the iPad. Once you hit about three inches from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of the iPad, letting the heat work its magic for two minutes.
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Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner to keep the antenna safe and sound.
Check out the third image where you'll spot the bottom-left antenna hiding snugly beneath the digitizer. It's like a little secret waiting for you to uncover!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break that adhesive seal like a boss.
- Keep the pick snugly in the corner before you move on to the next step.
Step 20
Make sure to slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it! Going the wrong way could lead to antenna trouble, and we definitely don't want that. You've got this!
If you find yourself needing to glide that pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You're doing great!
- Pop a fresh opening pick into that little gap you just made at the bottom of the iPad.
- Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but stop just before you reach the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick to the left of the home button before you move on. You've got this!
Step 21
- Pop an opening pick into that little gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, making sure that only the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Be sure to slide the pick towards the home button and steer clear of pushing it away; doing so might mess with the antenna. Keep it safe and sound!
If you find yourself needing to glide the pick over this spot again, just take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Pop that pick back in and slide it over toward the home button to fully break through the bottom adhesive.
- Then, just leave the pick chillin' to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and then press it against the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes. Let's get that adhesive nice and toasty!
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Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and gently separate it with your trusty opening pick. If things get a little tricky, don’t hesitate to pause and heat it up again. You've got this!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, it's time to reheat those edges and gently glide your opening pick along them.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just a bit, loosening the last stubborn spots of adhesive along the way.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left side of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad a bit more.
Step 26
Heads up! Gently wiggle your opening pick around to avoid any oopsies with the two display cables.
- Keep the digitizer steady while you carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to gently separate the last bits of adhesive.
Step 27
- After you’ve carefully separated all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, clean off any leftover adhesive on the frame—and on the digitizer if you plan to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things nice and secure.
- Keep an eye on those display cables while reassembling. Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen so nothing gets squished or damaged.
Step 28
- Grab those tweezers or just use your fingers to peel away any tape that's hiding the LCD screws. Let's get to the good stuff!
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Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place.
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Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame.
- Slide a spudger gently between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully wiggle the spudger to loosen the adhesive without rushing.
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Step 31
- Now, give that same treatment to the top-left corner of the LCD — you got this!
Step 32
Hold off on pulling the LCD all the way out just yet — it’s still hanging on by that sneaky little flex cable.
- Gently wiggle the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to loosen it so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Flip the LCD over like turning a page in a book—lift it near the camera and fold it over toward the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to get clear access to the display cables without any risk of scratches.
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Step 33
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board.
Step 34
Check out these snaps to see what the battery connector looks like tucked under the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector features cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Watch out when you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker! Those battery contacts are a bit delicate and can easily get bent or break, which could lead to some serious issues. Take it easy and be careful!
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up like a proud flag!
Be gentle with the battery blocker; no need to shove it under the connector with all your might. If it's being stubborn, a playing card can swoop in to help disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or your trusty playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board, without any hiccups. Once it's in, it should sit at a cool 15-degree angle, just chillin'!
- Carefully slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working to stay safe and sound.
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Step 36
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep them safe!
Step 37
- Take off the display cable bracket like a pro! It's time to get that gadget opened up and ready for action.
Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the LCD cable press connector—think of it as giving your device a little lift!
- When it’s time to reconnect those press connectors, take it slow and steady. Start by lining up one side and press down until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no need to press down in the center! If things aren’t lined up just right, you could bend those tiny pins and we definitely don’t want that. Keep it smooth and easy!
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Step 39
- Carefully lift the LCD off and place it face down on a clean, soft surface that won't leave any lint behind.
Step 40
- Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully lift the tape covering the home button cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or just your trusty fingernail to gently flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and steady wins the game!
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Step 43
To keep your iPad safe and sound, make sure to delicately pry on the connectors themselves and steer clear of the logic board's socket. You've got this!
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the connectors and give them a little nudge to disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You've got this!
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Step 44
Heads up! Be super gentle and avoid poking or ripping the home button ribbon cable—it’s delicate business!
- Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the buffer block located near the bottom-right corner of the iPad to lift it up.
- Carefully take out the buffer block and set it aside.
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Step 45
The home button cable is held in place with just a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab those tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You've got this!
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Step 46
Grab an opening pick and gently slide it around to free any stubborn adhesive still clinging the front panel assembly to the frame. It's like giving your device a little spa day!
Remember, without proper insulation, those digitizer corners can get a bit too cozy with other components, leading to touch input hiccups. Let's keep things friendly!
This insulation is a sneaky little guy—totally invisible to the naked eye and quite different from the foam dust barriers you might find on many iPads.
- Start by carefully taking off that front panel assembly. You've got this!
- If your new display is playing tricks on you with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, no worries! Just slap on a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, in those highlighted spots on the back of the panel. And if you’re using our replacement digitizers, you’re in luck—they come with the right insulation, so no extra tape is needed!
- As you put things back together, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad first. Give those glued areas a good clean with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This little prep work will help the fresh adhesive stick like a charm!
- Finally, don’t forget to test out your iPad's functions and apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display, following our handy display adhesive application guide, before sealing everything up tight.
Step 47
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up the little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector.
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Step 48
- Grab some tweezers and gently wiggle the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector—take it slow and steady!
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Step 49
There are two antenna cables here, but you only want to unplug the one hanging out closest to the edge.
- Gently slide the sharp end of your spudger beneath the right antenna cable and give it a little lift to disconnect it. Easy peasy!
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Step 50
Hold onto the antenna cable itself—avoid yanking it by the connector. Tugging the coaxial cables at their connectors is a quick way to break them, and we want to keep everything intact!
- Gently lift up the right antenna cable.
Step 51
- Keep on gently peeling the right antenna cable away from the back case. You've got this!
Step 52
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three screws holding the right antenna in place. You'll be all set in no time!
- One 2.3 mm screw – it's small, but mighty!
- Two 1.4 mm screws – these little guys are essential to keeping things together.
Step 53
The antenna cable is held in place by a tiny metal bracket attached to the speaker. This bracket is snugly crimped to the antenna and glued onto the speaker enclosure. To free the antenna, you’ll need to carefully cut through the adhesive.
- Gently slide an opening pick in between the speaker enclosure and the bracket.
- Move that pick down towards the charging port to break through the sticky stuff holding it all together.
- Now, give that bracket a little nudge away from the speaker until it pops free from the tape below.
Step 54
- Now it's time to put everything back together—just follow the steps in reverse order!
- Got some old gadgets that need recycling? Make sure to drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Things didn't go quite as planned? No worries! You can try some basic troubleshooting, or feel free to ask the iPad 8 community for some tips and tricks.
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