iPad 9 LTE SIM Card Reader Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 52 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the SIM card reader in your iPad 9 LTE. When disconnecting the battery, take extra care—those battery contacts are super fragile and a slip could cause permanent damage. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to avoid metal tools except when absolutely necessary, like when removing screws, to prevent short circuits and protect the delicate components. Some photos here might be from a similar model and look a bit different, but don’t worry, they won’t affect the steps you need to follow.
Step 1
- Grab a SIM eject tool, a tiny bit, or even a straightened paper clip and pop it into the hole on the SIM card tray.
- Gently push the tool into the hole to coax the SIM card tray out like a pro.
- Slide the SIM card tray out and get ready for the next step.
Step 2
Make sure to power down your iPad before diving into the repair adventure!
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 3
- While you're letting that adhesive do its thing, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that love to be handled with care:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 4
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, our nifty tool designed to simplify the opening process. If you decide to skip the Anti-Clamp, no worries—just hop down three steps for an alternative approach.
For the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp, be sure to check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grab onto, try using some tape to create a more textured grip.
- Gently pull the blue handle back to free the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set your iPad on a flat object, so it sits evenly between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one up top and one down below.
- Keep a steady grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down firmly on the top cup to create that perfect suction.
Step 5
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull forward to lock the arms in place.
- Now, twist the handle clockwise 360 degrees (or until you feel those cups start to stretch).
- Make sure the suction cups are still in sync with each other. If they start to drift, loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 6
Take it easy and don't twist more than half a turn at once. Chill for a minute between those turns and let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting for you.
Want to know how to use a hair dryer like a pro? We’ve got you covered with the full guide right here.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, don’t sweat it—just add a little more heat and give the handle a half turn clockwise.
- Pause for about a minute to let the adhesive soften and create a small gap.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try gently heating the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, carefully slide an opening pick underneath the digitizer.
- Go ahead and skip the next step.
Step 7
- First things first, warm up that screen until it's just cozy to the touch! Next, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Now, gently lift that screen with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You're doing great!
- Time to slide an opening pick into that little gap you've created between the digitizer and the frame. Keep it steady!
Got a cracked display? No worries! Try covering it with a layer of clear packing tape – this should help the suction cup stick. If you're feeling a bit more creative, super strong tape can also do the trick in place of the suction cup. If things get tricky and nothing works, a little superglue can help you stick that suction cup to the screen. If you're still having trouble, don't hesitate to schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.
Tools Used
Step 8
It's all good if the opening pick shows through the digitizer—just pull it out carefully. The LCD screen should be fine, but be mindful of leaving any stubborn adhesive behind. No worries, just take your time!
- Pop in a second opening pick where you've just created some space.
- Gently slide that pick over to the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to stop that pesky adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 9
- If your opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a champ.
Step 10
- Gently slide the first opening pick up toward the top-left corner of the iPad to break that sticky adhesive seal.
- Once you've made some progress, keep the pick in the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 11
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 12
Be sure to gently insert the pick no more than 7 mm to keep that ambient light sensor safe and sound!
- Spin that pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive like a pro!
Step 13
Keep your pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental scratches. We'll guide you through the steps to keep that lens safe and sound.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but be sure to stop just short of the front camera. You're doing great!
Step 14
- Gently slide the pick in until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully glide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move forward.
Step 15
- Pop that pick back in and glide it up towards the top-right corner of the iPad to fully break free from the top adhesive's grip.
- Keep that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from coming back together.
Step 16
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 17
Be sure to only slide that pick in up to 4 mm—going deeper might give the ambient light sensor a real scare!
- Give that pick a little spin around the top-right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 18
The display cables hang out around the halfway mark from the bottom of your iPad. Take a little break from sliding when you're about three inches away from the bottom. You've got this!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it to the center of the iPad's right edge. You're doing great!
Step 19
- Warm up your iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic—patience is key!
Tools Used
Step 20
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner — the antenna will not appreciate that dance move!
Check out the third image to spot the bottom-left antenna hanging out right under the digitizer.
- Gently slide that bottom-left pick into the corner to break free from the adhesive's grasp.
- Keep the pick snug in the corner while you gear up for the next step.
Step 21
Slide the pick gently only toward the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
- Slip a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Keep the pick resting to the left side of the home button before moving on.
Step 22
- Slide your trusty opening pick into that gap you've just made. You're doing great!
- Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame. You're almost there!
Step 23
Make sure to slide the pick gently towards the home button and not away from it, or you might accidentally give that antenna a little too much excitement!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick again in this area, just take it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. Smooth sailing ahead!
- Slide that trusty pick back in and give it a gentle nudge towards the home button to fully detach the stubborn bottom adhesive.
- Once you're done, let the pick chill to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 24
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes to loosen things up gently.
Tools Used
Step 25
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to separate, and carefully run your opening pick around all the edges. Don’t hesitate to pause and reheat if needed!
If you hit some stubborn spots, give the edges another warm-up and gently work your opening pick around them.
- Gently twist the two opening picks into the left corners of the iPad. This will help lift the digitizer just a smidge, while also separating the last bits of adhesive like a pro.
Step 26
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive sticking to the right edge of your iPad. You've got this!
Step 27
Watch out for those two display cables while you’re working your magic with the opening pick – we definitely don’t want to give them any unintentional hugs!
- Keep the digitizer steady and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break apart the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 28
- After loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you plan to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, slap on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.
- Watch out for those delicate display cables as you reassemble the iPad. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 29
- Grab some tweezers or your trusty fingers and gently peel away any tape that’s hiding those pesky LCD screws. Let’s get to the good stuff!
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 31
The LCD is gently sticking to the frame, just a light bond.
- Gently slip a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully pry it open with the spudger to break the adhesive seal.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Go ahead and do the same thing for the top-left corner of the LCD. You’ve got this!
Step 33
Hold your horses! Don’t go yanking that LCD out just yet—it's still hanging on by a flex cable. Let's be gentle, okay?
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its spot so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Flip the LCD over like turning a page in a book—lift near the camera and swing it around the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to get easy access to the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove that 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Easy does it, just make sure it’s nice and steady!
Step 35
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like tucked under the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide when you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector uses cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between those contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 36
Heads up! When you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker, take it easy—those battery contacts are delicate and can bend or break if you’re not careful, causing damage that’s tough to fix.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up like a proud flag!
Be gentle with that battery blocker—no need to force it under the connector. If it's being stubborn, a playing card might just be your best friend for unplugging the battery.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide right under the logic board like it's on a smooth ride. Once it's in, it should rest at about a cozy 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a cool 35-degree angle.
- Once it's in place, let the blocker chill while you keep working your magic.
Tools Used
Step 37
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws holding down the display cable bracket. Nice and easy – you're almost there!
Step 38
- Take off the display cable bracket and let's get this party started!
Step 39
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When putting press connectors back, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and intact!
Tools Used
Step 40
- Carefully detach the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface. You're doing great!
Step 41
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Careful, it's a delicate step, but you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail, and gently lift the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 43
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. No sudden moves—smooth and steady wins the race!
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Step 44
Be gentle with your iPad! Pry only on the connectors themselves, not the socket on the logic board. A little care goes a long way in keeping your device safe.
- Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to lift and unplug them—easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 45
Be careful not to poke or rip the home button ribbon cable. It's a delicate little thing, so treat it with the love it deserves!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the buffer block at the bottom-right corner of the iPad. Give it a little nudge to lift it up.
- Now that you've got a good grip, go ahead and remove that buffer block!
Tools Used
Step 46
The home button cable is held in place with a little bit of gentle adhesive. A quick pry and it'll come right off!
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift that home button cable right off the frame. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 47
Grab an opening pick and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive that's holding the front panel to the frame. It's like cutting through a sticky situation!
Without proper insulation, those areas on the digitizer can accidentally short out against other parts, causing touch issues. Let's keep things grounded the right way!
The insulation isn't visible to the eye, and it's not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you might find in some iPads. It's a sneaky little thing that does a big job!
- Start by gently taking off the front panel assembly. You've got this!
- If you notice any sneaky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches with your new display, don't worry! Just add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. But good news: if you got one of our replacement digitizers, it already comes with the right insulation, so you can skip this step!
- As you put things back together, make sure to clear away any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to clean those glued areas. This little prep step is key for making sure the new adhesive sticks like it should!
- Before sealing everything up, give your iPad a quick functionality test. Once you're happy, use our display adhesive application guide to stick those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display. You're almost there!
Step 48
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 49
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector—easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Grab your heated iOpener and place it on the bottom left corner of the rear case for a solid minute. This will help loosen up the SIM card reader’s adhesive, making it easier to work with.
Tools Used
Step 51
If the SIM card reader is feeling a bit stubborn, give it a little more warmth and give it another go!
- Gently use an opening tool to lift the bottom edge of the SIM card reader, applying a slow and steady pressure. You've got this!
Step 52
- Put your device back together by following these steps in reverse—easy peasy!
- Remember to drop off your e-waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- If things didn’t go quite as planned, try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our community for tips.
- And if you’re feeling stuck, you can always schedule a repair for expert help.
