iPad GSM Home Button Control Board Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 35 Steps
Hey there, tech wizard! Just a friendly reminder to handle those components with care and keep track of your screws! And remember, if you ever find yourself in a pickle, you can always schedule a repair for a helping hand!
Dive into this guide to swap out your electronic home button switch! Keep in mind that some of the visuals were captured using a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. But no worries! The steps are the same for both models, unless we mention otherwise. If you find yourself in a jam, feel free to schedule a repair!
Step 1
A quick tip before we dive in: give your microwave a little TLC and clean it up! Trust us, you don’t want any leftover gunk hanging out at the bottom, as it could end up making friends with the iOpener.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating can lead to a dramatic burst, and we definitely want to avoid that. Aim to keep the temperature below 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and appears swollen, steer clear of it.
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, don’t fret! Just give it a little more time to chill before reheating. A well-heated iOpener should stay nice and cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your repair buddy!
– As you dive into the repair process, keep the iOpener feeling nice and toasty by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. A little love goes a long way!
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Step 3
Careful there! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if you need it.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center.
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Step 4
If you’re not rocking a microwave, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener.
– Heat that water until it’s bubbling away, then turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, ensuring it’s fully submerged. We want it nice and toasty!
– Using tongs (safety first!), fish out the warm iOpener from the water.
– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel – we don’t want any slip-ups.
– Voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little extra warmth, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, switch off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with care—it’s more fragile than it looks!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some tape and cover that glass to prevent any extra breakage and avoid any mishaps during your repair.
– Layer on some clear packing tape over the iPad’s display, making sure to overlap the strips until the entire front is shielded.
– Stick to the guide as best as you can! Just a heads up, once the glass starts to crack, it might keep on going as you work. You may find it helpful to use a metal prying tool to scoop out those pesky glass pieces.
Step 6
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: while you’re getting your hands dirty with this repair, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky glass shards from flying your way. Safety first, right?
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it makes good contact with the surface. Give it a little love by smoothing it out!
– Let the iOpener chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Take your time and be gentle—wiggle that plastic tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Notice that little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. That’s your entry point, so let’s take advantage of it!
– Now, align your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there—enough to open up that crack a bit wider.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly wedged between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to the tool. You’ve got this!
Step 10
– Take out that handy plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick deeper under the front glass, about half an inch deep. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero to get it off. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If the tip of your opening pick is peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s perfectly fine to use the pick this deep, just a heads up that it might leave some adhesive residue on the LCD. No worries though, you’ve got this!
– While the bottom edge is getting a cozy warm-up from the iOpener, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it do its magic and release the adhesive along the way.
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Step 13
As you work on releasing the adhesive, it might be a good idea to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little dance depends on how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy tinkering with it.
– If the opening pick finds itself stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of your iPad.
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given how the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some permanent damage to the antenna. So, take it slow and steady!
– Alright, folks! It’s time to proceed with a little caution. We’re about to tackle some delicate work here.
– You’ll need to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep those fragile connections at the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, let’s take it step by step and make sure everything goes smoothly!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. You could accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner. If you’re not careful and release the adhesive the wrong way, you might accidentally cut it. So, take it slow and steady!
Just gently pull the pick out a tad from under the front glass—leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly in place. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s clinging to the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way! You’ve got this!
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating sessions short—just a minute at a time! And remember to give it a cool-down period of at least two minutes before you warm it up again. You’ve got this!
– Keep on peeling back that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Gently tug the opening pick out far enough to glide around the home button, then pop it back in, going about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you’re past the button. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad, it’s almost there!
– Slide the opening pick in and leave it snug under the front glass near the home button. You’re doing great!
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool for comfort, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep the momentum going! And hey, if your iOpener feels like it’s taken a chill pill, give it a little reheat action!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This area has some seriously strong adhesive, so don’t be shy about using a bit of muscle! Just take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If your pick seems to be stuck in that sticky stuff, try to ‘roll’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit. But if it’s still holding on tight, just give the iOpener another warm-up and place it on the left edge while you work your magic.
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gracefully maneuver the opening pick around that top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. So, when you’re sliding that pick, make sure to hit the brakes when you reach around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to loosen the adhesive as you go. No worries, the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just remember, keep that pick shallow—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 25
Be super careful—you’re only about an inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad with that digitizer cable! Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting it. You’ve got this!
– With the opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work it to release the adhesive in the bottom left corner. Keep it smooth and steady, and you’ll be on your way to a successful repair!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might have decided to stick around a bit longer than expected. If you find that the front glass is still holding on tight, grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge where it’s being stubborn. Think of it as giving the adhesive a little nudge to help it ‘cut’ loose.
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little hug with your fingers to keep it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s still holding that front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When you’re putting it all back together, make sure to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean-up. Say goodbye to dust and fingerprints before you seal it up!
Step 28
– Unscrew those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD to the back case like a pro!
Step 29
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out of the rear case with care.
– Rest the LCD on the front panel, just like you see in the second picture.
Step 30
Remember to gently lift the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves! You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in a bright red!
– Gently nudge the retaining flaps on those two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets up with the edge of a plastic opening tool. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a little care, tug the digitizer cable free from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear case. Easy peasy!
Step 32
– Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two cozy sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 33
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll want to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little wiggle of the LCD might just give you the extra space you need to make it happen!
– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge that’s furthest from the digitizer cable and flip it back toward the rear case—like you’re closing a book with style!
– While keeping the LCD elevated, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just be cautious not to let the digitizer cable catch on the rear case or LCD. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Unscrew those two 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the home button control board to the home button assembly. You’re on the right track!
Step 35
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the home button control board off its cozy mounts on the front panel.
– Once it’s free, lift that home button control board away from the front panel assembly like a pro!
