iPad Pro 12.9″ 3rd Gen USB-C port Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 6 Steps
Step 1
- Looks like our iPad’s port took a swim and got totally corroded—no wonder it stopped charging.
- Heads up: no photos this time. Didn’t plan on making a guide, but after fixing it, I figured sharing the process could help someone out.
- You’ll want a few essentials: a 00 Phillips screwdriver bit, a slim razor blade, a thin metal spudger, guitar picks or popsicle sticks, and a way to warm up your iPad. I grabbed a replacement USB-C port and some pre-cut adhesive strips to make things smoother.
- It took me about two hours. I’ve swapped iPhone screens and batteries before, so if you’re patient, careful, and have some repair experience, this is doable.
- This isn’t a beginner’s project, but it’s not rocket science either. Just be comfortable handling tiny screws and steady with your cutting tools.
Step 2
- The LCD is stuck down with some seriously tough adhesive, and yeah, it’s a bit of a pain. Heat is your best friend here to soften that stubborn glue. First thing, power off your iPad.
- There are plenty of ways to warm up the adhesive. I used a large flat non-stick coated aluminum electric pancake griddle with a temperature dial, plus an accurate thermometer to keep an eye on things.
- I set the griddle to 135°F according to my trusty thermometer and let it sit for 10 minutes to make sure the temp was steady.
- Next, place your iPad screen-side up on the 135°F griddle. Cover it with a fluffy towel to trap the heat and let it warm up for 10 minutes. The towel helps the whole iPad hit that 135°F sweet spot.
- Starting at the lower right corner near the USB-C port, carefully slide a thin razor blade under the screen to start slicing through the glue. Keep the blade shallow—no deeper than 1/8 inch.
- Once you free that corner, grab a thin metal spudger and work your way around the iPad, cutting through the adhesive. Remember, don’t go deeper than 1/8 inch to avoid nicking the digitizer cables, and steer clear of the front camera area—there’s hardly any glue there, so no need to cut. Try to finish this first pass while the iPad is still warm.
- Use guitar picks, popsicle sticks, or whatever slim tools you have handy to keep the screen from sticking back down as you cut through the glue.
- When all the adhesive is sliced, gently pry the screen away from the frame, starting at the USB port side. You’ll probably need to cut through some glue strands as you go.
Step 3
- The screen is connected by a few cables. I kept those in place while replacing the port—no need to mess with them.
- Now, gently move the screen to the side and unscrew the four screws that are holding the USB-C port to the frame. Don’t forget to remove the left and right spring clips around the port too.
- There’s a shield covering the cable that connects the port to the iPad’s insides. Take out the 5 screws securing the shield and keep track of which screws go in which holes—they’re different sizes.
- Once the shield is out of the way, you can pop the USB-C port connector free. Peel it off the iPad—it’s stuck on there with adhesive.
- Place the new connector into the frame, then connect it back to the electronics. Reattach the screws and clips, and press the cable back down. In my case, the adhesive from the iPad stayed on, so the new port’s cable stuck just fine with the old adhesive.
Step 4
- Now that the new port is all snug and secure, I plugged in a charger and watched with delight as the system powered up and started charging like a champ!
- I also took a moment to check that the iPad was functioning beautifully, including the touch screen. Just a heads-up, though—the Face ID sensor was a bit shy and threw an error saying it wasn't working. No biggie, that's totally normal!
Step 5
- Once again, power down the iPad.
- Next up, remove the old LCD adhesive. No need to get it spotless—just grab some tweezers and peel off those adhesive strips.
- You'll notice some sticky residue left on the LCD and frame. Skipping the cleanup here is totally fine, but if you want, go ahead and clean it up.
- Now, stick on the new custom adhesive strips, but keep that top plastic layer on for now.
- After applying the new strips, give the iPad another quick test, then power it down again.
- Finally, peel off the last plastic layer from the adhesive and gently set the LCD back into the frame. Take your time—this adhesive is strong, so you’ve basically got one shot to nail it.
Step 6
- To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps and follow these instructions in the opposite order. You've got this! If you run into any tricky spots, remember, you're never alone—just schedule a repair for some expert help.
