iPhone 11 Pro Screen Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
The earpiece speaker and sensor assembly glued to the back of your iPhone’s display is specially paired to your device right from the factory.
Cracked screen? Unresponsive touch? Blank display? Let’s get your iPhone 11 Pro back in action with a shiny new screen! Just a heads-up: that combo earpiece speaker + sensor assembly stuck to the back of your display is custom-fit to your phone, so you’ll need to carefully move it over to your new screen. It’s got the flood illuminator that makes Face ID tick—damage it, and Face ID will take a permanent nap. If anything goes wrong with these parts, only Apple or an authorized tech can revive Face ID. Also, after swapping screens, True Tone won’t work anymore (even if you’re using an official Apple screen), and you might see a message about the display’s authenticity for a little while. Ready? Let’s do this, and take it slow with those sensitive bits!
Step 1
Heads up! Drop your iPhone’s battery charge below 25% before diving in. Lithium-ion batteries don’t play nice when punctured—they could spark up or even explode!
Opening up your iPhone's display will break those nifty waterproof seals. Make sure you've got some replacement seals handy before diving deeper into this step, or be super careful to keep your iPhone away from any liquid if you plan to put it back together without replacing them.
- Make sure to power down your iPhone before you start taking it apart.
- Take out the two pentalobe screws, each 6.7 mm long, located along the bottom edge of your iPhone.
Step 2
If you shove the opening pick in too deep, it might nick your device—so let's avoid that! Mark your pick to keep things safe and sound.
Feel free to mark other corners of the pick with different measurements to keep track.
Or, get creative and tape a coin to the pick about 3 mm from the tip to act as a handy depth guide.
- Take a moment to measure 3 mm from the tip and give your opening pick a stylish mark with a permanent marker!
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses—your eyes deserve a little VIP protection from any glass that decides to break loose during the fix.
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Keep those sharp shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you dive into the repair.
If the suction cup just won’t stick, no worries — a dab of superglue can help it hold tight to the screen.
- Cover the iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape. Think of it as giving your phone a protective face mask.
- If the suction cup isn’t cooperating in the next steps, grab some sturdy tape (duct tape works wonders), fold it into a little handle, and use that to lift the screen instead.
Tools Used
Step 4
Up next: three steps showing off the Anti-Clamp—a handy tool that makes opening your device a breeze. If you’re not rolling with the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for a different way to crack it open.
Want the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out our guide for all the details.
If your iPhone is slicker than a greased watermelon and the Anti-Clamp keeps slipping, a little tape will give it the grip it needs.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug backwards to free up the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
- Slide the arms over to hug either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
- Line up the suction cups close to the bottom edge—one for the front, one for the back.
- Squeeze those cups together like you're prepping for a selfie, so they stick right where you need them.
Step 5
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place.
- Now, twist the handle a full 360 degrees or until those suction cups start to stretch like they're getting ready for a big dance!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they're playing nice and staying aligned. If they start to wander off, just loosen them up a bit and guide those arms back into position.
Step 6
Turn no more than a quarter at a time, and give it a minute between twists. Let the Anti-Clamp do its thing—patience pays off!
Feel free to grab a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate for this step! Just keep in mind that too much heat can be a bummer for the display and/or internal battery, so take it easy.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't opening up enough, give it another blast of heat and twist the handle a quarter turn for good measure.
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it right through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro.
- Bend that iOpener so it rests on the bottom edge of your iPhone, giving it a cozy spot.
- Chill for about a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little opening for you.
- Gently slide an opening pick into that gap between the screen and the plastic bezel, but steer clear of the screen itself.
- You can skip the next three steps—you're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 7
Warming up the lower edge of your iPhone is a clever trick to loosen the adhesive holding the display in place, making it a breeze to pop open.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener and gently warm up the lower edge of your iPhone for about a minute to loosen the adhesive hiding underneath.
Tools Used
Step 8
- When using a single suction handle, place it on the bottom edge of the phone, steering clear of the curved glass area. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive sealing the display is super tough, so popping open that first gap takes some serious muscle. If it’s not budging, try heating it up a bit more, then gently wiggle the screen up and down to loosen the adhesive until you can slip your tool in. Keep at it—you’ve got this!
- Give that suction cup a confident pull—steady and strong—to open up a tiny gap between the front panel and the back case.
- Slide an opening pick into the space under the screen (right between the screen and the plastic frame, not straight into the glass).
Step 10
Keep your pick shallow—don't go deeper than 3 mm or you could poke something important inside.
- Gently glide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left side of your iPhone, cutting through the adhesive that keeps the display snug and secure.
Step 11
Heads up: There's a sensitive cable chilling along the right edge of your iPhone. Keep your pick away from that area—no cable poking allowed!
Step 12
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no more than 3 mm—to avoid any oopsies with the display cables.
- Grab your pick and slide it back in at the bottom edge of your iPhone, then glide it up along the right side to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. Keep going, you're almost there!
Step 13
The top edge of the display is held in place by both sticky glue and some sneaky little clips.
- Carefully nudge the right edge of the display down just a bit, aiming toward the Lightning port.
- Slide your pick into the top-right corner of the phone with a steady hand.
Step 14
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no more than 3 mm—to avoid messing up the front panel sensor array.
- Gently keep pulling the display down toward the Lightning port—just enough to squeeze your pick in there. No need to wrestle with it.
- Slide the pick up to the top left corner to slice through any leftover adhesive that's holding the display hostage.
Step 15
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel like a pro!
Step 16
Hold up on pulling the display all the way off just yet—there are some delicate ribbon cables still hooking it up to the iPhone's logic board.
- Flip open the iPhone by lifting the display from the left side, kind of like opening the back cover of a book.
- Prop the display up against something sturdy so it stays put while you work on the phone.
- When putting it back together, set the display in place, line up the clips along the top edge, and gently press down the top edge before snapping the rest of the display into position. If it doesn’t click easily, double-check the clips around the edges to make sure none are bent or out of place.
Step 17
Keep a close eye on every single screw during this repair, making sure each one goes back exactly where it came from—your iPhone will thank you for it!
- Unscrew two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws to release the battery cover bracket. Keep track of those tiny screws—they’re easy to lose!
- Before you seal everything back up, it's a smart idea to power up your device and give it a quick test. Just make sure to shut it down completely before moving on to the next step. You’ve got this!
Step 18
- Pop that bracket out and set it aside.
Step 19
Be careful not to mess up the black silicone seal around this and other connections on the board. These little guys are your best friends when it comes to keeping water and dust at bay!
- Gently use a spudger or your trusty clean fingernail to lift the battery connector up from its spot on the logic board.
- Give the connector a little bend away from the board so it doesn’t accidentally reconnect and power up the phone while you’re working.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab your Y000 driver and unscrew the six little 1.3 mm guys holding down the logic board cover bracket.
Step 21
- Take off the bracket to keep things moving!
Step 22
- Gently use a spudger or your fingernail to unplug the OLED panel cable connector.
- When reconnecting connectors like this, carefully line up one side and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and safe from bending, which could cause permanent damage.
Tools Used
Step 23
- Gently pry up the front sensor assembly cable connector using a spudger or your fingernail to unplug it.
- Carefully disconnect the digitizer cable connector with a spudger or a fingernail—no force needed!
- If your screen isn’t responding to touch after reassembly, try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting this cable. Make sure it snaps in all the way and that there’s no dust or debris blocking the connection.
Tools Used
Step 24
- Gently detach the display assembly from your device. It's like giving it a little hug goodbye!
- When you're putting everything back together, take a breather here if you're thinking about swapping out the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display. It's a great way to keep things snug and dry!
Step 25
- Grab your Y000 driver and loosen the three screws holding the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:
- Two 1.3 mm screws
- One 1.9 mm screw
Step 26
Heads up! The speaker's hanging on by a super skinny ribbon cable—handle with care so it doesn’t get stretched or torn.
The earpiece speaker is gently stuck in place.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it under the top edge of the speaker—let's give it a little nudge!
- Now, flip that speaker assembly over, moving it down and away from the top edge of the display. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 27
- Grab your trusty hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener, and warm up the top front of the display for a minute or two. This will loosen up the sticky adhesive holding the sensors, making them much easier to remove.
Tools Used
Step 28
- Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to pop the microphone free from its little home in the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 29
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that the sensor is still attached to the rest of the assembly by a super delicate flex cable. So, handle it with care and avoid putting any strain on that little guy!
If the sensor isn't budging after a few seconds, don't sweat it! Just add a little more heat and give it another go. You've got this!
- Grab your tweezers, give the ambient light sensor a gentle wiggle, and lift it right out of its cozy little notch in the display.
Tools Used
Step 30
- If you managed to get the whole ambient light sensor out, just like in the first photo, go ahead and move on to the next step below.
- If that white diffuser strip decided to stick around inside the display, as seen in the second photo, you’ll want to gently pry it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Warming it up a bit first can make this part a little easier.
- When putting things back together, start by placing the diffuser into the display, making sure it’s facing the right way (the front-facing side is in the first image, the back side in the third).
- Next, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. Hold it steady while you screw in the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once those screws are snug, the sensor will stay put and work just fine.
Step 31
It's a great idea to gently lift and set the speaker aside for better access. Just be sure to avoid tugging on that delicate flex cable while you're at it!
- Starting from the left and moving right, slide an opening pick under the flex cable and beneath the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module.
- With a gentle wiggle and lift, ease the module away from its cozy spot in the front panel.
Step 32
- Line up your new part with the original one—sometimes you’ll need to move a few bits around or peel off some sticky backing before putting it in.
- Put your device back together by reversing the steps you just followed.
- Got old parts or e-waste? Take them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- If things didn’t turn out quite right, no worries! You can always schedule a repair or check out our community for troubleshooting tips.
