iPhone 12 Pro Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
iPhone batteries are designed to maintain up to 80% of their original capacity for about 500 charge cycles, which typically lasts between 18 to 24 months. After that, you might notice your phone needing a charge more often, and iOS may let you know that performance is affected (translation: things might get a bit slower). If you're ready to bring your iPhone back to its full glory, this guide will help you replace your battery and get it running like it's fresh out of the box. If your battery is swollen, make sure to handle it with care. A quick heads-up: On iOS 17.6 and earlier, your iPhone might give you a warning about the battery’s 'genuineness' after replacing it, even if you're using original Apple parts. No worries—if everything works as it should, you can safely ignore that message. For iOS 18 and later, you'll want to authenticate the new battery using Apple’s Repair Assistant. And to keep everything running smoothly, once you're done with this guide, take a moment to calibrate your new battery: charge it to 100%, keep it plugged in for at least two more hours, then use it until it shuts off from low battery. After that, charge it all the way to 100% again. If this sounds like too much, or if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Grab your SIM card eject tool or a trusty paperclip and pop it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray—it's on the side with the volume buttons.
- Give it a firm press and watch the tray pop right out.
Tools Used
Step 2
The SIM card will slip right out of the tray without any effort.
- Pop the SIM card tray out of your iPhone. A little wiggle should do the trick.
- When placing the SIM card back, double-check that it’s facing the right way in the tray. It’s all about that perfect alignment.
- There’s a tiny rubber gasket around the tray that keeps out water and dust. If it’s gone or damaged, you’ll want to swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your iPhone safe and sound.
Step 3
Quick heads up: Before you get started, make sure your iPhone's battery is below 25%. Lithium-ion batteries can be a bit unpredictable when fully charged, and we definitely don't want any fiery surprises or explosions. Stay safe and let's dive in!
Opening up your iPhone's display might let the water in, and we definitely don't want that! So, make sure you've got some replacement seals on standby before diving deeper into this step. If you're reassembling your iPhone without new seals, just be extra careful to keep it away from any liquids.
- Before you dive in, make sure your iPhone is completely powered off.
- Next, grab your pentalobe P2 screwdriver and remove the two 6.75 mm screws located at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Step 4
Be careful not to push the opening pick in too far, or it might cause some damage. Mark your pick to avoid going too deep and save your device from harm.
For extra precision, you can mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements to stay on track.
Or, if you prefer, tape a coin 3 mm from the tip of the pick. It's a quick and easy way to keep things safe and secure.
- Mark the opening pick with a permanent marker exactly 3 mm from the tip—precision is key, but no pressure!
Step 5
Don’t forget your safety glasses! They'll keep your eyes safe from any glass bits that might come loose during the repair. Better safe than sorry!
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Keep those shards in check and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass before you dive into the repair.
If the suction cup won’t stick, a dab of superglue can help it hold tight to the screen.
- Cover the whole front of your iPhone with overlapping strips of clear packing tape. Think of it as giving your screen a temporary, shiny shield.
- If the suction cup refuses to cooperate in the next steps, try making a handle out of sturdy tape (duct tape works wonders) and use that to lift the screen. A little tape ingenuity goes a long way!
Step 6
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp – our nifty little invention designed to make opening your device a breeze! If you don't have the Anti-Clamp on hand, no worries! Just hop down three steps for a different approach.
Want to become an Anti-Clamp pro? Check out our handy guide for all the tips and tricks!
If your iPhone's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a little tape can work wonders! Just stick some on to create a better hold.
- Give the blue handle a gentle tug back to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide the arms around the left or right side of your iPhone, whichever feels right.
- Place the suction cups near the bottom of your iPhone—one on the front, one on the back.
- Press the cups together to create a nice, firm suction where you need it.
Step 7
- Pull the blue handle forward to lock those arms into place.
- Give the handle a full spin clockwise (yep, all the way around) or keep going until the cups start stretching.
- Keep those suction cups lined up with each other—if they start to wander, loosen things up a bit and get them realigned.
Step 8
Go easy—just a quarter turn at a time, and give it a minute between twists. The Anti-Clamp’s got this; patience is your secret weapon!
For step-by-step guidance on how to handle that hair dryer, be sure to check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't creating enough of a gap, try adding a bit more heat to the area and giving the handle a gentle quarter turn.
- Place your iPhone on a sturdy surface, like a hardcover book, ensuring it's laying flat and hands-free. It'll make the upcoming steps a breeze!
- Grab a hair dryer and gently warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone. The screen should get just a bit too hot to touch comfortably.
- Let the heat do its magic for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to loosen up and create a small gap.
- Once the gap is big enough, slide an opening pick under the plastic screen bezel, courtesy of that handy Anti-Clamp.
- Skip ahead a few steps and take a breather!
Tools Used
Step 9
Keep your hair dryer moving and don’t hold it in one spot too long!
- Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it’s just too warm to comfortably touch. Don't overdo it, you just need it nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 10
- Grab your single suction handle and stick it near the bottom edge of the phone, but steer clear of the very edge of the glass to keep things safe and sound.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Give the suction cup a gentle but confident tug to lift the screen and open up a small gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap at a sharp angle, like you're sneaking in for the perfect slice.
Gently slide the opening pick under the thick plastic bezel to prevent any screen damage. Look for a visible gap—if the pick slides through smoothly without snagging, you're on the right track! If you don't see that gap, give the screen a little more lift and try again.
The adhesive holding the screen in place is pretty tough, so getting that initial gap open will require a bit of elbow grease. If you're struggling, don't worry—just add a bit more heat and gently wiggle the screen up and down. This will help loosen the adhesive enough to create the gap you need to get your tool in there. Take your time, and you'll get it!
Step 12
- Grab your hair dryer and aim it at the right side of your iPhone (the side with the power button). Warm it up for about 90 seconds, or until the screen feels almost too warm to touch. That’s your cue!
Tools Used
Step 13
Keep your pick to a max depth of 3 mm to avoid giving your device a surprise makeover on the inside!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPhone to start loosening that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep sliding the pick up along the right edge until you hit the top right corner—smooth and steady wins the race.
- Leave the pick resting in the top right corner for now before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the top edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it feels just a bit too toasty to touch.
Tools Used
Step 15
Keep your pick shallow—no more than 3 mm—or you risk poking the top sensors, and trust me, they don’t appreciate surprise visits!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top right corner of the iPhone to loosen the adhesive up there.
- Keep the pick tucked in the top left corner before you move on to the next step.
Step 16
- Fire up your hair dryer and warm up the left edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it’s just a little too hot for comfort.
Tools Used
Step 17
Heads up! There are some sensitive cables running along the left edge of your iPhone. Steer clear of poking your pick there to keep everything safe and sound.
Step 18
Gently apply twisting pressure bit by bit.
If the adhesive is being stubborn, give the left edge a little warm-up and try again.
- Pop in a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of your iPhone. You're doing great!
- Now, give those picks a little twist together until you hear a satisfying click from the left edge clips letting go. Keep going, you're almost there!
Step 19
Hold up on pulling the display all the way off just yet—there are still some delicate ribbon cables hooking it up to the iPhone’s logic board.
- Turn your iPhone so the right side is facing you.
- Open it up by swinging the display from the right side, just like flipping open a book cover.
- Prop the display up by leaning it against something sturdy to keep it steady while you work.
- When putting it back together, position the display, line up the clips along the top edge, and gently press the top edge down before snapping the rest of the display in place. If it doesn’t snap in easily, check the clips around the edges to make sure none are bent or stuck.
Step 20
As you work through this repair, keep a close eye on each screw and remember where it belongs. Keeping things organized will help you avoid any mishaps with your iPhone.
- Unscrew those two 1.1 mm Y000 screws holding down the battery and display connector cover. You're doing great!
- Now, while you're putting things back together, why not take a moment to power up your iPhone? Test all those functions before sealing the display. Just remember to turn it off completely before diving back into the repair. You've got this!
Step 21
- Pop off the cover to get things started.
Step 22
Be gentle around the black silicone seals next to the board connections—they’re the phone’s little raincoats, keeping water and dust out. No need to poke holes in their armor!
- Grab a spudger or your trusty clean fingernail and gently lift the battery connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board.
- Give the connector a little bend away from the logic board. This way, it won't accidentally reconnect and power up your device while you're in the zone fixing things!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab your trusty spudger or even your fingernail to gently unplug that display cable connector. You've got this!
- When it's time to reconnect, align those connectors just right and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If it gets misaligned, those little pins could bend, and we definitely don't want that. Stay careful, and keep your repair game strong!
Tools Used
Step 24
- Grab your trusty spudger or just your fingernail to gently unplug that digitizer cable connector. You've got this!
- If your screen is playing hard to get and doesn't respond after your fix, no worries! Just disconnect the battery and reconnect that cable. Make sure it clicks snugly into place, and check for any sneaky dust or debris that might be causing trouble.
Tools Used
Step 25
- Grab your trusty Y000 driver and let's tackle those four screws holding down the front sensor connector cover. You've got this!
- Keep an eye out for three screws that are just 1.1 mm long; they're the little guys in this project.
- And don't forget about the one 1.4 mm-long screw – it’s the tall friend in this group!
Step 26
- Lift the cover up from the left side until that little clip on the right pops free.
- Take the cover off.
- When putting it back, start by snapping the clip on the right edge into its slot, then swing the rest of the cover down to secure it.
Step 27
- Gently pry up the front sensor assembly cable connector using a spudger or your fingernail to disconnect it.
Tools Used
Step 28
- Time to say goodbye to the display assembly! Carefully remove it, and remember, no rushing—patience is key.
- Now, if you're feeling fancy and want to upgrade that waterproof adhesive around the display's edges, this is your moment! Pause here during reassembly and get it done right!
Step 29
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the four 1.6 mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place. Easy does it!
Step 30
- Carefully take out the loudspeaker.
Step 31
- Grab your trusty Y000 driver and let's get to work! Carefully unscrew those two tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the SIM card reader connector cover. You're doing great!
Step 32
- Let's get started by gently removing the cover that keeps the SIM card reader cable connector safe and sound.
Step 33
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the SIM card reader cable connector straight up and out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grab your trusty Y000 driver and let's tackle those three screws holding the SIM card reader in place! You'll need two 1.4 mm screws and one 1.1 mm screw to make this happen.
Step 35
- Time to say goodbye to the Taptic Engine cable connector bracket! Gently remove it and make way for some repair magic.
Step 36
If you're reaching for a small flathead screwdriver, go slow and steady—these little guys love to slip, and nobody wants surprise scratches on the circuit board.
The best way to get those standoff screws out is with a standoff screwdriver or the right bit—makes the job smooth and easy!
- Grab a standoff or a small flathead screwdriver and gently remove that 2.82 mm long standoff screw holding down the SIM card reader. You've got this!
Step 37
- Pop out the SIM card reader like a pro.
- Before you put it back, double-check that the SIM eject plunger is sitting flush along the edge of your phone.
Step 38
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the Taptic Engine cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Time to unscrew the Taptic Engine: grab those three screws and set them free.
- You’ll find two 2.8 mm standoff screws—these are the slightly longer ones.
- And there’s one 1.8 mm Phillips screw, which is a bit shorter—don’t mix them up!
Step 40
- Take out the Taptic Engine—give it a gentle lift and set it aside like a pro.
Step 41
The battery is held in place by four pieces of stretchy adhesive goodness—two at the bottom and two at the top. It's like it’s giving the battery a snug hug!
In the next steps, you’ll gently pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive hiding beneath the battery. These nifty command-strip style adhesives are designed to lose their grip when stretched, making battery removal a breeze.
If any of the strips decide to break on you, don’t sweat it! They can be a bit temperamental. Keep reading for some handy tips on dealing with those pesky broken strips.
- Each strip of adhesive sports a sleek black pull-tab at its tip, gently stuck to the battery’s edge, ready for you to grab and peel.
Step 42
Heads up: Avoid poking the battery with sharp objects. A punctured battery could spill some nasty stuff or even start a fire!
- Gently peel down the first battery adhesive pull-tab to free it from the bottom edge of the battery. You've got this!
Step 43
- Gently pull down the second battery adhesive pull-tab to release it from the bottom edge of the battery. You've got this!
Step 44
If any of those sticky strips under the battery snap off and disappear, don’t stress! Try to grab the ones you still can, then keep cruising along with the next steps below.
- Pinch the first pull-tab with your fingers and gently stretch it away from the battery, aiming toward the bottom of your iPhone.
- If the adhesive strip snaps, try to grab the end with your fingers or some blunt tweezers and keep pulling—just don’t wedge anything under the battery.
- Keep a steady tension on the strip, but don’t go wild. Let it stretch out slowly so it can peel away from under the battery.
- Skip pressing on the battery—just grip the iPhone by its sides for support.
- Keep the strip smooth and flat, and try to tug evenly across the whole thing instead of yanking it from one spot.
- Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn’t get caught on the edge of the battery.
Tools Used
Step 45
If the adhesive decides to play hide and seek under the battery and you can’t fish it out, just keep on truckin’ to the next step!
- Grab that second pull-tab with your fingers and give it a gentle pull toward the bottom of your iPhone—just like you’re winning a prize.
- If the adhesive strip snaps, don’t panic! Try snagging the loose end with your fingers or some blunt tweezers, and keep on pulling. Just remember: no digging under the battery.
- Use the same smooth moves as before—don’t press on the battery, keep the strip nice and flat, and pull at a chill, low angle.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Lift the last two battery adhesive pull-tabs to free them from the top edge of the battery.
Step 47
Watch out — the battery might want to make a surprise exit when the last adhesive strip lets go!
- Just like before, give those remaining two tabs a gentle pull, one at a time, to stretch and peel off the last adhesive strip holding the battery snugly in place. Be careful not to let the adhesive get stuck on anything else!
- If you managed to remove all the adhesive strips without a hitch, you can skip the next step.
- If not, no worries! Just keep on scrolling down to the next step.
Step 48
No need to muscle that battery out! If it’s being stubborn, drop a little more alcohol to soften the glue. And hey, don’t twist, bend, or poke the battery with your pry tool—it’s not a stress ball!
- Still stuck? Try dripping a little high-strength (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the battery edge where the adhesive isn’t budging.
- Let the alcohol hang out for about a minute to loosen things up.
- Grab your opening pick or the flat end of a spudger and gently coax the battery out.
Tools Used
Step 49
- Line up your new part with the original one—sometimes you’ll need to move over little bits or peel off sticky layers before popping it in.
- Put your device back together by simply reversing the steps you followed to take it apart.
- Once you’re done, some parts might let you calibrate them using Apple’s Repair Assistant (starting with iOS 18). Just update your device, go to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the instructions on screen.
- Don’t forget to recycle your old electronic waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- If things didn’t quite go as planned, try some basic troubleshooting or feel free to schedule a repair with us for extra help.
