iPhone 12 Pro Max Taptic Engine Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Ready to bring your iPhone 12 Pro Max back to life? Follow these steps to swap out or replace the Taptic Engine, the magic behind your phone's vibration and haptic feedback. It's easier than it sounds, so let’s get started and fix that buzz!
Step 1
Heads up! Before diving in, make sure your iPhone's battery is below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit dramatic and might catch fire or explode if it gets punctured. Safety first, friends!
Popping open your iPhone's display will break its waterproof seals. Make sure you have some replacement seals handy before moving forward, or be extra careful to keep liquids away if you put it back together without swapping the seals.
- Before you start taking your iPhone apart, make sure to power it down completely.
- Next, grab your pentalobe P2 screwdriver and remove the two 6.7 mm screws located at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Step 2
Pushing your opening pick in too deep can cause damage—let’s avoid that! Mark your pick to keep things safe and sound.
Feel free to mark the other edges of your pick with different measurements for extra precision.
Or, tape a coin onto your pick about 3 mm from the tip to create a handy depth guide.
- Take a moment to measure 3 mm from the tip and give that opening pick a little mark with a permanent marker. You're laying the groundwork for success!
Step 3
Put on those snazzy safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any pesky glass bits that might try to escape during the repair.
If your iPhone screen is cracked, slap some tape over the glass to keep those shards in check and avoid any accidental ouchies while you work.
And hey, if the suction cup just won’t stick, a little superglue can help it hang tight on the screen.
- Cover the iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, making sure you get every inch.
- If the suction cup refuses to play nice, grab a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape works wonders), fold it into a handy grip, and use that to lift the screen instead.
Step 4
The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp—our handy gadget for making the opening process smoother. If you're not rolling with the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to crack this nut.
Want the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
If your iPhone is giving the Anti-Clamp the slip, just slap on some tape to help it grip.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide the arms onto either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
- Place the suction cups near the bottom edge—one on the front and one on the back of the iPhone.
- Press the cups together to create a strong seal on the area you want to lift.
Step 5
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
- Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you notice the suction cups beginning to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to ensure they stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift out of position, loosen them a bit and straighten the arms back up.
Step 6
Take it easy and don’t twist more than a quarter turn at once. Give it a minute between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp and time work their magic for you!
Need a refresher on wielding a hair dryer? Check out this guide for the full scoop.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you enough room to work, hit the area with a bit more heat and give the handle another quarter turn.
- Place your iPhone on a solid surface, like a hardcover book, so it stays steady and flat—this makes the next steps way easier.
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone. The screen should feel just hot enough to make you think, 'Yep, that's the sweet spot.'
- Take a quick breather for about a minute—this gives the adhesive a chance to loosen up and create a small gap.
- When the Anti-Clamp has made enough space, slide an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel.
- Skip ahead by three steps—this part's already covered.
Tools Used
Step 7
Keep your hair dryer moving—don’t hold it in one spot too long!
- Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it feels just a bit too toasty to touch.
Tools Used
Step 8
- Grab your single suction handle and stick it near the bottom edge of the phone—just steer clear of the very edge of the glass to keep things smooth.
Tools Used
Step 9
Hey there! Just a quick tip: when you're sliding that opening pick under the thick plastic bezel, make sure to be gentle so you don't accidentally harm your screen. Look for a visible gap, and ensure the pick moves smoothly without snagging. If that gap is playing hard to get, give the screen a little more lift.
That waterproof glue keeping your screen on is no joke—it takes some real muscle to break through at first. If it’s putting up a fight, hit it with a little more heat and gently wiggle the screen up and down. Keep at it until you’ve opened up enough space to slide your tool in and get to work.
- Grab the suction cup and pull up with steady, confident pressure to gently create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick in at a sharp angle into that gap to start loosening things up.
Step 10
- Grab your hair dryer and gently warm up the right edge of your iPhone (the side with the power button). Aim for about 90 seconds or until the screen feels just a little too hot to touch. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 11
Keep your pick insertion to under 3 mm — going deeper might mess with the internal parts, and we want to keep those safe!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPhone to loosen up the adhesive holding things together.
- Keep sliding the pick up along the right edge until you reach the top right corner—smooth and steady wins the race.
- Once you’re at the top right corner, leave the pick in place before moving on to the next step.
Step 12
- Grab your hair dryer and warm up the top edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it’s just a little too hot to comfortably touch.
Tools Used
Step 13
Keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm, or you might accidentally poke some sensitive sensors up top!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPhone to loosen the top adhesive.
- Keep the pick resting in the top left corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Grab a hair dryer and give that left edge of the iPhone some love! Heat it up for about 90 seconds or until it's just warm enough to make you say, 'Whoa, that's toasty!'
Tools Used
Step 15
The left edge of your iPhone is home to some fragile cables. Avoid sliding your pick in that area—those cables don’t take kindly to poking and prodding!
Step 16
Turn up the twist slowly and steadily.
If the adhesive is being stubborn, warm up the left edge again to loosen it up.
- Slide a second opening pick into the bottom left corner of your iPhone.
- Gently twist both picks at the same time until the clips along the left edge pop free.
Step 17
Hold up! Don’t separate the display completely just yet—there are still some delicate ribbon cables hooking it up to the iPhone’s logic board.
- Start by turning your iPhone so the right edge is facing you.
- Now, gently lift the display up from the right side, just like you’re opening the cover of a book.
- While working on your phone, lean the display against something stable to keep it propped up—it's like giving it a little support while you work your magic.
- When you’re putting everything back together, align the clips along the top edge and carefully press the top edge into place. Don’t rush! Once the top clicks in, work your way down to snap the rest into place. If it’s not clicking easily, double-check the clips around the display’s perimeter. They might be bent, so make sure they're good to go.
Step 18
As you go, keep each screw in its own spot—mixing them up can make your iPhone cranky.
- Take out the four 1.1 mm-long Y000 screws holding down the battery and display connector cover.
- When putting everything back together, it's a smart move to power on your iPhone and make sure everything is working before sealing up the display. Don’t forget to shut your iPhone down completely again before moving on.
Step 19
- First up, pop off the battery and the cover hiding the display connector. Easy does it!
Step 20
Go easy around the black silicone seal hugging this and other board connections—it’s the gatekeeper keeping out water and dust. Handle with care so your device stays protected!
- Grab a spudger or just your clean fingernail to gently lift the battery connector out of its spot on the logic board.
- Carefully bend the connector away from the board a bit so it doesn’t accidentally touch the socket and zap power back into the phone while you’re working.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Grab your trusty spudger or even just your fingernail to gently disconnect that display cable connector. You've got this!
- When it's time to reattach, carefully line up those connectors and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side, but remember, no pressing down in the middle! If things get a bit wobbly, those tiny pins might bend, and we definitely don't want that. Keep it aligned and secure!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Grab your Y000 driver and carefully take out the four tiny 1.1 mm screws holding down the front sensor connector cover. Keep them safe!
Step 23
- Gently lift the cover from the left side until the small clip on the right side pops loose.
- Take the cover off.
- When putting everything back together, start by inserting the clip on the right edge into its slot, then swing the rest of the cover into place.
Step 24
- Gently pry up the front sensor assembly cable connector using a spudger or your fingernail to unplug it.
Tools Used
Step 25
- Take off the display assembly—like a magician revealing what's inside.
- If you're feeling extra fancy during reassembly, this is the perfect moment to swap out the waterproof adhesive around the display edges. Your device deserves a fresh seal!
Step 26
- Grab your trusty Phillips driver and unscrew those four 1.4 mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place. Easy peasy, just keep track of them!
Step 27
- Gently lift the loudspeaker out of its snug spot, peeling it carefully away from its adhesive. Don't forget to save that strip for the new loudspeaker.
- Pop out the loudspeaker.
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips driver and carefully unscrew the 1.4 mm screw holding the Taptic Engine plastic cover in place. Easy does it!
Step 29
- Pop off that plastic cover—don’t be shy, just give it a gentle lift and set it aside.
Step 30
- Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift the Taptic Engine connector straight out of its socket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
If you're in a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the trick. Just be careful—make sure it doesn't slip and cause any collateral damage to the other parts. A little caution goes a long way!
To tackle those standoff screws, grab a standoff screwdriver or bit for the best results. You've got this!
- Let’s give those three screws holding the Taptic Engine a little vacation:
- Two are 2.8 mm standoff screws—don’t mix them up!
- One is a 1.6 mm Phillips screw, the odd one out.
Step 32
- Give your new replacement part a good look next to the original—don’t forget to swap over any leftover bits or peel off those sticky backings before you dive into installation!
- To put everything back together, just retrace your steps from above in reverse order. Easy peasy!
- Got some old tech lying around? Time to get it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler—let's keep our planet happy!
- Things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped? No worries! Try a little basic troubleshooting, or if you need some extra hands, feel free to schedule a repair and we’ll sort it out together.
