iPhone 16 Plus Loudspeaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 27 Steps
Ready to bring the beats back to your iPhone 16 Plus? This guide walks you through swapping out your loudspeaker. If your tunes sound weak, or you’re getting more static than sound, it’s probably time for a new loudspeaker. Don’t forget: you’ll need fresh back glass adhesive for a solid finish.
Step 1
Let your phone's battery dip below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery could be a bit of a safety risk. Better safe than sorry, right?
- First, go ahead and unplug any cables from your phone, just to make sure there's no connection holding it back.
- Next, press and hold the power button along with either volume button, then slide to turn off your phone. It's like putting your phone to bed – nice and easy.
Step 2
Find a nice smooth spot near the bottom edge, big enough for your suction cup to get a good grip.
- If your screen or back glass is seriously cracked, slap some overlapping strips of packing tape over it to keep the shards in check and make taking it apart a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 3
Push the pick in too far and your device might not be too happy—mark your pick so you know just how deep to go.
Want to be extra slick? Mark the other corners of your pick with different depths for quick reference.
Another easy trick: tape a coin about 3 mm from the tip of your pick and boom—you’ve got a built-in depth stop.
- Mark the opening pick 3 mm from the tip using a permanent marker to keep your grip game on point.
Step 4
- Grab your P2 pentalobe driver and twist out the two 7.7 mm screws flanking the USB-C port. Easy does it!
Step 5
Heads up: don’t crank up the heat too much—the battery’s not a fan of getting too toasty and could get damaged.
Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the bottom edge of the back glass until it feels nice and toasty—just not so hot you cook your fingertips!
- Take your iOpener and give it a good heat-up session on the bottom edge of the back glass for about two minutes. Let the warmth work its magic!
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Step 6
- Place a suction handle on the lower edge of the back glass, just above the USB-C port.
- Give it a firm pull to open up a small gap between the back glass and the frame.
- Gently slide an opening pick into that gap to start working your way around.
Tools Used
Step 7
As you work your way through slicing the adhesive under the back glass, keep an eye on these spots—they’re a little trickier than the rest!
- Heads up: There's a thin cable hanging out by the volume up button, connecting the back glass to the phone. Keep your pick away from this spot—nobody likes a sliced cable.
- Spring contacts are chilling all around the edge of the phone. Go gentle and don’t push your pick in too far, unless you’re into bent contacts (spoiler: you’re not).
Step 8
Keep your pick shallow—no more than 5 mm on the bottom edge—to steer clear of those delicate spring contacts.
- Wiggle your pick along the bottom edge to break up that stubborn adhesive—slide back and forth like you mean it.
- Park your pick in the bottom right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneakily stick itself back together.
Step 9
Grab your hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the back glass until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
- Place a warm iOpener on the right edge of the back glass and let it chill there for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 10
Be careful not to push your pick more than 5mm along the right edge—you don't want to accidentally damage the spring contacts or ribbon cable.
Avoid slicing near the volume buttons, as doing so could harm the wireless charging or flash cable.
- Glide your pick around the bottom right corner and cruise halfway up the right edge, stopping when you hit a stubborn clip holding the back glass in place.
- Leave your pick parked there so the adhesive doesn’t get any ideas about sticking itself back together.
Step 11
Grab your hair dryer or heat gun and warm things up until it feels pretty toasty—just make sure it’s not too hot to handle!
- Gently warm up your iOpener and press it against the left edge of the back glass for two minutes. Give it a moment to work its magic, and you'll be one step closer to getting that device back in action!
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Step 12
Keep your pick insertion under 5 mm along the left edge to dodge any spring contact drama.
As you slide along, you’ll hear those metal clips pop free—like you’re unlocking a secret level.
- Pop in a second opening pick at the bottom edge.
- Carefully slide that second pick around the bottom left corner and glide it along the left side of the screen to loosen the adhesive and free the metal clips.
- Keep this pick wedged in at the top left corner so the adhesive doesn’t snap back together.
Step 13
Grab your hair dryer or heat gun, and warm it up until it's nice and toasty to the touch.
- Place a warm iOpener on the top edge of the back glass, making sure to cover the volume buttons at an angle, and let it work its magic for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 14
Keep your pick shallow—no more than 3 mm along the top edge—or you might poke those delicate spring contacts.
You’ll hear and feel those satisfying clicks as the top two clips pop loose.
- Glide your opening pick along the top edge and cruise around the top right corner, stopping at the volume up button. This loosens up the adhesive, making things a whole lot easier.
Step 15
Don't yank the back glass off just yet—it's still connected by a delicate ribbon cable. Follow the next steps carefully to get it off without a hitch.
If the back glass isn’t popping open easily, don’t stress—just take another pass around the edges with your pick to make sure you didn’t miss any spots of adhesive or get caught on any stubborn clips.
You might need to lift the back glass just a little bit before you can swing it open fully to release the clips.
- Gently open the back glass, swinging it towards the volume buttons like you're giving it a little hug.
- Support the back glass with something clean and sturdy, like a small box, to keep the cable happy and avoid any tension.
- Carefully remove the opening picks, but don't let them run off into the wild.
Step 16
- Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 driver and unscrew the two tiny 1.3 mm screws holding down the middle connector cover. Keep those screws safe!
Step 17
Handle the battery with care – no need to add any extra dents or holes during this step!
- Grab your blunt-nose tweezers or just your fingers, slide the cover gently toward the left edge of the phone, and pop its hook free from the logic board slot.
- Take off the cover.
- When putting it back, line up the hooks with their slots on the logic board, press the cover down, and slide it to the right edge to lock everything back in place.
Tools Used
Step 18
- Grab the spudger and gently use the point to lift the battery press connector out. It's like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Hey, come on out!'
- When you're putting it back, carefully line up the connector with its socket, then press down with your finger or the flat side of the spudger. Start on one side, then move to the other. You'll hear a satisfying 'click' when it's in place. No need to force it—if it's being stubborn, just reposition and try again. Patience pays off!
Tools Used
Step 19
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and unplug the wireless charging coil press connector.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Gently lift the back glass off the frame and set it aside like a pro.
Step 21
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three little guys holding down the Taptic Engine bracket:
- Two screws, each 1.9 mm long
- One screw, 2.1 mm long
Step 22
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift off the Taptic Engine bracket. It should come off easily, but don't rush it!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the Taptic Engine press connector to disconnect it. No stress, just a little nudge and you'll be on your way!
Tools Used
Step 24
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and remove the 1.8mm screw that’s keeping the Taptic Engine in place. Easy peasy!
Step 25
- Grab those blunt-nose tweezers or just use your fingers, and gently lift out the Taptic Engine like you’re picking up a tiny treasure.
Tools Used
Step 26
Watch out for that battery—treat it like a carton of eggs. No poking or squishing it with your screwdriver!
No standoff driver? No worries! A slim flathead driver can do the trick—just take care not to mess up those shallow screw notches.
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew four screws that are holding the loudspeaker in place.
- Time to break out your tri-point Y000 screwdriver! Use it to remove the 1.3mm screw that keeps the grounding contact and loudspeaker locked together.
- Now, use your standoff screwdriver to remove the 3.4mm screw keeping the loudspeaker secured.
- Don't forget to unscrew the three 1.5mm-long screws.
- And finally, grab that 3.0mm-long screw and remove it.
Tools Used
Step 27
- Put your phone back together by retracing these steps in reverse.
- Got old electronics? Drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- If things didn’t go quite right, give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our iPhone 16 Plus Answers community for tips.
- And if you’re still stuck, you can always schedule a repair with us.
