iPhone 16e Front Camera Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 53 Steps
Ready to give your iPhone 16e a little TLC? This guide will walk you through replacing the front camera assembly, which includes the front-facing camera and the Face ID magic! If your selfies are looking a bit fuzzy or your camera is struggling to focus, it might be time for a new assembly. And if Face ID is giving you a hard time, this could be the culprit too! Don’t forget, you'll need some replacement back glass adhesive to wrap things up. After you've completed the repair, make sure to calibrate your authentic Apple front cameras using Repair Assistant. Just a heads-up: some of the photos in this guide are from a different model, so there might be a few visual quirks, but don’t worry, they won’t mess with your repair journey!
Step 1
Let your phone's battery dip below 25%—a fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a safety risk, so it's good to give it some breathing room.
- Disconnect all cables from your phone before getting started.
- Press and hold the power button along with either volume button, then slide to turn off your phone.
Step 2
Find a nice smooth spot near the bottom edge that’s just right for your suction cup to grab onto.
- If your screen or back glass is pretty cracked, lay down some overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass. It keeps shards in place, keeps you safe, and makes the disassembly a whole lot easier. When you're ready to move on, if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 3
- Grab a P2 pentalobe screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 7.8mm-long screws on each side of the charging port. It's a quick task—just make sure those screws are set aside safely!
Step 4
If you push your pick in too far, you might end up causing damage to your device. To avoid that, make sure to mark your pick before using it.
You can also make marks on other corners of the pick, each with a different measurement, to stay safe while working.
Alternatively, stick a coin to the pick about 3mm from the tip with some tape, and you're good to go.
- Grab your opening pick and measure 3mm from the tip. Mark that spot with a permanent marker so you know exactly where to go next.
Step 5
Watch out for the heat! Keep your phone cool, because that battery of yours isn't a fan of the fiery stuff.
You can also grab a hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the bottom edge of the back glass until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
- Place a heated iOpener on the bottom edge of the back glass and let it work its magic for 90 seconds.
Tools Used
Step 6
- Stick a suction handle onto the lower part of the back glass.
- Give that handle a confident pull—steady is the game—until you see a gap form between the glass and the frame.
- Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you made.
Tools Used
Step 7
When you're slicing through the adhesive for the back glass, keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—to steer clear of any hidden hazards lurking underneath.
- A fragile cable links the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume up button—handle it gently! Around the edges of the phone, you'll find a bunch of spring contacts that keep things connected. Take your time and keep track of where everything goes. If you run into trouble, remember you can always schedule a repair for extra help.
Step 8
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the back glass to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick near the bottom left corner to start. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 9
Grab your hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the back glass until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
- Heat up an iOpener and gently place it on the left edge of the back glass. Let it sit for about 90 seconds, just enough time to give it a little warmth and soften things up. Patience is key!
Tools Used
Step 10
As you go along, you'll feel those metal clips pop loose—it's kind of satisfying!
- Gently rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner, then glide it along the left edge to loosen the adhesive and pop the metal clips free. Keep the pick near the top left corner for easy access. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 11
Grab your hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the back glass until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
- Heat things up! Grab your trusty iOpener and give the top edge of that back glass a warm hug for 90 seconds. It's like a spa day, but for your phone!
Tools Used
Step 12
As you move along, you'll feel and hear those metal clips give way.
- Take your opening pick and gently rotate it around the top left corner, then slide it along the top edge. This will help you separate the adhesive and pop out the metal clips, easy does it!
- Keep that pick tucked in the top right corner for now – it'll be your trusty companion for the next step!
Step 13
Fire up that heat gun or blow dryer and aim it at the back glass until it’s nice and warm to the touch. A gentle, even heat helps loosen things up without causing a fuss.
- Warm up the right edge of the back glass with a heated iOpener for about 90 seconds.
Tools Used
Step 14
Keep it light—don’t push that pick in more than 3 mm deep, or you might end up with a surprise cable party where you don't want one. Stay gentle and save the drama for your favorite TV show.
You'll both hear and feel the metal clip pop free as you slide past it.
- Gently rotate the opening pick around the top right corner, then slide it along the right edge to loosen the remaining adhesive and lift out the metal clip. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with us.
Step 15
At this stage, your back glass adhesive should be fully loosened. If there's still some clingy spots, gently slide your opening pick around the edges to break free any remaining adhesive residue.
- Carefully swing open the back glass to the right side of the phone and prop it up securely against a clean, sturdy surface.
Step 16
- Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 1.3mm-long screws holding down the lower connector cover. Easy, right?
Tools Used
Step 17
- Grab your tweezers (or just use your fingers, no judgment) and gently lift up the lower connector cover. Slide it toward the top of the phone—like you’re giving it a little vacation—to pop it off that metal clip.
- Take off the lower connector cover and set it aside. One less thing in your way!
Tools Used
Step 18
- Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to lift up and unplug the battery press connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 19
- Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and take out the 1.0 mm screw that's holding down the middle connector cover. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 20
The middle connector cover hangs out in two metal clips—one up top, one down below.
Step 21
- Grab that trusty spudger and carefully pry up the wireless charging coil press connector to disconnect it. Easy does it—think of it as giving your device a gentle high-five to start the repair. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 22
- Lift the back glass off the frame and remove it.
Step 23
- To get started, remove the two screws that hold the top connector cover in place using a tri-point Y000 screwdriver.
- You'll find one screw that's 1.0 mm long.
- And another screw that's 1.3 mm long.
Tools Used
Step 24
- Grab your tweezers (or your fingers if you're feeling brave) and carefully lift off the front camera bracket.
Tools Used
Step 25
- Grab your spudger and gently pry up the front camera assembly press connectors to disconnect them. Take your time—patience is key! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 26
- Slide the pointy end of a spudger between the front camera assembly and the frame—like you're sneaking a peek into a secret compartment!
- Gently pry up the front camera assembly until you can snag it with your fingers. It's like giving it a little lift-off!
- Carefully detach the front camera assembly and voilà, it's free!
Tools Used
Step 27
- Nice work taking your device apart! Now let's walk through putting it all back together step by step.
Step 28
- Gently slide the front camera assembly into its spot in the frame, making sure it clicks into place.
- Press down on the assembly to ensure it's lying flat and snug as a bug.
Step 29
- Gently slide the rear camera assembly cable into its slot along the battery, making sure it’s snug and secure. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 30
- Grab your spudger or just use your fingers to snap the front camera assembly connectors back into place. Easy does it—no need to wrestle!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Pop the front top connector cover onto the logic board, lining it up over those three press connectors. Like putting the cherry on top—neat and sweet!
Step 32
- Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and pop in the two screws that hold down the top connector cover:
- One screw is a dainty 1.0 mm-long
- The other is a slightly beefier 1.3 mm-long
Tools Used
Step 33
Gently gather the sticky adhesive with the tip of your spudger, then grab it carefully with tweezers—think of it like a tiny sticky treasure hunt!
- Grab some tweezers to gently lift the adhesive all around the frame's edge—no need to force it, just a steady hand. Then, grab a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth, dip it in some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%), and give those sticky spots a good clean. This will help dissolve any leftover adhesive and prep the surface for the next step. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 34
Heads up: the color of your adhesive liner and the spots where the pull tabs are might look a bit different than what you expect.
- Position your new adhesive over the frame, making sure the larger blue liner is facing down and the pull tab is in the bottom-right corner, ready for action.
- Utilize features like the camera cutout and the notches along the edges to envision how the adhesive will fit snugly in the frame.
Step 35
Once the adhesive is in place, it's a one-shot deal. If you need to move it, you'll have to peel it off and start fresh with a new strip of adhesive.
- Grab that handy pull tab and start peeling the back liner off the adhesive from the bottom. Don't go all the way, though—just a little to get things going.
- Now, hold the blue liner out of the way and line up the adhesive with the bottom edge of your iPhone. Make sure it's all nice and aligned.
- Carefully lower the bottom edge of the adhesive into its spot on the frame, and be sure those spring contacts on the iPhone line up perfectly with their matching cutouts in the liner.
Step 36
When you line up the bottom edge of the adhesive just right, the sides and top will snap perfectly into place. If it looks a bit off, peel it off and try again with fresh adhesive.
No fresh adhesive on hand? No worries! You can put your iPhone back together and use it as usual, but heads up—your phone won’t be water-resistant until you replace that adhesive.
- As you peel the backing off the adhesive, press it firmly along the edges of your iPhone’s frame—like you’re giving it a secure little hug.
Step 37
- Use the flat end of your spudger to gently press the adhesive down all the way around the frame. Make sure it sticks nice and snug, just like a good high five.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab a spudger and gently lift the pull tab at the top right corner of the pink adhesive liner until it’s big enough to grab with your fingers. Keep it steady and go slow—patience pays off. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab the pull tab and gently peel off the pink liner from the frame. You'll reveal the secondary blue liners underneath. Easy does it!
Step 40
- Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone, using a sturdy box or a similar object for support. You've got this!
- Now, grab that trusty spudger or use your finger to connect the charging coil press connector, followed by the battery press connector. You're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Set the middle connector cover on top of the wireless charging coil press connector so it hangs out just a bit over the slot for the bottom clip on the logic board.
Step 42
- Gently press the cover down onto the logic board with your finger, ensuring it's seated properly. Then, while keeping pressure, slide the cover upward so that both metal clips snap into their designated spots on the logic board. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 43
- Grab your tweezers and gently position the top of the lower connector cover into its designated slot on the logic board. Nice and easy!
- Now, carefully lay the lower connector cover over the press connector, ensuring it's snugly in place. Almost there!
Tools Used
Step 44
- Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and use it to secure that 1.0mm screw holding the middle connector cover in place.
- Now, take the tri-point Y000 screwdriver again and tighten up the two 1.3mm screws that are keeping the lower connector cover in position.
Tools Used
Step 45
Gently hover the back glass just above the frame, making sure it doesn't touch the adhesive as you carefully peel off the liner along the right edge.
- Grab your tweezers and carefully pull the tabs on the three blue liners to peel them off, revealing the sticky adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Gently hold the back glass above the phone and line it up with the frame. Easy does it—making sure everything fits snugly before moving on. If you need a hand, just schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.
Step 47
- Gently lay the back glass down onto the frame, making sure it sits flush, then press evenly until the clips snap into place.
- Work your way around the edge of the back glass, pressing gently to ensure all clips are engaged and secure.
Step 48
- Fire up your iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun and warm up the edges of the back glass until they feel nice and toasty—think 'fresh pizza' hot, but not 'volcano' hot.
- Give the perimeter of the back glass a solid press to help the adhesive stick. If you’ve got screen vise clamps, now’s their time to shine! Clamp away to lock in that bond. No clamps? No worries—keep going for more ways to secure the glass.
Tools Used
Step 49
Make sure you’re pressing down evenly across your iPhone—don’t forget to work around that camera bump for a solid seal.
No box? No problem. Just skip this step and we’ll show you another way to get it done.
- Got the original box your iPhone came in? Grab the lid and lay it flat on a table or countertop.
- Set your iPhone screen-side-up inside the box lid, making sure the camera bump fits snugly in its little nook.
- Find something about the size of your iPhone but taller than the box’s sides. Stack it right on top of your phone, then pile on some heavy stuff.
- Let the weight do its thing for at least 30 minutes. Lighter weights mean you’ll want to wait longer—overnight is even better if you can swing it.
Step 50
No original box for your iPhone? No worries! Try these three simple steps to evenly press and secure the back glass, even without the box. It’s straightforward and gets the job done. If you need more help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Lay your iPhone screen-side-down on a cozy, flat surface – it deserves a comfy spot!
- Wrap some tape around the back glass to keep it looking sharp and scratch-free.
Step 51
If the coins are a bit thick, you may need to stack a few layers to get the perfect fit.
- Grab some coins or other objects about the same thickness and place a single layer on the tape around the edges of the back glass.
- Spread the coins out evenly, making sure they're at least as thick as the camera bump to keep everything balanced.
Step 52
Coins might leave a mark on the surface below, so steer clear of using anything valuable.
- Grab a stack of your favorite books or some heavy items and gently place them on your iPhone.
- Let those weights work their magic for at least thirty minutes. If you're using lighter items, you might want to give them a bit more time. For the best results, consider leaving them overnight!
Step 53
- Grab your P2 pentalobe screwdriver and tighten up the two 7.8 mm‑long screws on each side of the charging port. Easy does it—just a bit of turn, and you're good to go. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
