iPhone SE 2020 Taptic Engine Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
The Taptic Engine is what gives your iPhone its vibration and haptic feedback mojo. This guide will walk you through removing and replacing the Taptic Engine in an iPhone SE 2020. Heads up: we’ll have you fully detach and remove the display assembly to make things easier to handle and avoid any accidental cable damage. If you’re confident working around the display cables, feel free to skip the steps that disconnect them.
Step 1
Hey there! Before diving in, make sure to drain your iPhone battery to below 25%. Those charged lithium-ion batteries can be a bit dramatic and may catch fire or even explode if they get punctured. Safety first, right?
And don't forget to power off your iPhone before you start taking it apart. Let's keep things cool and calm!
Popping open your iPhone's display will break its waterproof seals, so if you want to keep things splash-proof, grab some new seals before you go any further. If you skip replacing them, just keep your phone away from liquids when you put it back together.
- Start by unscrewing the two tiny 3.5 mm pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone. Keep them safe!
Step 2
Be careful not to push your opening pick in too deep, or you might end up causing some unwanted damage to your device. To keep things safe, take a moment to mark your pick so you know just how far to go.
Feel free to add some flair by marking the other corners of your pick with different measurements—it's like customizing your own repair tool!
If you're looking for a quick hack, try taping a coin to your pick about 3 mm from the tip. It's a handy trick to help you gauge your depth!
- Mark the opening pick 3 mm from the tip using a permanent marker to keep your measurements on point.
Step 3
The upcoming three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not working with the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get the job done.
For full details on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPhone’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try applying some tape to add extra traction.
- Pull that blue handle back—give it a little love tap!—to let the Anti-Clamp arms loose.
- Slide those arms over the left or right edge of your iPhone, like you’re giving it a hug.
- Line up the suction cups close to the bottom edge, just above the home button—one goes on the front, one chills on the back.
- Squeeze the cups together to get some suction going right where you need it.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a 360-degree twist (or just turn it until you see the suction cups start to stretch).
- Make sure the suction cups are perfectly aligned. If they start to slip, simply loosen them a bit and adjust until they’re back on track.
Step 5
Take it easy and don't rush—only go a quarter turn at a time. After each twist, give it a minute to breathe and let the Anti-Clamp work its magic. Patience is key here.
Feel free to get creative with a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but remember, too much heat can put your display and/or internal battery at risk, so take it easy and be cautious.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making enough space, just warm things up a bit more and give the handle a little twist—about a quarter turn should do the trick!
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro.
- Bend the iOpener so it rests comfortably on the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Hang tight for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a cozy little opening gap.
- Gently slide an opening pick into that gap you've created.
- Go ahead and skip the next three steps; you're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 6
The next three steps will guide you on how to gently pry open the screen using a suction cup. Let's get started!
- Warming up the lower edge of your iPhone will help loosen that stubborn adhesive holding the display in place, making it a breeze to open up.
- Grab a hairdryer or whip up an iOpener and give the lower edge a nice warm hug for about 90 seconds. This will do wonders in softening the adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 7
Make sure your suction cup isn’t hanging out over the home button—otherwise it won’t stick properly to the front glass. Keep it clear for a smooth lift!
- Grab a suction cup and gently place it on the lower part of the front panel, just above the home button. Let's get that going!
Step 8
The screen is stuck on tight with some serious watertight adhesive, so opening that first gap takes a bit of muscle. If it’s being stubborn, try heating it up a little more and gently rocking the screen back and forth to loosen the glue until you can slip your tool in.
- Give the suction cup a steady, confident pull—firm but chill—until you see a little gap open up between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap like you're sneaking into a secret club.
Step 9
Heads up: Don’t lift the top edge of the display away from the rear case—those plastic clips are a little delicate and could snap.
- Grab that trusty opening pick and slide it up along the left edge of your phone, starting from the bottom and cruising up towards the volume buttons and silent switch. You're on a mission to break that adhesive holding the display snugly in place!
- Pause just before you reach the top left corner of the display.
Step 10
Watch out for those fragile cables snuggled along the right edge of your iPhone! It's best to avoid inserting your pick here to keep them safe and sound.
Step 11
Keep your pick insertion under 3 mm to avoid messing up those delicate display cables.
- Pop your tool back into the lower right corner of the iPhone and give it a little dance around the corner, then slide it up the right side to break that adhesive free!
Step 12
Careful now—lifting the display up more than 15º could put your ribbon cables in a tough spot. Keep it chill and gentle to avoid any accidental tugs or tears.
- Carefully lift the bottom edge of the display by pulling up on the suction cup with a gentle touch.
- Grab the little tab on the suction cup and pull it off the front panel when you're ready.
Step 13
- Carefully slide an opening pick under the display starting at the top left corner, then glide it along the top edge to gently free the last stubborn bits of adhesive holding things together.
Step 14
- Gently slide the display assembly down a bit, away from the phone’s top edge, to pop loose the clips holding it to the back casing.
Step 15
Hold your horses on fully separating that display! There are still some delicate ribbon cables holding hands with the iPhone's logic board, and we don’t want any breakups here.
- Lift the iPhone open by swinging the screen up from the left side, kind of like cracking open a book.
- Prop the display up against something sturdy so it stays put while you work your magic.
Step 16
- Let's kick things off by removing those four Phillips screws that are holding the lower display cable bracket snugly to the logic board. Here's the scoop on their lengths:
- As you dive into this, make sure to keep a close eye on your screws – they all want to return home during reassembly! Placing a screw in the wrong spot could lead to some serious trouble.
- Now, go ahead and lift off that bracket.
- You've got two screws that are 1.3 mm long, and two that are 2.8 mm long. Keep those handy!
Step 17
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the battery connector right out of its spot on the logic board.
- Carefully bend the battery connector cable a bit away from the logic board so it doesn’t accidentally touch the socket and power up the phone while you’re working on it.
Tools Used
Step 18
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to pop the lower display connector out of its socket.
- When reconnecting connectors like this, press down on one edge until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—if it’s even a bit off, the connector might bend and cause permanent damage.
Tools Used
Step 19
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to unplug that pesky second lower display cable.
Tools Used
Step 20
- First, let’s tackle those three tiny 1.3 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the bracket snug over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Unscrew them with care!
- Now, gently take off the bracket and set it aside.
Step 21
- Grab your trusty spudger and carefully pop loose the connector for the front panel sensor assembly. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Pop off that display assembly like a boss.
- When you’re putting it back together, now’s your moment to swap out the adhesive around the display edges if you’re feeling fancy.
Step 23
- Unscrew the trio holding the bracket by the Taptic Engine:
- One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
- One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
- One 2.9 mm Phillips screw
Step 24
- Take off the bracket with care.
Step 25
This part of the flex cable is held down lightly. If it’s being stubborn, warm it up a bit with an iOpener or hair dryer to loosen the adhesive. That way, you can safely peel the flex cable away without any fuss.
- Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top edge of the speaker to gently separate them.
Tools Used
Step 26
- Grab your spudger and gently pop up the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board. Smooth moves only—no force needed!
Tools Used
Step 27
- Slip an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to keep the socket steady—like giving it a little seatbelt.
- Grab your spudger’s pointy end and pop up the antenna flex cable from its socket. The pick’s still there, holding things down while you work your magic.
- Getting this cable back in can be a little finicky. Use tweezers to line up the connector with its socket, then press straight down with the flat side of your spudger until you hear a satisfying click.
Step 28
- Take out the Wi-Fi diversity antenna with care.
Step 29
If you're in a bind, a small flathead screwdriver can get the job done—just be extra careful it doesn’t slip and cause any unwanted surprises to nearby parts.
The best way to get those standoff screws out is with a trusty standoff screwdriver or bit. Easy does it!
- Unscrew the duo keeping the Taptic Engine in place:
- One Phillips screw, 2.1 mm
- One standoff screw, also 2.1 mm
Step 30
- Grab your spudger and gently pop the antenna cable socket up and away from its connector. Think of it like giving it a little friendly lift—no force needed!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Gently use the spudger's tip to lift and disconnect that Taptic Engine flex cable. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 32
Heads up! The Taptic Engine flex cable might be sticking to the antenna flex cable—gently peel them apart like you're separating two best friends after a long hug.
- Time to put your device back together! Just follow these steps in reverse, and don’t forget to stick that display adhesive back on before you set the display in place. Easy peasy!
- Got some old gadgets lying around? Give them a second life by taking them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Mother Earth will thank you!
- If things didn’t go quite as smoothly as you hoped, don’t fret! Swing by our iPhone SE 2020 Answers community for some troubleshooting wizardry. And remember, if you're feeling stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
