iPhone SE 2022 LCD and Digitizer Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 45 Steps
To keep your Touch ID working like a charm, make sure to move the original home/Touch ID sensor over to your new screen with some gentle care.
Follow this step-by-step guide to swap out the cracked or busted front panel—AKA the LCD and digitizer assembly—on your iPhone SE 2022. This walkthrough is based on the A2783 (international) model. If your phone’s frame is bent or warped, it’s best to replace it first to ensure the new screen fits perfectly and doesn’t get damaged by uneven pressure. You’ll be replacing just the LCD and digitizer assembly here, which means transferring several parts from your original screen to the new one, like the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and the home button assembly. Heads up: to keep Touch ID working, you must carefully move the original home button and Touch ID sensor to the new display—the home button is paired to your logic board and swapping it out will disable Touch ID. Also, if you skip replacing the adhesive seals when putting everything back together, your phone will work fine but might lose its water resistance. You’ll need fresh adhesive to stick everything back properly. If any step feels tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- First things first—power down your phone before you start taking it apart. Trust us, your phone likes naps during surgery.
- Next up, grab your trusty screwdriver and remove those two 3.4 mm P2 pentalobe screws chilling at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
Step 2
If you push the opening pick in too deep, you might accidentally hurt your device. To avoid this, mark your pick so you know exactly how far to go.
Feel free to mark the other corners of your pick with different depths for extra control.
Another neat trick is taping a coin to your pick about 3 mm from the tip to keep things precise.
- Grab your opening pick and measure 3 mm from the tip. Use a permanent marker to make a small mark. This will help you stay on track and make the process smoother!
Step 3
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any pesky glass bits that might decide to escape during your repair adventure!
If your iPhone's screen is cracked, it's a good idea to tape over the glass. This will help prevent further breakage and avoid any accidental cuts while you're working on it.
If nothing else works, try supergluing the suction cup to the screen for a better grip.
- Start by laying down overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPhone's screen, covering the whole face. Make sure to cover every inch for a smooth repair!
- If the suction cup doesn't want to stick during the next steps, no worries—just fold a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape works great!) into a handle, and use that to lift the screen. It's a simple workaround that gets the job done!
Step 4
Check out the next three steps to see how the Anti-Clamp works its magic—a handy tool we whipped up to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? Skip ahead three steps for the alternate route.
For a full rundown on mastering the Anti-Clamp, take a peek at this guide.
If your iPhone's surface is a little too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grab, slap on some tape for instant grip—problem solved.
- Give that blue handle a good pull back to free the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Gently slide those arms around the left or right edge of your iPhone.
- Place the suction cups just above the home button at the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front and one on the back.
- Squeeze those cups together to create a solid grip on your target area.
Step 5
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place. It's like a little handshake, but for your repair!
- Now, twist that handle 360 degrees clockwise (or until the suction cups start stretching out). You’ve got this!
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—they should stay in line. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit, realign, and lock it back in. Easy fix!
Step 6
Turn the crank just a quarter at a time and give it a minute between moves. Let the Anti-Clamp handle the heavy lifting—you've got this.
You can also bring some heat to the party with a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but watch out! Too much heat can mess with your display or internal battery, so handle with care.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you the gap you need, crank up the heat a bit more and give that handle a quarter turn.
- Warm up an iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
- Bend the iOpener so it rests along the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Hold tight for one minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a gap.
- Gently tuck an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel—avoid the screen itself.
- Skip the next two steps.
Step 7
If you're rocking a suction handle, just follow the next couple of steps to gently ease that rear glass loose.
You can also grab a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up a bit, but take it easy—too much heat can mess with the display and battery.
- Grab an iOpener and place it on the screen for about two minutes to help soften up that stubborn adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 8
If you’re having a hard time popping open a gap, try heating up the bottom half of the screen a bit more to loosen that adhesive. Just make sure to follow the iOpener instructions so you don’t get too toasty!
- Attach a suction handle to the lower part of the front panel, getting as close to the home button as you can.
- Gently pull up on the front panel with the suction handle to create a little opening between the front panel and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap beneath the plastic bezel of the screen.
Tools Used
Step 9
- Gently slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to carefully cut through the front panel adhesive.
- Pop in a second opening pick along the bottom edge of your phone to keep things steady.
- Now, slide that pick over to the bottom left corner to slice through the remaining adhesive.
- Keep both picks in place to stop the adhesive from sticking back together while you work.
Step 10
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don't go yanking at the top edge of the display, okay? It's snugly held in by some plastic clips that like to be left alone—break them and you might be in for a surprise!
If the adhesive feels tough to slice through, it’s probably cooled off. Warm it back up by applying your iOpener for a couple of minutes to get things moving again.
- Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left side of your phone to cut through that stubborn adhesive.
- Stop just before you hit the top left corner of the screen. Nice and easy, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 11
Be careful not to push your pick more than 3 mm in, or you might accidentally harm some delicate internals.
- Take your bottom-right opening pick and gently slide it along the right side of your phone. This will help you cut through the adhesive like a pro.
- Stop just shy of the top-right corner of the display. You're doing great—keep it up!
Step 12
Keep the display tilt to a maximum of 15º to avoid putting stress on those delicate ribbon cables that link the display. We want to keep everything in tip-top shape!
- Say goodbye to those opening picks! It's time to lift the display.
- With a gentle tug on the suction handle, raise the bottom edge of the display like a pro.
- Now, let's bid farewell to the suction handle. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 13
- Gently slide an opening pick beneath the top left corner of the display. Let's get that going!
- Now, glide that pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to cut through any leftover adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 14
- Gently slide the display assembly down toward the charging port just a bit to pop those clips free from the rear case. You've got this!
Step 15
Hold off on pulling the display completely away from the phone just yet—there are still some delicate ribbon cables dancing between it and the logic board!
- Gently flip the phone open, swinging the display up from the left side like you’re opening a hardcover book.
- Prop the display up against something sturdy so it stays put while you work your magic.
Step 16
- Let's kick things off by unscrewing the four Phillips screws that are holding down the lower display cable bracket. It's like a little game of hide and seek with your screws!
- As you go through this guide, make sure to keep a close eye on your screws so that each one finds its way back home during reassembly. Putting a screw in the wrong spot could lead to some serious drama.
- Two screws are 1.2 mm long, and two are 2.8 mm long. Remember their sizes as you gather them up!
Step 17
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift off the lower display cable bracket like a pro!
Tools Used
Step 18
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pry the battery connector straight up to unplug it from its socket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 19
The display and digitizer cables are stacked like pancakes—don’t flip them all at once! Start by unplugging the top cable, then move on to the next. Trying to disconnect both together is a shortcut to trouble.
- Grab the pointy end of your trusty spudger and gently pry the bottom two display cables straight up to disconnect them from their sockets.
- When it's time to reconnect, press down on one side of the connector until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle—if the connector isn’t perfectly aligned, it might bend and cause permanent damage.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.2 mm screws holding down the front sensor assembly bracket.
Step 21
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift out the front sensor assembly bracket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its sharp end to gently pry the front sensor assembly connector straight up from its socket. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Carefully take off the display assembly to get things rolling.
Step 24
- Let's get this party started! First up, take out those four screws holding the home/Touch ID sensor bracket in place:
- Three of those tiny 1.2 mm-long Y000 screws
- And don't forget the one little 1.1 mm-long Y000 screw
Step 25
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the home/Touch ID sensor bracket with some smooth moves.
Tools Used
Step 26
If the whole connector starts to lift up without unplugging, gently press down on the cable at the top edge using the flat end of a spudger, while carefully prying up the left edge of the connector. Take it slow and steady—damaging the cable or connector here could permanently disable the sensor.
- Grab your opening tool and gently pop up the left side of the home/Touch ID sensor cable connector to unplug it from its socket—easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 27
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up—just don't get too wild with the heat, or your phone's display and battery might throw a fit. Keep it toasty, not roast-y!
Step 28
Watch out for the cable connector here—it's hanging out with the home/Touch ID sensor cable, and yanking it can cause a real mess. Gently fold the connector up toward the selfie camera, keeping it clear of those delicate cables.
- Gently slide an opening pick under the home/Touch ID sensor cable to carefully separate it from the back of the display panel. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 29
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the home/Touch ID sensor assembly out, pulling it up through the front of the display. Yes, you’re basically a tech ninja.
- When putting things back together, slide the cable through the hole in the front of the display, just like you’re threading a needle—tech edition.
- Replacement parts might show up with some extra Y000 screws hanging out near the Home Button. Kick out any unnecessary screws so you can pop the home button bracket back in place.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Loosen the trio of screws holding down the earpiece speaker bracket:
- Two Phillips screws, each 2.6 mm long
- One Phillips screw, 1.6 mm long
Step 31
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift out the earpiece speaker bracket—nice and easy, no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 32
Be gentle with the front camera cable while you're working—no need to pull or strain it!
- Grab your tweezers and gently pop the front-facing camera out of its socket. Swing it over to the left like you're clearing the stage, making way for the earpiece speaker.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Remove the two screws holding the earpiece speaker in place:
- Grab your Phillips and take out the short 1.8 mm screw.
- Next, unscrew the slightly longer 2.3 mm Phillips screw.
Step 34
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift the earpiece speaker out. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Take that heated iOpener and place it on the top edge of the screen. This will help loosen up the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place. Let it sit there for a solid 2 minutes to do its magic!
Tools Used
Step 36
Make sure to slide your tool all the way underneath the sensor for a smooth pry. If you only push against the cable, the sensor might pop off and you'll be looking at a replacement. But hey, if you're swapping out the sensor or cable assembly anyway, no worries!
- Gently use the pointed end of a spudger to ease the proximity sensor out from its little home on the front panel. Take it slow and steady!
Tools Used
Step 37
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pop the ambient light sensor out from its snug spot on the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 38
If the cable is being stubborn and won’t separate from the front panel, pop a heated iOpener back on the top edge of the screen to soften that adhesive some more. Keep it there for at least a minute and try again!
- Gently slide an opening pick under the front camera and sensor cable assembly to loosen it from the front panel. Take your time and don’t rush – it’ll pop free with a little patience.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab your tweezers and carefully lift out the front camera and sensor assembly cable.
Tools Used
Step 40
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.1 mm Y000 screws holding the LCD and digitizer brackets in place. Keep them safe!
Step 41
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the top LCD and digitizer bracket—steady hands win the game here!
Step 42
- Grab an iOpener and stick it onto the bottom LCD and digitizer bracket. Let it hang out there for at least two minutes to soften up that stubborn adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 43
Beneath the bracket, the LCD and digitizer cable fans out into five delicate strands. Take it slow and steady when lifting the bracket off the screen to keep them all intact!
- Gently slide an opening pick under the right edge of the LCD and digitizer bracket, giving it just the right nudge to separate it from the screen.
Step 44
- Gently slide an opening pick under the left edge of the LCD and digitizer bracket to carefully detach it from the screen. Take your time—this step is key to getting everything in place smoothly!
Step 45
- Before sealing everything back up, it’s always a good idea to power on your device and give it a quick test to make sure everything's working like it should.
- To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. It's like a puzzle, but with fewer pieces!
- For the best hold, use a custom-cut double-sided tape on the frame and then place the screen back exactly where it was. It’s like giving your device a new sticky hug.
- When you're done, make sure to dispose of any e-waste properly! Look for an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to give your old parts a good home.
- Things not going as smoothly as expected? Don’t worry! Try troubleshooting the issue or reach out to our Answers community for extra tips and tricks.
