iPhone X Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 48 Steps
iPhone batteries wear out over time and can’t hold a full charge like they used to. Apple rates their batteries to maintain 80% capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which usually means about 18-24 months of regular use. When the battery's chemistry starts to break down, your iPhone might slow down a bit. This guide will walk you through swapping out your battery to get your iPhone back to its best self. If you notice your battery is swollen, be sure to handle it carefully. We’ll completely detach the display and remove the lower speaker and Taptic Engine to make it easier to get to the battery’s sticky strips. After you’re done, for the best results, charge your new battery to 100%, keep it charging for at least two more hours, then use your iPhone until it powers off from low battery, and finally, charge it uninterrupted back to 100%.
Step 1
Before diving in, make sure to drain your iPhone battery below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a fire hazard (not in a good way) if it gets punctured. Better safe than sorry!
Cracking open your iPhone’s display will break those waterproof seals, so if you want to keep your phone splash-proof, grab some fresh seals before you move on. Skipping the seals? Just keep your phone away from water after you put it back together.
- First things first, power down your iPhone. It's always good to be safe before you start getting hands-on.
- Now, grab your pentalobe screwdriver and unscrew the two 6.9 mm screws at the bottom edge. Easy, right?
- If those screws are looking a bit worse for wear, no worries! Just swap them out with new ones and you're good to go.
Step 2
Be careful not to push your opening pick in too deep—it could cause some damage. To avoid that, mark the pick at the right spot and keep your device safe.
Feel free to mark other corners of the pick with different measurements to keep it precise.
If you prefer, you can tape a coin 3mm from the tip of the pick to help guide the way.
- Grab your opening pick and measure about 3mm from the tip. Use a permanent marker to make a clear mark – it's like giving your pick a little guideline for the job ahead.
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any sneaky glass shards that might decide to take flight during the repair.
Cracked screen? Throw some tape over that glass to keep the shards in check and your fingers safe while you work your magic.
If that suction cup refuses to stick, break out the superglue and stick it right on the screen.
- Cover the iPhone screen completely by laying overlapping strips of clear packing tape over it.
- If the suction cup refuses to stick in the upcoming steps, no worries—grab a sturdy piece of tape like duct tape, fold it into a little handle, and use that to lift the screen instead.
Step 4
Next up, we’ve got the Anti-Clamp – our handy little tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for another method.
For a full walkthrough on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your device’s surface is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grab onto, a bit of tape can do the trick to give it a little extra grip.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
- Slide the arms onto either the left or right side of your iPhone.
- Place the suction cups near the bottom edge—one on the front and one on the back.
- Press the cups together to create a good seal with the phone.
Step 5
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise twist, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 6
Take it easy and only tighten a quarter turn at a time. Give it a minute to settle between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp do its thing and take your time. Patience is key!
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up, but don’t go wild—too much heat can mess with your screen or battery. Keep it chill (well, not literally).
If your Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough room to work, add a little more heat to the spot and give the handle a quarter turn for some extra oomph.
- Warm up an iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
- Bend the iOpener so it rests neatly along the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Hang tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen and create a little opening gap.
- Carefully slip an opening pick beneath the screen and the plastic bezel — avoid going under the screen itself.
- Skip the next three steps.
Tools Used
Step 7
If you're using a hairdryer or heat gun, remember: less is more! Too much heat can cause some serious screen damage. Keep it cool and steady!
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone loosens up the sticky stuff holding the screen, making it way smoother to pop open.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener and gently warm the bottom edge of your iPhone for about a minute to loosen the adhesive hiding underneath.
Tools Used
Step 8
- Grab your single suction handle and stick it to the bottom edge of the phone, steering clear of that tricky curved glass area.
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive holding the screen in place is pretty tough, so getting that first gap open will take a bit of muscle. If you're struggling, no worries! Just add a bit more heat and gently wiggle the screen up and down. This will help loosen the adhesive enough to slide your tool in and make some progress. Patience is key, but you've got this!
- Gently pull up on the suction cup with steady, consistent pressure to make a small gap between the screen and the frame. Patience is key!
- Carefully slide an opening pick into the gap beneath the screen's plastic bezel, avoiding the screen itself. Take it slow and steady!
Step 10
Be careful not to insert your pick more than 3 mm—anything further might cause some serious damage to the inner parts.
- Take the opening pick and carefully slide it around the lower left corner, then move it up the left edge of the iPhone. This will gently slice through the adhesive, letting you loosen the display with ease.
Step 11
Watch out! There are some sensitive cables hanging out along the right edge of your iPhone. Steer clear of inserting your pick here, or you might end up giving those cables a bad day.
Step 12
Keep your pick under 3 mm to avoid messing with the display cables. A little goes a long way!
- Slide your pick back in at the bottom of the iPhone and gently glide it up the right side to keep peeling away that adhesive like a pro!
Step 13
Take it slow and steady—those clips are delicate and can snap if you get too rough.
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—to avoid messing with the front panel sensor array.
Up top, the display is held down by both glue and some stubborn clips ready to test your patience.
- Gently work your opening pick around the top corner of the display. While you're at it, give the display a gentle wiggle, pulling it towards the Lightning port as you go.
- Now, slide the pick to the other corner and keep cutting through any leftover adhesive that's still holding the display in place.
Step 14
- Give the little tab on the suction cup a gentle tug and lift it off the front panel—easy does it!
Step 15
Hold off on fully separating the display just yet – those delicate ribbon cables are still connecting it to the logic board, so take your time.
Just like in the picture, make sure the frame comes off with the display and doesn't get stuck in the device. We don't want any accidental hang-ups!
- Start by gently lifting the iPhone's display from the left side, like you’re opening a book. Easy does it!
- Once the display is lifted, prop it up carefully so it stays in place while you work your magic on the phone.
- When putting everything back together, gently lay the display in place. Align the clips along the top edge, then press the top edge into position before snapping the rest of the display down. If it’s not snapping in smoothly, take a moment to check the clips around the display – they might be a little bent and just need a tiny adjustment.
Step 16
As you work on your iPhone, keep an eye on each screw and make sure it gets back to its original spot—your phone likes things just the way they were!
- Take out the five Y000 screws holding down the logic board connector bracket. Here’s the lineup:
- Three screws at 1.1 mm — small but mighty
- One screw at 3.1 mm — a bit longer, handle with care
- One screw at 3.7 mm — the longest of the bunch, don’t lose it!
Step 17
The bracket might be giving a little clingy vibe. Just give it a gentle yet firm lift to break the bond and set it free.
- Take off the bracket. It's a simple step but crucial for what's coming next!
- Before sealing everything up, take a moment to power on your iPhone and give it a quick test. Make sure all the features are working like they should. Just don't forget to power it down completely before moving forward—safety first!
Step 18
Be careful not to mess up the black silicone seal around this and other board connections. These little seals are like the gadget’s raincoat, keeping water and dust out to protect the good stuff inside.
- Grab a spudger or, if you're feeling adventurous, a clean fingernail, and gently pry the battery connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board.
- Give that connector a little bend away from the logic board to keep it from accidentally reconnecting and powering up your device while you're in the zone fixing things.
Tools Used
Step 19
- Grab your trusty spudger or just your fingernail and gently pry away that front panel sensor assembly connector. It's like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Hey, time to disconnect!'
Tools Used
Step 20
- Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to unplug the OLED panel cable connector.
- When reconnecting press-fit connectors like this one, line it up carefully and press down on one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle to keep those pins happy and prevent any damage.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the digitizer cable connector up from its cozy little socket. It can be a bit shy, so give it some love!
- Now, this connector likes to play hide and seek, making reconnecting a tiny challenge. Take your time to align it just right, and when you're ready, give it a gentle press with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You'll know it's happy when you hear that satisfying click.
- If your screen is feeling a bit unresponsive after your repair adventure, no worries! Just disconnect the battery and give that connector another try. Make sure it clicks into place like it's meant to, and check for any dust bunnies or other sneaky obstructions in the socket.
Tools Used
Step 22
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is just chilling in place with a light adhesive. No need to stress, it's not stuck too hard, so it should come off with a little patience.
- Gently lift the cable until the adhesive lets go without any fuss.
Step 23
- Gently lift the display assembly off. Don't rush, take your time with this one.
- When putting it all back together, stop for a moment if you're thinking of swapping out the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display. It's a nice touch for added durability!
Step 24
Watch out for the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of your iPhone—no need to give them a high-five!
- Let's get those screws out! Start by removing the seven screws that hold the bracket beneath the Taptic Engine and speaker in place:
- Two Y000 1.9 mm screws - they’re a bit shy, but you got this!
- One Y000 1.2 mm screw - just one, so it won’t take long!
- One Y000 1.6 mm screw - a little longer, but still a piece of cake!
- One Phillips 2.4 mm screw - this one’s got a bit of flair!
- One Phillips 1.7 mm screw - just a tad more, and you’re almost there!
- One Phillips 1.5 mm screw - the final stretch, you’re doing great!
Step 25
- Gently lift the bracket starting from the edge closest to the battery. No need to yank it off completely, as it's still tethered by a tiny flex cable.
Step 26
- While keeping the bracket out of the way, gently use the pointed tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the flex cable hiding underneath.
Tools Used
Step 27
- First, go ahead and take off that bracket.
Step 28
- Unscrew the 2.1 mm Y000 screw that’s holding the speaker connector cover in place. You've got this!
Step 29
- Gently lift off the speaker connector cover to get things moving.
Step 30
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the speaker connector.
Tools Used
Step 31
Careful when prying up the speaker—don’t go nicking the flex cable you just unplugged! If needed, gently move it aside so the speaker can slide out smoothly.
- Slide a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, right where it meets the iPhone's case.
- Carefully pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker—easy does it!
- When putting the speaker back, double-check that the flex cable is sitting nicely and isn’t caught under the speaker.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Grab the speaker by its edges and gently wiggle it side to side. This will help loosen the adhesive that's keeping it snug against the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Now, carefully pull the speaker away from the iPhone's bottom edge until you hear that satisfying pop of the adhesive gasket breaking free!
Step 33
- Lift out the speaker and give it a gentle wave goodbye.
Step 34
Keep your fingers on the outer edges of the liner to dodge that sticky adhesive—no accidental glue jobs here!
- Time to say goodbye to that old speaker gasket! It's not coming back, so let's get it replaced during reassembly.
- Grab those tweezers and gently peel away every last bit of the old gasket from both the frame and the speaker.
- Now, let's give it a good clean! Use a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away all the sticky residue left behind by the old gasket.
- Before we get the new gasket in place, check its orientation on the bottom of the speaker. Remember, the big cutout on the gasket should fit around the speaker grille mesh.
- Carefully remove the larger, clear liner from the gasket, then use those tweezers to place the gasket right where it needs to go on the bottom of the speaker.
- Time to secure that gasket! Use your fingers or a spudger to press it down firmly so the adhesive does its job.
- Finally, peel off the remaining liner and position the speaker back in place, ensuring the speaker connector is snugly where it should be and not stuck underneath.
Step 35
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the Taptic Engine in place.
Step 36
- Grab your spudger and gently lift up the Taptic Engine flex cable from its socket—it should pop right out.
Tools Used
Step 37
- Carefully take out the Taptic Engine.
Step 38
The iPhone X's battery is held in place on the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one at the top cell and three along the bottom, ready to be gently freed.
- Each strip of adhesive sports a black pull-tab at one end, gently stuck to the battery's side edge—just a little pull and you're set!
Step 39
Avoid poking the battery with sharp tools—nobody wants a battery that leaks funky chemicals or decides to throw a fire party!
Each tab has a tiny loop in the center. If you're struggling to grab it, just slip a tool through the loop for some extra help.
- Gently peel away the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. You've got this!
Step 40
Be careful not to mess up the speaker cable connector located just below the center adhesive tab. It's a little tricky, but you've got this!
- Do the same for the other two adhesive tabs on the bottom edge of the battery, and they'll separate just like the first ones.
Step 41
If the strips break, don't sweat it! They don’t always go as planned. Keep going and check out the next steps for dealing with broken strips.
In these next steps, you'll gently pull each tab to gradually stretch the adhesive holding the battery down. This clever stretch-release adhesive loses its grip as you stretch it, coming right out in your hand so you can easily lift the battery free.
- Want to boost your chances of a smooth repair? Here's how:
- If a strip breaks off under the battery and you can't retrieve it, don't sweat it. Just move on to the next strip and keep following the steps below.
- Remember, don't press the battery. Gently hold the iPhone by its sides to keep things steady.
- As you pull, keep those strips flat and wrinkle-free. It makes a difference!
- Go slow and steady – stretch each strip for about 15-30 seconds to give it time to separate properly.
- Pull at a slight angle to avoid snagging that strip along the bottom edge of the battery.
Step 42
If some adhesive strips snap and hide under the battery like ninjas, try to fish out the leftovers before moving on with the next steps.
The strip can stretch quite a bit, so don't be afraid to pull it a few times. If it feels like it's not budging, just grab it closer to the battery and keep going.
If the adhesive tabs snap, no worries! Use your fingers or some tweezers to fish out the remaining adhesive, then keep pulling until it's free.
- Take one of those nifty outer battery adhesive tabs and gently tug it away from the battery, heading towards the bottom of your iPhone.
- Keep that steady pull going, maintaining a nice, even tension on the strip until it gracefully slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 43
- Go ahead and tackle the opposite side by repeating the previous step, and save the center strip for last. You've got this!
Step 44
- Lift out the center strip, but keep it chill—don't let it catch on the speaker flex cable.
Step 45
Heads up! The last pull tab is super close to the Face ID hardware. If it gets damaged, only Apple can fix Face ID, so take it slow and steady here.
- Gently peel back the pull tab on the last adhesive strip located at the top edge of the upper battery cell.
Step 46
As you separate the strip from the iPhone, keep your hand over the battery to hold it in place. But, remember, no need to press down on the battery—it could put too much stress on the adhesive strip and cause it to break off.
Don't try to force the battery out, even if you're feeling a bit stubborn! A few more drops of alcohol should help weaken the adhesive if needed. Just don’t use your pry tool to poke or bend the battery—it’s not a good idea!
Watch out for the ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil directly under the battery. Give them some space so you don't accidentally damage them.
If the sticky stuff under the battery snaps and you can't grab it, drip a few drops of high-powered (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery where the stubborn strip is hiding.
Ready for more ways to convince the battery to let go? Head to the next step below.
- Carefully peel off that last adhesive strip—it’s the final countdown!
- If you managed to get all four strips off like a pro, you can skip ahead to the next step.
- Now, give that alcohol solution about a minute to work its magic on the adhesive. Once you’re ready, use the flat end of a spudger to gently nudge the battery up and out.
Tools Used
Step 47
Using pry tools to lift out the battery? Go slow and gentle—there are delicate ribbon cables and a wireless charging coil lounging right underneath. Treat them with respect or they’ll throw a tantrum.
Warm up the iPhone until the back feels a little too toasty for comfort, but don’t get wild with the heat—nobody wants a surprise battery barbecue.
- Did one of those pesky adhesive strips break off and leave your battery glued to the rear case? No worries! Get your iOpener ready or grab a hair dryer and warm up the rear case right behind that stubborn battery.
- Now, flip your iPhone back over and grab a sturdy piece of string—something like dental floss or a thin guitar string works wonders. Slide it underneath the battery like a pro.
- With the string in place, gently pull it back and forth in a sawing motion all along the battery's length to break that adhesive bond. Take your time; this might require a bit of patience since the adhesive likes to hold on tight, but don’t fret—it will loosen up! Just be careful not to bend or harm the battery.
- To keep your fingers safe, wrap the ends of the string around a cloth or throw on some gloves. Safety first, right?
Tools Used
Step 48
- Give your new part a once-over compared to the old one—don't forget to swap any leftover bits or peel off those pesky adhesive backings before you dive into the installation!
- Time to put it all back together! Just retrace your steps like a pro.
- Got some e-waste? Be a hero and take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Things didn't go as smoothly as you'd hoped? No worries! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting support. And remember, if you're feeling a bit stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
