iPhone X Charging Pad / Volume Button Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 73 Steps
Both the wireless charging pad and button cable are sold separately, but soldering them together is a bit of a tricky dance—and one wrong move can mess up the button cable. Save yourself the headache and grab the replacement part with both pieces already connected. Swapping out this assembly can kick those stuck or stubborn volume buttons back into action, get that silent switch working again, and boost your wireless charging to its full potential.
Step 1
- Take your trusty SIM card eject tool (or a paperclip if you're feeling resourceful) and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray, right next to the side button of your iPhone.
- Give it a firm, but friendly push to pop out the tray. No need for a full-on wrestling match—just a good, steady press.
Tools Used
Step 2
The SIM card should slide out of the tray pretty easily. No need to wrestle with it!
- Pop out the SIM card tray from your iPhone with care.
- When putting the SIM card back in, double-check it’s lined up just right with the tray.
- There’s a slim rubber gasket hugging the SIM tray that keeps water and dust out. If this little guy is torn or missing, swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your iPhone safe and sound.
Step 3
Give your iPhone battery a chill pill and let it drop below 25% before starting. Trust us—lithium-ion batteries can get dramatic if poked, and nobody wants fireworks during a repair.
Opening up your iPhone's display? Just a heads up, you'll be breaking those waterproof seals! Make sure you have some replacements on hand before diving deeper, or be extra cautious about keeping it away from liquids if you decide to put everything back together without swapping those seals out.
- Make sure your iPhone is completely powered off before you start taking it apart.
- Unscrew the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- If those screws look worn out or stripped, go ahead and swap them out with new ones.
Step 4
Be careful not to push the opening pick in too deep, as it could harm your device. Take a moment to mark your pick to keep everything safe and sound!
Feel free to add some flair by marking the other corners of the pick with unique measurements.
If you're looking for a quick hack, try taping a coin about 3 mm from the tip of the pick. It's a fun little trick!
- Grab your opening pick and mark a spot 3 mm from the tip with a permanent marker to keep things precise.
Step 5
Pop on those safety glasses—nobody wants a surprise glass confetti moment while fixing things up.
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Keep those pesky shards in check and avoid any accidental ouchies by taping over the glass before you start your repair.
If the suction cup refuses to stick, no worries — a little superglue can help it grip the screen better.
- Cover the iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, making sure the whole surface is sealed up. Think of it as giving your phone a shiny raincoat.
- If the suction cup refuses to cooperate in the next step, grab some strong tape (duct tape works wonders), fold it into a handle, and use that to lift the screen instead. Sometimes you just have to improvise!
Step 6
In the next three steps, we're going to introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little gadget designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you don’t have the Anti-Clamp handy, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for another method.
For a detailed walkthrough on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPhone's surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a little tape can work wonders! Just stick some on to create a non-slip surface.
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull backwards—this unlocks the Anti-Clamp’s arms and gets things rolling.
- Slide those arms smoothly over the left or right edge of your iPhone. No need to stress, just pick a side.
- Line up the suction cups near the bottom edge—one goes on the front, one on the back. Like a tag team ready for action.
- Squeeze the cups together to get a good suction grip right where you want it. That’s the magic touch!
Step 7
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms in place!
- Now, twist the handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups start to stretch out. You got this!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they’re holding hands. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them up a bit and guide those arms back into alignment.
Step 8
Turn no more than a quarter turn at a time, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and a bit of patience do their magic!
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can do the trick, but don’t go full volcano—too much heat can mess with your display or battery. Easy does it!
If the Anti-Clamp just isn’t cutting it, hit the spot with a bit more heat and give the handle a quarter turn for extra oomph.
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp. Give it a little hug.
- Fold the iOpener so it cozies up to the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Hang tight for a minute, letting the adhesive loosen up and an opening gap show itself.
- Slip an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel—aim for the gap, not the screen itself.
- Go ahead and skip the next three steps. You’re cruising!
Tools Used
Step 9
If you're using a hairdryer or heat gun, remember to keep it cool—too much heat can turn your screen into a sad, cracked mess!
Warming up the lower edge of your iPhone can help loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the display in place, making it a breeze to pop open.
- Time to loosen up that glue! Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener, and warm up the lower edge of your iPhone for about a minute. This helps soften the adhesive so things come apart a lot smoother.
Tools Used
Step 10
- Stick the suction handle near the bottom edge of your phone—just keep clear of the curvy part of the glass.
Tools Used
Step 11
The adhesive sealing the screen is super strong, so popping open that first gap takes some serious muscle. If it’s being stubborn, crank up the heat a bit and gently rock the screen back and forth to soften the glue—once you get a little wiggle room, your tool will slide right in.
- Give that suction cup a confident tug—steady and firm—to open up a tiny gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that space, aiming for the plastic bezel under the screen (not the screen itself).
Step 12
Keep your pick to a maximum of 3 mm—going deeper could mean a surprise visit to your internal components!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and then up along the left edge, carefully cutting through the adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck in place.
Step 13
Heads up! There are some fragile cables running along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick in there, or you might accidentally mess up those delicate connections.
Step 14
Keep your pick to a maximum depth of 3 mm to avoid giving those delicate display cables a bad day!
- Slide your pick back into the bottom edge of the iPhone and gently glide it up the right side to keep loosening that adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 15
Handle those clips with care, or they might just say 'snap'! Take your time and keep it chill.
Only slide your pick in about 3 mm—going deeper could give the front panel sensor a bad day!
The top edge of the display is held in place with a combo of glue and clips, so take your time popping it loose!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display while carefully pulling or wiggling the display downward toward the Lightning port.
- Then, move the pick to the opposite corner and slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place.
Step 16
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel. Easy does it!
Step 17
Hold up! Don't try to completely separate the display just yet—there are some delicate ribbon cables still hanging on to the logic board. Give them some love and attention.
Like in the picture, make sure the display comes off smoothly with the frame. You don't want the frame to get stuck inside the device—be gentle!
- To kick things off, gently swing the display up from the left side, just like you're opening a book to your favorite chapter.
- Give the display a little lean against something sturdy to keep it upright while you work your magic on the phone.
- When it’s time to put everything back together, carefully position the display, align those clips at the top edge, and give it a gentle press to snap the top edge into place. If it’s feeling a bit stubborn and doesn’t click easily, take a moment to check the clips around the display's perimeter and make sure they're not bent out of shape.
Step 18
As you work through the repair, be sure to keep track of every screw and place it back exactly where it belongs. This will help you avoid any mishaps and ensure your iPhone stays in top shape. We’re all about keeping things smooth and simple!
- Take out the five Y000 screws that hold down the logic board connector bracket. Here's the lineup of sizes:
- Three screws at 1.1 mm
- One screw at 3.1 mm
- One screw at 3.7 mm
Step 19
The bracket might be sticking a bit, so give it a gentle yet firm lift to coax it free.
- First things first, let's take off that bracket! You've got this. Once you're done, here's a little tip: before sealing up your iPhone, why not power it on and check if everything's working like a charm? Just remember to turn it off completely before diving back into the repair. Keep up the great work!
Step 20
Careful not to mess up the black silicone seal around this and other board connectors. These little guys are the unsung heroes, keeping water and dust out like champs.
- Grab a spudger or use your fingernail to gently pop the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Go slow and steady—no need to rush the handshake.
- Tilt the connector just a bit away from the logic board, so it doesn’t sneak back into the socket and surprise your phone with power mid-repair.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Gently pry open the front panel sensor assembly connector using the tip of a spudger or your trusty fingernail. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Grab your trusty spudger or even your fingernail to gently wiggle free that OLED panel cable connector. Be gentle, we don't want any drama here!
- When it's time to reconnect, just align those connectors like a pro! Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no middle pressing! If you get them out of line, those little pins can get bent and we definitely don't want that. Keep it cool and steady!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the digitizer cable connector up from its snug little home.
- This connector likes to play hide and seek, so take your time lining it up just right. Once you’ve got it aligned, give it a gentle press with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other. You'll know it's in when you hear that satisfying click!
- If your screen decides to be a bit moody and doesn’t respond to touch after all this, no worries! Just disconnect the battery, reseat the connector, and make sure it clicks back into place without any dust bunnies or obstructions hanging around.
Tools Used
Step 24
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is gently stuck down—think of it like a polite little sticker.
- Gently lift the cable just enough to break the adhesive bond without causing any damage.
Step 25
- Lift off the display assembly like you’re unveiling a masterpiece.
- If you want to keep your device waterproof, this is your chance to swap out the adhesive around the edges before putting things back together.
Step 26
Watch your step around those three rows of grounding pads at the bottom of the iPhone—let's keep those fingers clear and out of trouble!
- Let's tackle those seven screws holding down the bracket beneath the Taptic Engine and speaker:
- Two Y000 1.9 mm screws – they're the dynamic duo!
- One Y000 1.2 mm screw – the trusty sidekick!
- One Y000 1.6 mm screw – a reliable partner!
- One Phillips 2.4 mm screw – the big guy!
- One Phillips 1.7 mm screw – the medium-sized hero!
- One Phillips 1.5 mm screw – the little champion!
Step 27
- Gently lift the bracket starting at the edge closest to the battery. Don’t pull it all the way off just yet — it’s still hanging on by a tiny flex cable.
Step 28
- While keeping the bracket out of your way, grab a spudger and gently lift up to disconnect that sneaky flex cable hiding underneath.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Take out the bracket and set it aside—don't worry, it doesn't bite!
Step 30
- Unscrew the 2.1 mm Y000 screw that's holding down the speaker connector cover. You've got this!
Step 31
- Pop off the cover that guards the speaker connector!
Step 32
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and unplug the speaker connector with care.
Tools Used
Step 33
As you lift the speaker, watch out for the flex cable you just unplugged—it’s a bit of a drama queen if you bump it. You can gently nudge it aside to make space for the speaker to exit gracefully.
- Slide a spudger gently under the top edge of the speaker right where the iPhone’s case ends.
- Carefully lift and pry up the top part of the speaker—easy does it!
- When putting the speaker back in place, double-check the flex cable’s position so it doesn’t get stuck under the speaker.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grab that speaker by its sides and give it a little wiggle from side to side to break the adhesive that's holding it snug against the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Gently pull the speaker away from the bottom edge until you hear that satisfying pop of the adhesive gasket letting go.
Step 35
- Lift out the speaker and set it aside for now.
Step 36
Keep your paws on the liner’s outer edges—nobody wants sticky fingers from the adhesive!
- Hey there! Just a heads up, the speaker's gasket is one-and-done—it's not coming back for an encore. So, when you're piecing everything back together, make sure to swap it out with a fresh one!
- Grab those tweezers and gently peel away every bit of the old gasket from the frame and speaker. It's time to say goodbye to the old stuff!
- Now, let’s get things sparkling! Use a microfiber cloth alongside some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any leftover adhesive residue from both the frame and the speaker. Clean slate, here we come!
- Before you dive in and pop that new speaker gasket on, take a moment to find its sweet spot on the bottom of the speaker. Remember, the big cutout on the gasket should fit snugly around the speaker grille mesh.
- Peel off the larger, clear liner from the gasket, and with your trusty tweezers, carefully place the gasket right on the bottom of the speaker. It's like a puzzle piece finding its home!
- Time to secure that gasket! Use your fingers or a spudger to press it down firmly, ensuring it sticks nicely with that adhesive.
- Almost there! Remove the last liner and gently place the speaker back, making sure the connector doesn't get trapped underneath. You're doing great!
Step 37
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw that’s holding the Taptic Engine in place. You've got this!
Step 38
- Grab a spudger and gently lift the Taptic Engine flex cable from its socket. A little nudge upwards should do the trick—no need to force it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Carefully take out the Taptic Engine.
Step 40
The iPhone X battery is held tight to the back case by four stretch-release adhesive strips—one up top on the battery cell, and three down low. Time to gently peel them away!
- Each strip of adhesive sports a little black pull-tab at the end, gently stuck to the side edge of the battery, ready for you to grab and peel.
Step 41
Keep sharp tools away from the battery—poking it could cause leaks or even a fire, and nobody wants that kind of excitement in their day!
Each tab features a nifty little loop in the middle; if you're struggling to get a grip on the tab, just slide a tool through the loop for an easier hold.
- Peel the first adhesive tab off the bottom of the battery. It should come away easily, but if you're having trouble, give it a gentle tug and try again!
Step 42
Careful now! That little speaker cable connector right under the center adhesive tab is delicate—handle it gently so it stays happy and intact.
- Give it another go! Just like before, peel off the last two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery. You're doing great!
Step 43
If the strips snap, no worries! They don’t always behave perfectly. Keep going for some extra tips on how to get those stubborn pieces off.
In these next steps, you’ll gently pull each tab to stretch out the adhesive holding the battery in place. This clever stretch-release adhesive loses its grip when pulled, letting the battery come out smoothly and easily, no wrestling required.
- Boost your chances of success with these tips:
- If a strip decides to play hide and seek beneath the battery and you can’t fish it out, just keep calm and move on to the other strips. You’ve got this!
- Avoid putting pressure on the battery. Instead, give your iPhone a gentle hug by holding it firmly on the sides.
- As you pull, keep those strips nice and flat—no wrinkles allowed!
- Take it slow and steady! Give each strip about 15-30 seconds to stretch and detach. Patience is key!
- When you pull, aim for a low angle so the strip doesn’t get caught on the battery's edge. Smooth sailing ahead!
Step 44
If any of those sneaky adhesive strips decide to break free under the battery and play hide-and-seek, don’t sweat it! Just go ahead and remove the rest, and then follow the steps below like a pro.
The strip is a stretch superstar—keep pulling, and if needed, grab closer to the battery for maximum control.
If the adhesive tabs snap mid-removal, don't panic. Just use your fingers or some blunt tweezers to grab what’s left and keep on pulling.
- Take hold of one of those nifty outer battery adhesive tabs and gently tug it away from the battery, aiming toward the bottom of your iPhone.
- Keep the pull steady, maintaining a nice, even tension on that strip until it wiggles free from its cozy spot between the battery and the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Go ahead and do the same thing on the other side—peel off that strip too, but save the middle one for last.
Step 46
- Gently peel off the center strip, making sure it doesn't get caught on the speaker flex cable—let’s keep it smooth and snag-free!
Step 47
Heads up! The last pull tab is super close to the Face ID hardware. If it gets damaged, only Apple can fix Face ID, so handle this step with extra care.
- Gently peel back and separate the pull tab on the last adhesive strip, located along the top edge of the upper battery cell. Take your time to make sure it comes off smoothly.
Step 48
When the strip peels away, it might just launch the battery like a mini rocket—so keep your hand gently over it to catch the battery, but avoid pressing down on it, or the adhesive strip might snap off underneath.
Don’t try to yank the battery out by force. If it’s being stubborn, a few extra drops of alcohol can help loosen the grip. And whatever you do, never bend or poke the battery with your pry tool.
Watch out for those delicate ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil tucked right under the battery—handle with care to keep everything intact.
If the adhesive under your battery snaps and you can't grab the end, try adding a few drops of high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the spot where the strip broke. Let it sneak under the battery edge to help loosen things up.
Looking for more ways to free your battery from its sticky prison? Keep going to the next step!
- Peel off that last sticky adhesive strip like a pro.
- If you nailed removing all four adhesive strips, feel free to skip the upcoming step.
- Give it about a minute for the alcohol to do its magic softening the glue. Then, use the flat side of your spudger to carefully pry up the battery.
Tools Used
Step 49
If you decide to use pry tools to lift the battery from the iPhone, be super careful—those ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil underneath are pretty sensitive and can get damaged easily.
Warm up the iPhone just enough so the back feels a bit too hot to touch comfortably. Avoid overheating it though, or you might risk setting the battery on fire.
- If the adhesive strips snapped and your battery’s still clinging to the rear case like a stubborn sticker, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer and warm up the area right behind the battery.
- Flip your iPhone so the screen’s facing up, and slide a tough piece of string—dental floss or a thin guitar string works wonders—underneath the battery.
- Saw the string back and forth along the battery’s length to loosen up that sticky adhesive. It might take a little time, but with some patience, the battery will let go. Just keep the battery in good shape—no squishing or bending allowed.
- Wrap the ends of your string around a cloth, or throw on some gloves, to save your fingers from getting roughed up.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Grab the battery from the bottom edge and gently pull it out of the iPhone.
- If there's any leftover alcohol solution hanging out in the phone, just give it a careful wipe or let it air dry before you pop in your new battery.
- Before you put that new battery in, make sure to reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker. This will keep everything nice and aligned during the battery installation.
- Before you stick the replacement battery in, reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket for a moment. This way, you can make sure the battery is sitting perfectly in its spot.
- If your shiny new battery doesn’t come with adhesive all set up, take a peek at this guide to help you swap out the adhesive strips.
- After you’ve put everything back together, give your device a force restart. This little trick can help avoid some pesky issues and make troubleshooting a breeze.
- Now, adhere the battery, disconnect it, and keep putting your device back together.
Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger, and with the flat end, carefully disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:
- The dot projector. Yep, that's the one.
- The front camera. Time to free it up.
- The infrared camera. Gently disconnect this little guy too.
Tools Used
Step 52
The camera cables are gently stuck to the midframe—just a little adhesive keeping them cozy.
- Grab your trusty spudger and let’s get to work! Start at the connector and gently slide the spudger between the IR camera cable and the case. This will help free the cable from its cozy little home inside the case.
- Now, let’s give the front camera cable the same treatment. Just repeat the process and you’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 53
- Heat things up a bit to help loosen that stubborn adhesive holding the front camera assembly. Patience is key!
Step 54
- Carefully lift out the front camera assembly.
Step 55
- Time to disconnect some cable buddies! Let's get started:
- 1. Say goodbye to the WiFi Antenna connector.
- 2. Next up, it's the Wide-Angle Camera connector's turn.
- 3. Don't forget to unplug the Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
- 4. The Telephoto Camera connector is on the list too.
- 5. Now, let’s move on to the Dock Flex connector.
- 6. Time to detach the Button / Wireless Charging connector.
- 7. Last but not least, let’s disconnect the Cellular Antenna connector.
Step 56
- Unclip that WiFi Antenna cable connector—give it a gentle wiggle and pop it out.
Step 57
- Unplug that Wide-Angle Camera cable connector like a pro!
Step 58
- Unplug the Power Button, Flash, and Microphone cables from their connectors. Gently, but with confidence—no need to rush!
Step 59
- Gently unplug the Telephoto Camera cable connector to keep things moving.
Step 60
- Gently unplug the Dock Flex cable connector.
- Give the cable a smooth 90-degree bend straight up so you have enough room to slide out the logic board.
Step 61
- Gently unplug the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector to keep things safe and sound.
Step 62
- Unclip that Cellular Antenna cable connector like a pro.
- Gently swing the cable aside so it’s not cramping your style.
Step 63
Remember to pop that metal grounding tab back in the same way it came out. It’s like fitting a puzzle piece — just make sure it’s in the right spot and facing the right direction. If you're unsure, no worries! You can always schedule a repair.
- Heads up: The logic board isn't going anywhere if the SIM card tray is still hanging out. If you forgot to pop it out earlier, now's your moment.
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the two mounting screws.
- Next up, take out the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.
- Don't forget the grounding tab—lift that out too.
- Find the 2.7 mm Phillips screw and take it out.
- Finally, remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
Step 64
- When you pop out the SIM card, a little pin springs out from the frame and nudges the eject lever on the SIM card carrier. You'll want to gently push that pin back into the frame so it doesn't get in the way when you take out the logic board.
Step 65
- Grab your trusty fine tip tweezers and gently slide the SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case.
- When you’re done, the eject lever should look just like this — with the pin no longer blocking the logic board’s removal.
Tools Used
Step 66
- The logic board assembly sits on two posts that pass through the lower board and latch onto the upper board. To get it out, just lift it up evenly and straight to clear those stand-offs without any wobbling.
Step 67
- Unscrew the 1.4 mm Phillips screw that's keeping the grounding tab in place.
- Take out the grounding tab—easy does it!
- Take a mental snapshot of how the tab sits, so you can put it back the right way when you reassemble everything.
Step 68
- Let's get those buttons free! Start by taking out the six screws that are holding them in place.
- You'll need two 1.5 mm Phillips screws to kick things off.
- Next up, grab another two 1.9 mm Phillips screws.
- Don't forget the one 2.4 mm Phillips screw—it's a crucial piece of the puzzle!
- And finally, finish strong with one 1.7 mm Phillips screw.
Step 69
- Gently detach the ring/silent switch from the side of the case. It's a simple move, just give it a little nudge!
- Use a spudger to carefully peel the flex cable off the bottom of the case. Take your time and make sure it's nice and smooth!
Tools Used
Step 70
If you're planning to reuse the button or charging coil assembly, handle this cable with the gentlest touch you’ve got. It’s super thin and delicate, so take your time and be kind to it—less stress means a happier cable!
- Give that case a little love with an iOpener, or heat things up with a hot air gun or hair dryer. This will help loosen up that stubborn adhesive, making it a breeze to pull apart.
- Carefully peel away the button cable—gentle does it!
- Grab your tweezers to hold onto the cable, and slide the spudger in between the cable and the case. You'll be a pro in no time!
Step 71
- Warm up the back of your phone with an iOpener, or give that coil a gentle blast with a hot air gun or hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive and make removal a breeze.
- Carefully peel off the wireless charging coil.
Tools Used
Step 72
- Take off the assembly with a bit of finesse! You've got this!
Step 73
Check out the iPhone X Power and Audio Exterior Buttons guide for a step-by-step on how to gently detach that exterior switch from the button assembly. You've got this!
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse—easy peasy! And if you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us.
