iPhone X Interconnect Cable Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 76 Steps
This cable plays a super important role by linking your main cellular antenna to the logic board. If this cable gets damaged, you might experience some hiccups like poor network reception, unexpected dropped calls, trouble connecting to 3G or 4G networks, or even losing internet access altogether. Let's keep that connection strong!
Step 1
- Grab a SIM card tool or a trusty paperclip, and poke it into the tiny hole next to the side button—right on the edge of your iPhone.
- Give it a confident push to pop that tray out!
Tools Used
Step 2
The SIM card might just pop right out of the tray with little effort. No big deal, just keep it steady and you'll be fine!
- Pop out that SIM card tray from your iPhone—easy does it!
- When you slide the SIM card back in, make sure it’s facing the right way in the tray. No upside-down shenanigans here.
- Notice that skinny rubber gasket hugging the SIM tray? It’s your phone’s shield against water and dust. If it looks beat up or has gone missing, swap out the gasket or the whole tray to keep your iPhone safe inside.
Step 3
Before diving in, make sure your iPhone’s battery is below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery is like a ticking time bomb if punctured — so keep it cool and safe!
Opening up your iPhone's display will break those fancy waterproof seals. So, be sure to have some replacement seals handy before diving deeper into this step, or at least keep your iPhone away from water if you decide to put it back together without swapping out the seals.
- Make sure to power off your iPhone before you start taking it apart.
- Next, remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- If you find the screws are stripped or damaged, it's best to replace them before moving on.
Step 4
Watch out for going too deep—if your pick gets lost in there, your device might not be thrilled. Make a mark on your pick so it knows where to stop.
Feeling fancy? Mark the other corners with different measurements for that custom touch.
Or, if you want to keep things quirky, tape a coin to the pick exactly 3 mm from the tip.
- Grab your opening pick and measure 3mm from the tip. Use a permanent marker to mark it—this will help you stay on track while you work your magic.
Step 5
Pop on those safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any glass that might decide to make a quick exit during the repair. Better safe than sorry!
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Keep those dangerous shards in check and avoid any accidental ouchies by taping over the glass before you start your repair.
If the suction cup just won’t stick, a little superglue can help it grip the screen better.
- Cover your iPhone's screen with several strips of clear packing tape, overlapping each one until the entire front is protected.
- If the suction cup isn't sticking in the next steps, no worries! Just grab a sturdy piece of tape (like duct tape), fold it into a handle, and lift the screen using that instead.
Step 6
Ready for some tool action? The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp—a clever gadget that makes popping your device open a breeze. No Anti-Clamp in your toolkit? Just skip ahead three steps for a classic workaround.
Want the full Anti-Clamp playbook? Check out the dedicated guide for all the tips and tricks.
If your iPhone’s surface is slicker than a slip-n-slide and the Anti-Clamp keeps losing grip, slap on some tape for extra traction.
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull back to unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms. No muscles required.
- Slide the arms onto either the left or right side of your iPhone—your call.
- Line up the suction cups close to the bottom edge of your iPhone, one on the front, one on the back, like a little iPhone sandwich.
- Press the cups together to get a good suction grip right where you want to work.
Step 7
- Slide that blue handle up front to lock those arms in place.
- Crank the handle clockwise all the way around (yep, a full spin!) or until you see the cups starting to stretch.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups—they need to stay lined up. If they start drifting apart, just loosen them a bit and get those arms back in sync.
Step 8
Take it easy and don't twist more than a quarter turn at a time. Give it a minute to work its magic between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do their thing – you've got this!
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can also do the trick—but go easy, because too much heat can mess with your screen or battery. Handle with care!
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you the space you need, warm up the area a bit more and give the handle a quarter turn for some extra leverage.
- Warm up an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
- Fold the iOpener so it rests along the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Give it about a minute to let the adhesive soften and create a little opening gap.
- Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the screen and the plastic bezel—avoid going under the screen itself.
- Skip the next three steps.
Tools Used
Step 9
If you’re using a hairdryer or heat gun, keep it chill—too much heat can turn your screen into toast!
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone gets that sticky adhesive to chill out, making prying open the display way less of a hassle.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or iOpener, and gently warm up the lower edge of your iPhone for about a minute. This will help soften the adhesive beneath, making the next steps smoother. Patience is key here—take your time!
Tools Used
Step 10
- Grab a single suction handle and stick it to the bottom edge of the phone—just steer clear of that tricky curved glass area.
Tools Used
Step 11
That waterproof adhesive is seriously tough—getting that first little gap open takes some muscle. If it’s being stubborn, try adding more heat and gently rock the screen up and down to soften the glue until there’s just enough space to slide your tool in.
- Grab the suction cup and pull up steadily with some solid pressure to gently nudge a small gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap beneath the screen's plastic bezel — be sure to avoid the screen itself!
Step 12
Keep your pick to a cool 3 mm or less; going deeper might put a dent in those delicate internal parts!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge of your iPhone, carefully cutting through the adhesive that's keeping the display snugly in place.
Step 13
Careful now! There are some fragile cables hanging out along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sticking your pick in this area, or you might accidentally give those cables a not-so-fun day!
Step 14
Be careful not to push your pick in more than 3 mm, or you might accidentally mess with the display cables!
- Slide your pick back in at the bottom edge of the iPhone, then glide it up along the right side to keep loosening that sticky adhesive.
Step 15
Go easy on those clips—they're not fans of brute force. Take your time and keep it chill.
Keep your pick shallow—3mm is your max. Any deeper and you'll risk messing with the sensor array up front.
The top edge of the display is locked in place with a combo of stubborn glue and sneaky little clips.
- Ease the opening pick around the top corner of the display while gently pulling or wiggling the display down toward the Lightning port.
- Slide the pick to the opposite corner and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place.
Step 16
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel.
Step 17
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking the display off just yet. There are some delicate ribbon cables still hanging on tight to the iPhone's logic board, and we don't want any accidental breakage.
As shown in the picture, make sure the frame comes off with the display like best buddies—no one wants it getting stuck in the device!
- Flip open the iPhone by lifting the display from the left side, just like opening the back cover of a book.
- Prop the display up by leaning it against something stable while you work on the phone.
- When putting it back together, carefully position the display, line up the clips along the top edge, and gently press that top edge down before snapping the rest into place. If it doesn’t snap in smoothly, double-check the clips around the edges to make sure none are bent or out of alignment.
Step 18
As you go through this repair, keep an eye on each screw and make sure it goes back to its original spot. That way, you’ll avoid any mix-ups and keep your iPhone in perfect shape!
- Time to loosen up five Y000 screws holding down the logic board connector bracket. Here’s the breakdown:
- Three tiny 1.1 mm screws – keep 'em safe!
- One slightly bigger 3.1 mm screw – don’t mix it up!
- One 3.7 mm screw – the biggest of the bunch, handle with care!
Step 19
The bracket might be hanging on a little too tightly. Give it a gentle yet confident lift to break it free.
- Take out the bracket—easy does it.
- If you're putting things back together, now’s a smooth moment to power up your iPhone and make sure everything’s running right before you snap the display shut. Once you’ve checked, turn it off all the way before moving on. Safety first, superhero!
Step 20
Be gentle with the black silicone seal around the board connections. These little guys are your phone’s first line of defense against water and dust, so let's not mess with them too much!
- Grab a spudger or your clean fingernail and gently nudge that battery connector away from its cozy little socket on the logic board.
- Now, give that connector a slight bend away from the logic board. This little move will keep it from accidentally reconnecting and powering up your device while you're in repair mode!
Tools Used
Step 21
- Gently use the point of a spudger or your trusty fingernail to pop off the front panel sensor assembly connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Gently pop off the OLED panel cable connector using the tip of a spudger or your fingernail—think of it like unplugging a tiny, stubborn seatbelt.
- When reconnecting, line up the connector and press down on one edge until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Skip pressing in the middle—those pins are picky! If it’s off-center, the pins might bend and nobody wants that kind of drama.
Tools Used
Step 23
- Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector out of its socket.
- This connector likes to hide deep down, making it a bit tricky to plug back in. Take a breath, line it up carefully, then press it down softly with your fingertip—start with one side, then the other. You'll know it's set when you feel a satisfying little click.
- If any part of your screen feels unresponsive after the repair, disconnect the battery and give this connector another go—make sure it snaps fully into place and that the socket is clean and free of dust or debris.
Tools Used
Step 24
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is just lightly stuck down, so it’s easy to peel back without any drama.
- Gently raise the cable until the sticky stuff lets go.
Step 25
- Gently detach the display assembly from its place.
- If you're planning to swap out the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display during reassembly, take a breather here and handle it with care!
Step 26
Watch your fingers around those three rows of grounding pads at the bottom of the iPhone. They're a bit sensitive, so give them some space and keep things safe!
- Alright, let's get down to business. Time to remove those seven screws holding the bracket under the Taptic Engine and speaker:
- Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
- One Y000 1.2 mm screw
- One Y000 1.6 mm screw
- One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
- One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
- One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
Step 27
- Gently lift the bracket from the edge closest to the battery. No need to yank it off completely, as it’s still hanging on with a little flex cable!
Step 28
- While keeping the bracket out of your way, gently use the point of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the flex cable hiding underneath. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Take off the bracket with care and confidence.
Step 30
- Take out that 2.1 mm Y000 screw holding the speaker connector cover in place. You've got this!
Step 31
- Carefully lift off the speaker connector cover to reveal what's underneath.
Step 32
- Gently slide the spudger tip under the speaker connector and give it a little lift to disconnect it. Take your time, it’s all in the wrist!
Tools Used
Step 33
When lifting the speaker, be mindful of the flex cable you just disconnected. If it’s in the way, gently move it aside to give the speaker enough space to come out smoothly.
- Slide a spudger into the top edge of the speaker, right by the iPhone's case edge.
- Carefully lift and pry the top edge of the speaker upwards.
- As you put the speaker back in place, keep an eye on the flex cable to ensure it doesn't get squished underneath.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grab the speaker by its side edges and gently wiggle it side to side to loosen the adhesive holding it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
- Carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge until the adhesive gasket comes free.
Step 35
- Time to take out the speaker. Gently remove it, being careful not to damage any surrounding parts. You got this!
Step 36
To keep that sticky adhesive at bay, be sure to hold onto the gasket by its outer edges only. You've got this!
- Heads up: the speaker's gasket is a one-time use kind of deal. When putting things back together, swap it out for a fresh one.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and lift off every bit of the old gasket from both the frame and the speaker.
- Give the frame and speaker a spa treatment with a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol—wipe away all that sticky leftover gasket gunk.
- Before you stick down the new speaker gasket, figure out which way it goes—the big cutout should wrap around the speaker grille mesh.
- Peel off the bigger, clear liner from the gasket. Use your tweezers to gently set the gasket on the bottom of the speaker, right where it belongs.
- Press the gasket down with your fingers or a spudger to make sure it's good and stuck.
- Take off the last liner and put the speaker back in place, double-checking that the speaker connector isn’t hiding underneath.
Step 37
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the Taptic Engine — time to give it some freedom!
Step 38
- Grab a spudger and gently pry the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Lift out the Taptic Engine and set it aside like a pro.
Step 40
The iPhone X's battery is held in place inside the rear case by four stretch-release adhesive strips — one on the top cell and three along the bottom.
- Each piece of adhesive comes with a handy little black pull-tab at the end, gently stuck to the side edge of the battery. Give it a tug and watch it work its magic!
Step 41
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: steer clear of poking the battery with sharp tools. A little poke can lead to a messy leak of dangerous chemicals or even a fiery situation. Let's keep it safe and sound!
Each tab features a nifty little loop right in the center; if you're finding it tricky to grab that tab, just slide a tool through the loop for a little extra help.
- Gently peel away the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery, like unveiling a tiny surprise!
Step 42
Be gentle with that speaker cable connector hiding just below the center adhesive tab—it's a delicate little fella!
- Go ahead and do the same thing to pry those last two stubborn adhesive tabs off the bottom edge of the battery. Almost there!
Step 43
If the strips snap, no worries! They don’t always cooperate as planned. Keep going for some extra tips on how to get those tricky broken strips out.
In the next steps, you'll be pulling each tab to gently stretch the adhesive holding the battery in place. This unique stretch-release adhesive says goodbye to its stickiness when you give it a little tug, making it super easy to lift the battery right out. You've got this!
- To boost your chances of success:
- If one strip tears off under the battery and you can't grab it, just skip it and work with the other strips before moving on to the next steps below.
- Avoid pressing down on the battery. Hold your iPhone securely by its sides.
- Keep the strips flat and smooth as you pull them out.
- Pull slowly and steadily, giving the strip time to stretch and come free. It usually takes about 15-30 seconds of gentle stretching to get each strip out.
- Pull at a shallow angle to avoid catching the strip on the battery’s bottom edge.
Step 44
If an adhesive strip snaps off under the battery and you can’t grab it, just clear out any remaining strips and keep cruising on to the next step.
The adhesive strip is about to show off its flexibility—keep pulling and grab it closer to the battery if you need to keep things moving.
If the adhesive tab snaps, no worries! Just use your fingers or blunt tweezers to fish out what's left and keep on pulling.
- Take hold of one of those nifty outer battery adhesive tabs and gently pull it away from the battery, directing it down towards the bottom of your iPhone.
- Keep that steady pull going, maintaining consistent tension on the strip until it gracefully slips out from the space between the battery and the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Now, just repeat what you did earlier to remove the strip on the other side. Leave the center strip for last, and you'll be done before you know it!
Step 46
- Gently peel off the center strip, but take care not to catch it on the speaker flex cable. Patience is key here!
Step 47
Be super careful with the last pull tab – it's right next to the Face ID hardware. If you damage it, you'll need to get Face ID fixed by Apple. So, let’s take it easy and handle it with love!
- Gently peel and pull apart the tab on the last adhesive strip located at the top edge of the upper battery cell.
Step 48
Watch out for that battery! When the strip comes off your iPhone, it might just launch the battery like a surprise party popper. Keep your hand over it to keep it safe, but remember, don’t push down on the battery itself—adding pressure could cause that adhesive strip to pull a disappearing act.
Let’s take it easy on that battery—no need to wrestle it out! If it’s being stubborn, a couple more drops of alcohol can help it loosen up. And please, do your best to avoid deforming or poking the battery with your pry tool.
Keep an eye out for those delicate ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil hiding right beneath the battery. We want to keep everything intact and happy!
If the adhesive underneath the battery snaps and you can’t grab it, try dripping a bit of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the battery’s edge where the sticky strip broke.
Ready for more ways to free that stubborn battery? Head to the next step below.
- Time to say goodbye to that last pesky adhesive strip – pull it off carefully!
- If you've successfully tackled all four adhesive strips, you can breeze past the next step.
- Now, let's give that alcohol solution a minute to work its magic on the adhesive. Once it's had some time, use the flat end of a spudger to gently coax the battery out.
Tools Used
Step 49
When using pry tools to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone, be super careful! You wouldn't want to accidentally mess up those delicate ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil hiding just beneath the battery.
Warm up the iPhone until the back feels just a smidge too hot to comfortably touch. But hey, don't go overboard—overheating could lead to some serious battery drama!
- If any adhesive strips got detached and the battery is still stuck to the rear case, grab an iOpener or use a hair dryer to warm up the rear case right behind the battery.
- Flip your device back over and gently slide a strong piece of string (like dental floss or a thin guitar string) under the battery.
- Carefully pull the string back and forth, like a saw, along the full length of the battery to loosen the adhesive. This might take a little time since the adhesive is pretty stubborn, but hang in there—it will come off. Just make sure not to bend or damage the battery.
- Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or throw on some gloves) to protect your fingers from getting too sore.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Grab the battery from the bottom edge and lift it out of the iPhone.
- If there’s any leftover alcohol solution inside the phone, gently wipe it away or let it air dry before popping in your new battery.
- Put the Taptic Engine and speaker back in place before installing the new battery to help keep everything lined up just right.
- Before sticking down the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect its connector to the logic board socket to make sure it’s perfectly aligned in its spot.
- If your new battery didn’t come with adhesive already attached, check out this guide for tips on swapping out the adhesive strips.
- After putting everything back together, do a force restart. It’s a simple trick that can avoid some headaches and make troubleshooting easier.
- Stick the battery down, disconnect it, and then finish reassembling your device.
Step 51
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently pry away the three cables connecting the front camera assembly:
- The dot projector.
- The front camera.
- The infrared camera.
Tools Used
Step 52
The camera cables are gently stuck to the midframe, so a little patience goes a long way here.
- Grab your trusty spudger and ease the tip under the IR camera cable, starting at the connector. Gently shimmy the spudger between the cable and the case to separate them. Smooth moves!
- Now do the same for the front camera cable—slide, lift, and set it free.
Tools Used
Step 53
- Warm things up a bit to help loosen that sticky adhesive holding the front camera assembly in place.
Step 54
- Lift out the front camera assembly and set it aside—it’s got places to be, just like you.
Step 55
- Let's start by disconnecting a few cables. First up, the WiFi Antenna connector.
- Next, carefully unplug the Wide-Angle Camera connector.
- Time to detach the Power Button, Flash, and Microphone connector.
- Now, disconnect the Telephoto Camera connector.
- Go ahead and unplug the Dock Flex connector.
- Unhook the Button and Wireless Charging connector.
- Lastly, disconnect the Cellular Antenna connector.
Step 56
- Carefully unplug the WiFi Antenna cable connector to keep things running smoothly.
Step 57
- Gently unplug the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector to keep things cool and smooth.
Step 58
- Unplug that Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector—just give it a gentle lift and let it take a little break from the rest of the device.
Step 59
- Gently unplug the Telephoto Camera cable connector. Give it a little wiggle if it's being stubborn, but don’t go yanking on it.
Step 60
- Unplug that Dock Flex cable connector like a pro!
- Now, give that cable a little twist—bend it 90 degrees straight up to clear the way for the logic board removal. You got this!
Step 61
- Carefully unplug the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector to keep things running smoothly.
Step 62
- Unplug the Cellular Antenna cable connector with care.
- Give the cable a little bend so it’s out of your way.
Step 63
Make sure to put the metal grounding tab back the same way it came out. It’s all about keeping that connection just right!
- First things first—if you haven't already taken out the SIM card tray, do it now. The logic board won't budge with that tray still in place.
- Time to unscrew! Start by removing the two Phillips mounting screws.
- Next, grab your tools and remove the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.
- Don't forget the grounding tab! It’s gotta go too.
- One 2.7 mm Phillips screw is up next. Pop it out.
- Finally, unscrew the 2.1 mm Phillips screw. You’re almost there!
Step 64
- When you pop out the SIM card, a little pin will slide out of the frame and press on the eject lever in the SIM card holder. Make sure to gently push that pin back into the frame so it won’t block the removal of the logic board. It's a simple step, but don’t rush it!
Step 65
- Grab a trusty pair of fine tip tweezers and gently nudge that SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case. You've got this!
- When you're finished, the eject lever should be looking sharp and ready for action! The pin will be out of the way, making it a breeze to remove the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 66
- The logic board is held in place by two posts that go through the bottom board and attach to the top one. To remove it, carefully lift it straight up, ensuring it clears the stand-offs without any hassle. Keep it steady and you're good to go!
Step 67
- Start by removing the 1.2 mm Y000 screw that’s holding the cellular antenna cable to the screen retainer. Easy stuff!
- Next, gently bend the antenna cable away from the side of the case. This will give you the space you need to access the screws securing the retainer to the case. Piece of cake!
Step 68
- First, let's tackle those three tiny Phillips screws, each measuring 1.5 mm, that are keeping the screen retainer in place. Grab your trusty screwdriver and get to work!
- Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift off the retainer. You're doing great!
Step 69
In a bind? A small flathead screwdriver can work in a pinch—but take it slow and steady to avoid slipping and causing damage to nearby parts.
Standoff screws come out easiest with a standoff screwdriver or bit—grab one and make those screws spin right out!
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm stand-off securing the barometric vent—don’t lose it, it’s a sneaky little thing.
- Lift out the barometric vent and give it a wave goodbye.
Step 70
- Unscrew the two 2.6 mm stand-off screws keeping the Lightning connector cozy against the back of the case.
- Take out the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are hanging onto the charging port at the bottom of the case.
Step 72
- Keep gently peeling up that dock connector—you're almost there!
Step 73
- Take out the dock connector—like unplugging your phone from its little electrical hug.
Step 74
Once you've taken out the Lightning connector, the interconnect cable is just hanging on by some sticky adhesive—easy does it!
- Warm up the adhesive holding the flex cable to the case using a hair dryer, hot air gun, or by applying an iOpener to the back. A little heat makes everything easier to lift—just don’t toast your device!
Tools Used
Step 75
- Gently lift the cable away using your spudger—think of it as giving the cable a little nudge to set it free.
Tools Used
Step 76
- Ready to bring your device back together? Just work your way through the steps in reverse, and you'll be up and running in no time. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair for backup.
