iPhone X Lightning Connector Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 79 Steps
The Lightning connector (also known as the dock connector) is the key link between your charging port and the logic board. It's the most used connector on Apple devices, making it the one that takes the most hits over time, handling both charging and data transfer. If cleaning the lightning port didn't help, replacing the dock connector might be the solution you need. This fix can tackle charging problems, syncing issues with your computer, unrecognized accessories, or sound troubles when using an adapter. It also sorts out sensor issues like mic1 and PRS0, which could be causing those annoying boot loops. If you're not sure about doing this on your own, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Grab a SIM card eject tool or a trusty paperclip and gently poke it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray, which you’ll find near the side button on your iPhone's edge.
- Give it a good press to pop that tray right out!
Tools Used
Step 2
The SIM card practically leaps out of the tray—no effort required!
- Pop out the SIM card tray from your iPhone with care.
- When putting the SIM card back in, make sure it’s lined up just right with the tray so it fits perfectly.
- There’s a slim rubber gasket around the SIM tray that keeps water and dust out. If that gasket looks worn or missing, swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your iPhone safe and sound.
Step 3
Hey! Before diving in, make sure to drain your iPhone’s battery below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery is like a tiny firecracker—puncture it by accident, and things could get spicy (not the fun kind). Stay safe and let’s get to work!
Popping open your iPhone’s display will break its waterproof seals. Make sure you have replacement seals handy before moving forward, or be extra careful to keep liquids away if you put it back together without swapping them out.
- Start by powering off your iPhone. It's a good habit to keep things powered down while you work.
- Unscrew the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom of your iPhone. These little guys are holding it together, so take care while removing them.
- If you happen to encounter stripped or damaged screws, don’t stress—just replace them with fresh ones and keep going.
Step 4
Don't let your opening pick wander too far—if it does, your device could end up with more problems than you bargained for. Use this step to mark your pick and keep things safe.
Spice things up by marking the other corners of the pick with different measurements. It's like pick fashion!
Or, for a quick hack, tape a coin 3 mm from the pick’s tip. Your device will thank you.
- Take a moment to measure 3 mm from the tip and give your opening pick a little mark with a permanent marker. You're doing great!
Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses—let’s keep those peepers safe from any surprise flying glass!
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Keep those shards in check and protect your fingers by slapping some tape over the glass before you dive in.
If things get tricky, you can stick the suction cup on with a bit of superglue to get a grip.
- Cover the iPhone’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is protected.
- If the suction cup won’t stick in the next steps, no worries—just fold a sturdy piece of tape (like duct tape) into a little handle and use that to gently lift the screen instead.
Step 6
The next three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries—just skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
For detailed instructions on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPhone’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip well, try adding some tape to give it a bit more traction.
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull backwards to let the Anti-Clamp’s arms stretch out.
- Slide those arms over the left or right edge of your iPhone—whichever feels right.
- Line up the suction cups close to the bottom edge of your iPhone; one should chill on the front, and the other hangs out on the back.
- Pinch the cups together to get some solid suction on the spot you’re aiming for.
Step 7
- Give that blue handle a little tug forward to lock those arms in place!
- Now, twist that handle a full 360 degrees or until those suction cups start to stretch out—you're doing great!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they're staying in sync. If they start to get a little wonky, just loosen them up a tad and get those arms back in line. You’ve got this!
Step 8
Take it easy! Don’t twist more than a quarter turn at a time, and give it a breather for a full minute between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting for you.
You can also try using a hair dryer, heat gun, or even a hot plate—but be cautious with the heat. Too much can harm the display or the internal battery. Go slow and steady!
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you enough room, add a bit more heat and give that handle a gentle twist to the right. A little extra heat might just do the trick!
- Warm up your iOpener and carefully slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
- Next, gently fold the iOpener so that it rests on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
- Take a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small gap for you to work with.
- Insert your opening pick carefully underneath the screen, aiming for the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
- You can skip the next three steps.
Tools Used
Step 9
Go easy with the hairdryer or heat gun—too much heat can roast your screen instead of fixing it!
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone will loosen the sticky glue holding the screen in place, making it way simpler to pop open.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about a minute to loosen the adhesive underneath. This will make things easier when you start opening it up.
Tools Used
Step 10
- Stick the suction handle right onto the bottom edge of your phone—just steer clear of the curvy part of the glass.
Tools Used
Step 11
The adhesive keeping that screen snug is super strong, so getting that initial gap open might take a bit of muscle! If you're struggling to pry it open, don't sweat it—just add a little more heat and gently wiggle the screen up and down to loosen that sticky stuff. Once you've created enough space for your tool, you’ll be on your way to a successful repair!
- Grab the suction cup and pull up steadily with some good, even pressure to gently create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap beneath the screen’s plastic bezel—make sure you’re not prying directly on the screen itself!
Step 12
Be careful not to push your pick in more than 3 mm, or you might accidentally poke something important inside!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up along the left side of the iPhone, cutting through the sticky stuff that’s holding the display snugly in place.
Step 13
Heads up! There are some fragile cables hanging out along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick in there or you might accidentally mess them up.
Step 14
Keep your pick insertion under 3 mm to avoid giving those delicate display cables a surprise squeeze!
- Now, grab your pick and gently reinsert it at the bottom edge of the iPhone. Slide it up along the right side to keep separating that sticky adhesive. You got this!
Step 15
Take it easy with the clips—they’re delicate little guys and might snap if you get too rough. Slow and steady wins the race!
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no more than 3 mm—so you don’t accidentally mess with the front panel sensor array.
The top edge of the screen is held in place with both sticky adhesive and some sneaky little clips.
- Glide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, gently shimmying the screen downward toward the Lightning port. Think of it like coaxing a stubborn cookie out of a jar—no sudden moves, just smooth vibes.
- Now cruise over to the other corner with the pick and slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place. You're almost there!
Step 16
- Gently grab the tiny nub on the suction cup and give it a little pull to pop it off the front panel.
Step 17
Hold up on fully separating the display—there are a few delicate ribbon cables still tethered to the iPhone’s logic board. No need to rush, let’s keep things connected for now.
Double-check that the frame is coming off with the display and not hanging back in the device. It’s a team effort: frame and display, together!
- Open the iPhone by lifting the display up from the left side, just like opening the back cover of a book.
- Prop the display against something sturdy to keep it steady while you work on the phone.
- When putting it back together, set the display in place, line up the clips along the top edge, and gently press the top edge down before snapping the rest of the display into position. If it doesn’t snap easily, take a moment to check the clips around the display’s edge and make sure none are bent or out of place.
Step 18
As you tackle this repair, be sure to keep an eye on those screws! Make a note of where each one belongs so you can put them back in their cozy little homes. This will help keep your iPhone safe and sound.
- Time to unscrew! Start by removing the five Y000 screws holding the logic board connector bracket in place. You'll need:
- Three 1.1 mm screws
- One 3.1 mm screw
- One 3.7 mm screw
Step 19
The bracket might be holding on a bit, but don't worry, it's not stuck for good. Give it a gentle but firm lift, and it should pop right off!
- Take off the bracket, it's time to move on!
- Before you seal the display back in, why not power up your iPhone and make sure everything is working as it should? Just make sure to turn it off completely before continuing with the rest of the steps.
Step 20
Be extra careful not to mess with the black silicone seal around this and other board connections. These little guys are here to keep out water and dust, giving your device some extra love and protection.
- Carefully use the tip of a spudger or a clean fingernail to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
- Gently bend the connector away from the logic board just enough to keep it from touching the socket and powering up the phone while you work.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Pop that front panel sensor assembly connector loose using the pointy end of a spudger or your fingernail.
Tools Used
Step 22
- Grab the point of a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently disconnect that OLED panel cable connector. You've got this!
- When it's time to reconnect, carefully align the connectors just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same for the other side. Just a friendly reminder: steer clear of pressing down in the middle! If things get misaligned, those little pins can bend, and nobody wants that kind of drama. Keep it cool and take your time!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector out of its socket.
- This connector likes to hide deep in its socket, making reconnection a bit of a challenge. Take a breath, line it up carefully, then press it down softly with your finger—start with one side, then the other. You’ll know it’s in when you feel a satisfying little click.
- If your screen isn't responding to touch after the repair, try disconnecting the battery and then reseating this connector. Make sure it clicks fully into place and that the socket is clean with no dust or debris blocking the connection.
Tools Used
Step 24
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is gently stuck in position.
- Gently lift the cable until the adhesive gives way.
Step 25
- Take off the display assembly carefully.
- When putting it back together, take a moment here if you want to swap out the waterproof adhesive sealing the display edges.
Step 26
Watch out for the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of your iPhone. Keep your hands clear to avoid any accidental contact!
- Time to get your tools ready! Let's tackle those seven screws that are holding the bracket snugly beneath the Taptic Engine and speaker:
- First up, grab your trusty Y000 screwdriver for two 1.9 mm screws.
- Next, you'll need one Y000 for a 1.2 mm screw.
- Don't forget that one Y000 1.6 mm screw waiting for you.
- Now, switch to the Phillips for a 2.4 mm screw.
- Then, let's find that Phillips 1.7 mm screw.
- And finally, wrap it up with a Phillips 1.5 mm screw.
Step 27
- Gently lift the bracket starting from the edge closest to the battery. Don’t yank it off completely just yet—it’s still hanging out there connected by a tiny flex cable.
Step 28
- While keeping the bracket out of the way, gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the flex cable beneath it.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Lift off the bracket carefully.
Step 30
- Unscrew the 2.1 mm Y000 screw holding down the speaker connector cover and set it aside safely.
Step 31
- Pop off the cover that's keeping the speaker connector cozy.
Step 33
When lifting the speaker, be gentle! Make sure not to snag the flex cable you just disconnected. If needed, hold it aside to give the speaker enough space to come out easily.
- Slide your spudger under the upper edge of the speaker, right by the iPhone’s frame.
- Ease the top edge of the speaker upward with a gentle lift—no need for superhero strength.
- When putting the speaker back, double-check the flex cable is sitting pretty and not squished underneath.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grab the speaker by its edges and give it a little wiggle side-to-side to break the adhesive that's holding it snug at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Gently pull the speaker away from the bottom edge until you hear that satisfying pop of the adhesive letting go.
Step 35
- Gently lift out the speaker—no need to be shy!
Step 36
Be careful not to touch that sticky adhesive! Just hold onto the gasket by its outer edges, and you'll be golden.
- Heads up! The speaker's gasket is a one-time deal, so let’s make sure to replace it during reassembly.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel away the old gasket from both the frame and the speaker. Out with the old!
- Time to tidy up! Use a microfiber cloth and a splash of isopropyl alcohol to wipe away all that sticky residue left behind.
- Before we pop in the new gasket, let’s get it oriented just right! Look for the large cutout on the gasket—it should snugly wrap around the speaker grille mesh.
- Carefully peel off the bigger, clear liner from the gasket, then use those tweezers again to position the gasket perfectly on the bottom of the speaker.
- Now, let’s give that gasket a good, firm press into place with your fingers or a spudger. We want it to stick like it means it!
- Almost there! Remove the last liner and place the speaker back, making sure the connector doesn’t sneak under there.
Step 37
- Loosen and remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the Taptic Engine. You've got this!
Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. It's like giving it a little lift-off!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Lift out the Taptic Engine and set it aside, like a true phone-fixing legend.
Step 40
The iPhone X battery is held in place with four strips of sticky stretch-release adhesive—one at the top, three at the bottom.
- Each strip of adhesive comes with a slick black pull-tab chilling at the battery’s edge—just waiting for you to grab it.
Step 41
Be careful not to poke the battery with anything sharp. A punctured battery could leak harmful chemicals or even catch fire. Handle with care and give it the respect it deserves!
Each tab has a tiny loop in the middle. If you're having trouble getting a grip, just slip a tool through the loop for some extra help.
- Peel up the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge—like lifting the corner of a stubborn sticker. Go slow and steady!
Step 42
Be extra careful with the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab. You don’t want to accidentally yank that – it’s more delicate than it looks!
- Do the same thing for the last two adhesive tabs hanging out at the bottom edge of the battery—gently separate them just like before.
Step 43
If the strips snap, no worries! They don’t always cooperate the first time. Keep going for some handy tips on how to get those stubborn pieces off.
In these next steps, you'll gently pull each tab to gradually stretch the adhesive beneath the battery. This clever stretch-release adhesive loses its stickiness when pulled, letting you easily lift the battery out without a fuss.
- Here’s how to boost your chances of nailing it:
- If one of those strips snaps off under the battery and you can’t fish it out, just skip it and move on to the others before continuing with the steps below.
- Avoid pressing down on the battery. Grip the iPhone firmly by its sides instead.
- Keep the strips nice and flat—no wrinkles allowed—as you pull.
- Pull slowly and steadily, giving the strip some time to stretch and come loose. It usually takes about 15 to 30 seconds of gentle tugging to get each strip out.
- Pull at a low angle to stop the strip from catching on the bottom edge of the battery.
Step 44
In case any of the adhesive strips decide to play hide and seek under the battery and you can't find them, go ahead and remove the remaining strips, then carry on with the steps below.
The adhesive strip is about to show off its stretchy powers—keep pulling gently, and if your grip slips, just grab closer to the battery and keep going.
If the adhesive tabs snap, no worries. Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to fish out the remainder, and keep pulling like a pro.
- Grab one of those handy outer battery adhesive tabs and gently pull it away from the battery, heading toward the bottom of your iPhone.
- Keep the tension steady and pull with a smooth motion until the tab slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Do the same move on the other side, saving the center strip for the grand finale.
Step 46
- Gently slide out the center strip, making sure it doesn’t get caught on the speaker flex cable. Go slow—no need to wrestle with it!
Step 47
Heads up! The last pull tab is chilling right next to the Face ID hardware. If it gets messed up, only Apple can fix Face ID. So, handle it like a pro!
- Gently peel away the pull tab from the final adhesive strip located along the top edge of the upper battery cell. Take your time—it's all about the little details!
Step 48
When the strip lets go, it can send the battery flying—so keep a hand hovering over it to catch any surprises. Just don’t squish the battery, or you might snap the adhesive underneath.
Skip the brute force—if the battery’s stubborn, add a couple more drops of alcohol to loosen things up. Never stab, bend, or poke the battery with your pry tool.
Watch out for the ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil hiding right below the battery. They’re easy to damage if you’re not careful.
If the adhesive has come off underneath the battery and is playing hide and seek, don’t worry! Just drip a few drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the battery edge where the adhesive used to be. This should loosen things up.
Still stuck? No problem! Check out the next step below for some other tricks to get that battery out.
- Time to say goodbye to that last pesky adhesive strip—pull it off and toss it! You've got this!
- If you managed to successfully remove all four adhesive strips, feel free to skip ahead to the next step. You’re on a roll!
- Now, hang tight for about a minute while the alcohol solution works its magic to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. Once it’s ready, grab the flat end of your spudger and gently coax that battery out. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 49
If you decide to pry the battery out of the iPhone, take it slow and steady—those ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil underneath are delicate and don’t like surprises.
Warm up the iPhone just enough so the back feels a bit too hot to hold comfortably. Avoid overheating though, or you might accidentally light up the battery, and that’s definitely not the vibe.
- If any of those sticky adhesive strips decided to break free and your battery is still glued to the rear case, grab your trusty iOpener or a hair dryer and warm up that rear case right where the battery is hanging out.
- Now, flip your iPhone back to its front side and take a robust piece of string (dental floss or a thin guitar string works wonders) to shimmy it underneath the battery.
- Gently saw the string back and forth along the length of the battery to loosen up the adhesive. It might take a little while since the adhesive can be a bit stubborn, but with a little patience, you’ll set that battery free. Just remember, no bending or damaging the battery, please!
- To keep your fingers safe, wrap the ends of the string around a cloth or put on some gloves. Safety first!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Grab the battery by the bottom edge and gently pull it out of the iPhone. Easy does it!
- If there's any leftover alcohol solution in the phone, give it a quick wipe or let it air dry before popping in your shiny new battery.
- Pop the Taptic Engine and speaker back in place before you install the new battery. This will help keep everything aligned and smooth while you do the install.
- Before sticking that replacement battery in, temporarily plug the battery connector into the logic board socket. This ensures the battery sits perfectly in its little home.
- If your new battery doesn’t come with adhesive, no worries! Check out our guide to replace the adhesive strips easily.
- Once everything’s back together, go ahead and do a force restart. It’s a great way to avoid potential issues and makes troubleshooting a breeze.
- Stick the battery in place, disconnect it, and then just finish putting your device back together. You’re almost there!
Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to disconnect these three cables from the front camera assembly:
- The dot projector cable.
- The front camera cable.
- The infrared camera cable.
Tools Used
Step 52
The camera cables have a gentle bond with the midframe, so they should come off with a little care.
- Grab your spudger and gently slide its tip between the IR camera cable and the case, starting at the connector. We're just giving the cable a little space to breathe—no wrestling required.
- Do the same for the front camera cable. Nice and easy, just like before.
Tools Used
Step 53
- Warm things up a bit to help free the adhesive on the front camera assembly.
Step 54
- Gently lift out the front camera assembly—give it a little wiggle if needed, and set it aside like the star of the selfie show.
Step 55
- Let's get started by taking out two Phillips screws that are holding the camera bracket in place. Here’s what you need to look for:
- One screw that measures 2.3 mm
- And another screw that's 2.0 mm long
Step 56
- Grab your tweezers and carefully fold that tiny metal grounding bracket out of the way. Be gentle—don’t yank it up since it’s connected to a delicate flex cable that’s not a fan of rough moves.
Tools Used
Step 57
- Gently pop up the camera bracket starting from the side nearest the battery, then lift it off.
- When putting the camera bracket back, do it just like the pictures but backwards: first, lower the outer edge so the tab on the right slips perfectly between the phone’s case and the camera. Then, fold the bracket down over the camera module.
Step 58
- Gently pop up the two camera connectors using a plastic opening tool or your fingernail. Just lift them straight up from their sockets—no wrestling required!
Step 59
- Place the tip of a spudger into the tiny notch located at the bottom right corner of the camera module.
- Carefully pry upward to pop the camera loose from the iPhone without causing damage.
Tools Used
Step 60
- Take out the rear-facing camera module with care.
Step 61
- Unplug these cable connectors for a smooth ride:
- Say goodbye to the WiFi Antenna connector.
- Pop out the Wide-Angle Camera connector.
- Disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
- Unclip the Telephoto Camera connector.
- Remove the Dock Flex connector.
- Take out the Button / Wireless Charging connector.
- Detach the Cellular Antenna connector.
Step 62
- Gently unplug the WiFi antenna cable connector to keep things running smoothly.
Step 63
- Gently unplug the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 64
- Unplug the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector with care.
Step 65
- Unplug the Telephoto Camera cable connector and give it a gentle pull. It’s time for this little guy to take a break while you work your magic.
Step 66
- Unplug the Dock Flex cable connector with care.
- Gently bend the cable straight up at a 90-degree angle to make room for taking out the logic board.
Step 67
- Unplug that Button / Wireless Charging cable connector with care!
Step 68
- Unplug the Cellular Antenna cable connector. It's time to set it free.
- Gently move the cable aside, so it's out of your way. Keep it safe for the next steps!
Step 69
Make sure to snap that metal grounding tab back exactly how it came—no funky flips!
- Before we dive in, make sure the SIM card tray is out of the way—it's a no-go for the logic board removal if it's still in there. If you missed that step earlier, now's the time to pop it out!
- Next up, let's tackle those two Phillips mounting screws. They’re just waiting to be removed!
- Time to take out the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw. Don’t worry, it’s a quick job!
- Now, let’s lift off the grounding tab—just a little tug and it should come right off.
- Remove the 2.7 mm Phillips screw. It’s just one screw, but every little bit helps!
- Finally, unscrew the 2.1 mm Phillips screw. Almost there!
Step 70
- Once the SIM card pops out, a little pin slides out from the frame and nudges the eject lever on the SIM card carrier. You'll want to gently push that pin back into the frame so it doesn’t get in the way when removing the logic board.
Step 71
- Grab a pair of fine-tipped tweezers and gently slide the SIM card eject lever toward the edge of the case.
- When you're done, the eject lever should look like this. The pin will no longer block the removal of the logic board, making the next steps a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 72
- The logic board is held in place by two posts that go through the lower board and are connected to the upper board. To remove it, just gently lift it straight up, making sure it clears the stand-offs. Keep it smooth and steady – you've got this!
Step 73
- Unscrew the 1.2 mm Y000 screw holding the cellular antenna cable to the screen retainer. Tiny screw, big moves.
- Gently flex the antenna cable away from the edge of the case so you can reach the screws that keep the retainer locked down.
Step 74
- Unscrew the three tiny 1.5 mm Phillips screws that are holding the screen retainer in place.
- Carefully lift off the retainer and set it aside.
Step 75
If you’re in a bind, a small flathead screwdriver can step in as your hero—just keep a steady hand to avoid any accidental slip-ups that might mess with the nearby parts.
The standoff screws are a bit tricky, but don’t worry! Use a standoff screwdriver or bit to make sure they come off smoothly.
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm stand-off that’s holding the barometric vent in place.
- Gently lift off the barometric vent and set it aside.
Step 76
- Unscrew those two 2.6 mm stand-off screws holding the Lightning connector to the back of the case. It’s just a couple of twists to free it up.
- Now, remove the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the charging port to the bottom of the case. Once they’re out, you're one step closer to the finish line!
Step 78
- Keep peeling back the dock connector until it's fully separated.
Step 79
- Now it's time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse. You've got this! If you find yourself stuck, feel free to schedule a repair for a little extra help.
