iPhone XS Screen Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
The earpiece speaker + sensor assembly is a crucial part of your iPhone's display setup, and it’s custom-paired during production to fit your device. Handle it with care when working on your phone!
Got a cracked iPhone XS screen that’s not responding or showing a picture? No worries! This guide will help you get your iPhone back in action with a shiny new display assembly. Just a heads up: the earpiece speaker and sensor assembly are like your phone's best buddies and need to be transferred from the old display to the new one. They play a crucial role in your Face ID feature, so handle them with care! If they get damaged, only Apple can work their magic to restore Face ID. And remember, after swapping out the screen, the True Tone feature will take a little vacation, even if you're using an original Apple screen. If you run into any tricky spots, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!
Step 1
Hey there! Before you dive in, make sure your iPhone's battery is below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a little too lively and might cause some fireworks if you accidentally poke it. Let's keep things safe and sound while we work on your device!
When you pop open the iPhone's display, it’s like opening a treasure chest that might spill its secrets—specifically, its waterproof seals! So, make sure you've got some replacement seals on standby before diving deeper. If you decide to reassemble your iPhone without swapping out those seals, just be extra careful to keep it away from any liquid adventures!
- Before you dive in, make sure your iPhone is powered down.
- Flip it over and unscrew the two pentalobe screws (they’re 6.9 mm long) at the bottom edge.
Step 2
If you slide the pick too deep, your device might not appreciate the extra attention. Mark your pick to keep things safe and sound.
Want to get fancy? Mark different corners of your pick with various measurements for pro-level pick control.
Or go old-school: tape a coin 3 mm from the pick’s tip for an instant depth gauge.
- Grab your trusty permanent marker and measure out 3 mm from the tip of your opening pick. Go ahead and make that mark like a pro!
Step 3
Don’t forget those safety glasses! Protect your eyes from any glass bits that might shake loose during the repair.
If your iPhone's screen is feeling a bit too cracked for comfort, grab some tape and give it a little hug! This will help keep those pesky shards in check and ensure you don't end up with any surprises during your repair.
And hey, if you're really in a bind, a little superglue on that suction cup might just do the trick to keep it stuck to the screen!
- Cover the entire iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape like a pro, making sure every inch is protected.
- If the suction cup refuses to stick in the upcoming steps, no worries! Grab a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape works great), fold it into a little handle, and gently lift the screen that way instead.
Step 4
The next few steps are all about the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little gadget we've whipped up to make opening your device a breeze. If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to hop down three steps for a different approach.
For a complete rundown on how to get the most out of the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPhone's surface is feeling a bit too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a little tape can work wonders to create a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull backwards to set the Anti-Clamp's arms free.
- Slide those arms over one edge of your iPhone—pick either left or right, you’re the boss.
- Line up the suction cups near the bottom edge, with one on the screen side and one on the back.
- Squeeze the cups together so they stick right where you want them.
Step 5
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms into place.
- Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you notice the suction cups stretching just right.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups — they should stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift, give them a little wiggle, loosen the cups, and realign the arms before moving on.
Step 6
Go easy—just a quarter turn at a time, then let it chill for a minute. The Anti-Clamp’s got this, no need to rush!
You can also try using a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up—just remember, too much heat might mess with the screen or battery, so take it easy.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, give the area a bit more heat and twist the handle about a quarter turn to help things along.
- First up, warm up an iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp. Let’s get that heat working for us!
- Next, fold the iOpener and lay it right on the bottom edge of your iPhone. It’s like tucking in a cozy blanket!
- Now, let’s be patient. Chill for a minute so the adhesive can do its thing and create a little opening gap for us.
- Once that minute is up, grab an opening pick and gently slide it into the gap between the screen and the plastic bezel. Just avoid poking the screen itself!
- Oh, and feel free to skip the next three steps. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 7
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone is a clever move to loosen that stubborn adhesive holding the display in place, making the opening process a breeze.
- Grab a hairdryer or heat gun, or go for the trusty iOpener, and gently warm up the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute. This should help soften up that stubborn adhesive underneath, making it easier to handle. Patience is key, but you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 8
- Got a suction handle? Place it gently on the bottom edge of your phone. Just be sure to avoid the curved part of the glass – we don't want any slips here!
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive sealing the display is super tough—getting that first little gap open takes some serious effort. If it’s being stubborn, try heating it up a bit more and gently rocking the screen back and forth to loosen the glue until you can slip your tool in easily.
- Give that suction cup a solid upward pull—steady wins the race! You want to open up a slim gap between the front panel and the back case.
- Slide an opening pick into the space under the screen’s edge and the plastic bezel (go for the bezel, not the screen).
Step 10
Keep your pick shallow—no more than 3 mm—to avoid poking anything important inside.
- Glide your opening pick along the lower left corner, then up the left side of your iPhone—think of it like slicing through a stubborn sandwich—working through the adhesive that keeps the display in place.
Step 11
Be careful! There are sensitive cables running along the right edge of your iPhone. Using your pick here could lead to some unfortunate cable damage. Let's keep everything safe and sound!
Step 12
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no more than 3 mm—to avoid giving those delicate display cables an unwanted surprise.
- Pop your pick back in at the bottom edge of your iPhone, then glide it up the right side to keep slicing through that sticky adhesive.
Step 13
Take it easy with the clips—they're a bit delicate and can snap if you get too rough. Patience is your best friend here!
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—to avoid messing with the front panel sensor array.
The top edge of the screen is held down by a combo of stubborn glue and sneaky little clips.
- Gently work your opening pick around the top corner of the display, giving it a little wiggle and pull toward the Lightning port. Take your time, it's a delicate dance.
- Once you've got that corner, slide the pick to the other side and cut through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place. You're almost there!
Step 14
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug and lift it off the front panel. Easy does it!
Step 15
Hold off on completely separating the display just yet! A few delicate ribbon cables are still connecting it to the logic board, so take it slow and steady.
- Start by lifting the display from the left side, just like opening a book. Gently swing it open—easy does it!
- Propping up the display is a good idea! Rest it against something to keep it steady while you work your magic.
- When it's time to put everything back together, carefully place the display in position. Line up the clips along the top edge and gently press the top edge into place before you snap the rest of it down. If it doesn't click right away, check if the clips around the edges are in good shape and haven't gotten bent.
Step 16
- First off, let’s get those five screws out that are holding the logic board connector bracket in place. Here’s what you’ll need to keep an eye on:
- As you dive into this repair, remember to keep track of each screw and ensure it goes back to its original spot. We want your iPhone happy and healthy!
- Three screws that are 1.0 mm Y000
- One screw that’s 1.3 mm Y000
- And one Phillips screw measuring 3.7 mm
Step 17
The bracket might be a little stuck in its cozy spot. Give it a gentle nudge while lifting to help it break free.
- Take off the bracket.
- Before you fully seal the display back on, now’s a smart moment to power up your iPhone and check that everything’s working as it should. Once you’re satisfied, make sure to power it down completely before moving on.
Step 18
Be gentle with the black silicone seal around this and other board connections—it's like the device’s little raincoat, keeping water and dust out!
- Grab your trusty spudger or even a clean fingernail and gently lift that battery connector right up from its cozy little socket on the logic board.
- Now, give that connector a slight bend away from the logic board. This little move will help ensure it doesn’t accidentally reconnect and power up your phone while you’re working your magic.
Tools Used
Step 19
- Gently use a spudger or your fingernail to lift and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Take your time, and make sure you're not rushing it – we want this to go smoothly!
Tools Used
Step 20
- Gently use a spudger or your fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable. Take your time—it’s like a gentle break-up with your phone’s components.
- When you’re ready to reconnect, just line up the connectors and press down one side first until you hear a little click, then repeat for the other side. No need to press the middle too hard—if things feel off, the pins can get bent, and we don’t want that. Precision is key!
Tools Used
Step 21
- Grab a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently pop that digitizer cable connector up from its cozy socket.
- Now, this connector loves to hide out in a tricky spot, so take your time. Line it up just right and give it a gentle push with your fingertip—start with one side, then move to the other. You should hear a satisfying click when it’s snug!
- If your screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, no worries! Just disconnect the battery and reseat that connector, making sure it clicks firmly into place and that there’s no pesky dust or obstructions hanging around in the socket.
Tools Used
Step 22
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is gently stuck down, so don't be shy—give it a friendly nudge to loosen it up.
- Gently lift the cable until the adhesive gives way.
Step 23
- Take off the display assembly—like opening a treasure chest, but with more tiny screws.
- If you want superhero-level water resistance, this is the moment to swap out the adhesive around the edges before putting the display back together.
Step 24
- Flip the display assembly over and gently peel back any tape hiding the sneaky screw tucked away in the lower right corner of the speaker housing.
Step 25
- Let's kick things off by removing the three Y000 screws holding down the speaker and sensor assembly:
- One screw at 1.3 mm
- One screw at 1.4 mm
- One screw at 1.9 mm
Step 26
The speaker is still connected by a super thin flex cable, so handle it with care. Give it some space and avoid putting too much strain on it. A little caution goes a long way!
The earpiece speaker is just gently stuck in place, so it should come off without too much hassle.
- Grab your spudger and gently pop up the top edge of the speaker assembly, then flip it over—like you're opening the coolest secret compartment—down and away from the top edge of the display.
Tools Used
Step 27
- Grab a hairdryer or heat gun, or whip up an iOpener, and gently warm the top front of the display for about a minute. This will help soften the adhesive holding those sensors in place, making your job easier and smoother!
Tools Used
Step 28
- Sneak the edge of your opening pick gently under the flex cable, right below the microphone. Take your time—no rush here!
- Give the pick a little twist to loosen the microphone, but keep things chill so the flex cable doesn’t get stressed out or damaged.
- For those stubborn microphones, grab the pointy end of your spudger and finish the job, popping it out from its notch in the front panel. If it’s still playing hard to get, add a bit more heat and try again.
Tools Used
Step 29
Go ahead and lift the speaker up gently so you can reach everything underneath. Keep an eye on that delicate flex cable—no tug of war moves while you’re working!
- Start from the left side and slide an opening pick under the flex cable, making your way beneath the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module.
- With a gentle wiggle and a lift, you'll separate the module from its cozy spot in the front panel.
Step 30
The sensor is still hanging on by a super thin flex cable. Be gentle with it – no sudden moves or tension, or you might end up with a broken connection.
If the sensor’s holding tight, blast it with a bit more heat and give it another gentle wiggle.
- Grab your tweezers and gently shimmy the ambient light sensor out of its notch in the display. Give it a little lift—no need to wrestle.
Tools Used
Step 31
- If you’ve wrangled the entire ambient light sensor out (like in the first photo), you’re good to move on to the next step.
- If the white diffuser strip decided to hang back in the display (see the second photo), grab a thin blade or pry tool and gently coax it out along the top edge. A little heat can help loosen things up if it’s feeling stubborn.
- Putting things back together? Pop the diffuser into the display first—make sure it’s facing the right way (front side is in the first image, back side is in the third).
- Next, place the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You’ll need to hold it steady while you put the screws back in for the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once those screws are tightened, the sensor will stay put and work as usual.
Step 32
- Before you dive into action, give your shiny new replacement part a good look next to the old one. You might need to swap over some bits or peel off those pesky adhesive backings from the new part before you get to work!
- Putting your device back together? Just reverse those steps like a pro, and you'll be golden!
- Got some old electronics lying around? Don't just toss them—take them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let's keep our planet happy!
- Things not going as smoothly as you'd hoped? No worries! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips and tricks. And remember, if you hit a wall, you can always schedule a repair to get back on track!
