MacBook Pro 13″ Unibody Mid 2010 Logic Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 27 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: if you find yourself feeling a bit lost or overwhelmed, don’t hesitate to reach out for some extra help. You can always schedule a repair with us!
Time to swap out the logic board in your MacBook Pro 13″ Unibody Mid 2010! Let’s dive in and give your device the refresh it deserves. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Unscrew the 10 pesky screws holding the lower case of your MacBook Pro 13″ Unibody in place.
Step 2
– Gently lift the lower case and slide it towards the back of your device to release those tricky mounting tabs. You’ve got this!
Step 3
Just a friendly heads-up: to keep things safe and sound, go ahead and disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. This will help prevent any unexpected electrical surprises.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge that battery connector upward, freeing it from its snug little home on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 4
Check out the fan socket and connector in the second and third pictures. Just a friendly reminder: when you’re using your spudger to gently lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket, be super careful not to snap off that plastic fan socket from the logic board! The layout of the logic board in the second picture might look a bit different from your device, but don’t worry—the fan socket is the same.
A little twist of the spudger from underneath those fan cable wires can work wonders to pop the connector free!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it to lift the fan connector out of its cozy home on the logic board. You’re doing great!
Step 5
– Unscrew the three screws listed below:
Step 6
– Gently lift the fan out of the upper case, giving it a little wiggle if it’s feeling snug.
Step 7
– Take hold of the plastic pull tab that’s keeping the display data cable lock in place and give it a gentle twist toward the DC-In side of your device.
– Carefully slide the display data cable connector out, keeping it parallel to the board. You’ve got this!
Step 8
– Let’s get started by unscrewing those two screws holding the display data cable bracket to the upper case. You got this!
– Now, gently lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case. Easy peasy!
Step 9
– Gently nudge the subwoofer and right speaker connector away from the logic board using the flat end of a spudger. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 10
This socket is made of metal and can be a bit wobbly, so be gentle with it. Make sure to line up the connector just right with its socket on the logic board before you bring them together.
– Gently tug the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to free it from the logic board. You’re doing great!
Step 11
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors off the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 12
– Time to get your fingers in on the action! Gently use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up that little cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and slide that keyboard ribbon cable right out of its cozy socket. You’ve got this!
Step 13
– Gently remove the little strip of black tape that’s holding down the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket. You’ve got this!
Step 14
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for that keyboard backlight ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a little finesse, use your spudger to slide that keyboard backlight ribbon cable right out of its cozy socket. Easy peasy!
Step 15
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery indicator cable connector and lift it up off the logic board with care.
Tools Used
Step 16
– Grab the tip of your trusty spudger and gently work it under the microphone to detach it from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the upper case. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 17
– Unscrew the following screws:
Step 18
While it’s not absolutely necessary to remove the battery before taking out the logic board, doing so can make the process smoother and safer. If you decide to keep the battery in, just be extra cautious not to accidentally bend the logic board against the battery’s casing near the barcode. You’ve got this!
– Time to say goodbye to those pesky Tri-point screws holding the battery in place. Grab your screwdriver and get to it!
– Once those screws are out, gently lift the battery out of its cozy home in the upper case. You’re doing great!
Step 19
– Gently lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports are clear of the upper case. You’re almost there!
– Carefully pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case to remove it, keeping an eye on the DC-In board that might try to tag along. You’re doing great!
Step 20
Each of these screws is holding onto a little spring, so keep an eye on them! Losing one would be a bummer.
– Time to get those tiny screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the four 8.5 mm screws holding the heat sink snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 21
When you’re putting that heat sink back on the logic board, don’t forget to slather on a fresh layer of thermal paste! It’s super easy, and we’ve got a guide that’ll help you nail the thermal paste swap like a pro.
– Carefully lift the heat sink away from the logic board, like you’re unveiling a secret compartment.
Step 22
– Gently peel back the tape that’s holding down the microphone cable connector and the left speaker cable connector. You’re almost there!
Step 23
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker connector and pop it up from the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 24
– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the microphone cable connector off the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 25
– Gently lift the left speaker/microphone assembly away from the adhesive that’s holding it snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– Gently unplug the DC-In board by pulling its connector away from the logic board’s socket. You’ve got this!
Step 27
These little tabs are the secret agents that hold the chip snugly in place. Give them a gentle push to release, and watch the chip pop up like a surprise party!
If you’ve got a second RAM chip in the mix, just rinse and repeat this process. It’s as easy as pie!
– Give those tabs on each side of the chip a little nudge by pushing them away from the RAM at the same time. They’ll pop right open!
– Once the RAM chip has lifted up, just pull it out of its socket in a straight shot. Easy peasy!
– Now, you’re left with the logic board. You’re doing great!
