Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Right Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 28 Steps
Heads up! There’s a pretty good chance the delicate, unreinforced display panel might crack under pressure during this step, so proceed with care and a steady hand.
Ready to swap out or remove the right speaker on your Microsoft Surface Pro 5? Just a heads-up: there’s a chance the display panel might break during this process since it’s a bit fragile. Take it slow, apply some heat, and be super careful when prying it open. You’ll do great! If you run into trouble, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Totally shut down your Surface before diving into the teardown adventure.
Need extra warmth? Grab a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but go easy on the heat! The screen and internal battery aren’t fans of being toasted.
You might find yourself needing to give the iOpener a little extra love by reheating and reapplying it a few times to get that Surface nice and toasty. Remember to check the iOpener instructions to keep things from getting too hot to handle!
– Got a cracked screen? No worries! Keep the shards in check and protect yourself while you tackle that repair by slapping some tape over the glass. Just lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape all over the display until it’s fully covered. And hey, don’t forget to wear safety glasses to keep those peepers safe!
– Now, grab an iOpener and give it a warm-up on the right edge of your Surface’s screen for about two minutes. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 2
– Take a mental snapshot of how the adhesive is laid out on the screen—this’ll come in handy as you move forward!
– These spots are adhesive-only zones, so it’s totally safe to slice through them.
– Watch out! The display board and flex cables are hanging out near the edge here. Be gentle, cut carefully, and don’t push that pick too deep under the display.
– Heads up: there are delicate antenna cables chilling under this part of the screen. Stick to the steps and tread lightly to avoid wrecking them. Oh, and heads up again—the adhesive here is extra thick!
Step 3
Be careful not to push the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Pushing it too far could risk damaging the LCD. Take it slow, and you’re good to go!
– Slide an opening pick into the speaker slot on the screen and gently work it under the glass. Be careful not to poke into the speaker grille—it’s delicate and can tear easily.
Step 4
– Tilt the pick down toward the bottom edge of the Surface and glide it under the lower part of the speaker cutout—smooth moves, no stress!
Step 5
If you feel like the pick is stuck and not budging, pause for a sec and reheat the area you’re working on. Forcing it could lead to a cracked glass situation—and no one wants that.
– Glide your pick down the right edge of the Surface and slice through that stubborn adhesive holding the screen in place—like slicing through butter, but with a little extra finesse.
– Keep that pick snugly in the right edge to stop the adhesive from playing any sneaky tricks and resealing itself.
Step 6
Feeling the heat? A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can kick things up a notch, but play it cool—overheating the Surface could make your screen and battery go on strike!
Keep your cool, but warm up the Surface! You might have to reheat and reapply the iOpener a few times to get it just right. Stick to the iOpener instructions so nothing gets too hot to handle.
– Warm up your iOpener and then let it do its magic on the bottom edge of the Surface’s screen for about two minutes. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 7
Keep it chill—don’t slide the opening pick in deeper than the black bezel along the screen’s edge. Going too far could mess with the LCD, and nobody wants that!
– Pop a fresh opening pick into the bottom right corner and glide it smoothly around to the bottom edge—it’s like drawing with a pen, but way cooler.
– Now, take that pick and swipe it along the bottom edge to slice through the sticky screen adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Leave that pick hanging out in the bottom edge like a doorstop—this’ll keep the adhesive from playing its sticky tricks again.
Step 8
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate for some extra warmth, but watch out—too much heat can be a real bummer for your Surface. The screen and internal battery are sensitive to overheating, so keep it cool and steady!
Keep your cool, but warm up the Surface! You might have to reheat and reapply the iOpener a few times to get it just right. Stick to the iOpener instructions so nothing gets too hot to handle.
– Warm up that iOpener again, then give the left side of your Surface’s screen a cozy two-minute heat treatment. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
Watch out while working under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge! Keep that opening pick from diving deeper than 1/8 inches (3 mm) here—this area is where the display cables hang out, and they’re pretty vulnerable. Once you’ve breezed past the display cable zone, remember not to poke the pick too far beyond the bezel. Smooth moves only!
– Pop a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and glide it around the edge like you’re slicing cake—toward the left side.
– With steady vibes, drag the pick down the left edge of the Surface to work through that stubborn screen adhesive.
– Keep that pick snug in the left edge to stop the adhesive from acting clingy and resealing itself!
Step 10
Feeling the heat? A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can kick things up a notch, but play it cool—overheating the Surface could make your screen and battery go on strike!
The adhesive is thickest along this edge, so you might need to heat up and apply the iOpener a few times to get the Surface nice and warm. Just follow the iOpener instructions carefully to avoid overheating, and you’ll be good to go!
– Warm up the iOpener again and gently press it along the top edge of the Surface’s screen for a couple of minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
Now it’s time to tackle the top edge of the case. The next 6 inches (15 cm) are home to the left and right antennas, which are snugly sandwiched between the case and the screen bezel. Let’s get through these next steps with care – we don’t want any accidental antenna damage!
– Swing that opening pick around the left corner and glide it smoothly across the top edge of the Surface. Pause when the pick is chillin’ 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge. Keep it steady and you’re golden!
Step 12
Keep that pick cruising along parallel to the screen the entire time so it doesn’t snag the antennas. And hey, no need to jam it against the case—just let it glide!
– Slide the tip of your pick under the display where you just finished cutting—easy does it, no need to go deeper than the edge of the bezel.
– Give the pick a gentle roll to the right, pressing its long edge into the sticky screen adhesive under the bezel. Slice through that adhesive nice and smooth, but don’t drag the pick along the edge—keep it steady!
– Keep repeating: insert the pick tip where you just cut, roll it to the right, and slice your way across the top edge of the Surface. Stop when your pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.
Step 13
– Snip through the adhesive over the antennas (about 8.5 inches or 22 cm from the left edge), then smoothly glide that pick along the top edge. Keep it groovin’ around the top right corner to tackle any leftover adhesive—you’re almost there!
Step 14
Hold your horses! The screen is still hanging out with the motherboard via two cables, so let’s not take it off just yet.
– Gently and slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you feel any resistance, pause and make sure all the adhesive has been fully separated.
– Grab an opening pick to carefully slice through any stubborn adhesive still holding things together.
– Heads up! The flash lens might just fall out of the Surface case. No worries—just keep an eye on it and pop it back into its spot when you’re putting everything back together.
Step 15
– Gently lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while coaxing the bottom of the screen closer to those shiny motherboard display connectors.
– Carefully lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Remember, be gentle with those display cables—no creasing allowed!
Step 16
Be gentle with that shield—keep it in good shape, ’cause you’ll need to pop it back on later.
– Grab an opening pick and gently tease up one edge of the EMI shield that’s hanging out over the display board.
– Work your magic around the shield by prying at different spots until it pops off. Keep at it—you’ve got this!
Step 17
– Gently lift the EMI shield off the display board and set it aside. Easy as pie!
Step 18
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the display interconnect cable and lift it straight up and out of its socket on the board. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be gentle with the shield—it’s got a job to do when putting everything back together!
– Carefully insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the digitizer connector – it’s time to set it free!
– Use those trusty tweezers to gently pry the EMI shield away from the display. Be patient and work your way around, taking care not to bend it.
– Repeat this process at different points around the shield until it’s completely free. Once you’ve managed that, you can remove the shield – nice job! If you’re feeling stuck, don’t worry, just take a deep breath and remember, you’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 20
– Gently peel away the rest of the shield from the digitizer connector and slide it off like a pro.
Step 21
– Gently pop the digitizer connector out of its socket on the screen using the tip of a spudger—like you’re unlocking a tiny treasure chest. Take your time and keep it smooth!
Tools Used
Step 22
– Carefully detach the screen assembly from the Surface—easy does it, no rushing!
– When putting it back together, take a moment here to follow the guide for replacing the screen adhesive. It’ll ensure your device is sealed up tight and ready to roll!
Step 23
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the microphone connector straight up out of its socket on the motherboard—no need to strong-arm it, just a little finesse does the trick!
Tools Used
Step 24
– Grab your trusty T5 Torx driver and let’s get those screws out! You’re removing the four screws holding the antenna support in place:
– Three screws measuring 4.5 mm—short and sweet.
– One screw that’s 6 mm—slightly longer but no sweat!
Step 25
– Grab your spudger and gently lift the antenna support out of its snug little home in the Surface.
– Now, carefully remove the antenna support. It’s time for it to take a break!
Tools Used
Step 26
– Take your trusty spudger and with a little finesse, lift that right speaker connector straight up and out of its cozy socket on the motherboard.
Tools Used
Step 27
– Grab your trusty T5 Torx driver and unscrew the two screws holding the speaker in place:
– One screw, 6 mm
– One screw, 3.7 mm
Step 28
– Double-check your replacement part against the original—sometimes, you’ll need to move over components or peel off adhesive backings before getting it in place.
– Ready to put everything back together? Just work backwards through the steps you followed earlier.
– When you’re done, make sure to dispose of your e-waste responsibly. Find an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler nearby.
– Things not going as expected? Take a moment to troubleshoot, or ask our community for some advice.
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