Microsoft Surface Pro 6 Antenna Support Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 25 Steps
Heads up! The display panel is pretty delicate and doesn’t have much reinforcement, so there’s a real possibility it could crack during this step. Take it slow and steady!
Ready to tackle your Microsoft Surface Pro 6 antenna support? Heads up: the display panel is pretty fragile and easy to crack if you’re not careful. Take your time, use plenty of heat, and go slow when prying—gentle hands win this round!
Step 1
– Cracked glass? No worries! First, let’s prevent any further damage and keep yourself safe. Grab some clear packing tape and lay it over the screen in overlapping strips until the entire glass is covered. Don’t forget your safety glasses to protect your eyes while you work.
– Heat up that iOpener and place it on the right edge of the Surface’s screen for about two minutes. Give it time to warm up and make the next steps a breeze!
Make sure to power down your Surface completely before you start taking it apart. If you need a little extra heat to loosen things up, a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can do the trick—but don’t get too carried away. Overheating can damage the screen and internal battery, so keep it gentle and controlled. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
You might need to zap that iOpener in the microwave a few times to really get things toasty. Just stick to the iOpener directions so things stay safe and smooth.
Tools Used
Step 2
– Take a quick peek at the screen adhesive layout before moving on:
– These areas are all about the adhesive—no worries here, it’s safe to cut through.
– You’ll find the display board and flex cables near the edge. Be super careful and don’t push the pick too deep under the display.
– Fragile antenna cables hang out just under this part of the screen. Follow the steps closely here to keep them safe. Oh, and the adhesive is extra thick in this spot, so take your time!
Step 3
Be careful not to push the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel around the screen. Going too deep might cause some damage to the LCD. Keep it safe and steady!
– Gently slide an opening pick into the speaker slot on the screen and carefully work it under the glass. Be cautious not to push too hard into the speaker grille—it’s fragile and can tear easily!
Step 4
– Gently rotate the pick and guide it toward the bottom of the Surface, slipping it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout. Take your time, and remember, you’re doing great!
Step 5
As you continue, if the pick starts to feel like it’s fighting back, take a pause and give the area another heat boost. Don’t force it! Too much pressure could crack the glass. Patience is key!
– Gently slide your pick along the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive hiding beneath the screen.
– Leave that pick in place along the right edge to keep the adhesive from sealing itself back up.
Step 6
– Heat up your iOpener again and place it gently on the bottom edge of your Surface’s screen. Let it work its magic for two minutes!
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate for a little extra warmth—but go easy! Too much heat can mess up the screen or battery, so keep it gentle.
You might need to give the iOpener a few rounds of heat to really get that Surface warmed up. Just make sure to follow the iOpener instructions closely so you don’t overdo it. Keep it safe and warm!
Tools Used
Step 7
When inserting the pick, stay shallow—only go as far as the black bezel on the side of the screen. Pushing too deep could end up damaging the LCD, and nobody wants that!
– Pop a new opening pick into the bottom right corner and gently slide it around the edge, working your way toward the bottom. No rush, just a smooth move!
– Slide the pick along the bottom edge to break through that sticky screen adhesive. It’s like cutting through butter—easy does it.
– Leave the pick hanging out in the bottom edge to keep that adhesive from sealing back up. We’re almost there!
Step 8
– Warm up the iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of the Surface’s screen for about two minutes. Keep it in place to soften the adhesive and make the screen easier to lift. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can give you that extra boost of heat, but be careful not to go overboard—your Surface’s screen and battery are heat-sensitive and could get damaged if things get too toasty.
You might need to warm up and reapply the iOpener a few times until the Surface reaches the right temperature. Just follow the iOpener instructions carefully to keep from overheating. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 9
Be cautious when cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Keep your opening pick to a shallow 1/8 inches (3 mm) in this area. The display cables are tucked right under here, and they can get damaged easily. Once you’re past the cable area, don’t push the pick any further than the bezel.
– Pop a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and cruise it around the bend toward the left side.
– Glide your pick up along the left edge to slice through that sticky screen adhesive.
– Let the pick chill in the left edge to keep the adhesive from closing back up.
Step 10
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it on the top edge of your Surface’s screen. Let it chill there for about two minutes to work its magic.
Using a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can help provide extra heat, but be cautious not to overdo it—excessive heat can damage the Surface’s screen and internal battery. Keep the temperature in check to avoid any mishaps. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
The adhesive tends to be extra stubborn along this edge, so you might need to give the iOpener a few extra sessions of heat and love to get things warmed up just right. Be sure to follow the iOpener instructions carefully to avoid overheating.
Tools Used
Step 11
Heads up! The top 6 inches (15 cm) of the case are home to the left and right antennas, tucked right between the case and the screen bezel. Take it slow with the next steps—you don’t want to accidentally mess with those antennas.
– Glide your opening pick around the left corner and cruise along the top edge of the Surface. Pause when your pick is about 2.75 inches (70 mm) from the left edge.
Step 12
Keep the pick parallel to the screen throughout the whole procedure so that it doesn’t catch on the antennas. Do not press the pick against the case.
– Slip the tip of your pick under the display at the spot where you just finished cutting. Don’t go any deeper than the edge of the bezel—think shallow, not deep-sea diving.
– Gently roll the pick to the right, using the long edge to slice through the adhesive that’s keeping the screen stuck under the bezel. Pro tip: Don’t drag the pick along the edge—just roll, don’t stroll.
– Keep repeating this smooth move: poke the pick in where you last cut, then roll it to the right, working your way along the top edge of the Surface until you’re about 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge. Almost there!
Step 13
– After you’ve sliced through the adhesive near the antennas (about 8.5 inches or 22 cm from the left edge), grab your pick and slide it all the way along the top edge. Don’t forget to round off that top right corner to slice through any leftover adhesive and keep things smooth sailing.
Step 14
Do not remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.
– Carefully lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case—slow and steady wins this race! If it feels stuck, pause and double-check for any stubborn adhesive.
– Take an opening pick and slice through any last bits of adhesive that are holding on for dear life.
– Heads up: the flash lens might make a break for it and fall out of the case. Keep an eye on it and make sure it finds its way back to its cozy cutout when you put everything back together.
Step 15
– Gently lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard’s display connectors.
– Carefully lay the screen flat on the case with the connectors facing up, making sure not to crease any display cables. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
Be careful not to bend the shield too much—it’ll need to go back in place when you’re putting everything back together!
– Grab an opening pick and gently lift one corner of the EMI shield that’s covering the display board.
– Then, work your way around the shield, lifting at different points until it’s completely free and out of the way.
Step 17
– Gently lift the EMI shield off the display board and set it aside.
Step 18
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the display interconnect cable and lift it out of its socket on the board. Take your time and be careful not to rush!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be gentle with the shield! You’ll need it later when putting everything back together, so try not to bend it out of shape.
– Grab a pair of pointed tweezers and carefully insert one point into a gap along the edge of the EMI shield covering the digitizer connector.
– Gently use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the display, being careful not to bend it.
– Repeat this process at different points around the shield until it’s completely free. Once it is, remove the shield.
Tools Used
Step 20
– Gently peel the rest of the shield away from the digitizer connector and set it aside.
Step 21
– Gently pop the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen using the tip of your spudger.
Tools Used
Step 22
– Gently lift the screen assembly off your Surface. You’ve got this!
– When you’re putting everything back together, take a quick break here and check out our guide to swap out the screen adhesive.
Step 23
– Grab your spudger and gently pry the microphone connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard. Easy does it—lift it out carefully to avoid any damage. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 24
– Grab your T5 Torx screwdriver and gently remove the four screws holding the antenna support in place: three measuring 4.5 mm and one at 6 mm. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair to get help with the tough spots.
Step 25
– Before you get to installing, give your new part a quick comparison with the old one—you might need to transfer any leftover components or peel off some sticky backings.
– Ready to wrap things up? Just work your way backwards through the steps you took earlier to put everything back together.
– Got e-waste? Make sure to dispose of it responsibly by taking it to a certified recycler like one that’s R2 or e-Stewards certified.
– Things not going as planned? No worries—give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or feel free to check in with our Answers community for extra tips and tricks.
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