Motorola Moto G6 Headphone Jack Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 19 Steps
The Motorola Moto G6 rocks a headphone jack for plugging in your favorite headphones or earbuds. If your tunes are sounding fuzzy, super quiet, or not coming through at all, your headphone jack might need a swap. This guide walks you through replacing that jack—no previous repair skills needed. You’ll be using tools to pop open the back, remove some screws and plates, and do a little soldering. The guide is for model XT1925-12, but also works for XT1925-4, XT1925-5, XT1925-6, and XT1925DL. Before you dive in, back up your info with the Rescue and Smart Assistant app to check if you’re dealing with a hardware or software hiccup. Make sure your phone is powered off and unplugged, then grab the tools listed below along with a fresh Moto G6 headphone jack. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.
Step 1
Make sure to power off your phone before diving in.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up—just keep an eye on the heat to avoid cooking your phone. Both the screen and battery don’t like getting too toasty!
Got a cracked rear glass? No worries, just cover it with packing tape to keep those glass shards from causing any harm.
Need a little extra heat to get your phone warm? Reheat and reapply that iOpener a few times, and be sure to follow the instructions to avoid overheating – we want to fix that phone, not fry it!
– If you can, drain the battery before taking things apart. A charged battery can turn into a hot mess if it gets damaged or overheated during the repair.
– Grab an iOpener and heat up the back of the phone along the bottom edge for about two minutes, or until it feels just a bit too warm to handle. This helps loosen the adhesive holding the rear glass in place.
Tools Used
Step 2
If the glass is cracked, the suction cup might not want to stick around. Try giving it a hand with some strong tape, or carefully superglue the suction cup in place and let it set before moving on.
You might need to put in a bit of muscle, but remember, you only have to pry open a tiny gap with the suction cup to slide your tool in.
– Let’s get started by applying a suction cup to the bottom edge of the rear glass – this will be your trusty sidekick for the next few steps.
– Now, gently pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a tiny gap between the rear glass and the frame. You’re making progress!
– Next, carefully insert an opening pick into the gap you just created under the rear glass. This is where the magic happens!
– If you’re having a little trouble, don’t worry! Just apply some extra heat to loosen up the adhesive, and try again. Remember, the adhesive cools down quickly, so you might need to heat it up a few times to get it just right. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair with the experts at Salvation Repair.
Step 3
– Now it’s time to get that rear glass off. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to carefully cut through the adhesive holding it in place.
Take it easy and slice carefully as you approach the corners. The curved glass on the left and right edges is super sensitive, so be gentle—pushing the pick too hard can easily crack it.
Sometimes that sneaky adhesive likes to stick itself back together after you cut through it. To keep it from causing trouble, just leave your pick in place along the edge you just cut, and grab a new pick for the next side. Keep this pattern going—leave a pick in each edge and continue with a fresh one each time.
Step 4
– Warm up the right edge on the back of your phone to loosen the sticky stuff holding it down.
Step 5
– Now it’s time to get this repair started! Slide the pick along the right edge of the rear glass to loosen the adhesive underneath. Take your time and work carefully to avoid any damage.
Step 6
– Gently heat up the top edge of the back of your phone to soften that stubborn rear glass adhesive. A little warmth goes a long way to make the next steps smoother. Take your time, and if you’re feeling unsure, remember, help is just a click away – you can always schedule a repair.
Step 7
Take it easy and go slow at the corners—those curves on the left and right edges are glass, not gymnastics mats. If your pick puts too much pressure there, the glass could crack. No need for drama, just steady hands!
– Now it’s time to get that rear glass off! Slide the pick along the top edge of your phone to carefully cut through the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 8
– Warm up the left edge on the back of your phone—this loosens up that stubborn adhesive and makes your next move way smoother.
Step 9
– Gently slide a pick along the left edge of the phone to carefully cut through the rear glass adhesive. Take your time here, and let the pick do the work – no need to rush!
Step 10
– If the glass is being stubborn, don’t worry! Just re-heat and slice the adhesive until it loosens up.
– Now it’s time to carefully lift the rear glass, making sure it’s completely separated from any sticky adhesive.
– Remove the rear glass and set it aside – you’re making great progress!
– When you’re putting everything back together, take a quick pause to replace the adhesive on the rear glass with a precut adhesive card or some strong double-sided adhesive tape, like Tesa 61395.
– After you’ve closed up your device, give the adhesive a little extra love by stacking something heavy on top – like a textbook or two – for 30-60 minutes. This will ensure a strong bond and get your device working like new again. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 11
Try to keep the tape in one piece if you can. It’ll come in handy when it’s time to put everything back together!
– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift off the black tape that’s covering the battery. Take your time, no rush!
– Once it’s up, just pull the tape away. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 12
– Let’s get started by removing the plastic cover – you’ll need a Phillips driver to take out seventeen screws that are holding it in place:
– First, remove the eleven grey 3 mm-long screws – these are the most numerous, but don’t worry, it’s a breeze!
– Next up, take out the five black 2.5 mm-long screws – they’re a bit shorter, but just as important
– Finally, remove the one silver 3.5 mm-long screw – this one’s a bit longer, but you’ve got this!
Step 13
– Start by sliding the pointed end of a spudger into the notch at the top left edge of the plastic cover.
– Gently pry upward with the spudger to lift the upper edge of the cover and free the clips holding it in place.
– Carefully remove the plastic cover, and you’re good to go!
Tools Used
Step 14
– Time to get started! Use your trusty opening tool to carefully pop up the three press-fit connectors located in the bottom right corner of the motherboard. Take your time and make sure they’re completely released.
Step 15
– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the battery connector out of its spot on the motherboard.
– Before moving forward, double-check that all four connections shown in the third picture are unplugged.
Tools Used
Step 16
– Grab your opening tool and carefully disconnect the press-fit connection on the top left of the motherboard—this step is pretty similar to what you did earlier.
– Next, gently use your fingernail or a pair of tweezers to pull out the connector that’s boxed in orange. Remember, this one’s a bit different—it gets pulled down, not up, so be sure to give it a careful tug.
Tools Used
Step 17
– Take out the two black 2.7 mm screws holding down the motherboard.
Step 18
– Carefully slide the motherboard out of its spot.
– When putting everything back together, make sure the motherboard sits snugly beneath all the connectors, and double-check that the cameras and the red-marked piece stay exactly where they belong.
Step 19
Need a hand with soldering? Check out this guide for some smooth moves.
– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse.
– If you run into any trouble, you can always schedule a repair for expert help.
