Replace Google Pixel XL Motherboard
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
This repair guide comes straight from the talented folks at Salvation Repair and isn’t officially backed by Google.
Just a heads up: the Pixel XL’s display panel is a bit of a delicate flower, so handle it with care!
This repair guide was created by the awesome team at Salvation Repair and isn’t affiliated with Google. Need a little help with the repair process? We got you! If you’re having trouble getting your phone back in tip-top shape, consider replacing the motherboard. The Pixel XL’s screen can be a little delicate, so be careful. It’s attached with some strong adhesive, so take your time. Just remember to apply some heat and be extra careful when prying. And if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool, a SIM eject bit, or even a good old paperclip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole located on the left edge of your phone, just a smidge from the top.
– Give it a little press to pop that tray out!
Step 2
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to help out, just be sure to keep an eye on the temperature! Overheating your device might make the display and battery cranky, and we definitely don’t want that. Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Get your iOpener hot and put it on the top edge of the screen for a couple of minutes.
– Before you start prying, check out these areas:
– The thin adhesive on the side of the screen
– The thick adhesive
– The OLED display panel, which is super sensitive to damage
– The display cable, which can get damaged during prying. Careful!
Tools Used
Step 3
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: keep that pick under 13 mm (0.5 inches) to avoid hurting your display assembly. You got this!
If you’re having trouble getting started, try using a playing card as a makeshift opening pick to help you make that initial entry point. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Alright, time to get this party started! Gently warm up that edge until it’s nice and toasty. Then, stick a suction cup right next to the edge.
– Now, give that suction cup a little lift and sneak an opening pick into the gap. It’s like a little dance!
– If things aren’t moving smoothly, just give that edge another quick warm-up and try again. You got this!
Step 4
Be careful when cutting – don’t go deeper than 13 mm (0.5 inches) to avoid damaging that beautiful display.
There’s a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement, be gentle so you don’t damage or misplace it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Let’s get this party started! Slide that opening clip across the top edge to slice through the adhesive. It’s like a tiny, helpful knife!
– Now, keep that opening pick in the edge so the adhesive doesn’t stick back together. We want to keep things open, right?
Step 5
Watch it, buddy! Don’t stick that pick more than 1 mm along the edge or you’ll hurt the display. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Warm up that iOpener and let it chill on the right edge of your phone for about two minutes.
– Slide an opening pick into the top edge of the phone, right where you’ve already loosened the adhesive.
– Gently guide the pick around the right corner like you’re tracing a line.
– Carefully glide the pick down the right edge of the phone to cut through that pesky adhesive.
– Now, let’s do the same on the left edge of the phone!
Tools Used
Step 6
Keep your slicing skills in check—don’t go deeper than 8.5 mm (1/3″) or you might just end up tangling with the display cable. Trust us, that’s not the kind of surprise you want!
– Give the bottom edge a warm embrace with an iOpener for two minutes.
– Slide a pick in near the right edge where you’ve already loosened the sticky stuff.
– Gently guide that pick around the corner like a pro.
– Now, slide the pick along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive like butter.
Tools Used
Step 7
Hey there! Just a heads up: don’t try to take off the display assembly just yet! It’s still snugly connected by a flex cable.
– After you’ve made your way around the edges of the phone like a pro, gently lift up the display assembly a bit from the right corners.
– Grab an opening pick and slice through any leftover adhesive like it’s butter!
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: be gentle with that flex cable while you swing the assembly around. We want it to stay happy and healthy!
– Time to get this repair started. Carefully lift the display assembly from the top end, then gently swing it around so it rests upside down on the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 9
Keep your screws in check and return each one to its starting lineup. Need an assist? You can always schedule a repair.
– Let’s get started by removing the two 4 mm T5 screws that hold the display cable bracket in place.
– Now that the screws are out, you can remove the display cable bracket – easy peasy! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 10
Alright, time to reconnect those press connectors. It’s like a little dance! Gently line them up on one side and press down until you hear a satisfying click. Then, repeat on the other side. No need to press in the middle, just those edges. We don’t want to bend those tiny pins! That would be a real bummer. If you’re having trouble, no worries. You can always schedule a repair.
– Now it’s time to carefully disconnect the display cable – use the point of a spudger to gently pry it up from its connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 11
– Alright, let’s get that display assembly out of there! It’s showtime!
– For a complete guide on putting that new Pixel XL display back in, check out this step-by-step guide schedule a repair
– If your new display didn’t come with a speaker grille, don’t worry! Use those tweezers to gently peel the grille off your old display. Then, just stick it onto your new display. Easy peasy!
– Before you go putting that new display in, make sure to get rid of all that old adhesive. Use a spudger or opening tool to scrape it off, and then use some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to remove any leftover residue.
– If you’re putting the same display assembly back in, make sure to get rid of all that sticky stuff from the panel and the frame before you put on some new adhesive.
– Don’t forget to turn on your phone and test out your handiwork before you put on new adhesive and seal up the phone. You want to make sure everything is working like a charm!
– After you put everything back together, your phone will go through a screen calibration sequence. Don’t touch the screen during this process. If you do, your touch calibration could get messed up, and you might have some touch issues.
Tools Used
Step 12
– Let’s get started by removing the screws that hold the midframe snugly against the back. Here’s what you’ll need to tackle:
– Seven stylish black 4 mm T5 screws
– Two chic silver 3 mm T5 screws
Step 13
– Alright, let’s get this party started! The midframe is held in place by some pretty stubborn plastic clips that hook into the back case. Don’t worry, we’ve got this!
Step 14
– Locate the tiny notch in the bottom left corner of the frame and gently slide in your trusty opening pick.
– Carefully glide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone, making your way towards the bottom right corner, and let it rest there.
Step 15
Don’t worry if this part gets a little tough – it’s supposed to be a tight fit. If you’re having trouble, try using a playing card to help it slide into place. Remember, it’s all about patience and the right technique. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Slide a trusty opening pick into the right edge of your phone, close to the bottom. It’s like giving your device a little nudge!
– Gently wiggle that pick upwards along the seam until you hear the satisfying sound of the first clip popping free. You’ve got this!
– After you free the clip, keep that opening pick in place to keep the midframe from trying to seal itself back up. You’re on the right track!
Step 16
Don’t go overboard with that pick! Just a little peek, about 2 mm, is all you need. If you go too deep, you might accidentally give those flex cables a little pinch. Not cool, right?
Time to free up that right edge of the midframe! If it’s still hanging on, give it a little wiggle with that opening clip. Slide it up and down along the edge, and it’ll be free in no time. You’ve got this!
– Pop an opening pick into the right edge of your phone and slide it up towards the top right clip.
– Gently glide the pick past the clip to unhook it from the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 17
– Get a good grip on the right edge of the midframe by the corners and carefully pry it up – it’s like opening a stubborn jar, but easier!
– When the left edge starts to feel loose, stop prying and gently lift the midframe upwards – you’re making great progress!
– Now it’s time to remove the midframe – this is the part where you get to see what’s inside!
– To put the midframe back, align it with the case and squeeze it around the edges until all the clips snap back into place. If it lies flat, you’ve done it right! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 18
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that battery connector. You’ve got this!
– Give the battery flex cable a little bend to keep it from accidentally making friends with the motherboard. Safety first!
Tools Used
Step 19
Don’t worry, sometimes those little metal clips like to take a vacation! Just line up that clip and gently push it back into its groove. It’ll be right as rain in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 20
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape at the top of the interconnect cable like you’re unveiling a surprise. Let’s get that cable ready for action!
Step 21
– Now it’s time to carefully disconnect the interconnect cable from the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to gently pry it up and release it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 22
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry away the black antenna cable from the motherboard, just near the front-facing camera module. Easy peasy!
– Now, let’s give that antenna cable some freedom by guiding it out of its retaining clip. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 23
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up that white antenna cable from the motherboard, right by the rear-facing camera module. You’ve got this!
– Now, let’s free that antenna cable from its little retaining clip and give it some room to breathe.
Tools Used
Step 24
– Start by taking out those two 3 mm T5 screws that are holding the motherboard to the frame. It’s like unbuckling a seatbelt, but for your tech!
– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure that both camera modules and the headphone jack module are snug in their sockets before you fasten down the motherboard. We want everything to fit just right, like a comfy shoe!
Step 26
– Time to get this repair started. Insert the point of a spudger into the headphone jack port and gently pry upwards – this will help loosen the port from its socket. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 27
Hold up, don’t try to remove the motherboard just yet. There’s still a flex cable keeping it connected, so let’s take care of that first. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Make sure to pop out that SIM card tray before diving into this step!
– Now, take that trusty spudger and give the bottom edge of the motherboard a little nudge. Just a gentle pry to loosen it up. You’re basically giving it a little wiggle room!
Tools Used
Step 28
– First things first, find that sneaky fingerprint sensor cable hiding on the underside of the motherboard, right near the bottom edge.
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and gently pry that cable free from its cozy socket.
– Once it’s loose, carefully peel the cable away from the motherboard like you’re unwrapping a present!
Tools Used
Step 29
If you’re finding it tricky, don’t worry! Just follow this guide to gently pop out the fingerprint sensor from its cozy home before connecting it to the motherboard. You’ve got this!
– Gently grip the motherboard by its corners and wiggle it out of its snug little home, being super careful not to snag any sneaky cables.
– When putting everything back together, remember to tuck both antenna cables snugly under the motherboard edges and guide them through those handy cable notches.
– Reconnecting the fingerprint sensor connector can be a bit of a puzzle, so take your time during reinstallation.
– Give the fingerprint sensor cable a gentle bend to create a little upward bow near the connector.
– Stand the motherboard up like a champ and line it up so the connector can cozy up to the socket.
– Take a moment to align the connector with your finger and gently press it into the socket. No need to go all Hulk on it! If you’re spot on, the socket will give the connector a warm welcome.
