Replace Xbox Series X Southbridge Board: Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 50 Steps
Shut it down and unplug all those cables!
Ready to replace the southbridge board on your Xbox Series X? Let’s power down and unplug all the cables from the console before we dive in. Make sure to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures to keep everything shock-free. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before you dive in, make sure to totally power down and unplug all the cables from your console. Safety first, right?
Step 2
For a smoother removal, heat the sticker with an iOpener or hair dryer.
Just peel the sticker enough to access the hidden screw. No need to remove it entirely.
These are tamper-evident stickers, but no worries—Microsoft can’t legally void your warranty as long as you don’t damage anything. Enjoy the process!
– Grab your trusty blunt tweezers and gently lift that big sticker on the back panel to uncover screw number two.
Tools Used
Step 3
Throughout this repair, keep an eye on every screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from. We don’t want any surprises with your console! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those two 7.4 mm-long screws holding the back panel in place. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Grab the back panel at the opening you just made and gently pull it up and away from the shell to release those long edges.
– When putting it all back together, give a little press along the edges of the back panel to snap it back into place.
Step 7
The back panel easily fits into a cozy little slot at the top of the shell.
– Lift the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge to free it from the gap.
– Take off the back panel.
Step 8
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get those screws out! Start by removing the three screws that are holding the fan snugly to the center chassis:
– One 10.5 mm pancake screw
– Two 8.8 mm screws
Step 9
Remember to grab those cables by their connectors, not by the wires! Keep it classy and safe. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Time to get your hands a little techy! Grab those fingers or some blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the fan cable connector. A little tug upwards will do the trick to free it from the center chassis.
– As you put everything back together, just make sure to tuck that fan cable snugly under its small cable guide on the fan housing. This way, it won’t get in the way of the back panel. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 10
When swapping out your fan, keep in mind that the new fan might not come with the plastic installation bracket. That little piece is fastened to the fan with four T10 Torx screws and isn’t shown in this guide. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 12
Keep that locking tab open as you kick off the base installation—it’s like giving it a little hug!
Once you’ve got it locked in, that ‘Hello from Seattle’ line will stand tall and parallel to the sides of your device.
– Grab the base and give it a twist to the left—this will unlock it from the shell!
– Now, go ahead and lift that base out.
– When you’re putting things back together, just drop those base tabs into their cozy little holes on the shell, then twist to the right until you hear that satisfying snap into the locking tab. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 13
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and remove the two 8.8 mm screws that keep the optical drive’s vibration isolator in place. One screw is on the base, and the other is on the top. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 14
The vibration isolator holds onto the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you might need to give it a bit of a wiggle to slip it off each side. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently lift the optical drive’s vibration isolator to set it free.
– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure to nudge the vibration isolator down and around both edges of the optical drive. It should fit snugly with the rest of the center chassis, like it was meant to be there!
Step 15
Remember, always pull cables by the connectors, not the wires! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently hold on to the edges of the optical drive power connector. A little tug upwards will do the trick to disconnect it from the optical drive.
– Now, using your fingers, give that data cable a little lift and disconnect it from the optical drive. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 16
If the drive isn’t lined up just right, the top vibration isolator won’t fit like a glove, and the disc reader might end up a bit off-kilter with the front of the console. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back!
– Grab the top edge of the optical drive and gently pull it out of its cozy slot in the shell. It’s time for a little extraction!
– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to line up the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the shell’s bottom. It’s like a puzzle piece fitting right in!
Step 17
Handle those ribbon cables and their connectors with care—they’re a bit delicate! Gently open the locking tabs and take your time pulling the cables. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip open that metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just give that metal locking tab a gentle snap to secure it once the cable is in place. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 18
Gently tug on the pull tab, but remember, the cable is not your friend in this moment!
If the USB port cable seems to be stuck to the metal chassis, give it a little warmth with an iOpener or a hair dryer. Depending on your Xbox model, you might also want to slide an opening pick under the cable to help break that adhesive bond. Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift that black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but leave the cable alone! It’s not a tug-of-war.
Remember, don’t yank on the cable without pressing the metal tab first. Otherwise, you might end up giving the cable or connector an unwanted vacation!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently press down on that metal tab on the side of the power button cable’s board connector. You’ve got this!
– Once that tab is down, take your tweezers and give that pull tab a little lift to release the power button cable from the center chassis. Easy peasy!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just pop that cable in place and listen for a light ‘snap’ as it settles in. You’re a pro!
Step 20
– Grab that T8 Torx driver and pop out the three 7.4 mm screws holding the center chassis assembly to the shell. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 21
Depending on your Xbox model, the adhesive might be hiding on the underside of the cable. If that’s the case, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm things up a bit.
– Carefully lift the taped USB port ribbon cable from the heatsink like you’re peeling off a sticker. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 22
The middle frame has some guide pegs that line up with the shell. To lift the chassis out, you’ll need to slide these pegs out of their slots.
– Grab the center chassis and gently pull it towards the cheerful green fan grille at the top of the shell, releasing those guide pegs from their cozy home.
– Carefully lift out the center chassis assembly to free it from the shell.
– When putting everything back together, keep an eye on those ribbon cables—make sure they don’t get squished as you lower the center chassis into the shell.
Step 23
– Pop the chassis strap loose from the right side of the power supply. You’ve got this!
Step 24
– Guide that strap right over the power supply and let it slip off like a pro!
– Once you’ve freed that strap, give it a nice resting place to hang out while we move on.
Step 25
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and pop out the three screws holding the power cable port to the chassis:
– Two screws, 13.1mm each
– One screw, 35mm
Step 26
– Gently lift the power connector out of its snug little spot in the chassis. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 27
– Pop open the lid on the plastic guide for the power cable like a pro!
Step 28
– Gently pull the power cable free from its cozy spot beneath the extra section of the cable guide.
Step 29
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and gently twist out that 8.8 mm screw holding the power supply corner cover in place. You’re doing great!
Step 30
Depending on your Xbox model, this cover might not be part of the package.
– Use your fingers or tweezers to gently lift off and remove the power supply corner cover. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 31
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and gently unscrew those three 9.6 mm screws holding the accessory antenna board snugly to the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Grab the antenna board and pull it straight out from the center chassis to unplug it.
– When putting it back together, line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and press to snap it back in. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 33
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and remove those nine screws holding down the board shield like a pro:
– Six black screws, 8.8 mm
– Two silver screws, 35 mm
– One silver screw, 13.1 mm
Step 34
– Gently lift the board shield to pop it off from the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– Unclip the chassis strap from the locking tabs on either side of the power supply. Easy peasy!
Step 36
– Take off the chassis strap.
Step 37
Be sure to grab those cables by their connectors and not the wires! Your gadgets will thank you for it.
– Give a gentle squeeze to the locking tab on the 10-pin power connector. You got this!
– While keeping that tab pressed, smoothly lift the connector straight up to free it from the board. Easy peasy!
Step 38
– Grab and squeeze the locking tab on the 2-pin power connector.
– While squeezing the locking tab, lift the connector straight up to unplug it from the board.
Step 39
– Pop open the lid on the power supply’s plastic cable guide.
Step 40
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those four screws holding the power supply in place like a pro:
– You’ll find three shiny 35 mm silver screws waiting to be freed
– And don’t forget that one 8.8 mm black screw that’s also eager to join the party
Step 41
– Let’s kick things off by unplugging the power supply!
Step 42
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and take out those three 8.8mm screws that are holding down the Wi-Fi antenna board. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 43
Hold up! Make sure the antenna board is fully disconnected before you pull it up.
– Grab hold of that antenna board and give it a tug away from the center chassis to pop it loose.
– Take out the antenna board.
– While putting it back together, line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and press it back into place.
Step 44
Depending on your model of Xbox, the interconnect cable locking tab might be centrally located. If so, jump ahead to the next step.
When the locking tabs are pressed correctly, the interconnect cable will slide out easily with minimal effort.
– Get a good grip on the base of that interconnect cable connector with your fingers. You’ve got this!
– Press down on each side of the connector to release those little cable locking tabs. Easy peasy!
– With the tabs pressed down, hold onto the edges of the interconnect cable and gently pull it straight out to disconnect it. Nice and smooth!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, the interconnect cable should click right into place when you fully insert it. You’ll hear that satisfying snap!
Step 45
– Give that locking tab a pinch with your fingers, like a gentle hug for your interconnect cable connector.
– While showing the tab some love, slide the flat end of a spudger between the top of the socket and the connector’s tab.
– Twist the spudger to lift the connector out of its socket until the clip in the center says goodbye.
– Pull the connector straight up and out of its socket using your fingers.
– When putting it all back together, pop the interconnect cable connector into its socket and press down on both edges until it clicks back into place. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 46
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready! It’s time to unscrew those seven 8.8 mm screws that are holding the southbridge board shield in place. Let’s do this!
Step 47
– Lift the central chassis away from the motherboard and heatsink assembly.
– As you’re removing it, guide the interconnect cable through the cutout on the central chassis.
Step 48
– Time to take off that board shield! Let’s get it out of the way so we can see what’s underneath. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 49
– Gently lift up to slide the power supply cable guide off the southbridge board. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 50
– Pop out the southbridge board from the center chassis.
– Give your replacement board a once-over to see if it already has power and data cables. If not, just snag them from the old board and pop them onto your new one.
