Samsung Galaxy S III LCD Display Front Glass Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 40 Steps
Heads up, tech whiz! Make sure you’ve got your tools ready and your workspace clear. It’s time to dive into this repair with some gusto!
Alright, gear up for a bit of DIY adventure! This guide is your go-to if you’ve already tackled the front glass removal using our guide (check it out here: Samsung Galaxy S III Broken Front Glass Replacement). If your LCD display has gone kaput or you’re feeling brave and want to bond the LCD to your new glass with some clear glue, it’s easier to do with the display out. Just a heads up, this isn’t for the faint-hearted! While your phone will survive the surgery, the display might not be so lucky if it’s already throwing tantrums. Opt for an iOpener instead of a heat gun to dodge any heat damage when removing the front glass. Follow this guide to remove the front glass but skip steps 12-15, as those are for reattaching the glass, and you won’t need those just yet.
Step 1
You can totally nail the next four steps without a plastic opening tool, but hey, if you want to keep those clips on the rear case happy and intact, using one might just be your best bet!
– Wedge a plastic opening tool or your fingernail into the notch on the top of your phone where the back case meets the frame.
– Give the tool a gentle twist to pop open the clips that are holding the top of the rear case in place.
Step 2
– Glide the plastic opening tool to the left along the top edge and give it another twist to further separate the rear case from the phone. Keep the groove going!
Step 3
– Keep grooving with that plastic opening tool! Work it around the top left corner’s edge, gently lifting up the rear case as you go. Keep the vibes high and the prying gentle!
Step 4
– Start your prying adventure on the top right corner of the rear case and shimmy your way down the right side. Keep going—you’re doing great!
Step 5
You might have to wiggle the case a bit to unclip it from those pesky clips still clinging to the bottom of your phone.
– Gently elevate and whisk away the rear case from the phone. Voila!
Step 6
– Gently press the SIM card further into its slot with your fingernail until it clicks.
– Once you hear the click, let go and the card will spring out of its slot.
– When putting it back together, just push the SIM card into the slot until you hear that satisfying click.
Step 7
– Gently use your thumb to slide the SIM card out just enough to get a good grip on it.
– Now grab that SIM card and smoothly pull it out from the phone.
Step 8
– Nudge your microSD card a bit further into its nook with your fingernail until you hear that satisfying click.
– Once you hear the click, let go, and watch the card spring out, ready to be free!
– When putting it back together, just press the microSD card into its home until you hear a reassuring click.
Step 9
– Give that microSD card a gentle nudge with your thumb and watch it slide right out of its cozy little slot.
– Now, go ahead and lift that microSD card out of your phone like a pro!
Step 11
– Grab your plastic opening tool and let’s pop that back case off! It’s going to lift away with a satisfying ease.
Step 13
Hey there, just a heads up, Sprint USA is all cool without the need for a SIM card.
– Got a SIM card? Let’s pop that little guy out. Give it a gentle push until it clicks, then slide it out with style.
Step 14
– You’re doing great! Now, you might be tempted to jump straight to the heat gun, but taking out the motherboard first could be a smooth move for extra safety.
– Opting to remove the motherboard? Just follow the steps in the Samsung Galaxy S III Motherboard Replacement guide. It’s packed with all the juicy details you need.
Step 15
Patience is key here, so channel your inner zen master and take it slow.
– Warm up the surface with an infrared thermometer to a cozy 170-180° F (about 70-80° C), just enough to soften the glue without frying the electronics.
– Keep the heat gun about 3 inches away from your device (it might look closer in the picture). With the heat set to low, gently heat the edges for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on your heat gun’s mojo.
– Be cool and careful with the heat gun—too much heat can turn your device’s digitizer into a gooey mess and cause some funky discoloration. Spot any weird color changes? Power down immediately.
– If you’re rocking a hair dryer instead, be prepared to hang out for up to an hour. Patience is key!
Step 16
– Grab a guitar pick or a plastic opening tool and start prying open the edges of the glass with gentle finesse, like you’re strumming a gentle tune on a guitar.
– Work your way from top to bottom like you’re reading a good book.
– Keep the heat gun handy and give it a whirl multiple times as you ease the glass apart. For those extra crunchy, broken glasses, tread lightly to avoid any LCD heartbreak.
Step 17
Kick things off at the top edge of the screen and shimmy your way down to the center, gently ungluing the screen from top to bottom. Tuck in some opening tools as you go to stop that sneaky glass from getting too cozy with the LCD again.
– Take extra care as you approach the bottom, the menu buttons are cozying up to the glass!
– Hold up! Don’t yank the glass out just yet or you might tug on some important cables. Gently pull the screen from top to bottom until you can peek at the menu and return button cables.
Step 18
– Be extra careful in this step—watch out for the buttons and cable! Use a spudger to gently pry the buttons off from the back of the glass. You might need to apply a bit more heat here. A good tactic is to start underneath the black ribbon linking the buttons, then wiggle sideways to ease each button free.
– *Edit* Big shoutout to the super cool person who added those missing pictures ^__^
Tools Used
Step 19
– Wiggle out that old, broken glass. With some luck, it might even come out all in one groovy piece.
– Dealing with a glass jigsaw puzzle? Grab those tweezers and pick up the tiny shards one by one, or slap some tape on the glass to lift it off more easily. Screen protectors work wonders too!
Step 20
– Grab that nifty little metal piece from your old glass—it’s a keeper! Make sure to pop it into your new screen assembly. It’s like a little treasure moving from one home to another!
Step 21
– Let’s get that stubborn glue off the edges! Grab a microfiber cloth, add a dash of WD40 or windex, and wipe away all that sticky mess.
– Now, slice up two tiny 1mm strips of sticker tape and use them to stick those buttons right back onto the phone. Secure them well so they don’t plan any escape!
Step 23
– Remove the plastic from your brand-new glass without touching the inner surface—let’s keep those smudges away!
– Both sides of the glass are rocking thin protective layers. Peel them off before setting the glass onto your phone—like unwrapping a present!
Step 24
Give that glass a good look-see in the light to ensure it’s absolutely streak-free before slapping it on. If the packaging left some gnarly marks, just spritz it with some glass cleaner, wipe it down, and let it air dry before you proceed.
– Peel off that pesky paper from the sticker tape and slap on the new glass. Give the edges a firm press to make sure it sticks like a charm!
Step 25
– Unscrew the ten 4.0 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the midframe attached to the front panel assembly.
Step 27
– Grab your trusty spudger and give that display data cable a gentle nudge off the motherboard. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
– Keep cruising along the edge of your phone
– Slide your card down towards the bottom, popping in picks on the sides to boost the display lift as you go
– If you pull out your card and picks and spot a separation that matches the second picture, you’re on track!
Step 32
– Time to give those touch buttons a little freedom from the case! If they seem to be sticking around like unwanted party guests, just give them a gentle nudge until they’re dancing solo.
Step 33
– When you reach the bottom, carefully remove the bottom left corner before lifting the right side.
– This is necessary because the connection cable, which runs through the case, is located on the right.
– Use a pick to gently separate the cabling from the case without exerting too much force.
Step 36
If it’s being a bit stubborn, pop the iOpener back on top to melt that pesky adhesive. Keep it cool, you’ve got this!
– Grab your spudger and, like a ninja, carefully lift the black lock on the connector.
– Now, gently slide the cable out of the connector like it’s a VIP pass to the backstage.
– Take your pick and, with the finesse of a cat burglar, separate the touchscreen cable from the display.
– There’s a chip glued to the display at this point, but no worries! Just slide a pick under it to say ‘see ya’ to the glue.
Step 38
This might take several tries with some heat and a little prying, so hang in there! The more patiently you work, the bigger the piece you’ll manage to peel off each time. With a bit of luck and finesse, you might just get it all off in one (or maybe three) smooth moves.
– Alright, it’s cleanup time!
– That sticky double-sided tape from the old display probably clung on for dear life, didn’t it?
– Warm it up with the iOpener to make it more cooperative.
– Gently use the picks to lift the edges, then peel that stubborn tape off the case.
Tools Used
Step 39
Step 40
– For putting it all back together