Samsung Galaxy S10 Rear Facing Camera Module Replacement Guide

– Grab a SIM card eject tool, SIM eject bit, or an unbent paperclip and pop it into the little hole on the SIM tray, which you’ll find at the top edge of your phone, right next to the plastic antenna band.

– Give it a firm push to pop the tray out.

– Take out the SIM card tray.

– When you’re putting the SIM card back in, make sure it’s lined up just right with the tray. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Before you start, make sure to unplug and power off your phone.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of the back cover for two minutes.

– While waiting, check out the image of the back cover and take note of where the adhesive is located.

– Set the warmed-up right edge of your phone on a sturdy object that’s about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick. This will give your phone a nice angle for the opening tool to do its magic.

– Hold the left edge of the phone with your fingers to keep it steady while you pull on the suction cup with a solid grip. We want to keep things in place!

– Gently insert the edge of an opening tool into the gap between the back cover and the frame. You’re doing great!

– With the opening tool snugly in the seam, move it back and forth to help loosen that back cover. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Warm up that iOpener and let it chill on the same edge of your phone for a solid two minutes.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of the phone, aiming for the center of the right edge (that’s where the adhesive likes to play nice).

– Give that suction cup a strong, steady pull to wiggle open a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap and get ready to work your magic!

– Glide the opening pick along the phone’s edge, slicing through the sticky stuff.

– Keep a pick in the seam to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat things up by applying a warm iOpener to the bottom edge of your phone for a cozy two minutes.

– Get ready to dive in! Slide an opening pick into the right edge, right near the bottom corner.

– Carefully maneuver the pick around the corner. Keep slicing along the bottom edge and wrap it around the bottom left corner like a pro.

– Leave that opening pick in place to keep the adhesive from playing any tricks and re-sealing.

– Keep the heat and precision going as you smoothly work around the remaining edges of the phone.

– After you’ve made your way around the phone with a slice, give a little twist with an opening pick at one of the edges to help coax that back cover away from the frame.

– Gently lift the back cover like it’s a delicate treasure. If there’s any stubborn adhesive left, use those opening picks to slice right through it.

– Now, go ahead and remove the back cover completely.

– Here’s a great moment to power up your phone and check if everything’s working like a charm before sealing that back cover back on. Just remember to power it down completely before diving back into the repair!

– Follow this guide to reinstall the back cover, transfer and install the camera bezel, and put down some fresh adhesive.

– Pop out those eight 4 mm Phillips screws holding the top midframe to your phone.

– Alright, so the midframe is still hanging out with its plastic clips like it’s at a party around the edge.

– Grab your spudger and slip it into the notch on the cool right edge of the midframe, near that volume up button.

– Now, let’s gently pry up to set the midframe free from the phone.

– Gently lift the midframe from the top corners and carefully remove it from your device.

– When it comes to putting the top midframe back in place:

– Take your trusty spudger and slide the flat end under the battery connector nestled near the rear-facing camera on the motherboard. We’re about to make a connection!

– Gently pry upwards to separate the connector from its cozy socket. Just a little bit of upward pressure does the trick!

– Now, with a light touch, push the battery’s flex cable away from the motherboard socket, ensuring it doesn’t accidentally make contact. Safety first!

– Get ready to say goodbye to those seven 4 mm Phillips screws holding down the lower midframe.

– Slide the point of a trusty spudger beneath the top right corner of the lower midframe.

– Give it a gentle lift to free the midframe from the phone.

– Go ahead and grab the loosened end of the midframe with your fingers and give it a little lift upwards, nice and slow.

– Give that midframe a gentle wiggle to help those remaining edge clips pop right out.

– Now, let’s remove the lower midframe. Fun fact – the loudspeaker hangs out in the lower midframe!

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge it under the display connector to lift it away from the motherboard socket, which you’ll find chilling in the bottom right corner of your phone. Remember, no need to rush – take your time and be gentle!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it under the headphone jack’s connector. Pry it up carefully to disconnect it from the motherboard socket, and you’re one step closer to success!

– Unscrew the three 3.7 mm Phillips screws that are holding the motherboard in place. You’ve got this!

– Slide the tip of a spudger under the right edge of the motherboard, close to that volume down button you’ve been eyeing.

– Gently pry upwards to free the motherboard from its snug little home.

– Slide the spudger tip under the bottom left corner of the motherboard.

– Gently lift to release the motherboard from its slot.

– Alright, let’s get a grip on that motherboard! Use your fingers to hold it by the top corners.

– Now, give it a gentle swing to ease it out of its cozy spot. Just a heads up—watch out for any cables that might get snagged!

– With a little wiggling, pull the motherboard toward the top edge of the phone. This should help loosen the charging port from its snug socket.

– Once the charging port is free, go ahead and remove that motherboard with confidence!

– And when you’re ready to put the motherboard back in, just follow the steps in reverse!

– Turn the motherboard over with a smile.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to give a little nudge and disconnect the two camera connectors from their snug sockets on the motherboard.

– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the rear camera module for one minute. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Take your trusty spudger and slip it under the top-left corner of the camera module, right where you’ll find a little notch.

– Gently pry up to nudge the camera module loose from the motherboard.

– Gently slide the edge of your trusty opening tool underneath the corner of the camera module that’s feeling a bit loose.

– Carefully pry it up to detach the camera module from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get that rear-facing camera module out of there!