Samsung Galaxy S20+ Front Facing Camera Module Replacement Guide

– Get your iOpener ready and gently warm up the back cover’s bottom edge for a couple of minutes.

– Get that suction cup ready and stick it on the back of the device, right in the middle at the bottom.

– Give that suction cup a good, firm tug to make some space between the back cover and the frame.

– Take that trusty opening pick and slide it into the gap. Let’s do this!

– Gently glide the pick along the bottom edge, back and forth, to cut through that sticky adhesive.

– Keep your opening pick nestled in the seam to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up an iOpener and give the left edge of your back cover a cozy two-minute warm-up. It’s like a spa day for your device!

– Grab a suction cup and stick it on the back of your phone, aiming for a spot near the center of the left edge.

– With a good grip, pull steadily on the suction cup to start creating a little space between the back cover and the frame.

– Now, take the pointed end of an opening pick and carefully slide it into that gap you created.

– Gently slide the pick under the edge of the glass, give it a little tilt downwards, and then confidently push it in to fully remove the back cover’s adhesive.

– Gently glide your pick along the left edge of the phone to break free the back cover’s adhesive.

– Keep that pick nestled under the left edge of the glass to stop the adhesive from making new friends!

– Don’t be shy! Warm up a friendly iOpener and give the right edge of the back cover a nice cozy hug for two minutes.

– Stay groovy as you start by placing a fun little suction cup on your phone’s back, near the top right edge. With your inner Luke Skywalker force, gently pry open a path using the power of an opening pick. Channel your best Han Solo coolness to accomplish this daring repair mission.

– Gently slide the pick along the right edge of your phone to break the adhesive holding the back cover in place. You’ve got this!

– Once you’re in, tuck that pick under the right edge of the glass near the top of your device to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. Nice job!

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently glide the pick from the right edge of the device around the top right corner with a touch of finesse.

– Keep cutting along the top edge all the way around to the left edge to completely separate the back cover adhesive.

– Gently lift off the back cover with a smile on your face! Use those cool opening picks to cut through any leftover adhesive with style.

– Bid farewell to the back cover as you remove it like a pro.

– Hey, just a friendly reminder for the reassembly phase:

– Alrighty, let’s get this motherboard bracket loosened! Gather your Phillips #00 screwdriver and prepare for some satisfying smallscrew extraction. Remember those six 4 mm-long screws? This is one 👀 you for! Have fun and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and give that motherboard bracket a gentle lift to unclip it from the plastic midframe. You’ve got this!

– Lift the motherboard bracket with care to reveal the vibrant orange battery connector.

– Get ready to rock and roll as you use a spudger to gently lift and disconnect the battery connector!

– Get in there and pry up that wireless charging coil connector with a trusty spudger. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently coax the wireless charging coil away from the device, just like peeling a sticker off a fresh laptop.

– Carefully remove the wireless charging coil and set it aside.

– When putting everything back together, start by reconnecting the charging coil and battery connectors. Tighten those motherboard bracket screws to keep everything in line, and then give the coil pad a firm press to make sure it sticks like a good friend.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and let’s tackle those three 4 mm-long screws giving the upper midframe a tight hug.

– Gently slide the pointed end of your trusty spudger into the little notch on the right side of the upper midframe and give it a gentle pry to pop those clips loose. They’ll thank you later!

– Now, carefully lift off the upper midframe and set it aside. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to reattach, align those connectors just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing down in the middle, though! Misalignment can bend the pins and that’s a no-go. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Splash on some high-octane isopropyl alcohol (over 90% if you can find it) around the edges of the front-facing camera module. This will work its magic to loosen up that pesky adhesive holding it in place.

– Give the alcohol a moment—about 1-2 minutes—to work its way into the adhesive. Patience is key!

– Hey there, rockstar! Let’s take a little peek at the front-facing camera module. Give that spudger a little squeeze to lift the bottom edge of the camera, no need to break a sweat. Bye-bye, camera module! If you want to keep it in the fam, no worries, just stick it back on with some adhesive. If you’re feeling fresh, slap on a new pre-cut sheet to keep things tight and secure. You got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– If you’ve taken out the camera module’s inner parts without the plastic casing, don’t fret! Just dab a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (over 90% is your friend here) around the edges of that casing to loosen up the adhesive holding it snugly in place.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull out that plastic camera casing. You’ve got this!