Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra Rear Camera Replacement Guide

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps

Get ready to swap out the rear camera on your Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra! This guide is tailored for the SM-G998B/DS (international) model, but if you’re rolling with a different version, keep in mind that there’s an extra antenna cable hanging out near the midframe. While it’s not crucial to disconnect the interconnect cables for a screen replacement, we recommend doing it anyway. It makes getting the motherboard out and putting everything back together a breeze! Just a heads up: if you skip replacing the adhesive seals during reassembly, your device will still work like a charm, but it might lose a bit of its water resistance. So, when you’re putting things back together, make sure to grab some replacement adhesive to keep everything snug as a bug!

Step 1

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a warm hug against the back cover for at least three minutes. This will help melt away the adhesive’s grip underneath, making your job a whole lot easier!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener
  2. Heat Gun

Step 2

– First things first, grab a suction handle and stick it to the bottom edge of the back cover, making sure it’s as close to the edge as possible.

– Now, gently lift the back cover using the suction handle to create a little gap between it and the frame. Just a tiny space will do!

– Once you’ve got that gap, slide an opening pick into it.

– Next, glide that opening pick over to the bottom left corner to slice through the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the opening pick in place so the adhesive doesn’t decide to play peek-a-boo and reseal itself.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener
  2. Suction Handle

Step 3

– Pop in a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.

– Gently glide that opening pick over to the bottom right corner to cut through the adhesive.

– Keep those opening picks in place to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 4

– Time to spice things up! Grab your third opening pick and show that bottom right corner who’s boss!

– Gently slide your opening pick along the right edge like a pro chef slicing through butter.

– Let’s keep things cozy up in the top right corner with our opening pick to make sure that adhesive doesn’t try to sneak back.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 5

– Gently slip in a fourth opening pick just beneath the upper right corner of your device.

– Glide the opening tool along the upper edge to neatly separate the adhesive.

– Keep the opening pick snug in the upper left corner to prevent the sticky stuff from sealing back up.

Step 6

– Slide a fifth opening pick under the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently glide the opening pick down the left edge of the back cover to cut through the last bits of adhesive.

Step 7

– Hello there! First, let’s remove that back cover and get a good lookie-loo at what’s hiding underneath. Isn’t this exciting? Then, make sure you turn that phone on and give all its functions a test drive before you put it back together. Don’t forget to switch it back off when you’re done tinkering! Just a couple more easy peasy steps to clean up and you’ll be on your way. Need some extra help? No worries, buddy! You can always schedule a repair and we’ll be there in a jiffy!

Step 8

– Slide an opening pick under the left bottom corner of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. You’re doing great!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom left edge of the assembly to detach it from the battery. Keep it up!

Step 9

– Get ready to show some love to your device! Slide that trusty opening pick under the bottom end of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom of the assembly, gently coaxing it away from the loudspeaker. Your device will thank you for it!

Step 10

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the charging coil connector straight up from its socket. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 11

– Grab a spudger, and let’s give that NFC antenna some space to breathe! Carefully disconnect it by gently lifting the connector straight up from its cozy little socket.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 12

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those five 3.9 mm-long screws holding the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly in place. You’ve got this!

Step 13

– To gently remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly, grab a pair of tweezers or use your fingers with care.

Step 14

– Grab a spudger and gently dance it under the battery cable to release it from its cozy socket.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 15

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those four 3.9 mm-long screws holding the loudspeaker assembly in place. You’ve got this!

Step 16

– Gently slide a spudger into the little space between the top of the loudspeaker assembly and the midframe. Just a little nudge, you got this!

– Now, use your trusty spudger to lift that loudspeaker assembly up by angling it downwards. It’s like giving it a tiny boost!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 17

– Get ready to say goodbye to the loudspeaker assembly!

– When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to add fresh adhesive where it’s needed after giving those areas a good clean with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Step 18

– Alrighty, grab a spudger and let’s gently disconnect that display flex cable. Delicately pry the connector straight up from its socket. You got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 19

– Time to work some magic! Grab your trusty spudger and delicately disconnect those main and interconnect flex cables from the motherboard. Gently pry their upper connectors up from their sockets – just like a pro!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 20

– Grab your spudger and pop the bottom connector of the interconnect flex cable off the daughterboard socket.

– Gently lift the interconnect flex cable out using your fingers or tweezers.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 21

– Get your spudger ready to disco! Disconnect the main flex cable from the daughterboard by prying its bottom connector straight up from its socket like a pro!

– Time for some delicate work—use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to smoothly remove the main flex cable.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 22

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle this task! It’s time to unscrew the four 3.9 mm-long screws holding the earpiece speaker and laser AF module assembly in place. You’ve got this!

Step 23

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the connectors of the laser AF module and earpiece speaker flex cables straight up from their sockets. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 24

– Get ready to jazz it up! Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grab the bottom right corner of the earpiece speaker and laser AF module assembly. Now, groove it upwards with care.

– It’s time to rock and roll! Remove the earpiece speaker and laser AF module assembly like a boss!

Step 25

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry those in-display fingerprint and antenna flex cables up from their sockets—just like lifting a stubborn lid off a pot! You’ve got this!

– Now, carefully wiggle both connectors to the side to release the motherboard. Think of it as giving the motherboard a little stretch—nothing too intense!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 26

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the front facing camera cable connector straight up from its socket. It’s like giving it a little lift—nothing too dramatic, just a friendly nudge!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 27

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the power button flex cable right out of its socket. It’s like giving it a little hug to say goodbye!

– Now, with a gentle touch, bend the connector to the side to set the motherboard free. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 28

– Alrighty, techies! Time to get your camera module on with this 3.9 mm screw, loosey-goosey! Unscramble that screw with your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s Free Willy that camera! Need some help? No prob, just head over to schedule a repair and we’ll have it sorted out in a snap!

Step 29

– Slide a spudger under the top edge of the motherboard, right next to the vibration motor. You’ve got this!

– Gently use your spudger to lift the motherboard by tilting it downwards and giving it a little twist to the side. Keep it steady and you’ll be golden!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 30

– Gently extract the core of your device.

Step 31

– Grab a spudger and carefully pop up the ultra wide camera flex cable connector from its socket. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 32

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the telephoto camera flex cable off the rear side of the motherboard. Just pry that connector straight up from its socket, and you’ll be on your way to a successful repair!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 33

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the wide and second telephoto camera flex cables by prying their connectors straight up from their sockets. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 34

– Easily separate the motherboard from the rear camera assembly using a handy pair of tweezers.

– When putting things back together, make sure to add fresh adhesive in the right places after giving them a good clean with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Step 35

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and gently twist out the 3.5 mm-long screw that’s holding the rear camera assembly in place. You’ve got this!

Step 36

– Get ready to rock and roll by using a pair of blunt tweezers or your fingers to carefully part ways with the triple lens assembly from the telephoto camera.

– Time to bring the party by applying fresh adhesive during reassembly to jazz up those areas after giving them a good cleaning with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

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