Samsung Galaxy S24 Front Camera Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step DIY

– First things first, let’s give your phone a little break! Power it down completely and make sure all those pesky cables are unplugged.

– Let’s warm up that back cover! Get your iOpener nice and toasty, then apply it to the right edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes. You’ll want to give it a good two minutes to make sure everything’s nice and loose.

– First, attach a suction handle to the back cover, positioning it as close to the center of the right edge as you can.

– Next, give the suction handle a firm, steady pull to create some space between the cover and the frame. You got this!

– Now, take an opening pick and carefully insert it into the gap you just created. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Let’s loosen things up! Slide your opening pick along the right edge between the back cover and the frame to slice through the adhesive. It’s like a little dance between your tool and the phone.

– Keep the adhesive from sneaking back together by leaving your opening pick in the bottom right corner. Don’t worry, it’ll be our little secret.

– Get that iOpener nice and toasty and press it against the bottom of the back cover for two minutes. Let’s get this party started!

– Now, let’s gently wiggle that opening pick around the bottom right corner. We’re just trying to loosen up that adhesive a bit, like giving it a little dance party!

– Let’s get this party started! Take your second opening pick and slide it in next to the first one, along the bottom edge. Slide it along to cut through that sticky adhesive.

– Now keep that opening pick in place on the bottom left edge. You don’t want the adhesive to stick back together, so keep that tool in place.

– Let’s heat things up! Apply your iOpener to the left side of the back cover for two minutes. You’ve got this!

– Now it’s time to get this repair started – gently rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Slide in a third opening pick just above the last one and gently glide it along the left edge to break through that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep your opening pick snug in the top left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and press it gently against the top of the back cover for a cozy two minutes.

– Swing that pick around the top left corner to loosen up the adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Pop a fourth opening pick into the top left corner, keeping it at the same depth, and gently glide it along the top edge, wrapping it around the top right corner to cut through that pesky adhesive.

– Now it’s time to add a fifth opening pick – slide it in just above the camera flash cutout, nice and smooth.

– Gently push the opening pick under the top edge of the back cover until you feel it catch on the flash adhesive, then stop for a sec.

– Keep going, inserting the pick a bit deeper into the phone, until the adhesive lets go of the back cover completely – you got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Grab the back cover by its edges and give it a little lift to take it off. It’s like a dance move!

– Now, get ready for reassembly:

– If you see any stubborn adhesive chunks, grab your trusty tweezers or fingers and give ’em the boot! If it’s being stubborn, a bit of heat and some 90% isopropyl alcohol will help loosen it up.

– For our custom-cut adhesive fans, check out this guide! schedule a repair

– And for those rocking the double-sided tape, this guide will be your best friend! schedule a repair

– Feelin’ savvy? Use the pointy end of your trusty spudger to gently unplug the wireless charging coil’s press connector from the motherboard’s socket. And don’t stress if it feels tricky—just take a deep breath and try again. Once you’ve got that done, it’s time to re-attach those press connectors. Simply align ’em carefully over their sockets and give ’em a little press with your fingertip on each side until they click into place—they won’t go anywhere else, don’t worry! If it’s just not clickin’ with you, no worries – give ’em a little nudge and try again. Still need a hand? No biggie, you can always schedule a repair!

– Alright, let’s loosen those screws! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and pop off those thirteen 3.5mm screws holding down the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker.

– Six of these little guys are keeping the wireless charging coil in place.

– The remaining seven screws are holding the loudspeaker in place.

– Let’s get this speaker out! First, grab your trusty spudger and gently insert the tip into the notch on the left edge of the loudspeaker assembly.

– Now, give that speaker a little nudge, prying it up to release those clips holding it in place. It’s like giving it a high-five!

– Gently pry the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker assembly away from the frame using your fingernail or a spudger – it’s like opening a little door to the inside of your phone.

– Now it’s time to remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker, taking care not to damage any surrounding components.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to press around the edges of the loudspeaker to secure it to the frame before replacing the screws. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to give that battery cable a little nudge! Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the battery cable press connector (it’s hanging out on the motherboard), and give it a little lift to disconnect it. No worries, it’s just a friendly separation.

– Slide the spudger’s tip gently under the left side of the earpiece speaker connector and give it a little nudge to pop it free. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the five 3.5mm screws holding the earpiece speaker in place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now, let’s give that earpiece speaker a little nudge! Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry it up from the chassis.

– Time to say goodbye to the earpiece speaker – carefully remove it from the device.

– Grab a spudger and gently wiggle it to lift up and disconnect the front camera press connector. You’ve got this!

– Now it’s time to get this camera loose. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to warm up the front camera for about 90 seconds. If you’re not comfortable with this step, don’t worry – you can always schedule a repair and let the pros at Salvation Repair handle it for you.

– Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pop the front camera out of its spot in the frame. It’s like giving it a little high-five to say goodbye!

– When you put everything back together, you’ll want to make sure that camera is secure. If your replacement part didn’t come with new adhesive, just use some thin, double-sided tape. We’ve got you covered! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.