Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra Screen and Battery Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
Heads up! This guide covers swapping out your screen and battery combo.
Get ready to tackle the screen and battery assembly replacement for your Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra! This guide is all about swapping out the screen, battery, and frame as one neat package. Before diving in, double-check that you have the correct part in hand. If you're just looking to replace the battery, no worries—check out this guide. And if it's the screen that's giving you trouble, we've got a separate guide for that too. Let's get started!
Step 1
Let your phone's battery drain below 25%—a fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a safety hazard. If it’s swollen or bulging, handle it with care and take the necessary precautions.
- First things first, let’s get your phone ready for some TLC! Start by unplugging all the cables from your device.
- Now, let’s power down that phone! Press and hold the side button along with the volume down button, then tap 'Power off' to turn off your phone. Easy peasy!
Step 2
You can grab a hair dryer, heat gun, or even park the phone on a gentle hot plate—just keep the heat mellow so the screen and battery stay chill.
- Warm things up by applying a heated iOpener to the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 3
If the gap’s just not happening, try hitting it with a bit more heat to loosen things up. Stick to the iOpener instructions so you don’t end up with a toasted device.
- Start by attaching a suction handle to the back cover, positioning it as close to the center of the right edge as you can - this will be your trusty sidekick for prying it open.
- Now, grab the suction handle and pull up with some serious might - think of it as a mini workout for your hands. You're aiming to create a small gap between the cover and the frame, so keep at it until you see some daylight.
- Once you've got that gap, it's time to bring in the opening pick. Slide it in and get ready to take apart your device - it's like a little puzzle, and you're the master solver. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 4
- Work that pick back and forth along the right edge—think of it as a tiny spatula cutting through glue.
- Keep the pick hanging out near the bottom right corner so the sticky stuff doesn't try to make a comeback.
Step 5
- Warm up the bottom edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep it gentle but steady to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 6
- Slide a second opening pick in next to your first one, hanging out near the bottom of the right edge.
- Twist the pick around that bottom right corner to loosen up the adhesive—it's like breaking up with sticky stuff, but way less drama.
Step 7
- Glide the opening pick along the bottom edge to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
- Park the pick near the bottom left corner—it's your trusty wedge to keep the adhesive from sneaking back together.
Step 8
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of the back cover. It's like a spa day for your device!
Tools Used
Step 9
- Pop in a third opening pick just beside the second one, right near the bottom left edge.
- Gently twist the pick around the bottom left corner to break the adhesive seal. Easy does it!
Step 10
Be gentle when inserting the pick—no more than 4 mm—to keep that antenna cable happy and avoid any damage.
- Glide your opening pick down the left edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive—just don’t go all the way to the power button.
- Let the pick chill near the power button, so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together while you work.
Step 11
- Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 12
- Slip your opening pick into the little gap at the top of the right side—like sliding into the DMs, but for your device.
- Spin that pick around the top right corner to break up the adhesive. It’s like separating a grilled cheese, but with more tech and less cheese.
Step 13
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 4 mm! There's a sensor and camera hiding near the top edge, and they don't appreciate surprise visits.
- Now it's time to get this repair started! Slide the pick along the top edge to loosen the adhesive and carefully separate the parts.
Step 14
Keep that pick under 4 mm, okay? We don't want to accidentally give those cameras a surprise makeover!
- Gently glide the pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to break free the last bits of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 15
- Pop off the back cover and set it aside.
- When you're putting things back together:
- Tweeze or peel off any leftover sticky bits. If the adhesive is clinging for dear life, a little heat will help loosen things up.
- Using pre-cut adhesives? Follow this guide for a smooth stick.
- Going with double-sided tape? Check out this guide to get it right.
If the cover is still sticking, gently slide an opening pick around the edges to break any reformed adhesive. Now’s a good time to power on your device and check all functions before sealing it back up. Just make sure to turn it off completely before continuing. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
Look for the tiny arrow printed right next to each press connector—think of it as the VIP entrance for your pry tool. Gently lift only at that arrow so you don’t evict any unsuspecting surface-mounted parts from their comfy homes.
- Grab a spudger and gently pry up the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard. When reconnecting, line up the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. No need to force it; if it doesn’t seat easily, just reposition and try again. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.
Tools Used
Step 17
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those ten 3.5 mm-long screws holding down the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker. Let's break it down:
- First up, you'll need to remove the four screws that are keeping the wireless charging coil snug and secure.
- Next, it's time to take out the six screws that are holding the loudspeaker in place.
Step 18
- Grab a spudger and gently lift a corner of the wireless charging coil's tab that's stuck to the right edge of the frame. Take your time—patience is key to a smooth lift. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 19
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently work it between the tab and the frame to separate them.
Step 20
A little arrow engraved on the loudspeaker points you to the best spot to pry—think of it as your repair GPS. Follow that hint to keep things smooth and avoid unnecessary trouble.
- Slip the tip of your spudger into the gap along the right side of the loudspeaker and the frame.
- Gently pop the loudspeaker upward to release it from the frame clips.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Pop that wireless charging coil and loudspeaker out of the frame—think of it as freeing tiny prisoners.
- For the encore, line up the loudspeaker so it snaps happily into place around the edges before you twist those screws back in.
Step 22
- Let's get started! Use a trusty spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the battery press connector. Take your time and make sure it's fully disconnected before moving on to the next step.
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up both interconnect cable press connectors from the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 24
- Grab your spudger and gently pop up both interconnect cable connectors from the daughterboard. Easy does it—no rush, just lift and disconnect.
Tools Used
Step 25
- Let's get started by carefully removing the interconnect cables from your phone. This is a great first step, and you're already making progress!
Step 26
Oops, poked the mic hole instead of the SIM tray? No biggie—your mic is probably still jamming. Just aim the tool at the tiny eject slot next time, and you’ll be golden.
- Grab your SIM eject tool, a small bit, or even a trusty paper clip—whatever fits in the SIM tray hole at the bottom edge of your phone.
- Gently press your chosen tool into the tray hole until the SIM card tray pops out.
- Slide out the SIM card tray and set it aside. Easy does it!
Step 27
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those three 3.5 mm-long screws holding down the daughterboard. Easy peasy! If you need a hand with this step, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 28
Be gentle—don’t use the battery as your leverage point. Keep your spudger angled toward the frame for a smooth, safe prying experience.
- Slip the tip of your spudger under the top left corner of the daughterboard and give it a gentle pry—like popping the lid off a can of chips, but with more tech.
- Lift the daughterboard out. No need for dramatic flair; just a smooth move.
- When putting things back together, slide the USB-C port into its nook at a slight angle, then press the daughterboard down so it sits flush on the frame. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your spudger and gently lift the earpiece speaker press connector to disconnect it. Nice and easy – you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 30
- Let's get started! Use a trusty Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5mm-long screws that are holding the earpiece speaker in place. Take your time and make sure they're all out before moving on to the next step.
Step 31
- Slide the sharp end of a spudger under the lower edge of the earpiece speaker, right where you see that little engraved arrow.
- Gently pry upward with the spudger to unclip the speaker and pop it out.
- When it's time to put everything back together, start by inserting the top edge of the earpiece speaker into the frame. Then, simply press down to click it back into place.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Time to get this repair started! Use a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector from the motherboard. Take your time and make sure it's fully disconnected before moving on.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up that display cable connector from the daughterboard. It’s like unplugging a tiny, important seatbelt.
- Slide the display cable out—no tug-of-war needed, just a smooth move.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the lower antenna press connector from the motherboard. No need to wrestle with it—just a little nudge will do the trick.
Tools Used
Step 35
- Grab a spudger and gently pry up the stylus port press connector from the motherboard, disconnecting it with a little finesse. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the upper antenna press connector, then disconnect it from the motherboard. Take your time, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 37
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the fingerprint scanner press connector from the motherboard. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab your spudger and gently lift the front camera press connector away from the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's get those two screws off the motherboard! Here's the scoop:
- First up, there's a 4.0 mm-long screw hanging out to the left of the top camera. Show it who's boss!
- Next, we have a 3.5 mm-long screw chilling to the left of the bottom camera. Give it a twist and let's keep moving!
Step 40
Watch out for those sneaky loose cables—they can be a bit of a trip hazard!
- Gently lift the top of the motherboard using your finger or a spudger—think of it as giving it a little nudge to say hello.
- Take the motherboard out, making sure to handle it like the VIP it is.
- When putting everything back together, double-check that all those press connectors are chilling above the motherboard before you slide it back in.
Tools Used
Step 41
The stylus will pop out a bit, just enough to give you a hint that it's ready for action!
- Press the button at the end of the stylus to release it.
- Gently pull out the stylus to get it started.
Step 42
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and loosen those two 2.5 mm screws holding the lower antenna in place. Easy does it—you're making progress! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 43
- Grab a pair of angled tweezers or a SIM eject tool and gently insert one arm into the bottom screw hole on the lower antenna bracket. Carefully pry up and lift the antenna bracket out of its slot until you can grab it with your fingers. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 44
- Carefully lift out the lower antenna to get it out of the way. Keep at it gently and steadily, and you'll free it up in no time. If you need help with the process, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the top antenna cable, right between the antenna and the frame—think of it as slipping a credit card into a thin crack.
- Give the spudger a little twist to lift the antenna away from its sticky spot—no need to be a hero, just a steady hand will do. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Gently lift and detach the upper antenna, like peeling off a cozy blanket.
Step 47
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm up the device, but keep a close eye to avoid overheating—your display and internal battery are sensitive to heat damage.
- Flip the phone so the screen faces up. Warm up an iOpener and gently press it onto the top edge of the screen for a couple of minutes to loosen the front camera adhesive. Then, flip the phone back over so you can access the back of the front camera. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 48
The adhesive holding the camera is pretty stubborn. Take your time and add a little more heat if the front camera seems stuck—no need to rush. Try not to split the sensor from the lens, like in this example.
If the camera's still stuck, grab a SIM eject tool and gently scrape away the epoxy around it.
- Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry the front camera out of its slot in the frame. Then, carefully lift and remove the camera to continue with your repair.
Tools Used
Step 49
- To put everything back together, just follow these steps in reverse - easy peasy!
- If things didn't quite go as planned, don't worry! Try some basic troubleshooting or check out our Answers community for some helpful tips.
- Remember to recycle your e-waste responsibly at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- If you need help or want to make sure the job is done right, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.
