Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra USB-C Port and Daughterboard Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 28 Steps
Ready to swap out the USB-C port and daughterboard on your Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra? The port is actually attached to the daughterboard, so you’ll be replacing the whole assembly. Grab your tools and let’s get this thing done!
Step 1
Let your phone's battery chill below 25%—a fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a party crasher when it comes to safety! And hey, if your battery looks a bit puffed up, be sure to handle it with care.
- Disconnect all cables from your phone to start fresh.
- Press and hold the side button along with the volume down button, then tap 'Power off' to shut down your device.
Step 2
Want to warm up your phone safely? Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but don’t go overboard. Keep an eye on the temperature because too much heat can fry the display or drain the battery faster than you can say 'oops.' A little warmth can do the trick, but stay gentle—think of it as giving your device a cozy spa day, not a sauna.
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 3
Having trouble creating a gap? No worries—just give the heat a little more love to soften that adhesive up. Just be sure to follow the iOpener instructions carefully so you don’t overdo it. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
- Stick a suction cup onto the back cover, aiming for as close to the middle of the right edge as possible.
- Pull firmly and steadily on the suction cup to loosen the back from the frame and create a gap.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap to keep it pried open.
Tools Used
Step 4
- Wiggle that pick along the right edge to loosen up the adhesive—think of it like convincing stubborn glue to move out.
- Let the pick hang out near the bottom right corner to keep the adhesive from sticking things back together. It’s your little glue blocker!
Step 5
- Warm up a heated iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 6
- Grab a second opening pick and slide it in right next to the first, near the bottom edge on the right side. Then, gently rotate that pick around the bottom right corner to loosen the adhesive — like opening a stubborn jar, but with less effort and more finesse.
Step 7
- Glide the opening pick along the bottom edge to loosen up the sticky adhesive. It's like giving your device a gentle nudge to let go.
- Keep the pick hanging out near the bottom left corner—this stops things from sticking back together when you’re not looking.
Step 8
- Warm things up by parking a toasty iOpener on the left rim of the back cover for a full two minutes—just enough time to loosen the adhesive and keep the vibe chill.
Tools Used
Step 9
- Slide a third opening pick in next to the second one, aiming for the left side of the bottom edge. The more picks, the merrier.
- Swing that pick around the bottom left corner—think of it as tracing the curve—to loosen up the adhesive like a pro.
Step 10
Be careful not to push the pick in more than 4mm – we don’t want to accidentally mess with that antenna cable. Keep it gentle!
- Gently glide your opening pick along the left edge to break the adhesive seal, but make sure to stop just shy of the power button.
- Keep that pick snugly in place near the power button to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 11
- Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Think of it like giving your device a little spa treatment before you dive in!
Tools Used
Step 12
- Slip an opening pick into the gap at the top right edge to get things started.
- Gently wiggle the pick around the corner to loosen the adhesive and free that side.
Step 13
Keep the pick no deeper than 4mm to steer clear of any damage to the sensor or camera near the top edge. A little goes a long way!
- Glide the pick along the top edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive—like you're slicing through butter, but with tech. Keep it smooth!
Step 14
Keep it gentle: no more than 4 mm of insertion to avoid messing up those cameras. Slow and steady wins the race, and your device will thank you.
- Gently glide the pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to break free the last bits of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 15
If your cover is still clinging to the frame like it owns the place, run an opening pick around the edges to break up any stubborn adhesive.
Before sealing things up, it’s a smart move to power on your device and make sure everything’s working. Once you’ve tested the important stuff, turn it off again before diving back into your repair adventure.
- Let's get started! Remove the back cover to begin the repair process.
- When you're putting everything back together:
- Gently remove any leftover adhesive with tweezers or your fingers. If it's being stubborn, try applying a bit of heat to help loosen it.
- If you're using custom-cut adhesives, be sure to check out our guide for tips and tricks.
- If you're using double-sided tape, follow our helpful guide to get it just right. And don't worry, if you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
Check it out! There’s a handy little arrow on the board right by each press connector that shows you where to pry. Stick to this spot to gently nudge those connectors without sending any surface-mounted components flying off into space. You've got this!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard. Take it slow, and don't rush it.
- When it's time to reconnect those press connectors, make sure you align it carefully over its socket. Press down gently with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until you hear that satisfying click. No need to force anything! If it doesn't go in, reposition it and give it another go.
Tools Used
Step 17
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's tackle those ten 3.5 mm-long screws that are keeping the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker locked in place. You'll need to free up four screws for that wireless charging coil and six screws for the loudspeaker. Let's do this!
Step 18
- Grab your spudger and carefully lift up a corner of the wireless charging coil tab stuck to the right edge of the frame. Easy does it—no rush!
Tools Used
Step 19
- Grab your opening pick and gently slide it between the tab and the frame to pop it loose.
Step 20
Check out the arrow etched on the loudspeaker—it’s pointing right where you want to pry!
- Time to get this repair started! Insert the point of a spudger into the gap between the right edge of the loudspeaker and the frame - it's like a little puzzle piece waiting to be freed.
- Gently pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame. Take your time, and it'll come loose in no time!
Tools Used
Step 21
- Take out the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker from the frame. When putting everything back together, give the loudspeaker a gentle press around the edges to clip it into place before you screw it back in. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 22
- Gently lift the battery press connector using your spudger—like you're popping the tab on a fresh soda.
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab your spudger and gently pop up both interconnect cable press connectors from the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 24
- Grab a spudger and gently pry up the connectors holding the interconnect cables to the daughterboard. Carefully disconnect both cables—that's the way to keep things moving smoothly. If you run into any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros.
Tools Used
Step 25
- Gently unplug those interconnect cables and set them aside—your phone's getting lighter by the minute!
Step 26
Oops! If the SIM eject tool ended up in a microphone hole, take a breath—chances are the mic is still perfectly fine.
- Grab a SIM eject tool, a tiny bit, or even a straightened paper clip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the bottom edge of your phone where the SIM lives.
- Give it a little push into that hole to pop the SIM tray out—think of it as giving your phone a gentle elbow bump.
- Carefully pull out the SIM tray and set it aside. Easy does it!
Step 27
- Let's get started! Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5mm-long screws that hold the daughterboard in place. Take your time and make sure they're all out before moving on to the next step.
Step 28
Don't use the battery as a lever—aim your spudger to pry gently against the frame instead.
- Now, put everything back together by simply reversing the steps you just followed.
- If things didn’t go as expected, no worries! A bit of basic troubleshooting might do the trick, or feel free to ask for help from the Salvation Repair community.
- When you're done, don't forget to dispose of your e-waste responsibly. Find an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler nearby.
