Samsung Galaxy S6 Daughterboard Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 37 Steps
Before you start, make sure you’ve got the right tools for the job. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Ready to tackle the daughterboard replacement on your Samsung Galaxy S6? This little gem houses the headphone jack, LED soft buttons, and the USB charging port. If your phone is throwing a charging tantrum or your aux port has gone silent, swapping out the daughterboard is a smart move! Just a heads up, you’ll need to remove the rear glass to get to it, which unfortunately means the adhesive that holds it will be toast. But don’t worry, we’ll guide you through the process of reinstalling that rear glass like a pro! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Pop a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.
– Give it a press to eject the SIM card tray.
Step 2
– Hey there, let’s kick things off by popping out that SIM card tray from your device! Time to get this repair party started.
Step 3
Before you dive in, give that microwave a good clean! Trust us, you don’t want any sticky leftovers sticking to the iOpener during your repair adventure.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. You got this!
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Step 4
Take care not to turn your iOpener into a hot potato! Keep it below a toasty 100˚C (212˚F) to avoid any unexpected pop! It’s not popcorn, after all.
Steer clear of a puffy iOpener—it’s telling you it needs a break!
If the iOpener is too hot to handle in the middle, keep using it while it cools down a tad more before reheating. When it’s heated just right, it’ll stay warm for a good 10 minutes—just enough time to get to the next step!
– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a snappy thirty-second zap!
– Keep the heat game strong! If the iOpener gets too cool during your repair adventure, just throw it back into the microwave for another thirty-second burst.
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Step 5
Watch out for the iOpener—it’s going to be super toasty! Handle it with care, and don an oven mitt if you need to. Safety first, right?
– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing one of the cool flat ends so you don’t burn yourself on the hot middle.
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Step 6
No microwave? No problem! Just follow this step to heat up your iOpener in boiling water.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes, ensuring it’s fully submerged. It’s like giving it a cozy spa treatment!
– Use tongs to safely fish out the warm iOpener from the water. Watch out, it’s hot stuff!
– Give the iOpener a good towel-dry to make sure it’s all set.
– And voilà, your iOpener is good to go! If you find yourself in need of a warm-up, just repeat the boiling water process for another 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!
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Step 7
Not to worry if you’re not a fan of vacuum cleaners or hair dryers! You can also bring in the heat with a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—all cool options. Just remember, we’re aiming for warm and cozy, not hot and bothered. Our OLED display and internal battery don’t want to break a sweat, so let’s keep things cool.
Cracking open your phone will mess with its waterproof seals. Make sure you’ve got replacement adhesive on hand before you dive in, or take care to keep things dry if you’re reassembling without replacing the adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Got shattered glass? Slap some packing tape over the whole panel to keep it in one piece during removal. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Place the warmed iOpener on the back panel and let it work its magic for about two minutes to help loosen the adhesive hugging the glass edges.
– Move the iOpener around to warm up the rest of the panel for another two minutes, ensuring every part gets the love it needs.
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Step 8
If you’re feeling adventurous, once that pick is snugly in place, consider adding a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap. It can give the adhesive a little nudge to loosen up for the next steps!
– When the rear glass is feeling a bit toasty, grab a suction cup and place it near the bottom edge of the glass.
– Give that suction cup a gentle lift to create a tiny gap under the rear glass, then slide an opening pick into that space.
Step 9
Afterwards, leaving the pick in place can be a game-changer! Grab a second pick for the next step to keep that glue from sticking back together.
Reheat the rear glass as needed to stop the glue from getting cool and hard again.
– Glide the pick along the phone’s bottom edge to slice through the adhesive holding the rear glass in place.
Step 10
– Go ahead and warm up those edges and slice away at the other three sides of your phone. You’ve got this!
– Once you’ve made your cuts, slide an opening pick under each edge to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 11
– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive like a pro.
– Now, it’s time to lift off the rear glass and reveal the magic inside!
Step 12
– Ready to jazz up your device with a new rear glass?
– If you’re rocking the original rear glass or opting for a non-adhesive rear glass, groove along with this guide.
Step 13
– Get ready to part ways with those thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the midframe and your phone together.
Step 14
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to pop out that SIM card tray before diving into this step.
– Grab that midframe assembly with a firm grip! You’ve got this!
– Give that midframe assembly a little lift while gently pushing down on the battery to pop it away from the rest of the phone.
– If you’re having a tough time prying it apart, try heating it up with an iOpener, warming the edges of the display to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
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Step 15
– Get ready to lift the midframe assembly up and separate it from the rest of the phone.
Step 16
– Gently pry the battery connector away from its socket on the motherboard using the flat end of your trusty spudger. You’ve got this!
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Step 17
– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed edge to gently unplug the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their cozy spots on the motherboard. You’ve got this!
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Step 19
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger to detach the display assembly cable from the motherboard. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Gently unplug the earpiece speaker assembly cable connector from the motherboard. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Be careful not to completely remove the motherboard just yet—it’s still connected to the daughterboard with a ribbon cable underneath, so let’s take it one step at a time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Give the motherboard a lift from the camera-side end to separate it from the display frame.
Step 22
– Get that daughterboard ribbon cable connector out of its socket using the flat end of a spudger. Let’s show that motherboard some love!
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Step 23
– Got a cracked display? No worries! Just stick some tape over that glass to keep any pesky shards in check while you pry away.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat action.
– Place the iOpener right on that S6 display. After two minutes of warmth and love, switch it up to the other half of the screen.
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Step 24
– Now it’s time to get started – insert the opening pick into the battery-side edge of your phone, slipping it between the frame and display at a gentle upward angle. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 25
If cutting starts to feel like a workout, just give the iOpener another round in the heat and stick it back on. You’ll be back on track in no time!
– Gently glide the pick along the edge of the display to break free the adhesive holding it down.
– Once you’ve sliced through the adhesive, keep that pick in place to stop the display from sticking back to the frame.
Tools Used
Step 26
– Glide that pick along the bottom edge of your phone, starting from the headphone jack and moving past the charging port.
Step 27
If you happen to damage those delicate capacitive buttons or ribbon cables, no worries! You can swap out the daughterboard assembly, and it comes with shiny new capacitive buttons ready to go. Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Slide an opening pick about half an inch (around 12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, right by the headphone jack.
– Keep that pick in place to stop the button from sticking back to the display. You’ve got this!
Step 28
– Time to slide in an opening pick right under the opposite bottom corner of the display, about 0.5 inches (~12mm) will do the trick.
– Let that pick hang out there under the display, being the real MVP in keeping the button from sticking back to the display.
Step 29
– Gently slide an opening pick along the side of the phone that’s opposite the battery. This helps to separate the adhesive hiding underneath.
– Once you’ve sliced through the adhesive, simply pop the pick into the side of the display. This nifty trick will keep the display from sticking back to the frame.
Step 30
– Gently slide a pick along the top of your device towards the vibrator.
Step 31
Hold your horses! Don’t take that display off just yet – it’s still got its cable hanging out, and we wouldn’t want it to feel lonely.
– Gently grab an opening pick and have some fun separating the battery side of the frame from the display.
– If the display and frame are being stubborn, get your opening pick ready to slice through any remaining stickiness. If slicing feels like a workout, give it a little heat and try again with an iOpener.
Tools Used
Step 32
– Carefully slide the display’s flex cable through its designated hole in the frame to completely detach the right edge of the display. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If your frame is feeling a bit twisted or is still sporting some leftover glue or glass bits, your shiny new display might not sit right and could end up with a few battle scars. If things look a bit off, consider swapping out that frame!
– Before you get started with your shiny new display, make sure to give that frame a good clean! Remove all remnants of the old adhesive and any sneaky little glass shards. We want it as smooth as a baby’s bottom!
– Once you’ve zapped away all that sticky stuff and pesky glass, it’s time to clean the adhesion areas. Grab some 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Just swipe it in one direction—no back and forth, let’s keep it neat!
– To secure your new screen like a pro, use a custom-cut sheet of double-sided tape. Stick it on the back of the screen, then fish that display cable through the frame like a champion. Align your screen perfectly and press it down. You’re almost there!
Step 34
– Get ready to tackle this step! Unscrew the lone 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw that’s holding the daughterboard in place on the display frame. You’ve got this!
Step 35
Turn the display frame around so that the home button is smiling back at you.
– Slide the pointed tip of your spudger into the groove right next to that LED cable for the soft button on the right. You’ve got this!
– Carefully lift that LED cable away from the display frame. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 37
Alrighty, let’s flip that frame back over and gently lift the daughterboard right off the display frame. It’s like peeling a banana—super easy and kind of fun!
