Samsung Galaxy S8 Vibrator Motor Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 26 Steps
Try to get your battery charge below 25% before you start taking your phone apart. If a battery gets poked or punctured, it can go full firework mode. Lower charge means less risk of accidental pyrotechnics.
Ready to tackle the removal of the vibrator motor in your Samsung Galaxy S8? Awesome! First things first, we’ll be peeling off the rear glass cover, so make sure you've got some replacement adhesive on hand to seal it back up when you're done. And a quick safety tip: before you start disassembling, make sure to discharge your battery to below 25%. This reduces the risk of any fiery antics from a punctured battery—safety first, right? Let's get to it!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate can spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets a little too cozy and gets stuck, it might just overheat and cause some trouble.
Before you dive in, give that microwave a quick clean. Any stubborn bits of food or grime left behind could end up hitching a ride on your iOpener, and we want to avoid that mess!
- Slide the iOpener right into the center of your microwave like it's taking the prime seat!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair journey—too much heat can lead to a pop! Make sure it doesn't exceed 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it's been hitting the gym and is all swollen, steer clear of it.
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty for your touch, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit more before giving it another round of heat. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes!
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need a bit more or less time. The iOpener is good to go when it's just shy of too hot to handle.
- Give your iOpener some love by warming it up in the microwave for a solid thirty seconds. It's like a cozy little spa treatment!
- While you're tackling the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty. If it starts to chill out, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. You've got this!
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle with care. Wearing an oven mitt is a smart move!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to avoid getting too close to the heated center. Stay safe, it's hot stuff!
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Step 4
The iOpener gets pretty hot, so grab it only by those end tabs—no finger burns today!
No microwave? No worries! Just heat your iOpener by placing it in some boiling water for a quick fix.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener.
- Get that water boiling and then turn off the heat. Safety first!
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged, just like it’s enjoying a nice spa day.
- Using a pair of tongs, fish out the toasty iOpener from the water. Watch out, it's hot stuff!
- Give your iOpener a good towel dry—no one likes a soggy iOpener.
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If you find yourself needing to reheat it, just repeat the process: boil the water, let it chill for a moment, and then submerge your iOpener again for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up, but take it easy—too much heat can party-crash your phone’s OLED display and battery. Treat them gently!
Cracking open your phone means saying goodbye to its waterproofing—so grab some fresh adhesive if you want to keep those liquid defenses strong. If you skip the adhesive, make sure to steer clear of spills and splashes.
While the adhesive is getting nice and gooey, check out the next step for a sneak peek at the best prying spots.
You might need to reheat and slap that iOpener on a few times to get the phone toasty enough. Stick to the iOpener instructions so you don’t go overboard with the heat.
- Grab an iOpener and heat it up. Then, press it gently along one long edge of the S8 for about 2 minutes. Give it a moment to work its magic!
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Step 6
- In this part, you'll be carefully slicing through the adhesive that holds the rear glass panel in place. Think of it as peeling away a stubborn sticker—slow and steady wins the race. The adhesive layout looks like the first image—so keep that in mind as you work. The prying pattern from the outside follows a specific route, as shown: focus on the thick adhesive areas first, where the glue is more stubborn, and be gentle around the thin spots. A quick heads-up: avoid prying near the fingerprint sensor to keep it safe and sound. If you get stuck or want some extra help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 7
The suction cup might struggle to get a solid grip on the curved glass area.
If the phone's back cover is cracked, the suction cup may act shy and not stick well. Try giving it a hand by using strong tape, or carefully superglue the suction cup in place and let it set before proceeding.
Because of the curved glass, you'll be pushing up instead of sliding parallel to the phone’s surface.
- When the back panel is nice and toasty, grab your trusty suction cup and stick it near the warm edge—just steer clear of the curved part.
- Give the suction cup a gentle lift and slide an opening pick underneath the rear glass. Smooth moves!
Step 8
- Once you've got that tool snugly nestled in the glass, warm things up again with the iOpener and give it another go to loosen the adhesive. Keep it cool and steady, you've got this!
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Step 9
Take your time to keep the tool steady and avoid slipping out of the seam. If it starts to get tough, just warm it up again with the iOpener and keep going!
- Gently slide that opening pick down the side of your phone, letting it work its magic on the adhesive. You've got this!
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Step 10
- Now, let's keep this momentum rolling! Go ahead and give those other three sides a warm-up and a little slice just like the first side. You're doing great!
- To keep things smooth sailing, pop an opening pick on each side as you tackle the next one. This way, that sticky adhesive won’t close up shop on you!
Step 11
As you gently lift the glass, take a moment to peek in and make sure that the orange cable with the blue connector has given up its hold.
If the fingerprint sensor cable looks like it's playing hard to get and stays tight, don't force it! Just use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the connector before going any further.
Heads up! The fingerprint sensor cable hooks up your phone to the rear glass right by the main camera. It's a short little guy and will pop off as you lift the rear glass away. No worries—just keep an eye out so it doesn't get yanked.
- Use the opening picks to gently glide through any remaining adhesive and carefully pry the phone open a bit. When putting everything back together, line up the fingerprint sensor cable by angling the back cover until the connector sits perfectly over its socket. Then, gently press the flat end of your spudger straight down to snap the connector into place. To remove the glass from the phone, carefully lift it away as needed. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 12
If you want, just pop that back cover on without worrying about fresh adhesive. Clear out any chunky bits of old glue so everything sits nice and flush. Once it's on, a little heat and pressure go a long way to keep things together. Warning: your phone won’t survive a swim, but the leftover glue is usually tough enough for day-to-day use.
Flip your phone on and make sure your repair actually worked before you commit to new adhesive and sealing things up tight.
- Ready for a fresh back cover? Let's do this:
- Just follow these steps to pop on your old back cover or a new one (even if it’s missing the sticky stuff).
- If the camera bezel needs to make the move, check out our camera bezel replacement guide.
- Grab some tweezers and say goodbye to any leftover adhesive hanging out on the phone’s frame. Get things squeaky clean with isopropyl alcohol (90%+ is best) and a lint-free cloth—your new adhesive will thank you.
- Peel off the backing from your new rear glass. Line up one edge like a pro, then press the glass down confidently. Hello, new look!
Step 13
- Unscrew eleven 3.7 mm screws with your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver. You've got this!
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Step 14
- Carefully disconnect and remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. If you run into any trouble along the way, remember you can always schedule a repair for professional help.
Step 15
- Start by removing the three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws. Keep it steady and gentle—these screws like to stay snug. If you run into trouble or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
- Start by carefully removing the loudspeaker assembly. Take your time and handle with care—it's a small part that makes a big difference. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 17
- Grab a SIM card ejector tool or a paperclip and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the left side at the top of your device.
- Press firmly to pop out the SIM tray.
- Carefully pull the tray out of the phone.
- When putting the SIM card back in, make sure it lines up the right way with the tray’s shape before sliding it in. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 18
Even though the battery isn't part of the upcoming steps, there's no need to pull it out for this process. Just disconnect the battery, and you're all set to move forward.
- Gently lift the battery connector using the flat end of your spudger, and give yourself a mental high-five for nailing this step.
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Step 19
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the sensor array connector loose. Easy does it!
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Step 20
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to disconnect that front-facing camera connector. You're doing great!
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Step 21
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to disconnect the display and digitizer connector. Easy does it—just a little wiggle and you're all set!
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Step 22
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently prod the two antenna cables that link the motherboard to the daughterboard. Disconnecting them should feel like a breeze!
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Step 23
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and pop off that antenna ribbon cable connecting the motherboard to the daughterboard. It’s a gentle wiggle, not a wrestling match—just enough to set it free!
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Step 24
- Gently pry the motherboard loose using the flat end of a spudger, then disconnect it from the daughterboard.
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Step 25
Watch out for the battery connector if you’re leaving the battery in—don’t let it catch or get snagged!
- Gently lift the motherboard out of the phone—like you’re removing the last piece of Jenga.
Step 26
- Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to remove the vibrator motor. Easy does it—just a little leverage goes a long way. If you need a hand with the tools or steps, you can always schedule a repair.
