Step-by-Step Xbox Series X 2TB Galaxy Black SSD Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 43 Steps
First things first, power down and unplug all those pesky cables!
You might want to gather some extra software tools and procedures to make this a breeze!
Get ready to swap out that 2230 M.2 SSD on your Xbox Series X (2TB Galaxy Black edition)! Before diving in, make sure to power down your console and unplug all those pesky cables. And hey, don’t forget to keep it safe by following some basic electrostatic discharge (ESD) precautions while you work your magic. This guide will walk you through the straightforward steps to physically remove and replace your console’s SSD. Just a heads up, since Microsoft formats their drives, you might need some extra software tools and steps to get your shiny new SSD up and running perfectly!
Step 1
Alright, let’s get started! First things first, turn off your device and unplug all cables. We’re about to get hands-on, so let’s make sure everything’s safe and sound.
Step 2
To make the sticker removal a breeze, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm it up a bit.
Just peel back the sticker until you can see the sneaky screw hiding underneath. No need to rip it off completely!
Sure, these are tamper-evident stickers, but relax—Microsoft can’t void your warranty as long as you keep everything intact. Enjoy the process!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift that big sticker off the back panel to uncover the hidden second screw. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 3
As you dive into this repair adventure, remember to keep a close eye on those little screws! They each have a special home, and putting them back in their original spots will help you avoid any mishaps with your console. Stay organized and have fun with it!
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those two 7.4 mm-long screws holding the back panel in place. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Hold the back panel by the opening you’ve just freed and gently lift it upwards and away from the shell to release those long edges like a pro!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, give a little press around the edges of the back panel to snap it back in place securely.
Step 7
The back panel fits perfectly into the gap at the top of the shell. Just slide it in and you’re good to go!
– Give that back panel a little nudge, lifting it from the top edge. It’ll pop right off and you’ll be able to remove it.
– Time to take off the back panel! You’re doing great.
Step 8
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s unscrew those three little bolts holding the fan snugly to the center chassis:
– One 10.5 mm pancake screw, nice and easy!
– Plus, you’ll need to take out two 8.8 mm screws, just like that!
Step 9
Always grab those cables by the connectors—treat them like the VIPs they are! Don’t tug on the wires themselves; let’s keep everything in tip-top shape.
– Gently grab the edges of the fan cable connector with your fingers or some blunt tweezers, and give it a little tug to disconnect it from the center chassis.
– When putting it back together, make sure to tuck the fan cable under its tiny cable guide on the fan housing to keep it out of the way of the back panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 10
Step 12
You might need to keep that locking tab open while you get the base going.
Once it’s locked in, the “Hello from Seattle” line will be all lined up with the sides of your device. Super cool, right?
– Grab the base and give it a good twist to the left – that’s how you pop it free from the shell!
– Now, just lift that base right off!
– When you’re putting things back together, align the base tabs with their cozy little holes on the shell and twist to the right until you hear that satisfying snap into place with the interior locking tab.
Step 13
– Alright, buddy, let’s get this optical drive out! Grab your trusty T8 Torx screwdriver and give those two 8.8mm screws holding the optical drive’s vibration isolator to the shell a little spin. One’s on the base, and the other’s on top – you got this!
Step 14
The vibration isolator, you know, the one holding the optical drive, uses silicone pads to grip it. To get it off, just wiggle the isolator a bit – think of it like a little dance! You’ll be able to slide it off each side.
– Gently lift the optical drive’s vibration isolator to free it from its snug spot. You’re doing great!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just make sure to press that vibration isolator down and around both edges of the optical drive. It’ll sit perfectly flush with the center chassis, like it was meant to be!
Step 15
Be cool! Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves. You got this!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the optical drive power connector. Give it a little tug upwards to disconnect it from the optical drive.
– Now, using your fingers, carefully pull up to disconnect the data cable from the optical drive. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
If the drive isn’t lined up just right, the top vibration isolator might not fit snugly, and the disc reader could end up a bit off-kilter with the front of the console. Let’s keep everything aligned for smooth sailing!
– Grab the top edge of the optical drive and give it a gentle pull to slide it out of its cozy spot in the shell. Easy peasy!
– When putting things back together, make sure to line up those pegs on the optical drive’s bottom edge with the guide holes in the shell’s base. You’ve got this!
Step 17
The ribbon cables and their connectors are super delicate, so take it easy when you’re opening those locking tabs and gently pull those cables out. Slow and steady wins the race!
– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently flip open that metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just give that metal locking tab a gentle snap back into place after you’ve inserted the cable. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but leave the cable alone! It’s not a game of tug-of-war.
If the USB port cable seems to be stuck to the metal chassis, give it a little warmth with an iOpener or a hair dryer. Depending on your Xbox model, you might need to sneak an opening pick under the cable to break up that stubborn adhesive.
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the black plastic pull tab to unplug that USB port cable. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
Give that pull tab a gentle tug—leave the cable alone!
Remember to press down on that shiny metal tab before you give the cable a pull. Skipping this could lead to some unwanted damage to either the cable or the connector, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently press down on the metal tab next to the power button cable’s board connector. You’ve got this!
– With that tab pressed down, take a pair of tweezers and give the pull tab a little tug to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting everything back together, just slide the cable in and listen for that satisfying little ‘snap’ as it clicks into place. You’re doing great!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those three 7.4 mm screws that are keeping the center chassis assembly snug in its shell. Unscrew them and get ready for what’s next!
Step 21
Your Xbox model might have some sticky tape on the underside of the cable. If you see it, grab your trusty iOpener or hair dryer and give that cable a little warm hug.
– Carefully lift the USB port ribbon cable off the heatsink, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.
Tools Used
Step 22
The center chassis is snugly fitted to the shell with some nifty guide pegs. To lift the chassis out, just give those pegs a gentle slide out of their slots and voilà!
– Grab the center chassis and gently pull it towards the cheerful green fan grille at the top of the shell, freeing those guide pegs like a pro.
– Carefully lift out the center chassis assembly to release it from the shell—easy peasy!
– When putting everything back together, make sure those ribbon cables are cozy and not pinched as you lower the center chassis back into the shell.
Step 23
– Detach the chassis strap from the right side of the power supply with a gentle tug.
Step 24
– Gently tug the chassis strap and slide it off the power supply.
– With the strap free, tuck the loose end out of the way for now.
Step 25
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to unscrew! You’ll need to take out those three screws holding the power cable port snugly in the chassis:
– Two screws measuring 13.1 mm each
– One screw that’s 35 mm long
Step 26
– Gently pop the power connector out of its cozy little spot in the chassis.
Step 27
– Go ahead and pop open the lid on the plastic guide for the power cable. You’ve got this!
Step 28
– Time to give that power cable a little lift! Gently pull it up and out from under the extra section of the cable guide.
Step 29
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew that 8.8 mm screw holding down the power supply corner cover. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those three 9.6 mm screws that are holding the accessory antenna board snugly to the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Grab the antenna board and gently tug it straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it. You’ve got this!
– When putting it back together, just line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and give it a nice little press to reconnect. Easy peasy!
Step 33
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those nine screws holding the board shield in place:
– Six snazzy 8.8 mm black screws
– Two shiny 35 mm silver screws
– One unique 13.1 mm silver screw
Step 34
– Gently lift the board shield to detach it from the main chassis like you’re peeling off the lid of a cozy little jar.
Step 35
– Unhook the chassis strap from the locking tabs on both sides of the power supply. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Time to get rid of that pesky chassis strap! Just give it a little wiggle and it should come right off. You got this!
Step 37
Remember, always grab cables by their connectors—not the wires. Your cables will thank you!
– Grab that 10-pin power connector and give its locking tab a little squeeze.
– Keep the pressure on that tab and gently lift the connector straight up. It’ll pop right off the board, no sweat!
Step 38
With the tabs pressed down just right, you’ll find that the interconnect cable glides out smoothly with hardly any effort at all!
– Give the base of the interconnect cable connector a gentle squeeze with your fingers.
– Press down on each side of the connector to release those sneaky cable locking tabs.
– With the tabs out of the way, grab the edges of the interconnect cable and smoothly pull it straight out of the connector. It’s like a magic trick!
– When putting things back together, listen for that satisfying ‘snap’ as the interconnect cable locks back into place. You’ve got this!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Unscrew those three shiny 35 mm-long silver screws from the power supply, but don’t touch that fourth black screw—we’re leaving it just where it is. You got this!
Step 40
– Alright, it’s time to get hands-on! Gently grasp the edges of the center chassis (just avoid the power supply, we don’t want to accidentally power up our adventure!). Carefully lift it off the motherboard and heatsink assembly, making sure to guide the interconnect cable through its nifty little cutout. You’ve got this!
Step 41
The SSD shield is cozy with thermal pads on both sides, so let’s keep those little buddies safe and sound throughout this process!
Step 42
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew that 5.2 mm screw holding the SSD in place. You’ve got this!
Step 43
With the SSD screw outta the way, the SSD will pop up a little bit. It’s like magic, but with less sparkles.
– To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse—easy peasy!
– When it’s time to part ways with your old tech, make sure to recycle it responsibly with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t stress! A little troubleshooting might do the trick, or feel free to reach out to our Xbox Series X Answers community for tips.
– Decided to hit pause? No problem, just let us know you didn’t finish this guide!
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