Xbox 360 S Motherboard Replacement Guide: DIY Tutorial

– Give that latch a gentle nudge to the left to free up the hard drive cover.

– Carefully slide the hard drive cover off, like a magician revealing a surprise!

– Grab the fabric tab on your hard drive – it’s labeled with the size, like ‘250 GB’ – and get a good grip!

– Now, carefully pull the hard drive straight out of the console. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– It’s snugly held in place at the bottom panel by those seven nifty clips you see right there.

– Gently slide a metal spudger into the gap between the sleek black bottom vent and the shiny silver rim of the bottom bezel, right at the rear right corner of the vent.

– Now, give that spudger a little twist away from the console, carefully lifting the vent free from the bottom bezel with a bit of finesse.

– Just like we did earlier, gently pop open the last two clips on the bottom right edge. You’re getting this done like a pro!

– Gently lift the bottom vent away from the bottom bezel to set it free.

– Those red clips are ready to be freed! Use a metal spudger to get under the bottom edge of the clip. Gently pry the clip away from the console, and it’ll pop right off!

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap at the rear left corner of the bottom bezel. You’ve got this!

– Gently twist the spudger away from the device while using your other hand to lift the rear bezel up. Easy peasy!

– Slide a metal spudger into the left middle slit of the bottom bezel, wiggling it gently between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case. You’re crafting some magic here!

– Now, give that bottom bezel a little lift while rotating the spudger away from the console to set the clip free. Almost there!

– Keep it up! Just like before, free the clip located at the front of the bottom bezel’s left edge. You’re doing great!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Take your trusty spudger and slide it into the back slot on the right side of the bottom bezel. You’re gonna want to wedge it in there, so push down on the spudger while pushing the tip against the right case. You got this!

– Now, release the clip and pull the bottom bezel up. You’re doing great!

– Slide your trusty spudger right between that shiny silver rim and the bottom bezel, snugly positioned just above the clip you see there.

– Now, gently pop that clip loose while lifting up on the bottom bezel. You’ve got this!

– Time to get this repair started! Carefully lift the left edge of the bottom bezel up to create some space to work with.

– Now, take a metal spudger and slide it behind the left edge of the last clip. Gently push the clip away from the right case to release it.

– Get ready to tackle these steps where we’ll pop off the top vent, held snugly in place by thirteen little clips. Let’s do this!

– Let’s get this party started! First, give the Xbox 360 a little spin so the words “XBOX 360” are right-side up, and the faceplate is facing to the left. Cool, huh?

– Next, take your trusty metal spudger and gently slide it between the top vent and the top bezel, near the back of the Xbox.

– Now, give that spudger a little twist, gently prying the edge of the fan vent upwards. Keep going until you hear those two plastic clips release. You’re doing great!

– Time to get started! Insert a metal spudger between the fan vent and top bezel on the left side of the console – it’s the perfect spot to begin prying things open.

– Now, use that same technique to gently pry the left side of the top vent away from the top bezel. You’re making great progress!

– Keep going! Continue prying along the left side of the device, and you’ll soon have all the clips on that side freed up. You’re doing fantastic!

– Give that fan vent a gentle lift from the now-free left side to pop those clips loose on the right. You’re doing great!

– Now, go ahead and pull off the whole fan vent. You’ve got this!

– In the upcoming steps, you’ll be gently unfastening the six clips marked in red. Let’s get that device open with a little finesse!

– Now it’s time to get a little tricky – insert a metal spudger through the front-most slit on the left edge of the top bezel, making sure it’s between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case. Take your time and get it just right.

– Here’s the fun part: rotate the spudger away from the console while pulling up on the top bezel. This will help free the clip, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device. If you’re feeling stuck, don’t worry – just take a deep breath and try again.

– Just like we did before, gently pop free the last two clips along the left side of the top bezel. You’ve got this!

– With a firm grip, take hold of the entire top panel and gently raise the left edge high enough so the clips can rest comfortably on the left case.

– If any clips have decided to reattach themselves, don’t worry! Just grab your trusty spudger and gently coax them back off.

– First things first, flip that console around so the back of your Xbox 360 S is pointing to the right—got it? Now, make sure the right side is looking straight at you like it’s ready for action!

– Next up, grab your trusty metal spudger and slide it through the furthest gap on the right edge of the top bezel. You’ll want to wiggle it in between the bottom edge of the clip and the right case—easy peasy!

– While you’re giving a gentle lift to the top bezel with your fingers, give that spudger a little twist away from the console. That should help free up the clip like magic!

– Just like you did before, gently pop open the middle and front clips along the right side of the top panel. You’ve got this!

– Time to pop that top panel off! Give it a gentle lift and watch it go.

– If those pesky clips decide to play hide-and-seek, just grab your trusty spudger and give ’em a little nudge. They’ll come out eventually.

– First, find those two sneaky clips that are holding the left and right cases together right at the top edge of the console, just behind the Wi-Fi card. They’re a bit shy, but you’ll locate them!

– Now, with one hand, gently nudge the left and right cases apart. As you do that, take your trusty metal spudger and carefully pry those clips away from the case. You’re doing great!

– Slide a spudger between the left and right cases to keep them apart while you tackle other parts. It’s like giving them a little space while you do your thing!

– With one hand, gently push the left and right cases apart while freeing up the clip next to the hard drive slot. Easy does it!

– Keep those cases apart! We don’t want those clips getting cozy again.

– Slide another spudger in between the left and right cases right below that clip for a smooth move.

– Let’s get started by inserting the flat edge of a metal spudger between the left and right cases, where the warranty sticker used to be. This is the first step in separating the cases.

– Next, gently pry the left case upwards to create a gap between the two cases. Then, carefully slide the spudger in toward the left case to loosen it.

– Now, rotate the spudger upward to release the last clip. This might take a bit of finesse, but you’ve got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s get started by releasing one of the clips at the front left corner of the top edge, which holds the left case in place against the faceplate.

– Alright, let’s get started! First, flip that console over so the bottom is facing up and ready for action.

– Next up, gently release the clip located in the front left corner of the bottom edge. This clip is the secret keeper for the left case and faceplate!

– Now, give the left case a little twist away from the device to free up those last two inner clips. Just a little shake and they’ll be on their way!

– And voilà! The left case is now liberated. You’ve got this!

– Gently pop that clip loose in the front right corner at the top edge. It’s holding the right case snugly to the faceplate, so give it a little nudge!

– Pop that clip in the bottom right corner of the top edge to free the right case from the front case. You’ve got this!

– Gently nudge the left edge of the faceplate upwards to pop off the last two clips holding it to the right case. You’re almost there!

– Now, carefully detach the faceplate from the device. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty spudger or your fingernail and gently lift that clear blue tab away from the connector like you’re opening a magical treasure chest.

– Give the locking tab on the power switch board cable connector a little nudge toward the top of the console to set it free.

– Now, with a steady hand, pull the power switch cable straight out of the connector. It should come out smoothly, just like butter.

– Voilà! The faceplate is now happily detached from the console, ready for the next adventure.

– Let’s get those two 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws out of the way to free the RF module from the metal case. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the board straight out from the Xbox to set it free.

– Unscrew the lone T10 Torx screw that’s keeping the wireless card snug in its spot.

– Gently slide the Wi-Fi Board out of the console and say goodbye to its temporary home.

– Peel off that big white sticker from the metal frame to reveal a hidden screw. It’s like unwrapping a little surprise!

– Let’s get started by removing the five 55.5 mm T10 Torx screws that hold the right case in place on the metal frame. Grab your trusty screwdriver and get to work!

– Gently lift the right case away, using that sturdy metal framework as your trusty guide.

– Time to get started! Carefully disconnect the optical drive data cable from the back of the optical drive – it’s the first step to getting your device up and running again.

– Next, gently pull out the power cable from the back of the optical drive. You’re making great progress!

– Time to give that optical drive a little lift and say ‘see ya later’ to the Xbox.

– Take out the lone 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw from the spot labeled ‘G.’ You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the fan duct away from the fan.

– First, let’s tackle that pesky 9.2 mm T10 Torx screw that’s holding the hard drive cable connector to the plastic bracket. Give it a gentle twist and remove it.

– Now, with that screw out of the way, carefully lift the hard drive cable connector off the hard drive bracket. You’re doing great!

– Let’s get started by removing the 11.3 mm T10 Torx screw that’s holding the hard drive bracket in place, located near the DC-In port. This is a great opportunity to get familiar with the inner workings of your device, and we’re here to guide you through it.

– Gently lift the hard drive bracket out of its cozy spot in the metal frame. You’re making great progress!

– Now, let’s disconnect the fan cable. Just gently pull the connector off the logic board. It’s like saying ‘goodbye’ to your old friend, the fan.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those two 11.7 mm screws that are keeping the fan snug against the heat sink—one in the bottom right corner and the other in the top left. You’ve got this!

– Now, gently lift the fan out from the logic board assembly. You’re making great progress!

– Let’s get started by removing the screws that hold the logic board assembly in place – there are 10 in total!

– First, locate the five 11.3 mm silver T10 Torx screws in the holes marked ‘M’, ‘N’, ‘P’, ‘R’, and ‘T’ – these are the ones you’ll need to remove first.

– Next up, you’ve got four 5.6 mm black T9 Torx screws in the holes marked ‘D’, ‘E’, ‘J’, and ‘K’ – take those out as well.

– Last but not least, there’s a single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw in the hole marked ‘A’ – remove that one too, and you’ll be ready to move on to the next step.

– Time to set that optical drive free! Carefully lift the retaining bracket off the logic board.

– Get a good grip on the heat sink with one hand, and use your other hand to hold the metal frame steady – you’re in control here!

– Now, carefully lift the logic board assembly out of the metal frame. Take your time, it’s a delicate step, but you’ve got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– To keep your logic board safe from ESD damage, make sure to place it on a soft, static-free surface while you work on it – your board will thank you!

– Let’s get started! Begin at the front left corner of the x-clamp and carefully insert a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver between the heat sink’s peg and the x-clamp’s hook. Take your time and you’ll be a pro in no time!

– Just like we did before, go ahead and gently unhook the rear right side of the x-clamp. You got this!

– Now, let’s loosen the rear left hook of the x-clamp, just like we did earlier. Give it a little wiggle and it should come free!

– Gently pop the x-clamp off the back of the logic board like you’re lifting a lid off a pot—easy does it!

– Let’s get that heat sink off the logic board. Take your time, and remember, we’re in this together!

– Now, before you put the heat sink back on, let’s refresh that thermal compound. Give your device the love it deserves! If you’re feeling unsure about the thermal paste, schedule a repair and our team will be happy to help.

– The logic board and its connectors are still in place, so let’s get started!

– Now, when you’re putting in that shiny new board, don’t forget to move the cables from the old one to the new one – it’s like giving your device a brand new outfit!