Xbox One X Fan Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step DIY Tutorial

– Grab those trusty blunt tweezers and gently lift off the sticker that’s hiding the right-side screw on the back of your console. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get started! Use a T10 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 12.6 mm-long screws from the back of the console. This is a straightforward step, but if you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry – we’ve got you covered. Just take your time and make sure those screws are out before moving on to the next step.

– Give that console a little spin! Rotate it 90 degrees.

– Now, grab the front of the upper plastic case and slide it towards the front of the console. You’ll feel it pop out of those little slots. Keep going until it stops!

– Give that console a little spin, turning it 90 degrees so its back is looking right at you.

– Now, gently raise the left side of the upper plastic case (when viewed from the back of the console) until it won’t lift any higher. You’ve got this!

– Keep your grip steady on the left side of that upper plastic case while giving the right side a gentle nudge upwards to clear out the right-side screw boss. You’ve got this!

– Now, swing that upper plastic case open to about 75 degrees. It’s like giving it a little stretch—you’re almost there!

– Gently nudge the upper plastic case down and away from the console. It should pop right off like magic!

– Grab your trusty spudger, an opening tool, or even just your finger, and gently flip down that small, hinged locking flap on the ribbon cable ZIF connector found on the front circuit board. You’ve got this!

– Grab those tweezers and gently pull that ribbon cable out of its connector. It’s like a little dance, you just gotta know the moves!

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three 13.3 mm screws that are holding the front circuit board snugly against the upper metal case. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle that front circuit board and pull it straight out from the upper metal case, then give it a cozy spot to chill out while you work!

– Grab your trusty T10 Torx screwdriver and tackle those six 47.7 mm screws that are keeping the upper metal case snugly attached to the lower plastic case. Let’s get that case unfastened!

– Now, switch it up with a T8 Torx screwdriver to take out the two 7.5 mm screws holding the press connector tight against the upper metal case. You’re doing great!

– Slide the flat end of a spudger gently underneath the press connector located on the side that’s away from the ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– Use that spudger to lift the press connector up and away from the upper metal case like a pro!

– When it’s time to put those press connectors back, make sure to align them carefully. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, and then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If things get misaligned, those little pins can bend, and we don’t want that. Keep it gentle and steady!

– Let’s start by flipping the console upside down!

– Now, gently lift the lower plastic case away from the metal casing and set it aside for later. You’re doing great!

– Let’s kick things off by unscrewing those two T10 Torx screws that hold the lower metal case in place:

– One 7.7 mm screw waiting for you to remove it!

– And don’t forget the one that’s 11.4 mm—it’s ready to come out too!

– Gently lift the lower metal case away from the upper metal case and the inner components—like lifting the lid off a treasure chest!

– Now that you’ve uncovered the goodies, just set the lower metal case aside for a moment.

– Let’s get started by flipping the console over – it’s time to get hands-on!

– Now, grab your trusty T10 Torx screwdriver and remove the screws that hold the power supply and fan in place within the upper metal case:

– You’ll need to remove two 11.4 mm screws – they’re the first to go!

– Next, remove two more 11.4 mm screws – we’re making progress!

– Finally, remove one last 11.4 mm screw, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device!

– Alright, let’s flip that console over like a pancake!

– Now, gently lift the disc drive up until that little metal tab unhooks from the power supply. You’ve got this!

– Next up, place the disc drive on the upper metal case, right above the hard drive. Make sure there’s enough room to unplug the power supply from the motherboard. Easy peasy!

– Let’s get this tape party started! Take your trusty spudger and gently slip the flat end under that dark grey foam tape. Start at the corner closest to the power supply, where the console meets the edge. You know, that corner that always seems to be in a hurry?

– Now, lift that corner like you’re revealing a secret treasure – you’re gonna be amazed by what’s underneath!

– Slowly push the spudger across, like you’re gliding on a magic carpet. Keep going until you see the flat end of your spudger emerge on the other side. You got this!

– Carefully lift the power supply straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. If you’re not sure, take a moment to double-check your work – we’ve got you covered!

– Raise the power supply so the cables form a perfect 90-degree angle. You’ve got this!

– While holding the power supply above the console, give those grey cables a little wiggle and gently free them from the plastic hook on the fan case. It’s like helping them escape their plastic prison!

– Place the power supply on a flat surface, like a table, to get started with your repair.

– Gently detach the fan’s cable from the motherboard by pulling it straight up. You’ve got this!

– Time to put it all back together! Just follow these steps in reverse, and you’ll be good to go.

– Don’t forget to drop off your e-waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s the right thing to do!

– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you’d hoped, a little basic troubleshooting might do the trick. And if you’re still stuck, our community is here to help!

– Oops! If you need to back out, just let us know.

– Remember, you’re not alone in this – we’ve got your back!