Xbox Series X 2TB Galaxy Black Power Supply Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 41 Steps
Let’s start by powering off and unplugging everything—safety first, friend!
Hey there, tech enthusiast! Let’s get your Xbox Series X (2TB Galaxy Black edition) back in the game. This guide’s gonna walk you through swapping out that power supply, so you can get back to conquering those virtual worlds. If your Xbox isn’t firing up or the light’s out, it’s likely that power supply’s playing dead. Before we dive in, make sure your console is completely powered down and unplugged. And remember, always be mindful of those static electricity gremlins while you’re working on your console. Just follow along, and we’ll have your Xbox back in tip-top shape in no time!
Step 1
Alright, champ! Let’s get this show on the road. Before we start, give your device a quick power down and unplug all the cables. We’re gonna make this a smooth operation, so let’s get everything ready!
Step 2
For an easier time, warm up the sticker with an iOpener or hair dryer—it’ll come off like a charm.
Just peel the sticker enough to get to the hidden screw—no need to yank it all the way off.
These stickers might look intimidating, but don’t sweat it. Microsoft can’t void your warranty as long as you’re careful. Go ahead, have fun with it!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift that big sticker off the back panel. It’s hiding the second screw, so let’s get it out of the way!
Tools Used
Step 3
As you dive into this repair adventure, keep a keen eye on each screw! Make sure they find their way back home to avoid any hiccups with your console. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to tackle those two 7.4 mm-long screws holding the back panel in place. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Grab the back panel at that snazzy little opening you just made and gently pull it up and away from the shell to release those long edges. It’s like giving your device a little hug!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just give a little press along the edges of the back panel to click it right back into place. You’ve got this!
Step 7
The back panel fits snugly into a groove at the top of the casing.
– Gently tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to set it free from the gap.
– Now, go ahead and remove the back panel!
Step 8
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and unscrew the trio of screws holding the fan to the center chassis:
– One chunky 10.5 mm pancake screw
– Two smaller 8.8 mm screws
Step 9
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Treat them with care and they’ll thank you later.
– Gently grasp the edges of the fan cable connector using your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers, then give it a careful pull upwards to disconnect it from the center chassis.
– When putting everything back together, make sure to tuck the fan cable neatly underneath its little cable guide on the fan housing so it stays out of the way of the back panel.
Tools Used
Step 10
Step 12
Keep that locking tab wide open while you ease the base into position. You’ve got this!
Once it’s all set and ready, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line will line up perfectly with the sides of your device. You’re almost there!
– Grab that base and give it a counterclockwise twist to set it free from the shell.
– Take the base out and set it aside for a moment.
– When you’re putting it back together, gently guide the base tabs into their cozy little holes on the shell and give it a clockwise twist until you hear that satisfying snap into the interior locking tab.
Step 13
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those two 8.8 mm screws that are holding the optical drive’s vibration isolator snugly against the shell. One screw is hanging out on the base, and the other is chillin’ at the top of the isolator. Once you’ve got them out, you’re on your way!
Step 14
The vibration isolator snugly hugs the sides of the optical drive with its silicone pads. To get it off, just give it a little wiggle and ‘walk’ it off each side like a pro!
– Gently lift the optical drive’s vibration isolator to take it out.
– When putting everything back together, make sure to press down the vibration isolator around both edges of the optical drive, so it fits nicely with the rest of the center chassis.
Step 15
Hey, don’t yank those cables! Always pull ’em by the connector, not the wires. It’s like giving a cable a gentle hug, not a rough handshake!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the optical drive power connector. Give it a little tug upwards to disconnect it from the drive—easy peasy!
– Now, using your fingers, lift up the data cable from the optical drive and disconnect it. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
Hey there, make sure that drive is all lined up! If it’s not, you’ll have a hard time getting that vibration isolator in place. It’s like trying to put a square peg in a round hole. And you’ll end up with a disc reader that’s all wonky. If you’re feeling lost, just remember, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab the top edge of the optical drive and gently pull it out of its cozy spot in the shell. It’s time for a little extraction!
– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to line up the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the shell’s bottom. It’s like a puzzle piece fitting right in!
Step 17
Be super careful with those ribbon cables and their connectors—they’re like delicate little flowers! Always ease open those locking tabs and pull those cables out slowly and gently. You’ve got this!
– Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. It’s like giving the cable a little high five!
– During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted. Just like putting a puzzle piece back where it belongs!
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but leave the cable alone!
If your USB port cable seems to be stuck to the metal chassis, no worries! Give it a gentle warm-up with an iOpener or a hair dryer. And depending on your Xbox model, you might want to slide an opening pick under the cable to help break that sticky bond. You’re doing great, keep it up!
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable. Easy peasy! If you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 19
Give that pull tab a gentle tug—no need to rough up the cable!
Remember to press down on the metal tab while pulling; otherwise, you might end up giving the cable or connector an unexpected workout!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently press down on the metal tab next to the power button cable’s board connector. You’ve got this!
– With that tab pressed down, take a pair of tweezers and give the pull tab a little tug to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting everything back together, just slide the cable in until you hear a light ‘snap’—that’s it locking into place like it belongs there!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to unscrew! Carefully take out the three 7.4 mm screws that are holding the center chassis assembly snugly to the shell. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Hey there, depending on your Xbox’s model, the adhesive might be hiding on the underside of the cable. If so, you can use an iOpener or a hairdryer to give it a little warmth. Just remember to be careful and don’t overheat it!
– Time to give that USB port ribbon cable some love! Gently peel it away from the heatsink. It’s like giving it a little hug, but in a techy way.
Tools Used
Step 22
Alright, now let’s get that chassis out! It’s held in place by some little guide pegs. Just gently slide those pegs out of their slots, and then you can lift the chassis right out. Easy peasy!
– Grab the central chassis and gently pull it towards the cheerful green fan grille at the top of the shell, freeing those guide pegs like a pro.
– Carefully lift out the center chassis assembly and wave goodbye as you remove it from the shell.
– When putting everything back together, keep an eye on those ribbon cables – you don’t want them getting pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 23
– Pop the chassis strap loose from the right side of the power supply. You’ve got this!
Step 24
– Gently lift the chassis strap away from the power supply and let it fall free.
– Now that the strap is off, go ahead and place that loose section to the side like it’s taking a well-deserved break.
Step 25
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to unscrew! You’ll need to take out three screws that are holding the power cable port snugly to the chassis:
– First up, there are two 13.1 mm screws waiting for your attention.
– And don’t forget about the one 35 mm screw that wants to join the party!
Step 26
– Gently lift the power connector from its cozy spot in the chassis. Easy does it!
Step 27
– Pop the lid off that plastic guide for the power cable and give it a good open!
Step 28
– Gently pull the power cable out from its cozy spot beneath the extra section of the cable guide.
Step 29
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and get ready to tackle the 8.8 mm screw that’s holding down the power supply corner cover. You’re on the right track!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to unscrew! You’ll want to pop off those three 9.6 mm screws that are keeping the accessory antenna board snugly attached to the center chassis. Let’s do this!
Step 32
– Grab that antenna board and give it a gentle tug straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and give it a nice press to reconnect. Easy peasy!
Step 33
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those nine screws holding the board shield in place:
– Six spunky 8.8 mm black screws
– Two shiny 35 mm silver screws
– One charming 13.1 mm silver screw
Step 34
– Time to give that board shield a little lift! Gently pry it up to release it from its snug spot in the center chassis.
Step 35
– Okay, let’s get this chassis strap unhooked! Gently release it from the locking tabs on each side of the power supply. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Time to get your hands dirty! Start by zipping that chassis strap off like a pro.
Step 37
Hey! Always remember to gently tug on the connectors when pulling cables, not the wires themselves. You’re a pro!
– Get a good grip on the 10-pin power connector’s locking tab and give it a squeeze.
– While keeping that tab compressed, carefully lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board.
Step 38
– Get a grip on that 2-pin power connector by compressing the locking tab. It’s time to set it free!
– While you’re keeping the locking tab compressed, gently lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board. You’re doing great!
Step 39
– Let’s get this party started! Open the lid on the power supply’s plastic cable guide. You’re doing great!
Step 40
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those four screws holding the power supply in place. They’re just waiting for you to set them free:
– Three shiny 35 mm silver screws that shine bright like a diamond.
– One bold 8.8 mm black screw, ready for removal!
Step 41
– Time to put your device back together! Just follow these steps in reverse and you’ll be all set.
– Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
– Things didn’t go as smoothly as you’d hoped? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our Xbox Series X Answers community for a helping hand.
– Changed your mind? No problem, just cancel this guide.
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