Xbox Series X Galaxy Wi-Fi Board Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 43 Steps
Time to hit the brakes! Make sure to power down your device and unplug all those cables. Let’s keep things safe and sound while we work our magic!
Alright, let’s get this Xbox Series X Wi-Fi board swap done! First things first, power down your console and unplug everything. Remember, while you’re working on it, keep those static shocks at bay with some basic ESD safety tips. You’re going to be a repair pro in no time!
Step 1
Before you dive in, let’s make sure everything’s powered down and all those pesky cables are unplugged from your console. Safety first, right?
Step 2
To make taking off that sticker a breeze, give it a warm embrace with an iOpener or a hair dryer.
Just peel back the sticker enough to reveal the stealthy screw hiding underneath. No need to go overboard and remove it completely.
These are technically tamper-evident stickers, but don’t stress—your warranty is safe as long as you don’t do any damage. So dive in and enjoy the process!
– Grab a trusty pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift that big sticker off the back panel. You’ll uncover the second screw hiding underneath, ready for action!
Tools Used
Step 3
Keep an eye on those screws—know where each one belongs and pop them back in their original spots to keep your console happy and healthy!
– Let’s get this party started by removing the two screws holding the back panel in place! Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and give those 7.4 mm long screws a gentle twist goodbye.
Step 5
– Grab your trusty spudger and slide the flat end into that sneaky gap between the back panel and the shell over on the right side of the base. We’re getting cozy with that little opening!
– Now, give the back panel a gentle tug to pop it free from the locking clips. Keep it smooth and steady—you got this!
Tools Used
Step 6
– Take hold of the back panel at the spot where you made your little opening. Now, gently pull it upwards and away from the shell to release those clips along the long edges.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, give a gentle press along the edges of the back panel to make sure it snaps back into place – like a puzzle piece fitting just right!
Step 7
The back panel fits snugly into a groove at the top of the shell.
– Gently lift the back panel upwards and slide it away from the top edge of the shell to let it pop free from its snug fit.
– Now, go ahead and remove that back panel!
Step 8
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get those screws out! First up, remove the three screws that hold the fan snugly in the center chassis: one shiny 10.5 mm pancake screw and two delightful 8.8 mm screws. Easy peasy!
Step 9
Hey, when you’re disconnecting cables, grab them by the connector, not the wire. You know, like a pro!
– Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grab the edges of the fan cable connector, and gently pull it up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
– When you put things back together, make sure to guide the fan cable under its little cable guide on the fan housing. This will keep it from getting in the way of the back panel.
Tools Used
Step 10
– Gently slide the fan out of its slot—easy does it!
– When putting it back, remember the fan has a one-way ticket—make sure Master Chief is looking your way. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 12
Make sure to keep that locking tab open while you get the base in motion.
Once everything clicks into place, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line will line up perfectly with the sides of your device.
– Take hold of the base and give it a counterclockwise twist to liberate it from the shell.
– Now, gently lift the base away.
– When you’re putting it back together, align those base tabs with their cozy spots in the shell and give it a clockwise twist until you hear that satisfying snap into the interior locking tab.
Step 13
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those two 8.8 mm screws holding down the optical drive’s vibration isolator. One’s hanging out on the base, and the other is chilling at the top of the isolator. Go ahead and give them a twist!
Step 14
The vibration isolator has silicone pads that hug the optical drive. It might be a bit tricky to get it off, so you might need to gently wiggle it free from each side.
– Gently pop up the optical drive’s vibration isolator to take it out.
– When putting it all back together, make sure to press the vibration isolator down around both edges of the optical drive, so it snuggles perfectly with the rest of the center chassis.
Step 15
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Keep it cool and gentle, just like a pro.
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the optical drive power connector. Give it a little tug upwards to disconnect it from the optical drive.
– Now, using your fingers, gently pull up to disconnect the data cable from the optical drive. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 16
Make sure that drive is perfectly aligned! If it’s not, you won’t be able to put the vibration isolator on right and the disc reader won’t line up with the front of the console. Think of it like a dance: everything needs to be in sync!
– Grab the top edge of the optical drive and gently slide it out of its slot in the shell—easy does it!
– When putting it back together, make sure the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive line up with the guide holes in the shell. You’ve got this!
Step 17
Handle those ribbon cables and their connectors with care – they’re a bit delicate! So, when you’re opening those locking tabs, do it slowly and gently. Give those cables a tender tug, and you’ll be just fine! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to give that metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable a little flip. It’s like giving it a high five, but with a tool!
– When you’re putting things back together, gently snap that metal locking tab back into place once the cable is snug. It’s like a little hug for the cable!
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug! Just remember, it’s the tab you want to pull, not the cable itself.
If the USB port cable seems a bit stuck to the metal frame, don’t panic! Grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm it up gently. Depending on your Xbox model, you might also need to sneak an opening pick under the cable to break the adhesive’s hold.
– Grab those tweezers and gently lift the black plastic pull tab. This will help you disconnect the USB port cable without a hitch!
Tools Used
Step 19
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but remember, keep your hands off the cable itself!
Make sure to press down on that metal tab before you pull on the cable. Otherwise, you might end up giving the cable or connector an unwanted workout!
– Grab your spudger and gently press down on the metal tab of the power button cable’s connector—think of it as giving it a little nudge.
– While holding the tab down, use your tweezers to lift the pull tab and disconnect the cable from the chassis. Easy does it!
– When putting it back together, the cable should give a satisfying little ‘click’ as it snaps into place. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to unscrew! Carefully take out the three 7.4 mm screws that are holding the center chassis assembly snugly to the shell. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Depending on your Xbox model, you might find the adhesive hanging out on the underside of the cable. If that’s the case, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer and give that cable a little warmth.
– Time to give that USB port ribbon cable some love! Gently peel it off the heatsink. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 22
Alright, let’s get this center chassis out! You’ll see some guide pegs holding it in place. Just gently nudge those pegs out of their slots, and the chassis will be ready to lift out. Easy peasy!
– Grab the center chassis and gently pull it towards the cheerful green fan grille residing at the top of the shell, setting those guide pegs free from their cozy home.
– Carefully lift the center chassis assembly out like a pro and say goodbye to the shell for now.
– When you’re putting everything back together, keep an eye on those ribbon cables—let’s not let them get squished while you lower that center chassis back into its snug spot!
Step 23
– Let’s release that chassis strap on the power supply’s right side. Think of it like unbuckling a seatbelt for your tech friend.
Step 24
– Gently tug the chassis strap and slide it off the power supply.
– With the strap free, tuck the loose end out of the way for now.
Step 25
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get those screws moving! Start by unscrewing the three screws that are holding the power cable port snugly to the chassis:
– You’ll need to take out two screws that are 13.1 mm each.
– And don’t forget the one extra screw that’s 35 mm!
Step 26
– Gently pop the power connector out of its cozy little home in the chassis.
Step 27
– Flip the latch and lift the lid off the plastic guide for the power cable. You’ve got this!
Step 28
– Gently pull the power cable out from under that extra section of the cable guide, and give yourself a little pat on the back for being so clever!
Step 29
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and tackle that 8.8 mm screw holding the power supply corner cover in place. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and get ready to tackle those three 9.6 mm screws holding the accessory antenna board snugly to the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Give that antenna board a gentle tug straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it. You got this!
– When you’re back at it, just line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and give it a little push to reconnect. Easy peasy!
Step 33
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and let’s get those screws off the board shield! You’ll be tackling nine in total:
– First up, six black screws measuring 8.8 mm – they’re ready to be set free!
– Next, you’ve got two silver screws that are 35 mm long – let’s give them some attention too!
– And finally, there’s one little 13.1 mm silver screw waiting for its turn.
– With these steps, you’ll be well on your way to getting that shield off. If you hit any snags, feel free to schedule a repair for some extra hands!
Step 34
– Gently lift up the board shield to pop it out of the center chassis with ease!
Step 35
– Alright, let’s get this chassis strap unhooked! Gently detach it from the locking tabs on each side of the power supply. It’s like giving it a little high five, but with less enthusiasm (and less risk of getting slapped).
Step 36
– Let’s take off that chassis strap! It’s time to get into the nitty-gritty of your device. You’ve got this!
Step 37
Always grab the cables by their connectors—it’s the classy way to do it—and skip tugging on the wires themselves!
– Squeeze that little locking tab on the 10-pin power connector like it’s a stress ball and you’re ready to let it go!
– While you’re keeping that tab pressed, gently lift the connector straight up to free it from the board—like a magician pulling a rabbit out of a hat!
Step 38
– Give that locking tab on the 2-pin power connector a gentle squeeze to keep it nice and secure!
– While still holding that tab in, carefully lift the connector straight up to free it from the board.
Step 39
– Lift up the cover on the plastic cable guide of the power supply.
Step 40
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those four screws that keep the power supply snug as a bug around its edge:
– Three shiny 35 mm silver screws ready to make their debut
– One sneaky 8.8 mm black screw lurking around
Step 41
– Time to unplug the power supply and give your device a little breather!
Step 42
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and take out those three 8.8 mm screws holding the Wi-Fi antenna board in place. You’ve got this!
Step 43
Hold your horses! Make sure the antenna board is fully free before you start lifting it up.
– Give the antenna board a gentle tug and pull it straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it. You’ve got this!
– Now, it’s time to let go of the antenna board. Just remove it and say goodbye for now!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis. A little press, and you’re reconnected like old friends!
