Apple iBook G4 Reed Switch Board Replacement Guide – DIY Tutorial for Mac
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to take your time and follow each step carefully. If you hit a snag or need a hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. We’re here to help you get your device back in action!
Hey there tech wizard! Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to take charge of the magic that is sleep sensing.
Step 2
– Give those keyboard release tabs a gentle tug towards you (they’re the ones in yellow) and lift the keyboard upwards until it pops right out. Easy peasy!
– If your keyboard is feeling a bit stubborn, grab a small flathead screwdriver and give that locking screw (the orange one) a 180-degree twist in either direction, then try lifting it again.
– Now, flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and let it rest face-down on the trackpad area like it’s taking a little break.
Step 3
Hey there! Don’t worry if these screws seem a bit stubborn. They’re just playing hard to get because they love hanging out with the RAM shield. We’ve made sure they stay put so you don’t have to go on a wild screw chase. Just a little bit of patience, and you’ll be sailing smooth in no time!
– Get ready to party with your device! Loosen up those four silver Phillips screws holding down the RAM shield.
Step 4
Hey there, don’t worry about those four captive screws – they’ll pop right out along with the RAM shield!
– Time to get your hands a little dirty! Gently take off the RAM shield from your computer and let’s keep this repair train rolling!
Step 5
– Gently lift the keyboard cable away from the logic board, making sure to grip it as close to the connector as you can. We want to keep it safe and sound!
– When putting your iBook back together, don’t forget to plug in that keyboard cable before you secure the RAM shield. It’s like giving your device a big, warm hug!
Step 6
– Let’s give the display a little break and turn the computer upside down.
– Using a T8 Torx screwdriver, bid farewell to those three hex screws.
– Remember, the center stage belongs to the shorter screw – show it the way out with style!
Step 7
– Grab a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver and gently pop off those three rubber feet from the bottom case. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 8
Each bumper houses a sneaky little screw underneath—keep an eye out for all three!
– Time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the three screws that just made their grand entrance.
Step 9
– Grab a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver and gently lift up those three metal rings that are keeping the rubber bumpers snug. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 10
– Unscrew those two Phillips screws hanging out on each side of the battery contacts. You’ve got this!
Step 11
Keep calm and take a deep breath. Tough times are coming, but rest assured, the lowercase will eventually come off.
– Gently press in the slim edges of the lower case around the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to release that corner of the lower case. You’ve got this!
Step 12
– Alright! To get started, locate the sneaky slot on the wall of the battery compartment. Grab a trusty small flathead screwdriver and gently nudge out the lower rim of the slot. Now, it’s time to show that lower case who’s boss! Give it a little tug upwards to unhook it from those sneaky tabs playing hard to get.
Step 13
– Gently glide a spudger along the seam where the lower case meets the upper case at the front of your device to release those pesky tabs holding the lower case in place. Once you’ve done that, give the lower case a little lift and keep using the spudger as needed until you hear three satisfying clicks. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 15
– First things first, we’ve got three sneaky tabs hiding over the optical drive that need to be set free before we can lift off the lower case. Grab your trusty spudger and slide it into the lower case just above the optical drive. Now, gently glide it towards the back of the computer until you hear those satisfying three clicks. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 16
The front and sides of the lower case are now all clear and ready for action!
– Flip your computer around so the back is facing you. Now, gently lift the lower case towards you until those pesky back tabs pop right out.
– A little wiggle up and down can work wonders, so don’t hesitate to give it a try!
Step 17
– Gently take out those little greasy springs with white plastic caps on each side of the battery contacts. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Get ready to jazz things up by removing the super important 10 screws from the bottom shield:
Step 19
– Gently pop off the bottom shield.
Step 20
– Get ready to rock by removing that one cool Phillips screw holding the DC-In board in place!
Step 21
To get started with a bit of fun, you might want to un-tape the DC-In board cable from the case.
– Gently tilt the DC-In board out of its cozy little home.
Step 22
– Gently peel the DC-In cable away from the sticky stuff holding it to the logic board.
Step 23
Gently wiggle the connector alongside the logic board while applying a little tug—this might just do the trick for a smooth removal!
– Unplug the DC-In cable from the logic board and give it a little wave goodbye!
Step 24
– Time to get your trusty screwdriver out! Take a moment to unscrew the 11 screws from the bottom of your computer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Time to give your computer the royal treatment! Place it gently on a soft cloth to keep that logic board feeling cozy throughout the repair process.
– Flip your computer over and get ready to dive in!
– Unscrew the 3 Phillips screws from around the keyboard area. They’re just waiting to be released!
– Remember, the shorter screw finds its home in the lower left corner. You can spot it easily with a blue ‘L’ marking in the photo, which is actually on the right side.
Step 26
Step 27
Hey there repair pro! Just a heads up – those little sockets hanging out in the motherboards of iBooks are super delicate, so handle with care when you’re disconnecting stuff. Better safe than sorry! Need a hand? Don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.
– Gently lift the upper case just enough to unplug the blue and white power cable from the logic board. With a little finesse, use your fingernails to nudge that connector free from its socket.
– Next up, carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board using the same gentle approach. You’re doing great!
Step 28
– Time to get those screws out! Start by removing the 16 screws listed below:
– When you’re putting everything back together, remember to guide the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable. This will keep the cable snug against the upper case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Gently lift up the top shield from the right side, paying special attention to the upper left corner which might snag on the metal framework.
Step 30
– Time to unplug the Reed Switch board connector from the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Unscrew those three little screws right there!
Step 32
Here’s a handy diagram of the ribbon clamp connector you’ll be disconnecting in the next step. Let’s get to it!
– 1) Grab the locking bar on either side with your nails and gently lift it up a smidge (around 1/16″ or 2 mm). You’re doing great!
– 2) Once the locking bar is free, slide that cable right out of the connector with ease. Nice work!
Step 33
– Go ahead and pop that optical drive ribbon clamp open, just like we talked about earlier. Now, gently slide the optical drive ribbon out of its cozy connector. You’re doing great!
Step 34
– Gently lift the optical drive out of the metal framework and give it a little wiggle if it’s feeling stubborn.
Step 35
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the reed switch cable snug against the optical drive. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Gently peel off the reed switch board from the optical drive. It’s just hanging out there, stuck with some double stick tape.
– And voilà, the reed switch board is free!
