DIY iBook G4 14.1 42 GHz RJ-11 Board Replacement Tutorial

– Grab a coin and give the battery locking screw a cool 90-degree clockwise twist.

– Gently lift out the battery from your device – easy peasy!

– Gently tug on the keyboard release tabs (highlighted in a cheerful yellow) towards you and give the keyboard a little lift until it pops free.

– In case the keyboard is being a bit stubborn, grab a small flathead screwdriver and twist the keyboard locking screw (colored in a playful orange) 180 degrees in any direction before giving it another try.

– Now, flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and place it gently face-down on the trackpad area.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and gently loosen those four shiny silver screws holding the RAM shield in place. You’ve got this!

– Time to give your computer some space! Remove that RAM shield with care.

– Gently lift the keyboard cable from the logic board, remembering to hold it as close to the connector as you can. You got this!

– As you put your iBook back together, don’t forget to reconnect that keyboard cable before you pop the RAM shield back in place. It’s like a little puzzle, and you’re doing great!

– Let’s wrap up the display and give the computer a little flip.

– With your trusty T8 Torx screwdriver at hand, let’s say goodbye to those three hex screws.

– Don’t forget, the quickest route to success is tackling that center screw first!

– Grab a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver and gently pop off those three rubber feet from the bottom case. You’ve got this!

– Time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the three screws that just made their grand entrance.

– Grab a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver and gently lift up those three metal rings that are keeping the rubber bumpers snug. You’ve got this!

– Unscrew those two Phillips screws hanging out on each side of the battery contacts. You’ve got this!

– Gently press the slim edges of the lower case around the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to release that corner of the lower case. You’ve got this!

– Look out for that little slot on the wall of the battery compartment; it’s the secret lock keeping the lower case snug and secure! Grab a small flathead screwdriver and gently pry at the lower edge of that slot. With a bit of finesse, lift the lower case up and release it from those sneaky tabs holding it back. You’re doing great!

– Glide a trusty spudger gently along the cool seam where the lower case and upper case of the computer meet. Ease those tabs apart like a boss. Lift the lower case with a smile and keep spudging until you hear three satisfying clicks.

– Keep that spudger moving around the front right corner like a pro! You’ll find two little tabs on the port side of your device—one hanging out near the front corner and the other chilling by the sound-out port. You’ve got this!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! First up, you’ll need to pop off three tabs located over the optical drive before the lower case can make its grand exit. Grab your trusty spudger and slide it into the lower case right above the optical drive. Now, gently glide it towards the back of the computer until you hear three satisfying clicks. You’ve got this!

– Give the computer a little spin so the back is facing you and gently coax the lower case up and towards you until the back tabs enthusiastically spring free.

– Feel free to give the case a slight wiggle up and down; it may just help out.

– Gently pop out those little greasy springs with the white plastic caps from each side of the battery contacts. You’ve got this!

– Let’s jazz things up a bit by removing these 10 screws from the bottom shield:

– Gently pop off the bottom shield.

– Unscrew the lone Phillips screw that’s holding the DC-In board in place.

– Gently maneuver the DC-In board out from its cozy compartment.

– Gently peel the DC-In cable away from its sticky friend on the logic board.

– Unplug the DC-In cable from the logic board with care.

– Let’s kick things off by removing the 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

– Flip your computer over and pop it open like a treasure chest.

– Unscrew those 3 Phillips screws hanging out at the edges of the keyboard area.

– Remember, the shorter screw is a little shy and prefers the lower left corner, marked by a friendly blue ‘L’ in the picture on the right side.

– Gently lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to carefully disconnect the trackpad connector that’s cleverly tucked away under the white plastic tab. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the upper case just enough to wiggle free that blue and white power cable from the logic board. Use your trusty fingernails to carefully pop the connector out of its snug little socket.

– Now, it’s time to delicately detach the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board in the same careful manner. You’ve got this!

– Got a bunch of screws to deal with first. Say goodbye to these 16 screws:

– When putting things back together, make sure the screw close to the left hinge slides through the loop in the display cable. This helps keep the cable safe and sound on the upper case.

– Gently lift the top shield from the right side, keeping an eye on the upper left corner to prevent it from snagging on the metal framework.

– Time to bid farewell to those two Phillips screws keeping the white plastic fingers of the I/O bezel cozy with the metal framework.

– Remember, when reassembling, the lengthier screw befriends the longer finger, cozying up next to the display.

– Elevate the left side of your device and gently push the I/O bezel to the side.

– Slide a spudger in between the RJ-11 board and the metal frame, then gently nudge the RJ-11 board away from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Unplug the RJ-11 cable from the modem.