Samsung Galaxy Tab S7+ 5G Battery and Frame Assembly Replacement

– Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the device for three minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

– Inside the display assembly, you’ll find a long circuit board running parallel to the bottom edge—think of it as the display’s backbone.

– Check out this example image showing a damaged display that’s starting to peel away from the glass panel—sometimes, the damage is more obvious than you think.

– Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you made earlier.

– Carefully guide the pick along the bottom edge of the device toward the bottom-right corner.

– Heat up a iOpener and hold it against the right edge of the device for about two minutes to soften up the adhesive underneath. This helps make the next steps easier and smoother. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Swing your opening pick around the bottom-right corner like a pro.

– Keep that pick chillin’ right there—don’t let the sticky adhesive close the gap again.

– Grab a new opening pick and gently insert it into the gap you made at the bottom right corner.

– Carefully slide the pick along the right edge of the device, moving up towards the top-right corner.

– Place a heated iOpener on the top edge of the device and hold it there for about two minutes. This will help soften the adhesive underneath, making it easier to open. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Time to rotate the opening tool around the top-right corner of your device.

– Leave the tool in position to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick where you made that gap.

– Gently slide the pick along the top edge of your device, heading towards the top-left corner.

– Gently apply a heated iOpener to the left side of the device to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. It’ll make the next step way smoother. You’ve got this!

– Gently twist the opening pick around the top-left corner of your device.

– Keep that pick in place to stop the adhesive from making a comeback!

– Slip a fresh opening pick into the gap you made.

– Gently glide it along the left edge, heading toward the bottom-left corner.

– Swing your opening pick around the bottom-left corner like you’re tracing a line.

– Keep that pick right where it is to block the sticky stuff from sealing up again.

– With the top of your device facing you, gently lift the bottom edge of the screen, pulling it away like you’re flipping open a book.

– Rest the screen upside down and give yourself a moment before moving on.

– During reassembly:

– This is the perfect time to power on your device and test out all the functions before sealing it back up. Just remember to turn it off completely once you’re done testing.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to remove any leftover adhesive bits. A little high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol on a cloth will do wonders to clean up any sticky residue.

– If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. If you’re using double-sided tape, check out this guide.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the display cable’s press connector from the back of the screen. When reconnecting press connectors like this one, carefully line up the connector and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle to prevent bending the pins and causing permanent damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab those tweezers or just use your fingers to keep the display cable steady.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently lift up to disconnect the fingerprint sensor’s press connector from the display cable.

– Remember how the display cable is positioned—this will help you bend it the same way when it’s time to connect your shiny new screen.

– Gently lift the screen away from the frame, making sure not to force anything. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out all fifty of the tiny 3 mm screws holding the frame bracket in place.

– Check out the third photo for a visual guide—each section is color-coded by quadrant so you can keep track of your screws during reassembly:

– Bottom left: 9 screws

– Bottom right: 14 screws

– Top right: 12 screws

– Top left: 15 screws

– Gently lift the frame bracket off the frame, and guide the display cable through its slot like threading a needle—steady hands win the day!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the battery’s press connector from the motherboard. If you need a hand with this, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the press connector of the daughterboard interconnect cable from the motherboard. Take your time to disconnect it carefully and avoid any damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew those two 2 mm screws holding the charging daughterboard in place. Easy peasy!

– Slide a spudger into the gap between the charging daughterboard and the frame.

– Gently pry up using the spudger to pop those clips that are holding the charging daughterboard in place.

– Gently pull the charging daughterboard out of its slot, using your fingers to guide it free from the frame.

– Flip the charging board carefully, making sure the coaxial cables don’t twist too much in the process.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the press connector holding the interconnect cable to the charging daughterboard, then disconnect it.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the interconnect cable away.

– Set the cable aside — you’ll need it again when reassembling.

– Grab your trusty spudger point and gently pry up the brown and green coaxial cables from the bottom of the daughterboard. Take your time—patience makes perfect! When you’re ready to put everything back together, reconnecting these can be a bit finicky. Just hold each connector over its socket one at a time, then give it a firm press with the flat end of your spudger. The connector should click into place nicely. If you need some extra help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take the tip of your spudger and gently pop the white coaxial cable off the top of the daughterboard. Go slow and steady—no need to rush!

– Lift the daughterboard out of the frame—handle it with care, like a delicate slice of pizza.

– When putting everything back together, remember to reconnect the interconnect cable to the daughterboard before you tighten the screws. Trust us, your future self will thank you!

– Grab that spudger and gently slide the flat end under the display cable’s connector. Give it a little pry to disconnect it from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Now, do the same thing for the fingerprint sensor cable that’s cozying up to the display cable. Easy peasy!

– Gently lift the display cable free with your fingers—no tools needed!

– Keep the cable somewhere safe for later; you’ll be popping it back in when it’s time to put everything together again.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the keyboard dock port cable’s press connector from the motherboard. Take your time—patience is key here. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently pry up and disconnect the front camera’s press connector from the motherboard. Take it easy – it’s just a little tug!

– Next, use your tweezers (or your fingers, if you’re feeling adventurous) to carefully lift the front camera out. It’s a quick and easy move!

– Grab your spudger and gently slide the flat end under the microSD card reader’s press connector, then give it a little nudge to disconnect it from the motherboard. Nice and easy, no rush!

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the green coaxial cable from the left side of the motherboard—nice and easy does it.

– Give the same careful treatment to the brown coaxial cable.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the 5G mmWave antenna’s press connector from the motherboard—easy does it!

– Grab some tweezers and gently pull the antenna out of the frame by its bracket—think of it as a tiny treasure hunt!

– Carefully remove the 5G mmWave antenna, giving it a little wiggle if needed.

– Set the antenna aside for now—you’ll be reusing it when it’s time to put everything back together. Easy does it!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the two press connectors for the rear camera that are attached to the motherboard. Easy does it!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the power button cable’s press connector from the motherboard. Easy does it—disengage the connection carefully to avoid any damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your spudger and gently lift the yellow coaxial cable of the bottom-right loudspeaker from the motherboard—think of it as giving it a little friendly tug. When reconnecting, take your time: hold each connector over its socket, then gently press down with the flat end of the spudger until it clicks into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently detach the coaxial cable from the frame, ensuring it’s fully freed from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the interconnect cable’s press connector, and carefully pop it off from the motherboard.

– Gently use the pointed end of your spudger to pop up and disconnect the top-right loudspeaker’s blue coaxial cable from the motherboard.

– Do the same for the white coaxial cable—easy does it!

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and let’s tackle those three 2 mm screws holding the motherboard snugly to the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide a spudger into the gap between the motherboard and the frame, like you’re opening a tiny treasure chest.

– Carefully pry up with the spudger to unclip the motherboard from its mountings—think of it as giving it a gentle lift out of its cozy spot.

– Lift out the motherboard, making sure to keep track of all the cables and connectors.

– When putting everything back together, start by securing the motherboard screws first to get it aligned just right, then reconnect all the cables to finish up smoothly.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and gently unscrew the tiny 2 mm screw that’s holding the antenna board snug against the frame. You’re doing great!

– Slide a spudger into the little gap between the antenna board and the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently pry up with the spudger to pop the antenna board free from the frame. Keep going, you’re doing great!

– Carefully lift out the antenna board. Almost there!

– Place a heated iOpener on the top of the device and hold it there for about 90 seconds. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide the tip of an opening pick between the frame and the metal bracket holding the keyboard dock port cable. Twist the pick slightly as you lift to loosen the adhesive and free the component. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab some tweezers or just your fingers and gently pull the keyboard dock port cable straight out of its socket. Then, carefully remove the cable itself. Set the cable aside—you’ll be reattaching it during the reassembly. If you need help at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

– Place a heated iOpener along the left edge of the device and hold it there for about two minutes. This helps soften the adhesive, making the next steps easier. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide an opening pick between the bottom-left loudspeaker’s copper connector pads and the frame.

– Gently pry up and wiggle the pick to slice through the adhesive and free the pad from the frame.

– Use the opening pick to carefully slice along the bottom of the connector’s cable, freeing it from the frame. Take your time and stay gentle—you’re almost there! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently wiggle those blue and white coaxial cables out of their cozy little groove in the frame using your fingers. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the loudspeaker away from the frame.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and set it aside for now—you’ll need it again when you put everything back together.

– Keep the speaker safe so it’s ready for the grand reassembly.

– When you’re rebuilding, make sure the blue coaxial cable is threaded back after you seat the bottom-left speaker into your new frame.

– Slide an opening pick in between the top-left loudspeaker cable and the frame—let’s get in there!

– Carefully slice through the adhesive while gently lifting with the pick to free the cable from the frame.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the top-left loudspeaker away from the frame. It’s like a little dance!

– Carefully lift out the top-left loudspeaker and say goodbye for now.

– Put that speaker aside; it’s going to join the party again during reassembly!

– Place a warm iOpener on the top-left corner of your device and let it work its magic for about two minutes. It’s like giving your device a mini spa treatment!

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap between the rear camera and the frame, like you’re slipping in a tiny crowbar.

– Carefully rotate the pick around the edges of the rear camera to cut through the adhesive, making sure not to force it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently pry up the rear camera using a plastic pick to free it from the frame.

– Carefully remove the rear camera from the device.

– Set the camera aside—you’ll be reusing it when putting everything back together.

– The top-right loudspeaker connector is held in place with adhesive. A little heat will help you safely remove it without damaging anything.

– Place a heated iOpener on the right edge of the device for about two minutes to loosen things up.

– Slide an opening pick between the loudspeaker’s connector pads and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Gently slice through the adhesive while lifting with the pick to free those pads from the frame. Keep it steady!

– Grab a spudger and gently work your way around the loudspeaker to separate it from the frame.

– Once it’s loose, carefully remove the loudspeaker.

– Place the speaker aside for now—you’re going to need it again when putting things back together.

– When you’re ready to reassemble, make sure to rethread the green and brown coaxial cables after you slot the top-right speaker into the new frame.

– Slide an opening pick between the bottom-right loudspeaker cable and the frame. Take it slow, no rush!

– Gently slice through the adhesive while lifting with the pick to free the cable from the frame. It’s like unwrapping a present, but more techy!

– Gently use your fingers to free the white coaxial cable from its groove in the frame. No need to rush, take your time.

– Next, carefully transfer and rethread that white coaxial cable into your new frame. It’s like giving it a new home!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the bottom-right loudspeaker from the frame. You’re doing great!

– Carefully lift out the bottom-right loudspeaker.

– Place the speaker to the side for now; you’ll be bringing it back into action during reassembly.

– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to rethread the white coaxial cable after sliding the bottom-right speaker into your shiny new frame.

– Place a pick between the microSD reader’s connector pads and the frame.

– Gently pry upwards while cutting through the adhesive to lift the pads away from the frame.

– Slide a pick into the bottom-right peg hole and gently wedge it between the hole and the frame.

– Give the pick a little spin along the perimeter of the peg hole to carefully free it from the frame.

– Slide a pick gently between the top of the microSD reader and the frame.

– Carefully rotate the pick around the edge of the microSD reader to cut through the adhesive.

– Ready to put your device back together? Just retrace your steps and follow the instructions in reverse. You’ve got this!

– Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped, don’t worry! A little troubleshooting can go a long way, and our Answers community is here to help.

– Remember, every repair is a learning experience!