AirPods Max Teardown

– So, you’re diving into the world of AirPods Max, which will set you back a cool 550 US dollars. What awesome goodies come with that investment?

– You’ll find two 40 mm dynamic drivers designed by Apple themselves, ready to rock your audio experience.

– They come with two stylish, color-matched magnetic ear cushions for that comfy fit.

– Inside, you’ve got two powerful Apple H1 chips to keep everything running smoothly.

– With eight microphones working hard for active noise cancellation, you’ll be able to enjoy your tunes in peace.

– Bluetooth 5.0 is here with support for the AAC codec, ensuring your connection is as solid as your beats.

– And let’s not forget the soft-touch Smart Case and a Lightning-to-USB-C cable for easy charging on the go.

– Let’s kick things off by unwrapping the goods!

– The Smart Case comes wrapped in its own neat little protective paper, keeping things fresh and pristine for you.

– Surprisingly, the Smart Case doesn’t cover as much as you’d expect. Think of it more like Smart Shorts, if you will.

– The wrapper is a slick, single-piece design that likely took a small army of engineers to create. And now, it’s heading straight to the recycling bin.

– Alright, before we dive deeper, it’s time to give these gadgets a little X-ray love (or rather, let our pals at Creative Electron handle the X-ray magic).

– And wow, this X-ray is packed with some seriously impressive see-through details! Here’s what we see:

– Two battery cells cozying up in the same ear cup.

– Big dual-ring speaker driver magnets, plus speaker units that look like they’re held in place with screws—a promising sign!

– Plenty of tiny alignment magnets, brackets for the various microphones, and a few more handy screws.

– Take a look at the X-ray of the ear cup opposite the batteries; it seems to be missing a counter-weight, just a bit of empty space. Could it be hiding out somewhere else? We’ll keep our eyes peeled!

– If you’re ready to take a closer look—and even peek around—Creative Electron has your back. Check out this short video showing you an orbit around the AirPods Max.

– In the video version, it’s much easier to spot all those screws (woohoo!) and get a better sense of the depth and layers within each ear cup.

– Pause for a second: Are we tearing down an Apple Watch or cracking open some AirPods?

– Check out the bottom edge of these AirPods Max—plenty of little holes, but sorry, no classic round headphone jack here.

– Start by popping off the magnetic ear cushions. Yes, you read that right—these are actually designed to be swapped out by users. Apple, who are you?

– If you’re on the hunt for the Apple logo, it’s hiding in plain sight on these headphone cups.

– The Digital Crown has had a major glow-up—it’s now triple the size, and takes care of your volume and playback controls.

– Wired listening? That’s handled by the Lightning port, which also charges your headphones. Heads up: if you want to listen with a cable, you’ll need to grab one separately. Classic Apple move.

– Take a look under the ear cushions—wait a minute, are those holes? And hey, are those screws we see? Time for a little zoom-in action!

– Good news first: No sticky glue mess here! These are already shaping up to be a welcome change from the usual AirPods we’ve had to dissect before.

– Now, for the not-so-great part: these are Pentalobe screws. But don’t worry, we’ve got this covered! We came prepared with our trusty Marlin Screwdriver Set, ready to tackle all 15 screw types.

– This is where the real work kicks in.

– Those screws had us feeling hopeful, but they have a bit of a mind of their own. They’ll turn a little in each direction, then stop right in their tracks.

– If you force them out like we did, you might hear the unsettling sound of loose bits rattling around inside the earcups… but they’ll still stay sealed. Weird, right?

– Turns out, those screws aren’t meant to come out completely—just twist them a little, about a quarter turn, to free a locking wedge on the other side. Our friends over at Snazzy Labs have a great video that shows exactly what this looks like, and they also review the AirPods Max sound. Worth checking out!

– Next up: the dreaded adhesive. Yep, turning the screws and popping the locks won’t cut it. Now, it’s time for the heat gun, which needs to be used carefully to avoid melting the plastic.

– There’s barely any space to pry these apart—trying it could cause some damage. Since the screws are already out, we use a dental pick to hook under the screw holes and pull. And voilà, we’re in!

– Time to say goodbye to those ear cup grilles! Hidden inside each one is a sneaky little microphone, likely keeping tabs on what you’re listening to. Maybe it’s sending the info to the H1 chip for some EQ magic—or who knows, maybe it’s headed straight to Tim Cook’s earpiece.

– Each 40mm driver is held in place with a handful of screws, including one big, chunky standoff. We’re momentarily stumped but grab our trusty Mahi driver kit. A torq-set #6 bit doesn’t fit perfectly, but it’ll do the job just fine.

– Once the screws are out, the drivers pop right off, revealing a couple of repair-friendly spring contacts underneath. Nice and tidy!

– Now, with some room to work, it’s time to go after the battery. As shown in the X-ray, both battery cells are snug in the right ear cup, connected by a single cable.

– The two cells, made by Sunwoda, are wired in parallel, giving us a combined capacity of 664 mAh and 2.53 Wh at 4.35 V. Each cell measures about 5.7 x 20 x 28 mm.

– Good news! The cells are held in place with screws, not glue. Even better, they use a single pop connector—no soldering required.

– That wasn’t too bad, especially for an AirPods device. If it weren’t for the sticky opening process, it’d almost be a breeze. Just think—replacing a part instead of tossing the whole thing.

– This matches the 2.39 Wh battery in the Bose NC 700 headphones, which also give around 20 hours of listening. Sony WH-1000XM4s offer a bit more, with a 30-hour runtime thanks to a 4.1 Wh battery.

– Next up: the logic board. Each side has its own unique board—we took out both and relied on our fantastic community of fixers to help identify all the silicon. And yep, they totally nailed it.

– For the best resolution, check out the original image files here and here.

– Here’s a roundup of the chip IDs we’ve collected so far. Think you can find more? Let’s keep digging! We’ve got a microcontroller from STMicroelectronics—the STM32L496QG, a 32-bit Arm marvel. There’s an Apple part, 343S00404—probably a Bluetooth System on Chip (SoC). A Winbond W25Q256JW serial flash memory chip, 256 megabits of storage, is also in the mix. Cirrus Logic’s got us covered with the CS46L10A0, likely an audio codec, and the CS44L22, probably a one-channel audio amplifier. Lastly, Texas Instruments pitches in with the SN2501, likely a battery charger IC. If you’re curious or need help, remember, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to get professional assistance.

– Let’s keep going with Side A of the IC ID!

– First up, we have the Bosch Sensortec, which is probably your go-to inertial measurement unit. It’s got your back!

– Next, meet the Bosch Sensortec BMA456—this little gem is a 3-Axis accelerometer, perfect for tracking movements like a pro.

– Then, we have the NXP Semiconductor CBTL610A38, likely acting as the display port multiplexer. It’s the behind-the-scenes hero of your display!

– Don’t forget the Lattice Semiconductor LCMXO2-2000ZE MachX02 field programmable gate array. It’s versatile and ready for action!

– Now, let’s talk about the Diodes Incorporated PI3USB102E, a speedy 480 Mbps USB 2.0 switch. It’s all about that fast connection!

– Next in line is the Texas Instruments TMUX136, a 2-Ch. 2:1 analog switch that makes signal routing a breeze.

– Lastly, we have the Texas Instruments SN74AVC4T774, a 4-bit dual-supply bus transceiver. It’s reliable and ready to help you out!

– Boards, side B. Take a look and see what components are in the mix. First up, we’ve got an Apple 338S00517, which is probably your trusty power management IC. Next, a NXP Semiconductor CBTL610A38—likely the display port multiplexer doing its thing. Then there’s a Texas Instruments TLV341 operational amplifier, followed by a TLV3691 comparator, both from TI’s family of handy analog chips. You’ll also spot a Texas Instruments TPS62743, a compact 300 mA step-down DC-DC converter to keep things running smoothly. Don’t forget the Diodes Incorporated PI3USB102E, a 480 Mbps USB 2.0 switch—perfect for managing data flow. Lastly, a Maxim Integrated MAXM17552, a 100 mA step-down power module to help power your device efficiently. Keep track of what you see, and when in doubt, schedule a repair if the going gets tough.

– Four sneaky Torx screws are blocking our way to the Lightning port. Two of them are tucked away so deep, you’ll need to chain a T2 Torx bit onto a 4 mm nut driver just to reach them—talk about a tight squeeze!

– This port may put up a fight, but its removable design is a game-changer—without it, those AirPods are on a permanent battery vacation.

– Next: Take a look at those two outside slits on the lower corners of each earcup. Hidden behind each is a plastic air channel, running straight through to the space right behind the driver. It’s basically an air port.

– That’s your built-in ventilation: it lets the drivers pump out clear, powerful sound even when you crank the volume. Distortion? Not today!

– Hiding under that antenna line on the left ear cup is… you guessed it, a sneaky antenna! At first, we thought it might be some kind of counterweight to balance out the batteries in the other ear cup. Turns out, it’s lighter than expected.

– The upper microphones are held in place with tiny metal brackets that are both screwed and plastic-riveted. Every step in this teardown is a real showstopper.

– Just next door, we spot the mechanical button hardware. The button and ribbon cable pop off pretty easily, but the rest of it is secured with two tiny hex nuts—smaller than anything in our toolkit!

– Want to peek inside? Here’s an X-ray for you to get a closer look.

– A soldering iron will do the job here by melting the top off these rivets, but keep in mind, it’s not exactly the most repair-friendly method.

– Here comes the most intricate part of the AirPods Max. Ready for it?

– Does it look intimidating to open up?

– Nah, it’s not as scary as it seems!

– Headphone headbands have to do a lot—pivot, spin, and hold everything together—but this one’s doing it with its own unique spin.

– Apple’s hinge setup here is impressively complex and maybe a little over-the-top, which might help explain the AirPods Max price tag.

– After removing a handful of Torx screws, you’ll get a good look at the joint up close.

– This hinge is designed to keep the headband connected securely but comfortably, all while managing the power transfer from the battery.

– Apple’s got a wraparound flex cable tucked into the joint with clever routing and built-in strain relief, switching over to spring contacts where the headband connects. It’s a smart setup.

– After a couple of T4, T3, and even a couple of teeny-tiny T1 Torx screws, the joint finally comes apart, revealing its springs, tiny bearings, and meticulously crafted micro-housings.

– The larger springs apply just the right amount of pressure on your head, while the smaller springs do a neat little trick that we’ll get into shortly.

– So, why did Apple go all out on over-engineering these parts? Here’s why:

– The two points where the headband meets the ear cups are super important for comfort. The joint needs to move freely to sit snugly on your head but still be sturdy enough to withstand some tugging when you’re putting them on or adjusting them.

– Headphones, as we all know, are little sound machines. The drivers inside both ear cups vibrate rapidly to produce sound, so any hardware in that joint needs to be pretty tough.

– There were whispers that Apple originally wanted the AirPods Max headband to be easily swapped out, just like the magnetic ear cups. While that feature didn’t quite make it to the final design, this complex joint could still have a surprise or two up its sleeve…

– Here’s the fun part: even though the headband setup looks complicated, you can actually detach the whole thing from your AirPods Max using just a SIM card removal tool or a paperclip—no need to open up the ear cup at all.

– We were pretty surprised too. Was that tiny hole really put there with repairs in mind? Or maybe for portability? And at $550, is it starting to feel… like a bit of a deal?

– That’s it for the AirPods Max! These headphones might be a bit quirky and a tad tricky to open up, but once you’re in, they’re pretty straightforward to service. We’re fans of the screw design—love the hardware, but those screws can be a bit of a puzzle. Before wrapping things up and giving these headphones a score, there’s just one more thing to check—maybe two. If you need a hand with any tricky parts, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for some extra help.

– To get a better sense of how Apple handles big, pricey headphones, we also took apart a few other models—these don’t have Digital Crowns or Lightning ports.

– Let’s kick things off with Sony’s popular $350 WH-1000XM4s.

– This headset features a plastic build, so the casing is more see-through in Creative Electron’s X-ray scans.

– Sony’s ear cushions snap right in (and out) with a satisfying click—no magnets here. We did like the magnets though; these clips can get a little brittle and may break over time.

– Next up, we uncover a free-floating foam liner. Beneath that, the drivers are securely held in plastic cages.

– But hold on—before we get any closer, we’ve got four screws (marked and easy to spot!) inside each ear cup that are holding the outer panels in place. Instead of going deeper just yet, let’s flip it over to the other side and see what’s next!

– Flip over the left ear cup and you’ll spot a square circuit board—this is where Sony’s QN1 processor and a Mediatek Bluetooth chip hang out, along with a few other important little chips. Want a closer look? Check out those high-res images of both sides.

– On the right ear cup, you’ll find the battery! The connector is super accessible, but the 4.1 Wh cell is stuck down with some seriously stubborn adhesive. A bit of isopropyl alcohol made it budge.

– Inside both ear cups, every wire going through the plastic housing is held in place with hot glue. That means shuffling components around isn’t the easiest, and getting at the USB-C port or 3.5 mm jack under the driver housing is a hassle.

– All in all, not too shabby. There are a few quirks, but it’s a breath of fresh air compared to some of the more complicated repairs out there:

– All the screws are Phillips 00. Cushions, headband, buttons, and ports? All modular and ready to swap.

– The battery removal is a sticky situation, and the disassembly route is a little unusual.

– There’s a lot of hot glue, and the 3.5 mm jack and drivers don’t use friendly connectors.

– And here’s another one—Bose’s $380 NC 700 headphones feature a bit more metal, especially in that shiny headband.

– These ear cushions pop off their cups with a little help from a spudger—simple and practical, even if it lacks the flair of AirPods.

– Unlike the Sonys and AirPods, the cloth liner covering each speaker grille stays put when you remove the ear cushion. The L and R liners are lightly glued, so be patient when peeling them off to avoid tearing.

– Beneath the liner, you’ll spot Torx security screws keeping each ear cup sealed tight.

– Inside both cups, expect a jungle of wires—but the right cup, packed with the main circuit board, really takes the cake for cable chaos.

– That main board features a Qualcomm CSRA68105 Bluetooth audio chip. Want a closer look? Check out these high-res shots of the board: front, back.

– Check out the 2.39 Wh battery chilling next to the driver on the back. It’s got some long wires heading to a control board, but heads up—they’re soldered in place.

– Some good, some not-so-good: The headband has screws so you can loosen things up, but to actually take it off you’ll be reaching for your soldering iron. On the upside, the 2.5 mm aux jack is modular and just screwed down.

– Womp womp: The microphones aren’t going anywhere thanks to their glue cocoon. And the USB-C control board is modular, but it’s held in by plastic rivets—yep, those are single-use.

– Quick recap:

– Ear cushions, drivers, aux jack, and buttons are all there for the taking—easy to get to, easy to swap.

– The battery? Super accessible, but glued in place, and its connection to the left ear cup circuit board is soldered.

– A lot of hot glue is used to keep microphones and some other parts locked down, and the USB-C port is stuck with single-use fasteners. Disconnecting the headband is a puzzle, and full removal demands more soldering than most want to do. If you’re feeling stuck, you can always schedule a repair.

– AirPods Max are packed with precision-engineered parts, giving off serious luxury-watch vibes for a pair of headphones.

– Even with their intricate design and some quirky screws and adhesive surprises, these over-ear headphones are actually pretty repair-friendly—if you’ve got the right tools and a bit of patience.

– It’s awesome to see user-friendly features like snap-off ear cushions and a simple headband release in an Apple device.

– After peeking inside some rival headphones, it’s easier to understand that $550 price tag. Sony and Bose might cost less, but the AirPods Max craftsmanship is next-level.

– With all that in mind, these are the first AirPods to earn a non-zero repair score. Not bad at all!