Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Plus Loudspeaker Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 53 Steps
Heads up: The display panel is pretty delicate and can crack if handled roughly, so go slow and easy here.
For safety, make sure the battery is under 25% charged before popping open your tablet.
Ready to give your Samsung Galaxy Tab S7+ a fresh set of speakers? This guide will walk you through replacing all or just a few of the loudspeakers. Your device has four speakers, one in each corner, so it’s like a surround sound system built right in. Heads up though—be super careful when prying things apart! The display panel is delicate and might crack if you’re not careful. Apply some heat to make things easier, and remember to keep the battery charged below 25% before diving in to avoid any fire risks. If the battery’s looking swollen, take extra precautions. Some of the pictures show replacing the speakers one at a time, but following the steps in order will help you remove all four. Don’t forget, you’ll need some replacement adhesive to finish up. If you hit a tricky spot, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for extra help!
Step 1
– Place a heated iOpener along the bottom edge of the device to soften the adhesive underneath. This will make it easier to lift the panel without any fuss. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Make sure your device is completely powered down before you start. It’s the first step to a smooth repair journey!
The adhesive holding the Galaxy Tab S7+ display is super strong, so you’ll probably need to heat it up and reapply the iOpener a few times—both before you start and during the removal process. You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, but just be careful not to overheat the device. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 2
Be gentle with the pick—don’t go more than 2mm deep to keep the circuit board safe, or more than 3mm to avoid putting stress on the display. Take it slow and steady, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
– While you’re letting that adhesive do its thing, here are a few things to keep in mind:
– There’s a long circuit board running along the bottom edge of the screen. It’s neatly tucked in parallel to the edge.
– This image gives you a sneak peek of the display starting to separate from the glass panel. Pretty cool, right?
Step 3
– First, let that screen warm up a bit until it’s cozy to the touch. Then, grab your suction handle and stick it to the bottom edge of the screen, right up close to the edge.
– Now, gently lift the screen with the suction handle to open up a tiny gap between the screen and the frame.
– Next, slide an opening pick into that gap you just created between the frame and the screen.
– Keep the opening pick in place to make sure the adhesive doesn’t try to seal itself back up.
Keep that pick under 2 mm, or you might tickle the circuit board a bit too hard!
If your screen’s cracked up pretty bad, don’t panic! A simple layer of clear packing tape might just do the trick to help the suction cup stick. Alternatively, you can use some really strong tape instead of the suction handle if that’s easier. Worst case scenario? A little superglue on the suction cup can help it cling to the screen. Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 4
– Gently insert a new opening pick into the gap you just made, like you’re giving it a little nudge to get started.
– Then, slide that pick along the bottom edge of the device, moving it toward the bottom-right corner to loosen things up.
Step 5
– Place a heated iOpener along the right edge of the device to soften the adhesive underneath. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 6
– Gently wiggle the opening pick around the bottom-right corner of your device—think of it as a little dance move!
– Keep that pick right where it is to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 7
Keep that pick under 3 mm, or you might accidentally poke something you don’t want to!
– Insert a new opening pick into the gap you made. Then, glide the pick along the right edge of the device toward the top-right corner. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 8
– Begin by gently applying a heated iOpener along the top edge of the device to soften up that stubborn adhesive underneath. This will make lifting the screen a whole lot easier. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 9
– Gently rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the device, like you’re opening a treasure chest. Keep the pick in place afterward to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 10
– Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
– Carefully guide the pick along the top edge of the device toward the top-left corner.
Step 11
– Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 12
– Gently slide the opening pick around the top-left corner of the device.
– Leave the pick in place to keep the adhesive from sealing back up. It’s your trusty little barrier!
Step 13
– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you’ve created. Get it nice and snug.
– Now, gently glide the pick along the left edge of your device, heading towards the bottom-left corner. Keep it steady, you’re doing great!
Step 14
By now, the edges of the screen should be free from the frame. If it’s still sticking in places, grab your opening pick and gently work it along those stubborn spots to slice through the remaining adhesive.
– Gently rotate the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the device, like you’re opening a treasure chest. Keep the pick in place afterward to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 15
Hold up on pulling the screen all the way out; it’s still hanging in there with a flex cable. And remember, don’t twist or yank the screen too much—keep it friendly with the frame to avoid any flex cable drama. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Start by facing the top of your device. Gently lift the screen up and away, like you’re flipping open a book. Then, lay the screen upside down and keep it parallel to the frame before moving on. During reassembly, it’s a good idea to power on your tablet and check all functions to make sure everything’s working smoothly—just remember to turn it off completely before sealing it back up. Use tweezers or your fingers to remove any leftover adhesive chunks, and wipe away any sticky residue with some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol. If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow the specific guide for those. For double-sided tape, stick to the instructions provided. If you need help at any point, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop up and disconnect the display cable’s press connector from the screen. Take it slow—no need to rush this step.
– When it’s time to reconnect, line up the press connector, press down on one edge until you hear a satisfying click, then do the same on the other edge. Avoid mashing down on the middle—misalignment can bend the pins and that’s a headache nobody wants!
Tools Used
Step 17
– Grab those display cables with tweezers or your fingers—gentle but firm, you got this!
– Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor’s press connector from the display cable—think of it as a gentle lift.
– Pay close attention to how the display cable is positioned; you’ll want to bend it the same way when attaching a new screen—precision is key!
Step 18
– Gently detach the screen from the frame. Take your time here, no rush—patience is key!
Step 19
– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the 50 screws (each 3 mm long) holding the frame bracket in place.
– Check out the third photo—it’s got the screws color-coded by section. Super handy for keeping track during reassembly:
– Bottom left: 9 screws
– Bottom right: 14 screws
– Top right: 12 screws
– Top left: 15 screws
Tools Used
Step 20
– Gently lift the frame bracket away from the frame, making sure to guide the display cable through its socket. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 21
– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the battery’s press connector from the motherboard. Keep it careful and steady—you’re doing great! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 22
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the flat end under the display cable’s press connector to pop it free from the motherboard. You’ve got this!
– Now, give the fingerprint sensor cable a similar treatment. Just like before, lift it up from the display cable and set it free!
Tools Used
Step 23
– Gently lift the display cable with your fingers, being careful not to force anything. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 24
– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the press connector for the daughterboard interconnect cable from the motherboard. Easy does it—no wrestling moves needed!
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Step 25
– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the keyboard dock port cable’s connector from the motherboard—smooth moves only, no wrestling required!
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Step 27
– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the microSD card reader’s press connector from the motherboard. Keep it careful and steady—you’re almost there! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 28
– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop both rear camera connectors off the motherboard—like unplugging tiny, stubborn headphones!
Tools Used
Step 29
– Carefully use the flat end of a spudger to release the power button cable’s connector from the motherboard.
Tools Used
Step 30
Be careful not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a damaged battery could leak harmful chemicals or even start a fire. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently use the pointed end of your spudger to pop up and unplug the yellow coaxial cable from the lower right speaker, right where it connects to the motherboard.
– When it’s time to put things back together, these connectors can be a bit finicky. Line each one up over its spot and press down with the flat end of your spudger until you hear that satisfying click.
Tools Used
Step 31
– Gently tug the coaxial cable away from the frame, ensuring it’s fully freed from the motherboard’s grip.
Step 32
– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently lift to disconnect the press connector of the interconnect cable that’s attached to the motherboard.
Tools Used
Step 33
– Grab the pointy end of a spudger and gently lift to disconnect the blue coaxial cable from the top-right loudspeaker on the motherboard. Take your time—patience is key! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 34
– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and let’s get to work! Unscrew those three 2 mm screws holding the motherboard securely to the frame. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 35
– Slide a spudger into the gap between the motherboard and the frame—think of it as opening a stubborn bag of chips.
– Gently lever up the motherboard with the spudger to pop it free from its clips. Take your time—no need to Hulk-smash it.
– Lift out the motherboard and set it aside, preferably somewhere your cat won’t find it.
– When putting everything back together, start by tightening the motherboard screws to line it up just right, then plug in the cables. If you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 36
If you’re fixing a specific speaker, click the links below to get to the right part of the guide.
– Identify the four speakers: bottom-left, top-left, top-right, and bottom-right. Carefully disconnect each one, starting with the bottom-left speaker, then move to the top-left, followed by the top-right, and finally the bottom-right. Keep track of each connector and handle with care to avoid damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair. Proceed step by step, and you’ll have those speakers back in action in no time!
Step 37
– Gently unplug the bottom-left coaxial cable from the frame, making sure it’s fully free and untangled.
Step 39
– Grab a Phillips 00 screwdriver and loosen the 2 mm screw holding down the antenna board to the frame. If you need a hand with tools or parts, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 40
– Slide a spudger into the gap between the antenna board and the frame.
– Gently pry with the spudger to lift the antenna board away from the frame.
– Carefully remove the antenna board.
Tools Used
Step 41
The bottom-left loudspeaker connector is glued to the frame, so gentle heat can help loosen it up without risking damage. A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate works well — just be careful not to overheat the device and cause other issues. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
– Take your trusty iOpener and heat it up. Apply it to the left edge of your device for a good two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic!
Tools Used
Step 42
– Slide an opening pick into the space between the copper connector pads of the bottom-left loudspeaker and the frame.
– Gently pry upwards while cutting through the adhesive to detach the pad from the frame.
Step 43
– Use the opening pick to gently slice along the bottom of the connector’s cable. This will completely detach it from the frame, making the next steps a breeze!
Step 44
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the loudspeaker away from the frame. It’s like a little dance, so be gentle!
– Now, go ahead and lift that loudspeaker out with care!
Tools Used
Step 45
The connector for the top-left loudspeaker is glued to the frame, so applying a bit of heat helps keep things gentle and prevents tears. You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—just be careful not to overdo it and overheat the device. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Apply some heat to the left side of your device. Use a heated iOpener for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 46
– Gently slide an opening pick between the loudspeaker cable and the frame to get things started.
– Carefully slice through the adhesive while lifting with the pick to free the cable from the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 47
– Gently pop your spudger under the loudspeaker and work your way around to loosen it up from the frame. Take your time—no need to rush!
– Once it’s free, lift out the loudspeaker and set it aside. Nice work!
Tools Used
Step 48
Carefully apply some heat to loosen the adhesive that’s holding the top-right loudspeaker’s connector to the frame – this will help you avoid any tears in the connector.
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or even a hot plate to get the job done, just be sure to keep an eye on the temperature so you don’t accidentally overheat your device.
– Place a warm iOpener on the left edge of your device and let it chill there for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make your next move a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 49
– Place your opening pick between the copper connector pads on the loudspeaker and the frame.
– Gently slice through the adhesive while carefully lifting the pick to separate the pads from the frame.
Step 50
– Grab your spudger and gently pry up the loudspeaker from the frame, then carefully lift it out.
– Remove the loudspeaker completely and you’re all set for the next step.
Tools Used
Step 51
The connector for the bottom-right loudspeaker is stuck down with some pretty clingy adhesive, so grab your heat source (like a hair dryer or heat gun) to loosen things up—just don’t roast your device in the process!
– Place a heated iOpener on the right edge of the device and hold it there for about two minutes. This will help soften the adhesive and make the next steps easier. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 52
– Carefully slide an opening pick between the loudspeaker cable and the frame.
– Gently slice through the adhesive while lifting the cable with the pick to separate it from the frame.
Step 53
– Alright, it’s time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse—easy peasy.
– Before you go all-in with the new part, give it a good comparison with the original. You might need to swap over some bits or peel off those sticky backings before it fits.
– Things not going as smoothly as you’d hoped? No worries! Try a bit of troubleshooting, or if you’re feeling stuck, feel free to schedule a repair for some extra help.
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