Mac Pro Late 2013 Teardown
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 24 Steps
After debuting at WWDC 2013, the sleek new Mac Pro finally makes its way to our repair bench. Join us as we take this late 2013 Mac Pro apart, step by step. Stay connected with us on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook for all the latest updates and tips!
Step 1
– Guess what? The new Mac Pro is here, and we got our hands on the entry-level model, yours for just $2,999! Pretty sweet deal, right?
– Tech Specs:
– Rocking a Quad-Core Intel Xeon E5 with a speedy 10 MB L3 cache and a Turbo Boost that can hit up to 3.9 GHz.
– Loaded with 12 GB of 1866 MHz DDR3 ECC memory (that’s three 4 GB modules for you techies!).
– Equipped with dual AMD FirePro D300 graphics processors, each boasting 2 GB of GDDR5 VRAM. Talk about graphics power!
– Featuring 256 GB of PCIe-based flash storage to keep your files zippy.
– And don’t forget the 802.11ac Wi-Fi and Bluetooth 4.0 for all your wireless needs!
Step 2
– Believe it or not, the new Mac Pro’s design is more reminiscent of an aluminum soda can than a trash can (though hey, trash cans can be cool too—some of our favorite droids have that iconic look!).
– On the back (or whatever side you’d call it on a cylinder), you’ll find the power button, the electrical inlet, and a neat collection of ports:
– It seems like neither trash nor repairs can sneak in through the top of this sleek bin. Time to check out that intriguing lock switch…
– 3.5 mm speaker and headphone jacks
– Four USB 3.0 ports
– Six Thunderbolt 2 ports
– Dual Gigabit Ethernet ports
– HDMI 1.4 output
Step 3
We’re really hoping it’s just a little more cowbell!
– Here’s an interesting twist in design: just sliding the lock switch lets us peel away the outer shell of the Mac Pro. No stubborn screws or tricky fasteners—just straightforward access!
– What other clever repairability features will we uncover in this soda can-sized desktop? Only hands-on exploration and a few prying tools will reveal the secrets.
Tools Used
Step 4
– With the cylindrical cover off, we get our first look inside the Mac Pro. It’s like unwrapping a gift, but with way more tech inside!
– The dual graphics cards take center stage, forming a sleek pair. The only thing that breaks up their symmetry is the SSD cage, snugly sitting next to the second graphics card.
– Give the Mac Pro a gentle spin and you’ll spot the RAM slots neatly tucked on either side of the I/O panel. Everything’s arranged just right, like a well-organized desk.
Step 5
Your Mac Pro’s RAM is flexible—Apple lets you ramp it up to 16 GB (four 4 GB sticks), 32 GB (four 8 GB sticks), or even 64 GB (four 16 GB sticks).
– Here’s a bright spot: swapping out the RAM in your Late 2013 Mac Pro is a breeze.
– This model uses 4 GB DDR3L SDRAM sticks—three of them for a grand total of 12 GB, labeled Elpida EBJ04EG8BFWB-JS-F.
Step 6
You’re making great progress! We’ve only removed one screw so far, and look – the SSD is already out. And the best part? The screw is standard, so no special tools needed.
– Grab your trusty T8 screwdriver, give it a little twist, and the SSD assembly pops right out—no sweat.
– Taking a closer look, we spot some familiar tech buddies on board:
– This hardware mashup makes the Mac Pro’s SSD look suspiciously like the ones chilling inside the latest MacBook Pro Retina and MacBook Air models.
– Samsung S4LN053X01-8030 (ARM) Flash Controller
– Samsung K9HFGY8S5C-XCK0 Flash Storage
– Samsung K4P4G324EB 512 MB RAM
– Honestly, the only thing really setting them apart is a few digits at the end of the model numbers. Spooky, right?
Step 7
– Regulatory markings are moved to the bottom cover or air inlet, where you’ll find some useful info: The Mac Pro features a single fan that pulls air in from underneath, pushes it through the core, and exhausts at the top. The Late 2013 Mac Pro is model A1481 with EMC Number 2630, and it’s rated for 100-240 volts AC—making it a reliable international travel companion. If you need help with your repair, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 8
Teardown update: You asked, so we got curious. We popped the plastic top off the fan module and uncovered a whole new layer of precision engineering.
– Nestled comfortably in a cozy antenna bundle, the AirPort card connects to a small adapter board, which also links up with the fan below.
– Those three hefty screws keep the fan firmly in place, with some handy vibration-dampening rubber bumpers, just like what you’d find in an iMac.
Step 9
– Time to take a peek inside as we lift off the AirPort card and spot what looks like the familiar setup found in many Apple devices today: a Broadcom BCM4360 5G Wi-Fi 3-stream 802.11ac gigabit transceiver, a Broadcom BCM20702 single-chip Bluetooth 4.0 HCI solution with BLE support, and Skyworks SE5516 dual-band 802.11a/b/g/n/ac WLAN front-end modules. These components are the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth powerhouses, so handle with care and refer to schedule a repair if you need extra help.
Step 10
We spotted a couple of little cavities along the edges of the impeller, filled with a mysterious epoxy (both sides!). We’re guessing it’s there for some precise balancing magic, keeping the fan running smoothly and quietly like a pro.
– Pop out that shiny gold antenna array and give it a wave—it’s ready to catch all the signals.
– With the fan set free, you’ll spot a Nidec brushless DC motor inside, model AG720K01. Smooth operator, right?
– Running the show is an Allegro Microsystems A5940LPT motor controller—this little chip keeps your three-phase, sensorless fan spinning like a champ.
Step 11
The Mac Pro seems to have borrowed some inspiration from the sleek designs of the AirPort Extreme and Time Capsule – think slim, vertical, and with individual boards placed neatly on separate sides.
– Let’s take a bird’s-eye view: The Mac Pro sports a massive triangular heat sink, also known as the ‘Thermal Core’, which shares the spotlight with its dual graphics cards and CPU.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the graphics card data connectors free from their cozy sockets. The FCI Meg-Array connector you’re dealing with is the same cool type that’s been around for the G4 & G5 PowerPC processor daughtercards, and it appears to be a uniquely clever way of connecting PCI-E, featuring a bunch of pins snugly fitted in a pressed-in connector.
Tools Used
Step 12
This device holds its own against other Apple GPUs for now, but the closed-off design and limited external GPU options might mean it shows its age sooner than you’d like.
– Let’s dive right in by removing parts from the Mac Pro, starting with the central heat sink – it’s kind of the star of the show here.
– Each of the dual AMD FirePro D300 graphics cards is secured by a clamp and four screws, keeping them snug and secure.
– When comparing processing power and cost to a home-built desktop, these graphics cards could be what gives Apple the edge, potentially making it a more powerful option than custom setups.
Step 13
– On the back of your graphics card, you’ll find the following:
– Flip it over to check out the front side, where you’ll spot these ICs:
– AMD FirePro D300 graphics processor – this one’s a powerhouse!
– Elpida W2032BBBG 2 GB (8 x 2 Gb = 16 Gb = 2 GB) GDDR5 VRAM – delivering smooth, speedy graphics.
– Intersil ISL 6336 6-Phase PWM Controller with Light Load Efficiency Enhancement and Current Monitoring – keeping things efficient and under control.
– Fairchild Semiconductor DD30AJ – reliable and durable.
– International Rectifier IR3575 Synchronous Buck Gate Driver with integrated MOSFET and Schottky diode – optimizing power delivery and performance.
Step 14
This GPU—same make and model—comes all the way from Taiwan, while its counterpart is crafted in China.
– And, surprise! There’s another one—a second FirePro card, but this one’s got some unique flair.
– Here’s the cool part: this particular card is the only one with a slot for the SSD. Looks like it’s designed with future upgrades in mind—maybe higher storage models use two of these to double up on SSD power?
Step 15
– The FirePro’s main connection is a bit of a mystery, but we’ll take a look. A unique, disc-shaped daughterboard acts as the central hub at the base of the device. After carefully disconnecting the ribbon cables with a spudger, we’ll flip it over to get a better look. The connectors here are quite specialized, so while we may not understand every IC on this interconnect board, we’ll do our best to identify the purpose of each component along the way.
Tools Used
Step 16
– The logic board acts as the central hub, connecting the dual graphics cards and the I/O port board all on a single platform. To handle all this data, a team of integrated circuits is involved, including the 980 YFC LM4FS1BH System Management Controller found on the back of the daughterboard, similar to what’s used in the Mid 2013 MacBook Air updates. Other key players include the Intel BD82C602J Platform Controller Hub, the Renesas R4F2113NLG H8S/2113 16-bit Microcontroller, the ICS 932SQL435AL, the Texas Instruments LM393 Dual Differential Comparator, and the MXIC 25L6406E 64-megabit CMOS Serial Flash. If you hit a snag or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 17
– Lift up the black cover grille to reveal Apple’s secret spot for the power supply—it’s tucked right between the I/O panel and the logic board.
– The power supply’s cables are smartly tucked away, but they can be a little stubborn. Your trusty Torx driver is just what you need…
– …and just like that, the I/O board and power supply come off together as one smooth unit.
Step 18
– Time to tackle the logic board. The CPU is still hanging out, stuck to the heat sink with a slick layer of thermal paste.
– Grab your spudger and gently separate the two. Now, let’s take a look at those CPU markings:
– Turns out, swapping in a beefier CPU is totally doable. With a potential upgrade to 12 cores, you could save around $1050 compared to buying new.
– This model rocks a Quad-Core Intel Xeon E5-1620 v2, sporting 10 MB L3 cache and speeds up to 3.9 GHz with Turbo Boost.
Tools Used
Step 19
– Let’s run through the ICs hanging out on the back of your logic board:
– Flip over to the front side of the logic board and check out the lineup:
– LGA 2011 (Socket R) CPU socket—where all the processing magic happens.
– Microchip EMC1428, your 8-channel temperature watchdog.
– International Rectifier IR3575, the gatekeeper for power, complete with MOSFET and Schottky skills.
– NXP PA9517A, the I2C-bus repeater, making sure your signals stay chill.
– Texas Instruments 58872D—short and sweet, but essential.
– Intersil ISL 6367, the digital dual PWM controller hybrid.
Step 20
– Alright, let’s tackle this port issue! First up, you’ll be working with the port board—think of it as the gateway for all your device’s connections. Keep an eye out for some notable ICs on the back of this board, including the Broadcom BCM57762 Gigabit Ethernet Controller, Intel DSL5520 Thunderbolt 2 Controller, Fresco Logic FL1100 4-port USB 3.0 Host Controller, Parade PS8401A HDMI Jitter Cleaning Repeater, and Delta 8904C-F. As you go, handle everything carefully—these chips are the heart of the port’s functionality. If you hit a snag or need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to get professional help. Keep going step by step, and you’ll have that port back in action in no time!
Step 21
– Check out the front side of the port board:
– Don’t forget, there’s a standard BR2032 CMOS battery joining the party.
– Here’s the PLX Technology PEX8723 PCI Express Switch, ready to rock.
– Say hello to the Intel DSL5520 Thunderbolt 2 Controller!
– Meet the Cirrus 4208-CRZ Audio Codec, a superstar featured in the MacBook Pro 15″ Retina Display.
– Introducing the Intersil 14AIRZ F335QV, a cool little component.
– Next up, we have the Texas Instruments 58888D, a reliable companion.
– And last but not least, the Texas Instruments 58872D, always ready to lend a hand.
Step 22
Just for a fun comparison, we stumbled upon a 450 Watt PSU during our latest Steam Machine teardown. This little powerhouse, the SilverStone power supply, boasts a ‘whisper-quiet’ 80 mm fan that operates at a delightful 18 dBA minimum.
– With a solid 12.1 Volts and 37.2 Amps under its belt, this power supply is rocking 450 Watts. No separate fan here—it chills out using the main system fan, which keeps your Mac Pro humming along at a barely-there 12 dBA.
– Take a peek at that massive heat sink: thick, flat power cables from the PSU weave their way over to the logic board and graphics cards, all snuggled together inside the heat sink.
Step 23
Looks like these might be Texas Instruments MSP430 16-bit Microcontrollers, but we’re making an educated guess here.
– With the I/O panel cover belly-up, we spot one last trio of unidentified ICs, labeled as follows:
– Two M430 V380 H 39K CX88 G4
– One M430 V380 H 39K CX7S G4
Step 24
– The Mac Pro Late 2013 scores an impressive 8 out of 10 for repairability, with 10 being the easiest. Its compact design is surprisingly modular and straightforward to take apart. Non-proprietary Torx screws are used throughout, making component swaps more manageable. The case opens easily, simplifying RAM upgrades. The fan is accessible and simple to replace. While it takes some effort, the CPU is user-replaceable—so adventurous fixers can save a good amount by upgrading the processor themselves. Keep in mind, there’s no internal slot or port for extra storage, although Thunderbolt offers external options. Be cautious with proprietary connectors and tight cable routing; working on this $3,000 device without a repair manual might be tricky. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.