Nexus 9 Teardown
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 18 Steps
If you’re a fan of tablets, now’s a good time to get your hands dirty. After some big updates to the tablet scene, we’re taking a look inside the latest Nexus 9 and its revamped Android 5.0 Lollipop. Curious how it all comes apart? We’ve got you covered with this step-by-step teardown. Follow along as we carefully dismantle the shiny new device. For more tech teardowns, be sure to connect with us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter!
Step 1
– Let’s see what’s powering the Nexus 9:
– 8.9-inch IPS LCD display, 2048 x 1536 resolution
– 64-bit NVIDIA Tegra K1 dual-core processor at 2.3 GHz with a 192-core Kepler GPU
– 2 GB of RAM
– 8 MP rear camera (f/2.4) and 1.6 MP front camera
– Wi-Fi 802.11ac (MIMO), Bluetooth 4.1, and NFC
– Choose between 16 GB or 32 GB of built-in storage
– Runs on Android 5.0 Lollipop
Step 2
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– Here’s the scoop: The Nexus 9 might be branded by Google, but it’s actually an HTC-made tablet, probably with some design ideas from HTC thrown in. You can spot it easily by its model number, OP82100. Quick tip: if you’re into repairs and teardowns, there’s an Android app out there that can help you stay organized and informed. And a little language note for HTC fans: when you see the word ‘guia’ referring to a guidebook or directory, remember it’s a feminine noun, so it should be ‘la guía.’ Keep these tips in mind as you work through your repair project. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 3
– You’ll find some familiar faces on the outside of the Nexus 9.
– Check out the rear-facing camera, cozy in the top right corner of the back case, while the front-facing camera is hanging out right in the middle at the top, close to one of the two front-facing speaker grilles.
Step 4
– Great news! The rear cover is held on with some friendly clips rather than stubborn glue, so no need for fancy tools—just your trusty fingernails. Things are going smoothly until you notice the rear-facing camera is still snugly nestled in the case… and to make it trickier, the connector is on the underside of the motherboard, meaning you’ll have to remove the board to reconnect the camera. The camera’s a bit too tight in its spot, which caused it to pop out of its ZIF connector on the motherboard. Take your time and work carefully—if you need extra help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 5
A quick search reveals that this camera module is the same one used in the HTC Desire 610 smartphone. So, if you’re familiar with that device, you’re already halfway there. If you run into any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair for some extra help.
– Let’s check out the rear-facing camera—it’s got some personality! The 8 MP shooter comes with auto-focus and an LED flash, but no optical image stabilization, so keep that in mind. It’s labeled as 3BA804P1 K1419 A 1.0, just in case you need to double-check. With an f/2.4 aperture and a 29.2 mm focal length (35 mm equivalent), it’s perfect for snapping quick pics of your cat or other casual shots—definitely not the tool for capturing the Mona Lisa. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 6
– With the back panel out of the way, it’s time to do a little detective work. Check around for any other components that might be hiding or worth a poke with your spudger. Those metal contacts look like they might be useful… A quick scan reveals what seems to be the NFC antenna. Carefully peel it away from the rear case using your fingers or a plastic tool. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 7
Good news, we’ve got the tools to handle some serious spudger action.
– Alright, the battery is within reach, but it’s stuck in place with some pretty strong adhesive—think of it as a stubborn friend. The battery packs a punch with a capacity of 6700 mAh, a solid size that sits comfortably between the larger iPad Air 2 and the smaller iPad Mini Retina. Visual checks confirm these specs, with a rating of 3.8 V, 6700 mAh, and 25.46 Wh. Keep at it—careful prying and patience will get you there. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 8
– The front-facing camera stays nicely connected to the motherboard until we’re ready to gently lift it away—that’s the plan, and we’re on it.
– This modest 1.6 MP (720p), f/2.4 camera bears the markings 3BF105P1 Y1428A1.0, but don’t let its simplicity fool you—it’s an essential part of your device.
Step 9
Once again, we’ve got the perfect tool for the job with our Pro Tech Screwdriver Set. It’s the right fit, every time.
– How about we add some copper shielding? It’s a good idea!
– Now that we’ve cleared the copper shielding, let’s move on to removing the antenna board located near the top of the Nexus 9.
Step 10
– Looks like we’re in the peeling tape and unplugging cables phase—time to pick a cable and start disconnecting. With so many to choose from, just go for it!
– Revealing…another cable! Keep going, we’re making progress.
– And there we have it—the motherboard is now free and ready to come out.
Step 11
– Key components on the motherboard:
– NVIDIA Tegra K1 Dual Denver 64-bit Processor (look out for the label T4K885 01P TD590D-A3)
– Elpida/Micron Technology FA164A2MA 16 Gb (2 GB) RAM
– Samsung KLMAG2GEAC 16 Gb eMMC NAND Flash
– Broadcom BCM4354XKUBG MIMO 5G Wi-Fi 802.11ac/Bluetooth 4.0/FM Module
– Texas Instruments TI47CFP91 T65913B3D9
– 20795P1 KML1G TD1431 402391 1W
– Broadcom BCM4752 Integrated Multi-Constellation GNSS Receiver
Step 12
– Let’s keep going on our mission to disassemble the Nexus 9!
– Next up is tackling the micro-USB port board. Just a few screws to unscrew and a ribbon cable to disconnect, and we’ll be right there accessing the board!
Step 13
– Here’s another board connected up! This part links the motherboard to the lower speaker, the vibration motor, and a mysterious little component hanging out on its own cable. And guess what — it’s an Asahi Kasei AK8963 3-axis electronic compass, similar to what we saw in the Nexus 5 — probably tucked away in its own corner to keep electromagnetic interference at bay. If you need help with this step, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 14
– Looks like those tiny boards we just took out were more than just a nuisance—two of them actually make up the backs of our front-facing stereo speakers.
– Now, we’re not sound engineers here, but from what we can see, these speakers resemble low-volume earpiece ones rather than the bigger speakers you’d find in the latest iPad Air.
Step 15
– Alright, it’s time to bring in Jimmy—our trusty tool for safely coaxing out phone parts.
– With Jimmy on the job, gently remove the vibrator from its spot in the display assembly.
– Nothing surprising here—HTC is keeping it classic, not chasing the latest trends.
Tools Used
Step 16
– Alright, here comes the real challenge: separating the LCD from the rest of the display assembly. Yes, it’s possible—but be ready for a serious workout with the heat gun, loads of patience, and some careful prying.
– This adhesive is no joke—it’s some of the stickiest stuff you’ll come across in a tablet, rivaling even the stubborn glue found in devices like the Surface Pro (though thankfully, there’s a bit less of it here).
Step 17
– Using the iOpener to loosen things up, carefully pry the LCD away from the display assembly. Behind the screen, you’ll find a few tiny ICs: the Synaptics S7504B 43210570 Touchscreen Controller and the C54B M46956 422. Take your time and handle everything gently. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 18
– Nexus 9 Repairability: 3 out of 10 (10 is the easiest to repair)
– The rear case is held together by clips, so no tools or heat are needed for removal. Just be careful not to misplace your rear-facing camera!
– The battery is fairly accessible, but it’s glued in place. Thankfully, the adhesive isn’t too strong, so you won’t need heat to separate it.
– The interior is a bit of a mess with tape and delicate cables everywhere, so disassembling and reassembling it could be tricky and requires extra care.
– The LCD is glued to the front glass, which means if the screen cracks, you’ll need to replace both components together.
– The display glass is glued super firmly to the midframe, making replacement a bit of a challenge unless you manage to get the entire assembly.
Success!