How to Replace MacBook Pro 15 Inverter Camera Cable – DIY Tutorial

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 33 Steps

Follow this groovy guide to swap out that funky inverter/camera cable. It’s an easy-peasy fix, so grab your tools and let’s make your gadget feel brand new!

Step 1

– Give those battery release tabs a gentle nudge away from the battery with your fingers, then lift that battery out like you’re lifting a slice of pizza from the box. Easy-peasy!

Step 2

– Whip out your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three cheeky screws clamping down the memory door.

– Keep a keen eye on which screws came from which holes! It’s a real game changer for smooth reassembly.

Step 3

– Gently lift the memory door just enough to get a good grip on it, then slide it toward yourself and pull it away from the casing like you’re unveiling a magic trick!

Step 4

– Unscrew the dynamic duo of Phillips screws chilling near the latch in the battery compartment.

Step 5

– Alright, let’s get those 6 screws out!

Step 6

– Unscrew the fabulous four Phillips screws chilling on the port side of your computer. It’s just a small party with your screwdriver!

Step 7

– Give your computer a little twist—rotate it 90 degrees, then go ahead and pop out those two Phillips screws from the back. You’ve got this!

Step 8

– Give your computer a cool 90-degree spin and whisk away those four Phillips screws on the side. Keep the groove going!

Step 9

– Start by lifting the rear end of the case and wiggle those fingers along the sides to loosen it up. Keep moving until the sides feel free. You might have to give the case a little rock-and-roll motion up and down to unhook the front part. This bit can be a tad tricky, so stay cool! Watch out for the four sneaky tabs hiding over the DVD reader—they pop out vertically.

– Heads up for the two tiny tongues on the front left side of the upper case—they might get a bit bendy while you’re lifting off the upper case. When you’re putting it back together, they might need a gentle persuasion to slip back into the grooves of the lower case.

Step 10

– Unplug the trackpad and keyboard ribbons from the logic board, peeling off any tape that’s in the way.

– Wave goodbye to the upper case as you lift it off.

Step 11

– Unplug those two snazzy antenna cables from the Airport Extreme card like a boss.

– The snappy white antenna cable struts its stuff on the left side of the Airport Extreme card.

Step 12

– Wiggle those Airport antenna cables out of their hangout spot in the left speaker channel.

Step 13

– Unplug the iSight, inverter, and left fan cables from the logic board with a gentle tug in the direction they lay. Easy does it, champ!

Step 14

– Unplug the display data cable from the logic board like a boss.

Step 15

– Unscrew the shiny silver T6 Torx screw that’s keeping the ground loop of the display data cable tight against the casing. It’s like setting the cable free!

Step 16

– Hold the screen with one hand and unscrew these 3 little rascals:

Step 17

– Get a good grip on both sides of the display assembly and lift it up and out of the device.

Step 18

– Unscrew the two 5 mm Phillips screws located in the lower left and right corners of the display (that’s just two screws, easy peasy!).

Step 19

– Slip the flat end of a spudger in perpendicular to the display face, right between the plastic strip on the back bezel and the front bezel.

– Keeping the spudger in place, twist it away from the display to pop the front and rear bezels apart.

– Work your way along the left edge of the display until the rear bezel separates from the front bezel evenly.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 20

– Pop the flat end of your spudger into the gap between the plastic strip on the rear bezel and the front bezel. Make sure it’s perpendicular to the display for a perfect fit.

– Keep the spudger in place and give it a little twist away from the display. This will start to separate the front and rear bezels—like magic!

– Slide along the right edge of the display with your spudger, prying gently as you go, until the rear bezel is smoothly detached from the front bezel.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 21

– Wedge the flat end of your spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip on the rear bezel near the bottom corner screw holes of the display. It’s like sneaking into a cookie jar!

– Give that spudger a twist toward the rear bezel to pop it away from the front. It’s like opening a soda can!

– If needed, wiggle that gap wider between the lower edge of the rear bezel and the clutch cover until they part ways like a celebrity breakup.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 22

– Grab the bottom edge of the rear bezel, lift it up and swing it away from the display assembly like you’re opening a treasure chest to detach the top edge.

– Now, simply remove the rear display bezel from the display assembly. Voila!

Step 23

– Gently lift out the inverter board from the clutch cover.

Step 24

– Unplug the LCD backlight connector from the inverter board with a gentle tug. Just give it a little pull away from the board, and you’re all set!

Step 25

– Unplug the inverter cable by gently tugging its connector away from the socket on the inverter. Easy peasy!

Step 26

– Wrestle away those pesky yellow kapton tape pieces from the bottom left corner of the display. Show them who’s boss!

– Gently coax the three green antenna ground straps to part ways with the copper tape along the bottom edge of the LCD. It’s a delicate dance!

– Liberate the camera cable from its sticky tape shackles on the LCD. Freedom!

Step 27

– Whisk away those sneaky pieces of tape covering the display data cable and camera cable connectors. It’s like uncovering hidden treasure!

– Gently persuade the camera cable to part ways with the foam tape along the LCD’s top edge. It’s a sticky situation, but you’ve got this!

Step 28

– Carefully tease the camera cable out of its cozy home on the camera board.

– Ease the display data cable connector away from its snuggle spot on the LCD.

– Slide both cables parallel to the logic board’s face like you’re smoothing out a bedsheet.

Step 29

– Rocking a Core Duo machine? Awesome! Check out picture 1 and whisk away those three Phillips screws that buddy up with the clutch assembly on the lower front of the display bezel, right by the display data cable.

– Oh, you’re on the Core 2 Duo Model A1211 vibe? Cool beans! Take a peek at picture 2 and gently remove the two Phillips screws that are chilling with the clutch assembly, snuggled at the lower edge of the front display bezel near that display data cable.

Step 30

– Unscrew the cheeky little Phillips screw hiding behind the display data cable.

– Slide off the small rectangular steel bracket from the right clutch hinge like a pro!

Step 31

– Unscrew the trio of Phillips screws that hold the clutch assembly to the front display bezel’s lower edge. It’s just a few twists away!

Step 32

– Give that clutch cover a gentle nudge away from the left hinge—it just needs a little encouragement to unclip and set itself free!

– Now, lift the clutch assembly right out of the front display bezel like you’re pulling a rabbit out of a hat!

Step 33

– Unhook the inverter/camera cable from the left clutch hinge and whisk it away from the display. Voilà, you’re doing great!

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