Author: Ralph Harris

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– As the adhesive starts to give, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that hate being pried:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Grab that blue handle and pull it back to unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms. It’s like opening a secret compartment—smooth and easy!

– Place something under your iPad to make sure it rests evenly between the suction cups. You want it comfy, right?

– Stick the suction cups right in the middle of the left edge—one at the top, one at the bottom. You’re aiming for a perfect balance here.

– Keep a steady hand on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp, and give the top suction cup a firm press. You’re locking in that perfect grip!

– Gently pull the blue handle forward to secure those arms like a pro.

– Give that handle a fun twist, turning it clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until those suction cups start stretching out just right.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they stay in sync with each other. If they start to wander off, just loosen them a bit and guide those arms back into alignment.

– Give it about a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap for you to work with.

– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to heat things up.

– When the Anti-Clamp opens a good-sized gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to start the separation.

– You can skip the next step.

– When the screen feels nice and warm, stick a suction handle on the left edge, right up close to the frame.

– Gently pull up on the screen with the suction handle to make a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to start loosening things up.

– Pop in a second opening pick where you just made some space.

– Gently glide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break that adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– If the opening pick finds itself a bit too cozy in the adhesive, simply give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation party going!

– Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break through the adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick lodged there to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the top edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, but stop just short of the front camera. Keep it smooth and steady, you’re almost there!

– Gently slide the pick in, keeping only the tip between the digitizer and the frame. Easy does it!

– Carefully glide the pick above the front camera to start breaking that adhesive seal.

– Hold the pick near the right side of the front camera before moving on—it’s like setting the stage for the next step!

– Pop the pick back in and slide it up towards the top-right corner of your iPad to fully loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Grab an iOpener and give it a good heat-up! Now, press it gently onto the right edge of your iPad and let it work its magic for about two minutes.

– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break that stubborn adhesive free!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly into the middle of the iPad’s right side edge.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and heated.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner and let it work its magic to separate the adhesive.

– Once you’re there, leave the pick in place before moving on to the next step!

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the iPad’s bottom edge.

– Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, but stop right before reaching the home button.

– Leave the pick just to the left of the home button and carry on with the next steps.

– Pop an opening pick into the little gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading towards the bottom-right corner—just let the tip sneak between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick back in place and gently glide it towards the home button to fully break free the bottom adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Once you’ve done that, just let the pick hang out to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.

– Give those opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad. This will gently lift the digitizer and help you break free from the last bits of adhesive holding it down. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to help peel away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!

– Gently hold the digitizer in place, then use an opening pick to carefully slide between the two digitizer cables. This will help separate the last bit of adhesive that’s still holding on tight.

– After you’ve expertly separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a charming little book and lay it down next to the iPad, just chilling.

– When you’re putting everything back together, take a moment to clean up any leftover adhesive from the frame—and if you’re reusing the digitizer, give it a little TLC with some isopropyl alcohol. Freshen things up by using our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards for a snug fit.

– Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re neatly tucked away under the LCD screen to keep everything safe and sound.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep a close eye on every screw you take out and remember exactly where each one came from—mixing them up could spell trouble for your iPad.

– Peel away any tape that might be hiding the screws before you start unscrewing.

– Grab a spudger and gently use the flat end to nudge the LCD out of its snug spot, just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book, starting near the camera and rotating it over the home button side of the frame.

– Place the LCD onto a clean, soft surface that won’t leave any lint behind, giving you a clear path to the display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew that 2.3 mm-long screw that holds the battery connector snugly to the logic board. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide that battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector, aiming for a cool 35-degree angle. You’ve got this!

– Keep that battery blocker snug in place as you dive into the next steps. It’s your trusty sidekick for this journey!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to take on those three little screws holding the display cable bracket in place. They’re just 1.4 mm long, so they won’t put up much of a fight!

– Time to get that display cable bracket off! Carefully remove it and set it aside. You’re one step closer to getting your device back in action!

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the LCD cable press connector to pop it up and disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to reattach those press connectors, take a moment to line them up just right. Start by pressing down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no middle pressing! If things get misaligned, those little pins might bend, and we definitely don’t want any permanent damage. Keep it cool and steady!

– Carefully take off the LCD and place it face down on a soft, clean, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s securing the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Keep it steady and make sure it comes out cleanly!

– Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently lift up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors. Easy does it!

– Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently lift the buffer block from the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

– Once it’s loose, remove the buffer block.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with “ghost” or “phantom” touches, don’t worry! This can usually be fixed by applying a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already come with the right insulation, so adding tape might not be necessary.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those glued areas with some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth. This prep step helps the new adhesive stick like a champ.

– Give your iPad a test run to check all functions, then use pre-cut adhesive strips on the back of the display following our adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding the upper component bracket in place.

– Grab those tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift the upper component bracket off the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the rear camera press connector.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy thirty-second hug on the rear camera. Your phone will thank you!

– Gently use a spudger to pop the rear camera loose from its frame.

– Carefully grab the rear camera with tweezers or your fingers and lift it out.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of the iPad.

– As the adhesive starts to soften, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that really don’t like being poked:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms—it’s like a little dance move!

– Pop something under your iPad so it sits perfectly between the suction cups—just like a cozy little bed.

– Plop the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one on top and one on the bottom, like two little buddies!

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and give the top cup a solid press to create some awesome suction magic.

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms in place.

– Twist the handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they’re playing nice and staying aligned. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a tad and bring those arms back together.

– Give it a minute to let that adhesive chill out and create a little opening for you.

– If your screen’s feeling a bit cold, a hair dryer can help warm up the left edge of your iPad.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has made a nice gap, slide in an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip the next step!

– Once your screen is feeling cozy and warm, grab a suction handle and plop it down on the left edge, nice and close to the edge for the best grip.

– Gently lift the screen with that suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Now, slide an opening pick into that little gap you’ve just made. Keep it steady and you’ll be golden!

– Pop in a second opening pick where you’ve just made some space.

– Gently slide that pick down towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to help release the adhesive.

– Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– If the opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going strong!

– Gently slide your trusty opening pick towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive that’s holding things together.

– Once you’ve made that initial separation, leave the pick tucked away in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from making a comeback.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Carefully twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive like a pro.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, but make sure to stop right before you hit the front camera – we don’t want any accidental selfies here!

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it tight.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before you move on to the next step.

– Pop that pick back in and give it a little slide towards the top-right corner of the iPad to fully break free the top adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Keep that pick in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all cozy again.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes.

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the pick snug in that corner before moving on to the next move.

– Pop a new opening pick into the little gap you just made on the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide that pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you reach the home button.

– Leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.

– Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip sneaks between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop the pick back in and slide it towards the home button to fully break the bottom adhesive free.

– Leave the pick just to the right of the home button and carry on when you’re ready.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and let it dance on the right edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just enough to break the last bit of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive that’s sticking to the right edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Keep a steady hand on the digitizer while gently sliding an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to carefully peel apart the last bit of stubborn adhesive.

– After you’ve loosened all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat alongside the iPad.

– When putting it back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and the digitizer—if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.

– Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen to avoid any damage.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the four screws that hold the LCD in place. They’re just 4.2 mm long, so they won’t give you too much trouble!

– As you dive into this repair, remember to keep an eye on those little screws! They’re like tiny puzzle pieces that need to find their way back home, so don’t lose track of where they belong to keep your iPad happy.

– Clear away any tape that’s blocking the way to the LCD screws. We need a clear path for this adventure!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its snug little home just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning the page of an exciting book, lifting it near the camera and rolling it over towards the home button end of the frame.

– Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface, giving you easy access to those display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s keeping the battery connector snugly attached to the logic board. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector, aiming for a smooth 35-degree angle. A little tilt goes a long way!

– Leave the battery blocker right where it is while you continue with the rest of the process. It’s happy there, and so should you be!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Easy does it!

– Carefully remove the display cable bracket to keep things moving smoothly.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.

– When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to prevent bending the pins, which can cause lasting damage.

– Carefully lift off the LCD and set it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps. You’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger, opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently flip up the tiny hinged lock on the home button cable ZIF connector.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently pry up and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You’ve got this!

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift up the buffer block hanging out near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

– Carefully take the buffer block off and set it aside.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel the home button cable away from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Start by gently taking off the front panel assembly. It’s like peeling a banana, but way more satisfying!

– If your new display is throwing a tantrum with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t fret! Just pop on a thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the highlighted areas at the back of the panel. No worries if you got an iPad replacement digitizer; it comes with the right insulation, so you can skip the tape.

– As you get ready to put everything back together, make sure to clear away any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth to clean those glued areas. This will prep your iPad for fresh adhesive and ensure a solid bond.

– Once you’re all set, take a moment to test out your iPad’s functions. Then, use our display adhesive application guide to stick those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display before you seal it up. You’re just about done, and it’s looking great!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three little 1.4 mm-long screws holding the upper component bracket in place. Let’s get this done!

– Grab those tweezers or your trusty fingers and gently lift the upper component bracket off the frame. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift any tape hiding the headphone jack’s press connector.

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack’s press connector to pop it loose and disconnect it.

– Grab those tweezers or use your fingers to gently lift the headphone jack cable away from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift off any tape hiding the front camera’s ZIF connector — almost there!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the front camera’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the front camera cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Warm up your iOpener and give the top of the iPad a cozy 90-second hug with it!

– Slide the flat end of your spudger right between the front camera and the frame.

– Carefully wiggle it up to loosen the adhesive without causing any trouble.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the front camera right out of its cozy little spot.

– Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the microphone assembly for about thirty seconds to loosen things up.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap between the front camera shell and the frame. It’s a smooth move!

– Gently glide the pick around the edge of the camera shell to break that adhesive seal. You’re doing great!

– Gently nudge the opening pick to pop the front camera shell away from the frame—easy does it!

– Now, go ahead and lift off the front camera shell.

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift and disconnect that microphone cable’s press connector. You’ve got this!

– Slide an opening pick between the frame and the bottom of the microphone, right by the press connector.

– Gently glide the pick underneath the microphone while lifting up to break the adhesive seal.

– Wedge a halberd spudger between the frame and the top of the microphone, close to the edge of the frame.

– Gently slide the spudger under the microphone and pry it sideways to break free from the adhesive.

– Gently wedge a halberd spudger between the frame and the right side of the microphone.

– Carefully slide the spudger while lifting to loosen the adhesive.

– Time to put your device back together! Just follow these steps in reverse and you’ll be good to go.

– Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Things didn’t go as smoothly as expected? No worries! You can try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our iPad 9 Answers community for a little extra guidance.

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– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes. This will soften things up, making the next steps a breeze!

– While the adhesive is doing its thing and loosening up, keep an eye out for these parts that really dislike being poked around:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set something under your iPad so it sits nice and even between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one up top, one down low.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down hard on the top cup to get a good seal.

– Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree turn clockwise, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups — they should stay perfectly aligned. If they start to slip, just loosen them a little and realign the arms before continuing.

– Take a breather for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little opening gap.

– If your screen isn’t warming up as much as you’d like, feel free to give it a gentle blast of heat from a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– Slide an opening pick underneath the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and made a big enough gap.

– You can skip the next step.

– Once the screen feels nice and warm, place the suction handle near the left edge, as close to the side as possible.

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle, creating a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve made, and carefully work it around to separate the digitizer from the frame.

– Pop in a second opening pick where you just made some space.

– Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break free from that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick snugly in the bottom-left corner to stop that adhesive from sticking back together.

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit sticky in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going strong.

– Gently slide the first opening pick toward the top-left corner of your iPad to break that adhesive seal. You’re doing great!

– Once you’ve got that pick in place, leave it there to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. Nice job!

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the top edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently twist that pick around the top-left corner of your iPad to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, but make sure to stop just shy of the front camera. You’ve got this!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays sandwiched between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick right over the front camera to carefully loosen that adhesive.

– Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Slide the pick back in and gently move it towards the top-right corner of the iPad to completely break free that pesky adhesive.

– Keep the pick in that corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of the iPad for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break that adhesive seal. You’re doing great!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it into the middle of the iPad’s right edge. You’re on your way to a successful repair!

– Warm up that iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to help break that adhesive bond. You’ve got this!

– Keep the pick snug in the corner while you gear up for the next step.

– Pop in a brand new opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you reach the home button.

– Keep that pick parked to the left of the home button as you move on to the next step.

– Pop your opening pick into the gap you just made like a pro.

– Gently slide that pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, keeping just the tip tucked between the digitizer and the frame.

– Grab that pick and gently slide it towards the home button to fully break free the bottom adhesive. You got this!

– Once you’ve done that, let the pick chill to the right of the home button before moving on. Easy peasy!

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Give those two opening picks a little twist at the left corners of the iPad. This will help you gently lift the digitizer just enough to break free the last bits of adhesive keeping it snug. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad. You’re doing great! Keep it steady.

– While carefully holding the digitizer in place, gently slide an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to free the last bit of sticky adhesive.

– After you’ve separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting everything back together, give the frame a little TLC by cleaning off any leftover adhesive with some isopropyl alcohol. If you’re reusing the digitizer, give it a clean too! Then, stick on some fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.

– As you reassemble the iPad, keep an eye on those display cables! Make sure they’re tucked away neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and tackle those four 4.2 mm screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the frame. They won’t know what hit ’em!

– As you navigate through this repair, keep your screws organized and remember their original homes. It’s like a puzzle, and we definitely don’t want to lose any pieces!

– If there’s any tape hiding those sneaky LCD screws, peel it away so you can get to the good stuff.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its snug spot just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning the pages of a captivating book, lifting it near the camera and swinging it over to the home button end of the frame.

– Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep those display cables nice and accessible.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and get ready to work your magic! Unscrew that 2.3 mm-long screw holding the battery connector tight against the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working to stay powered down safely.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those three 1.4 mm screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Unscrew them with care and keep them safe; they’re little but mighty!

– Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things running smoothly.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently lift up and disconnect that LCD cable press connector. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to reattach those press connectors, take your time! Start by aligning one side and give it a gentle press down until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same for the other side. Remember, no pressure in the middle! If things get misaligned, those little pins can bend, and we definitely don’t want that to happen.

– Carefully lift the LCD off and set it face down on a clean, soft surface that’s free of lint. Treat it like a delicate treasure—this part’s important!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s guarding the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable to coax it right out of that ZIF connector. You’re doing great!

– Gently use the flat end of that trusty spudger of yours to pop up and unplug those two digitizer cable press connectors. You’re doing great!

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge the buffer block up from the bottom-right corner of your iPad. It’s like giving it a little love tap!

– Now, go ahead and lift that buffer block right off. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the home button cable off the frame like a pro.

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, no worries! You can fix this by adding a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the marked spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already come with the right insulation, so you probably won’t need to add any tape.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean the glued areas thoroughly with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) using a lint-free cloth. This step gets your iPad ready for fresh adhesive and helps it stick like a pro.

– Before sealing it up, test all your iPad’s functions and apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display by following our display adhesive application guide.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to take on those three 1.4 mm-long screws holding the upper component bracket in place. Time to show them who’s boss!

– Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers and gently lift that upper component bracket off the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift off any tape hiding the left ambient light sensor’s ZIF connector, like revealing a little secret!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the left ambient light sensor’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle out the left ambient light sensor cable from the ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to carefully lift the sensor out of the frame. Easy does it!

– Grab those tweezers and gently tackle any leftover adhesive on the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel back any tape hiding the headphone jack’s press connector.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack’s press connector to pop it loose.

– Grab some tweezers or use your trusty fingers to gently lift that headphone jack cable away from the frame. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 3.3 mm screw holding that headphone jack in place. Once it’s out, you’re one step closer!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that headphone jack out of its cozy home. Time to set it free!

– Gently remove any tape that’s blocking the way to the front camera’s ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the tiny, hinged locking flap on the front camera’s ZIF connector using the pointy end of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the front camera cable straight out from the ZIF connector. No rush, just a smooth move!

– Place a heated iOpener on the top edge of the iPad and let it chill there for 90 seconds to soften up the adhesive.

– Slip the flat side of your spudger gently between the front camera and the frame. A little wiggle should do the trick!

– Now, carefully lift to peel back the adhesive, making sure not to rush it. Patience is key here!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the front camera out from its cozy spot.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the press connector to unplug the rear camera. Easy does it!

– Carefully remove any tape that’s holding down the button control cable ZIF connector. Let’s get that button ready for action!

– Grab the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your trusty fingernail, and gently lift the small, hinged locking flap on the button control cable ZIF connector. Take it slow and steady, and you’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently pull the button control cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and easy does it!

– Carefully peel away any tape hiding the Smart Cover sensor cable’s ZIF connector.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently wiggle out that Smart Cover sensor cable from the ZIF connector. Be careful and keep it straight as you pull it out!

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift and unplug the left antenna’s coaxial cable.

– Do the same for the right antenna’s coaxial cable—consistency is key!

– When putting everything back together, these connectors can be a bit stubborn. Hold each one steady over its socket and press down with the flat end of your spudger until you hear a satisfying snap.

– Gently lift up the right antenna cable.

– Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the frame, following the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently nudge up that buffer block in the bottom left corner of the iPad. It’s just waiting to be freed!

– Now, take your tweezers and delicately pluck out the buffer block. You’ve got this!

– Grab some tweezers or just your nail, and gently lift the tape that’s hiding the speaker connectors. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger, your favorite opening tool, or even your fingernail! Gently lift up that little hinged locking flap on both the left and right speaker cable ZIF connectors. You’re doing great!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the left and right speaker cables straight out of their ZIF connectors. Take it slow and steady—no need to rush! If you need help, feel free to schedule a repair.

– Gently use the sharp end of your spudger to carefully disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable. Aim to pry it up as close to the connector as you can for the best results!