Don’t Despair, Repair! Top Options for Your iPad Mini

Why iPad Mini repair Matters for Your Daily Productivity

When you need an iPad Mini repair, turning to a professional service like Salvation Repair is often the best choice. Professional technicians have the expertise and tools to handle these delicate devices correctly.

Common iPad Mini Repairs:

  • Screen replacement – $100-$300 depending on model
  • Battery replacement – $80-$125 across all generations
  • Charging port repair – $100-$145 for most models
  • Camera/speaker fixes – $80-$125 typical range

Important: The iPad Mini has a repairability score of only 2/10, making professional repair the safest choice for most users.

Your iPad Mini is more than just a tablet – it’s your portable office, entertainment center, and creative tool all rolled into one compact device. When it breaks, your productivity takes a hit and your daily routine gets disrupted.

The good news? iPad Mini repair doesn’t have to be a nightmare. Whether you’re dealing with a cracked screen, dead battery, or unresponsive charging port, there are reliable solutions that can get your device back in working order without breaking the bank.

As repair community discussions reveal, “Bring up the iPad mini in a conversation with the repair community and you will hear a roar of ‘Oh, I HATE the mini'” – but this reputation comes from the device’s sensitive components and specific repair requirements, not because it can’t be fixed properly.

I’m Ralph Harris, and with over 20 years of electronics repair experience and more than 500 Apple repair certifications, I’ve guided countless customers through successful iPad Mini repair decisions. My team at Salvation Repair has published over 2000 repair guides, and I’m here to help you choose the best path forward for your specific situation.

Infographic showing iPad Mini repair decision flowchart: assess damage severity, determine device age and value, compare professional vs DIY costs, choose between Salvation Repair professional service for complex issues or simple fixes for minor problems, with emphasis on professional service for screen repairs and battery replacements due to low repairability score - iPad Mini repair infographic roadmap-5-steps

First Steps: Identifying Your iPad Mini and the Problem

back of an iPad Mini with model number - iPad Mini repair

Before we dive into any iPad Mini repair, we need to play detective for a moment. Think of this as getting to know your patient before surgery – we need to identify exactly which iPad Mini you have and what’s wrong with it.

This isn’t just paperwork busywork, I promise. Different iPad Mini generations are like different car models – they might look similar on the outside, but under the hood, they’re completely different beasts. Using the wrong parts or repair approach can turn a simple fix into an expensive disaster.

How to Identify Your Specific iPad Mini Model

Finding your iPad Mini’s model number is easier than you might think, and it’s absolutely crucial for getting the right repair. Every iPad has a unique “A” number – like A1432 or A2133 – that tells us exactly which generation and type you have.

You’ll find this number etched in tiny print on the back of your iPad Mini, usually near the bottom. If your eyes aren’t what they used to be (no judgment here!), you can also find it digitally. Just go to Settings > General > About > Model Number and tap on it to reveal the “A” number.

Why does this matter so much? Because an iPad Mini 4 Wi-Fi model (A1538) uses completely different parts than an iPad Mini 5th Generation (A2133 for Wi-Fi or A2124 for Wi-Fi + Cellular). Even though they might look nearly identical from the outside, their screen assemblies, batteries, and internal components are rarely interchangeable.

Wi-Fi versus cellular models also make a difference. Cellular models have extra antennas and circuitry that can affect repair procedures, especially if we’re working on the device’s casing. If you need help identifying your specific model, check your iPad’s specifications for a comprehensive breakdown.

Diagnosing Common iPad Mini Repair Issues

Once we know which iPad Mini you have, it’s time to figure out what’s actually wrong. This detective work helps us fix the real problem instead of just treating symptoms.

Cracked screens and broken glass are by far the most common issues we see. Sometimes it’s just the top glass layer (the digitizer), and other times the LCD display underneath is damaged too. Either way, a cracked screen makes your iPad Mini frustrating or impossible to use.

Unresponsive touchscreens can be tricky. Your screen might look perfect but refuse to respond to touches, or worse, register “ghost touches” you never made. This often points to digitizer problems, and with iPad Minis, it can be related to those sensitive flex cables we mentioned earlier.

Battery problems sneak up on you over time. Your iPad Mini’s battery might be crying for help if it drains rapidly even with light use, won’t hold a charge for long, or causes unexpected shutdowns when the battery percentage still looks decent. Apple considers a battery worn out when it holds less than 80% of its original capacity. If your battery is swelling and pushing the screen up, that’s an emergency – stop using it immediately.

Charging port damage usually announces itself when your cable feels loose or your iPad Mini charges inconsistently. Sometimes there’s even a broken lightning connector tip stuck inside the port.

Broken buttons – whether it’s the home button, power button, or volume buttons – can range from stuck to completely unresponsive. Here’s something interesting about iPad Minis: on some models, the power button functionality actually routes through the digitizer home flex, making it more connected than you’d expect.

Speaker and camera issues round out the common problems. Distorted sound, no sound at all, or a camera that’s gone blurry or stopped working entirely are all fixable issues.

The iPad Mini has some unique quirks that make it challenging to repair. Its backlight circuit is particularly sensitive, and the digitizer connector is fragile – those tiny “gold teeth” can break off if handled roughly. Problems like a black screen, getting stuck on the Apple logo, or slow charging might seem like software issues but often point to hardware damage, especially after a drop or a DIY repair attempt gone wrong.

Pre-Repair Checklist: What to Do Before You Start

Before any iPad Mini repair begins – whether you’re bringing it to us or attempting a fix yourself – there are some important steps that can save you heartache later.

Backing up your data is absolutely critical. I can’t stress this enough. Back up to iCloud or to your computer before any repair work starts. While we’re extremely careful with your data, some repairs might require steps that could affect your files. If your iPad Mini won’t boot up, data recovery might still be possible, but having a backup is like having insurance.

Discharging the battery might seem counterintuitive, but it’s a safety measure. Try to get your iPad Mini’s battery below 25% if possible. Lithium-ion batteries can be dangerous if they get punctured or short-circuited during repair.

If you’re setting up for any hands-on work, organize a clean, well-lit workspace. Those tiny screws love to disappear, and delicate components can easily get damaged in a cluttered area. A magnetic mat is your friend for keeping screws organized.

Gather all necessary tools before you start – things like an iOpener, suction handle, spudger, specialized screwdrivers, and tweezers. Having the right tools makes all the difference.

Finally, have your Apple ID ready. If you’re bringing your device to a repair shop, having your Apple ID accessible can speed up the diagnostic process and help if your device needs to be restored.

Taking these prep steps seriously can mean the difference between a smooth repair experience and a frustrating one.

Professional iPad Mini Repair: Why Choose Salvation Repair

technician repairing an iPad Mini in a clean workshop - iPad Mini repair

When your iPad Mini stops working, you’re stuck with a tough choice. You could try fixing it yourself and risk making things worse, or you could trust a professional who knows what they’re doing. Here’s the thing – with the iPad Mini’s notoriously low repairability score of just 2 out of 10, going the professional route isn’t just safer, it’s usually the smartest financial decision too.

I’ve seen too many well-meaning folks turn a simple screen replacement into a complete disaster. What started as a $150 repair becomes a $400 nightmare when delicate ribbon cables get torn or the backlight circuit gets damaged. That’s where professional iPad Mini repair services really shine – we have the right tools, the experience, and most importantly, the steady hands that come from fixing hundreds of these devices.

The peace of mind alone is worth it. When you hand over your iPad Mini to a certified technician, you’re not just paying for the repair – you’re paying for the confidence that it’ll be done right the first time.

Why Trust Salvation Repair for Your iPad Mini

At Salvation Repair, we’ve built our reputation on being the go-to experts for iPad Mini repair throughout the Laurel, MS, Jackson, MS, and Oxford, MS areas. We get it – your iPad Mini isn’t just a gadget, it’s your portable office, your entertainment hub, and sometimes your lifeline to staying connected.

Our certified technicians have been through Apple’s training programs and stay current on all the latest iPad Mini quirks and common issues. Trust me, each generation has its own personality – from the tricky digitizer routing in the Mini 4 to the fused displays in newer models.

We only use high-quality replacement parts that meet Apple’s safety and performance standards. No cheap knockoffs that’ll fail in six months. When we fix your screen or replace your battery, it’s going to work like the original – sometimes even better.

Transparent pricing means no surprises. We’ll give you a clear estimate upfront, and we stick to it. We even offer price matching because we believe you shouldn’t have to shop around to get a fair deal.

Your data stays safe with us. We’ve got protocols in place to protect your personal information, though we always recommend that backup we talked about earlier. Our fast turnaround means most common repairs get done the same day – no waiting around for weeks.

But here’s what really sets us apart: our lifetime warranty on parts and labor. That’s not a typo. We stand behind our work for life because we know we do it right. Plus, we repair “any device with a power button,” so we’re your one-stop shop for all your tech troubles.

Want to learn more? Check out our iPad Mini repair services page for detailed information.

Understanding the Costs of a Professional iPad Mini Repair

Let’s talk money. Professional iPad Mini repair costs vary depending on what’s wrong and which generation you have, but it’s almost always cheaper than buying a new device. Here’s what you can expect:

Repair Type iPad Mini 2-3 iPad Mini 4-5 iPad Mini 6
Screen Repair $100 – $150 $150 – $250 $200 – $300
Battery Replacement $80 – $100 $90 – $125 $100 – $140
Charging Port Repair $100 – $145 $120 – $160 $130 – $175
Camera/Speaker Repair $80 – $125 $90 – $135 $100 – $145
Diagnostic Fee $50 – $80 $50 – $80 $50 – $80

The iPad Mini model you own makes a big difference in repair costs. Newer models with fused screen assemblies (where the glass and LCD are permanently stuck together) cost more to fix because we have to replace the whole display unit. Some older models let us do glass-only repairs if the LCD underneath is still good, which saves you money.

The type of damage also matters. A simple crack might be cheaper to fix than a completely shattered screen with LCD damage. Water damage or logic board issues obviously cost more than a straightforward battery swap.

Here’s the best part – our lifetime warranty is included in these prices. No extra fees, no fine print. When we fix your iPad Mini, it stays fixed. That’s a promise you simply can’t get from a DIY repair, and it makes the professional route the smart long-term choice.

Frequently Asked Questions about iPad Mini Repair

When your trusty iPad Mini starts acting up, you’re bound to have questions. After helping hundreds of customers through iPad Mini repair decisions, we’ve noticed the same concerns come up again and again. Let’s tackle the big ones together.

How much does an iPad Mini screen repair cost?

Here’s the honest truth: iPad Mini screen repair costs can range anywhere from $100 to $300, and the price depends heavily on which generation you’re dealing with and what exactly went wrong.

The older iPad Mini models (like the Mini 2 and 3) are actually a bit kinder to your wallet. These devices have separate digitizer and LCD components, which means if you just cracked the glass but the display underneath is still working perfectly, we can sometimes do a “glass only” repair. This keeps your costs in that sweet spot of $100-$150.

But here’s where things get trickier with the newer models. Starting with the iPad Mini 4 and continuing through the Mini 5 and 6, Apple decided to fuse the glass and LCD together into one unit. It’s great for making the device thinner, but not so great when something breaks. Even a small crack means replacing the entire display assembly, which pushes costs into the $150-$300 range.

What drives the price up or down? The biggest factor is your specific model – those fused displays on newer iPads simply cost more to replace. Then there’s the quality of parts we use. We could go cheap, but that usually means you’ll be back in a few months with the same problem. High-quality replacement screens with proper touch sensitivity and clear displays cost more upfront but save you headaches down the road.

When you bring your iPad Mini to us, we’ll give you an exact quote after taking a look. No surprises, no hidden fees.

Is it worth repairing an old iPad Mini?

This question hits close to home because we see people wrestling with it every day. The answer isn’t always black and white, but here’s how we help our customers think it through.

Start with the numbers. If your repair costs less than half of what a replacement iPad would cost, you’re usually in good territory. A $100 battery replacement on a device that would cost $400 to replace new? That’s a no-brainer. But if you’re looking at a $250 screen repair on an iPad Mini 2 that’s struggling with modern apps, it might be time to have a different conversation.

Think about how you actually use your iPad. If your iPad Mini 4 or 5 still handles everything you throw at it – checking email, reading, streaming videos, light gaming – then a repair can give you several more years of happy use. But if you’re constantly frustrated by slow performance or apps that won’t run, fixing the screen might just put a band-aid on a bigger problem.

There’s also something to be said for environmental responsibility. Every device we repair instead of replace keeps electronic waste out of landfills. It feels good to give your trusted companion a second life rather than contributing to the throwaway culture.

Sometimes the decision isn’t about money at all. We’ve repaired iPad Minis that held family photos from a loved one who passed away, or devices that kids used for their first digital art projects. When a device holds memories, its value goes way beyond dollars and cents.

What are the biggest risks of attempting iPad Mini repair without experience?

tools for delicate iPad Mini repair - iPad Mini repair

Let me be completely straight with you: attempting iPad Mini repair without proper experience is like trying to perform surgery with a butter knife. The iPad Mini has earned a repairability score of just 2 out of 10, and that’s not just some arbitrary number – it reflects how many things can go catastrophically wrong.

The backlight filter is your biggest enemy. This tiny component, often called the FL7500, is basically a booby trap waiting for inexperienced hands. If you disconnect the wrong connector first, or pull the battery connector from the board side instead of the battery side, you can fry this little filter. When that happens, you might end up with no backlight, or worse – your iPad gets stuck in a boot loop or shows a battery percentage that never changes. We’ve seen people replace perfectly good batteries and charging ports because they didn’t realize they’d damaged this filter during their “simple” repair attempt.

Those connectors are incredibly fragile. The digitizer connector has tiny gold contacts that can break off if you look at them wrong. Once those “gold teeth” are gone, you’re looking at complex microsoldering work that costs way more than the original repair would have. Even more frustrating? On some iPad Mini models, the power button functionality runs through the digitizer connector, so damage there can create multiple problems at once.

Small mistakes become big disasters. We regularly see DIY attempts where someone cracked the LCD while removing the glass, used the wrong length screw and punctured the logic board, or created permanent “oil spots” on the display by bumping the LCD shield. One customer came to us after accidentally tearing three different flex cables during what should have been a straightforward screen replacement.

The internet is full of cheap replacement parts that look identical to quality components but fail within weeks. Without experience, it’s nearly impossible to tell the difference until it’s too late.

Here’s the thing – we totally understand the urge to try fixing it yourself. But the iPad Mini’s delicate design and the precision required make it one of the most challenging devices to repair. We’ve built our reputation fixing the disasters that happen when well-meaning people take on more than they bargained for. Save yourself the heartache and let our certified technicians handle it right the first time.

Conclusion: Making the Right Repair Choice

We’ve explored the intricate world of iPad Mini repair, from identifying your specific model and diagnosing common issues to understanding the complexities and risks involved. Your iPad Mini is a valuable device, and when it breaks, you have several options, but making the right choice is crucial for its longevity and your peace of mind.

Repairing your iPad Mini is not just about fixing a broken screen or replacing a worn-out battery; it’s a sustainable choice that extends the life cycle of your device, reduces electronic waste, and saves you money compared to a full replacement. We believe in the power of repair to keep technology working for you, rather than constantly contributing to the upgrade cycle.

Choosing the best repair path depends on your skill level, budget, and the urgency of the repair.

  • If you’re an experienced electronics technician with specialized tools and a deep understanding of iPad Mini schematics, a DIY repair might be feasible, but still carries significant risks.
  • For most users, especially given the iPad Mini’s challenging repairability score and delicate internal components, professional iPad Mini repair is the safest and most reliable option.

At Salvation Repair, we are committed to providing top-tier, trustworthy repair services for your iPad Mini. With our certified technicians, high-quality parts, transparent pricing, and efficient turnaround times, we ensure your device is in expert hands. Our lifetime warranty and price match guarantee underscore our confidence in our work and our dedication to your satisfaction. Whether it’s a cracked screen, a battery that won’t hold a charge, or a finicky charging port, we’re here to help. After all, we fix “any device with a power button.”

Don’t let a broken iPad Mini disrupt your life. Choose to repair, and choose Salvation Repair for a solution that’s reliable, affordable, and backed by our unwavering commitment to quality.

Explore our tablet repair guides to learn more about how we can help you with your device.

Infographic summarizing benefits of professional iPad Mini repair, emphasizing expertise, genuine parts, and warranty for peace of mind - iPad Mini repair infographic 3_facts_emoji_blue

Samsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 25 Steps

Ready to swap out your motherboard? This guide takes you through the process, including popping off that rear glass cover—just remember you’ll need fresh adhesive to seal things back up. The motherboard and daughterboard aren’t the same for every version, so check if you’ve got the North American Snapdragon (G950U) or the international Exynos (G950F) model. We’re working with the North American one here, and the boards don’t mix and match between these types. Before you dive in, make sure to drain your battery below 25%—a lower charge means less drama if it gets poked. Let’s get your device back in action!

Step 1

– Pop your iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, like it’s the VIP at a dance party.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 2

– Give the iOpener a quick 30-second heat-up. It’s like giving it a mini spa treatment.

– While you’re working, keep an eye on it. When it cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another 30 seconds. Easy does it!

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 3

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but be smart—grab it by one of the flat ends, not the hot center. Trust us, your fingers will thank you later.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 4

– Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge your iOpener. Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water and let it sit for 2-3 minutes—make sure it’s completely underwater. Use tongs to gently remove the heated iOpener from the water and give it a thorough dry with a towel. Once dry, your iOpener is ready to go. If it needs a reheat later, just repeat the process: boil some water, turn off the heat, and dip the iOpener back in for a couple of minutes. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 5

– Get your iOpener nice and toasty, then lay it along one long edge of your S8 for 2 minutes. This helps loosen things up for the next step.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 6

– Next up: we’re slicing through the sticky stuff around the edge of the rear glass panel.

– Check out the first image to see exactly where that glue likes to hang out.

– Here’s the prying roadmap from the outside view:

– Thick glue zones—take it slow here.

– Thin glue spots—these are your easy lanes.

– Hands off this area! That’s fingerprint sensor territory.

Step 7

– When the back panel feels nice and toasty, stick a suction cup close to the warmed edge (just steer clear of the curvy part).

– Give the suction cup a gentle lift, then slide an opening pick under the rear glass like you’re sneaking into a secret club.

Step 8

– Once the tool is snug against the glass, give the iOpener a little heat and pop it back on to help loosen that stubborn adhesive. Keep at it until things start to soften up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 9

– Glide the opening pick along the edge of your phone—think of it as slicing through invisible glue, making way for your next move.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 10

– Repeat the heating and peeling process on the other three sides of the phone. Leave a small gap or opening pick on each side as you move along—this keeps the adhesive from sealing itself back up prematurely.

Step 11

– Grab your opening picks and slice through any leftover sticky stuff to ease the phone open a bit more.

– When you’re putting things back together, reconnecting that fingerprint sensor cable is all about finesse. Tilt the back cover so the cable connector lines up just right over its socket. Then, take the flat end of your spudger and give it a gentle press straight down to snap it in.

– Lift the glass off the phone—nice and easy.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 12

– To replace the back cover: follow this guide to put the old cover back in place or to install a new one without pre-applied adhesive. You might also need to transfer the camera bezel to your new part—if so, check out our camera bezel replacement guide. Use tweezers to carefully remove any leftover adhesive from the phone’s frame. Then, clean the contact areas with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to prep for fresh adhesive. Peel off the backing from the new rear glass, carefully align one edge with the phone chassis, and press the glass firmly onto the device.

Step 13

– Time to show those screws who’s boss! Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and take out all eleven 3.7 mm screws.

Step 14

– Take out the NFC antenna and the charging coil assembly. You’ve got this!

Step 15

– Start by unscrewing those three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws. Keep them safe—you’ll need them later. If you hit any snags, remember, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to get professional help.

Step 16

– Take out the loudspeaker assembly—easy does it!

Step 17

– Grab a SIM card ejector tool or a paperclip and find that tiny hole on the left side at the top edge of your phone.

– Give it a gentle press to pop out the tray—don’t worry, it’s easier than it looks.

– Pull out that SIM card tray and set it aside.

– When putting the SIM card back in, make sure it’s oriented correctly—match the shape and contacts to the tray so everything lines up perfectly.

Step 18

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry away the battery connector using the flat end. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 19

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and pop that sensor array connector loose. Easy does it!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 20

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently disconnect the front-facing camera connector. Keep it steady and avoid any yanks—patience pays off. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 21

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently disconnect the display and digitizer connector. Easy does it—just a little prying and you’re good to go. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 22

– Grab your spudger and gently pry apart the two antenna cables connecting the motherboard to the daughterboard. Carefully lift each cable free to keep things tidy and avoid damage. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if it gets tricky.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 23

– Grab your spudger and gently pop off that antenna ribbon cable connecting the motherboard to the daughterboard. Easy does it—no need for Hulk strength here!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 24

– Lift up the motherboard with the flat end of your spudger and pop it free from the daughterboard. Easy does it!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Motherboard Replacement

Step 25

– Now that you’ve re-applied that adhesive magic, it’s time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse and watch it come back to life.

– Once you’ve wrapped up the repair, give it a test run using the guide. If anything feels off or you’re scratching your head, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help!

Success!
Now that you’ve reattached everything, it’s time to put the pieces back together! Just retrace your steps like a detective on a mission, and you’ll have your device looking sharp in no time.
Once you’ve wrapped up your repair, give it a quick test run with this guide to ensure everything’s functioning smoothly. If you’re feeling a bit unsure or run into any tricky spots, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help!

Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 34 Steps

Ready to swap out the I/O daughterboard in your Samsung Galaxy S8? If your USB-C port or microphone is acting up, this guide’s got your back. You’ll pop off the rear glass cover—just remember, you’ll need some fresh adhesive to stick the back on when you’re done. Quick heads up: motherboard and daughterboard setups are different depending on whether you’ve got the North American Snapdragon (G950U) or the international Exynos (G950F) version. We’re rolling with the North American model here, and the boards don’t mix and match. Before you dive in, drop your battery below 25%—less juice means less risk if things get pokey. Let’s get you back up and running!

Step 1

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of your microwave.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 2

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds. Keep an eye on it, and as it cools down during the process, just zap it again for another thirty seconds to keep the heat going. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 3

– Pick up the iOpener and carefully set it aside, holding it by one of the flat ends to avoid the hot center. Easy does it, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to cover your iOpener.

– Crank up the heat until the water’s boiling, then switch off the burner.

– Drop your iOpener in the hot water for a chill 2-3 minutes—full soak required.

– Fish the iOpener out using tongs (trust us, your fingers aren’t up for this).

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry—no soggy tools allowed.

– Now your iOpener is good to go! If it cools down, just repeat the heating routine: bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener take another 2-3 minute dip.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 5

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on one of the long edges of your S8 for around 2 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 6

– Next up: we’re going to slice through the sticky stuff holding the rear glass panel in place.

– Check out the first image for the lowdown on how the adhesive is spread out around the back case.

– When you’re prying from the outside, here’s your game plan:

– Go slow around the chunky adhesive areas—they’re tougher.

– The thin adhesive spots are easier to work through.

– Heads up: steer clear of prying near the fingerprint sensor. Let’s keep that safe and sound.

Step 7

– Once the back feels warm to the touch, grab a suction cup and place it as close to the heated edge of the phone as possible—just watch out for that curved edge.

– Lift on the suction cup, then carefully slide an opening pick under the rear glass to start the separation.

Step 8

– With your tool set in place under the glass, give the iOpener another round in the microwave and warm things up again. This helps loosen up the sticky stuff, making your job a whole lot smoother.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 9

– Gently slide the opening pick along the side of the phone, letting it work its magic to break free the adhesive.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 10

– Repeat the heating and cutting steps for the other three sides of the phone, just like you did before. Keep an opening pick on each side as you go along—to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 11

– Grab those opening picks and glide them around the edges to slice through any leftover adhesive—don’t be shy, but don’t go Hulk mode either. Ease the phone open just a bit.

– When it’s time to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable during reassembly, tilt the back cover until the connector is lined up right above its home. Take your trusty spudger (the flat end, please), and gently press the connector straight down until it clicks into place. Nailed it.

– Now, lift the glass away from the phone. Steady hands win the race.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 12

– To put on a new back cover, follow these steps: either reinstall the old one or attach a new cover without pre-applied adhesive. If your device needs the camera bezel transferred, check out our camera bezel replacement guide. Use tweezers to remove any leftover adhesive from the chassis, then clean the area with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to get ready for the new adhesive. Carefully peel the backing off the new rear glass, line up one edge with the phone chassis, and press it firmly into place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 13

– Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the eleven 3.7 mm screws. You’ve got this—just take your time and keep track of your screws so nothing gets lost. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

Step 14

– Lift out the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly—it’s time for a little separation!

Step 15

– Unscrew three pesky 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws and set them aside like a pro.

Step 16

– Take out the loudspeaker assembly and set it aside—you’re one step closer to clear sound!

Step 17

– Pop a SIM card ejector tool or paperclip into the tiny hole on the left side of the top edge of your device.

– Gently press until the tray pops out—don’t force it, just a little push is enough.

– Carefully pull out the SIM tray and set it aside.

– When putting the SIM card back in, make sure it’s oriented correctly in the tray so everything lines up perfectly.

Step 18

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop the battery connector off—think of it like giving it a little nudge to say goodbye for now.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 19

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry off that sensor array connector. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 20

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to unplug the front-facing camera connector. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 21

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently disconnect the display and digitizer connector. Easy does it—no need to force anything. If you get stuck or want a pro to handle it, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 22

– Grab a spudger and gently pry to disconnect the two antenna cables that link the motherboard to the daughterboard. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 23

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the antenna ribbon cable and pop it free from its spot between the motherboard and the daughterboard. One small move for your spudger, one big step for your repair!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 24

– Slide the flat end of your spudger underneath the motherboard, then gently lift to disconnect it from the daughterboard. Let’s keep those moves smooth and steady!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 25

– Gently lift the motherboard out of the phone, giving it a steady, confident tug. Keep an eye out for any connectors or cables that might still be attached—disconnect those carefully if needed. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 26

– Unscrew that one 3 mm Phillips #000 screw—just twist it out and set it aside.

Step 27

– Grab your spudger and gently use its point to disconnect the headphone jack connector. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 28

– Slide the tip of your trusty spudger between the headphone jack and the board, right at the corner of the jack that’s closest to the ribbon cable.

– Gently coax the headphone jack out of the board using the spudger—be nice, it deserves a smooth exit!

– Now, go ahead and take out the headphone jack. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 29

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the two antenna cables out of their cozy slot next to the battery compartment. No need for wrestling—just a smooth move and you’re good!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 30

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift those antenna cables out of their slot. Steady hands, you’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 31

– Unscrew five tiny 3 mm Phillips #000 screws and set them aside, so they don’t escape on you!

Step 32

– Carefully bend the motherboard connector down towards the bottom of the phone, making sure it’s out of the way of that pesky antenna ribbon cable.

Step 33

– Now it’s timeMITO gently coax the antenna ribbon cable away from the side of the lungs case using your trusty tweasers. Take your time and be patient, as this can be a delicate process.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 34

– Once you’ve stuck everything back together, just retrace your steps to put your device back in business.

– When you’re finished, give your repair a test drive to make sure everything’s running smoothly. If you hit any snags, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Success!
Once you’ve put that sticky stuff back on, just retrace your steps to put your gadget back together. You’ve got this!
When you’re all done with the repair, follow this guide to give your device a test run. If things get tricky, feel free to schedule a repair!

Samsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 18 Steps

Get ready to give your Samsung Galaxy S Galaxy S8 Galaxy S8 Galaxy a fresh new Galaxy look by replacing the front Galaxy camera assembly. First, take a deep ‘breath’ and remove the rear glass cover – don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds. Just remember to grab some replacement adhesive for when you’re ready to put everything back together. Before you start disassembling, make sure your battery is at 25% or lower – trust us, you don’t want any unexpected fireworks. If you need help along the way or get stuck on a step you can always salvage your situation and schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 2

– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a quick thirty-second warm-up.

– Keep that iOpener toasty—if it cools off while you’re working, just give it another thirty seconds in the microwave to bring back the heat.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 3

– Grab the iOpener by one of the flat ends and carefully lift it out of the microwave—watch out for that hot middle!

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 4

– Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge your iOpener. Heat the water until it reaches a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water and let it sit for 2-3 minutes—make sure it’s completely submerged. Using tongs, gently remove the heated iOpener from the water and dry it thoroughly with a towel. When it’s dry, your iOpener is ready to go! If you need to reheat it later, just boil some water, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener back in for a couple of minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 5

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the long edge of the S8 for around 2 minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive so the device opens up more easily. If you need a hand with any step, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 6

– Time to slice through the sticky stuff—you’re going to cut around the edge of the rear glass panel.

– Check out the first image to see exactly how the adhesive is laid out on the back case.

– Here’s the outside prying map:

– Big, chunky adhesive spots—these take a bit more effort.

– Slim adhesive lines—easier to work through.

– Heads up: steer clear of this area to keep the fingerprint sensor safe and sound.

Step 7

– Once the back panel is nice and toasty, grab a suction cup and place it as near to the warmed edge of the phone as you can, steering clear of that curved edge.

– Give the suction cup a little lift, and slide an opening pick right under that rear glass.

Step 8

– With your tool snugly in place under the glass, give the iOpener another round in the microwave and set it back on to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 9

– Glide the opening pick along the edge of the phone to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 10

– Now, let’s keep the momentum going! Just like before, heat things up and cut around the remaining three sides of the phone.

– And remember, keep an opening pick on each side as you move along to ensure that pesky adhesive doesn’t seal back up on you.

Step 11

– Start by gently slicing through any leftover adhesive with the opening picks to loosen the phone apart. When it’s time to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable during reassembly, angle the back cover into place until the connector lines up just right. Then, use the flat end of your spudger to carefully snap the connector into its socket by pressing straight down. Finally, if you need to remove the glass from the phone, proceed with care to avoid cracks. For more complex steps, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 12

– To swap out your back cover, start by following this guide to either put back the old one or install a new cover without sticky stuff already on it. You might also need to transfer the camera bezel to your new part—if that’s the case, check out our camera bezel replacement guide. Next, grab some tweezers and carefully peel away any leftover adhesive from the phone’s chassis. Then, wipe down the adhesion areas with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth to get everything clean and ready for the new adhesive. Finally, peel the backing off your new rear glass, align one edge against the phone chassis, and press it firmly into place. If at any point you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 13

– Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and unscrew those eleven 3.7 mm screws. Keep them safe—you’ll need them when it’s time to put everything back together. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 14

– Lift out the NFC antenna and charging coil—like unwrapping a tech present. Smooth moves!

Step 15

– Start by grabbing your precision screwdriver and locating those three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws. Once found, carefully remove all three to move forward with your repair journey.

Step 16

– Take out the loudspeaker assembly—just a little gentle persuasion and it’s free!

Step 17

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop the battery connector free. Easy does it!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 18

– Once you’ve re-applied that adhesive, it’s time to put your device back together—just retrace your steps like a pro!

– And hey, after you’ve wrapped up the repair, give your handiwork a little test run to make sure everything’s working smoothly. If you hit a snag, no worries! You can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Success!
Once you’ve slapped that adhesive back on, cruise through these steps in reverse and get your device back together.
When you’re done, make sure everything’s working as it should. If you hit any snags, you can always schedule a repair.

Samsung Galaxy S8 Display Adhesive Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 4 Steps

Ready to swap out that stubborn screen adhesive on your Galaxy S8? Just follow this straightforward guide to get your display back in top shape. Remember, this step works best alongside the Galaxy S8 screen replacement instructions. If you hit a snag or need a pro hand, you can always schedule a repair. Let’s get that phone looking fresh again!

Step 1

– First things first, let’s tidy up! Get rid of any sticky residue and dust from the phone’s frame. Grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) and a lint-free cloth, and give that adhesion surface a good cleaning.

– Next up, lay out those adhesive strips and take a moment to visualize where each one belongs.

– Now, carefully peel off the clear plastic backing from the large pre-cut adhesive strip to reveal the sticky side.

Tools Used
  1. Isopropyl AlcoholSamsung Galaxy S8 Display Adhesive Replacement

Step 2

– Align one edge of the adhesive with the matching edge of the phone frame—think of it as your first step to a smooth finish. Gently lay the adhesive onto the frame, making sure it sits nicely without sticking prematurely. Once it’s in the right spot, use your fingers to press and smooth it out, ensuring a snug fit. If things aren’t perfectly aligned, no worries—carefully peel it back up and try again until it looks just right. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 3

– Carefully peel off one end of the adhesive strip from its clear backing. Yep, just like opening a new snack.

– Grab the strip by the two green tabs—like you mean it—and match it up with the frame of your phone.

– Gently lay the adhesive onto your phone, making sure all the cutouts are lining up where they’re supposed to.

– Once everything is lined up, press the adhesive down with your fingers to lock it in place.

– Now, repeat the process for the other adhesive strip. You’re on a roll!

Step 4

– Keep putting your device back together until you’re at the screen step. Almost there!

– Peel off the green plastic from all the sticky strips so the glue can do its thing.

– Line up the phone screen carefully and place it gently on top of the adhesive.

– Press all around the edge of the phone with your fingers to make sure the adhesive sticks.

– Stack a couple of books on top of the screen for about an hour to help everything bond together. You’ve just leveled up your repair game!

Success!
Ready to tackle that Galaxy S8 screen replacement? Just hop on over to the guide right here! If you find yourself in a pickle, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!

Samsung Galaxy S8 Active NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 8 Steps

Ready to swap out the NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly on your Samsung Galaxy S8 Active? You’ll start by popping off the back cover, so grab some fresh adhesive to seal it back up when you’re done. Make sure your battery is under 25% charged before you dive in, since a lower charge means less drama if the battery gets damaged. Take your time, follow each step, and you’ll have your phone back together in no time!

Step 1

– Grab your trusty SIM card ejector tool (or just an unfolded paperclip if you’re feeling crafty) and gently slide it into that tiny hole on the left side at the top of your phone.

– Give it a gentle press, and voilà—the SIM tray will pop out like magic!

– Carefully pull the SIM card tray out from your device.

– When you’re ready to pop the SIM card tray back in, make sure the gold contacts are facing up and the little notch is down to the right. Just press the card gently into the slot, and you’re all set!

Step 2

– Grab your TR6 Torx Security Screwdriver and unscrew the four black 3mm screws hanging out on the outer edges—these are the ones keeping the rubber bumpers locked down.

– Lift off those rubber bumpers from the top and bottom edges, giving your device a little breather.

Step 3

– Gently warm up the edges of the back with a heat gun to soften that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep it light and even—you want just enough heat to loosen things up without turning it into a mini sauna.

Tools Used
  1. Heat GunSamsung Galaxy S8 Active NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly Replacement

Step 4

– Slide the Jimmy tool under the edge of the back cover like you’re sneaking into a secret club.

– Once you’ve got the Jimmy tool in position, pop an opening pick into the seam to keep things open—just in case your Jimmy tool wants to bail early.

– Take your time working around the top edge and watch out for the fingerprint sensor and camera cables. No need for heroics here; don’t pry too deep up top.

– Glide the Jimmy tool down both sides, cutting through the adhesive like you’re opening a stubborn bag of chips.

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly Replacement

Step 5

– Grab the opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive holding things together.

– Carefully open the back cover just enough to peek at the fingerprint sensor flex cable connector.

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly Replacement

Step 6

– Gently flip the cover over and lay it down on the rest of the device, like you’re tucking it in for a nap.

– Pop off the fingerprint flex cable using the flat end of your spudger—think of it as a little high five for your tech.

– Lift off the back cover and set it aside. You’re officially inside the device club.

– To reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable when putting things back together, tilt the back cover until the flex cable is chilling right over its socket. Then, use the flat end of your spudger to press the cable straight down—no wrestling moves needed, just a gentle snap.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly Replacement

Step 7

– Start by removing eleven 3.5 mm screws with a Phillips #00 screwdriver—these hold things together snugly. Then, find the two 2mm screws and take those out next, also with your Phillips #00. Keep going steady—you’re making progress! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for a hand.

Step 8

– Once you’re done, just walk back through the steps in reverse and your device will be back in action. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly Replacement

Success!
Ready to put it all back together? Just reverse the steps above and your device should be good as new. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair with us!

Samsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 24 Steps

Ready to swap out your Galaxy S8 Active’s I/O Daughterboard? This guide walks you through replacing parts like a glitchy USB-C port or a microphone that’s gone quiet. You’ll pop off the back cover, so keep some fresh adhesive handy to put it back together. Before you get started, make sure your battery’s below 25% charged—less juice means a lower chance of any fiery surprises if the battery gets poked. Let’s get started and keep things cool!

Step 1

– Grab your trusty SIM ejector tool or a straightened paperclip and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the left side at the top edge of your device. Give it a soft push to pop out the SIM tray. Carefully pull out the tray from the device. When reinserting the SIM card, make sure the gold contacts are facing up and the notched corner is at the bottom right. Gently press the SIM card into the tray, then slide the tray back into place. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.

Step 2

– Grab your TR6 Torx Security Screwdriver and remove the four black 3mm screws around the edges of the device that are holding the rubber bumpers in place. Then, gently peel off the rubber bumpers from the top and bottom edges of the device to get them out of the way. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 3

– Grab your heat gun and gently warm up the edges of the back cover. This will loosen up the sticky adhesive holding the cover to the frame and make it easier to pop off.

Tools Used
  1. Heat GunSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 4

– Slide the Jimmy tool under the edge of the back cover to get a good grip. Once it’s in place, tuck an opening pick into the seam to hold it open—this keeps the gap from closing if the Jimmy slips or you need to reposition. Carefully cut around the top of the device, taking care not to damage the fingerprint sensor or camera cables. Be gentle near the top so you don’t pry into the sensor itself. Then, slide the Jimmy tool down the sides to gently loosen the adhesive and free the back cover. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 5

– Grab your opening pick and gently slide it through any leftover sticky stuff to loosen it up.

– Carefully open the back cover just enough to spot the fingerprint sensor flex cable connector—no need to go all the way, just enough to see what’s what.

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 6

– Gently flip the cover over and place it on top of the device like you’re setting down a pancake—nice and easy.

– Pop off the fingerprint flex cable with the flat end of your spudger. Just a little lift, no superhero strength needed.

– Lift off the back cover. It should come off with a gentle tug—no wrestling required.

– When it’s time to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable, tilt the back cover so the flex cable lines up with its socket. Press straight down with the flat end of your spudger until you hear a satisfying snap.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 7

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out eleven 3.5 mm screws—think of it as a tiny workout for your wrist.

– Next up, remove two 2 mm screws with the same screwdriver. You’re basically a pro at this by now.

Step 8

– Gently pop out the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly using the flat end of your spudger—like you’re flipping a pancake.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 9

– Slide the flat end of your spudger under the loudspeaker assembly and lift it out. Easy does it!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 10

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully remove one 3.5 mm screw. Keep it handy—you’re one step closer to the next part of the fix. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 11

– Gently disconnect the headphone jack flex cable by prying it loose with the flat end of a spudger. Keep it careful and steady—you’re doing great! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 12

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and slide it into the headphone jack at the bottom of your device.

– Lift the screwdriver gently to pop the headphone jack out—no need to muscle it, a little nudge will do!

Step 13

– Gently disconnect the battery flex cable with the flat end of a spudger—think of it as giving your device a little nap time before the next step. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 14

– Unscrew one 3.5 mm screw with your trusty Phillips #00 Screwdriver. You’ve got this!

Step 15

– Use the flat end of a spudger to gently disconnect the Volume Up, Volume Down, and Bixby button flex cable. Keep it friendly and straightforward—you’re just freeing these little connectors so you can move on to the next step. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 16

– Gently detach the display flex cable using the flat end of your spudger. A little finesse goes a long way here—don’t rush it.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 17

– Gently pry off the charging port flex cable using the flat end of a spudger. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 18

– Gently detach the black and white antenna cables using the flat end of a spudger. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 19

– The motherboard sits on top of the daughterboard, connected by a flex cable. Gently disconnect this cable using the flat end of a spudger—think of it as unplugging a tiny, delicate cord. If you need a hand with any step, you can always schedule a repair to get professional help.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 20

– Take the flat end of your spudger and set it along the top edge of the motherboard like you’re about to pull off a magic trick.

– Gently pry up the motherboard—show it some love, don’t force it—and lift it out.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 21

– Grab your Philips #00 screwdriver and take out five screws (they’re 3.5 mm each). Easy does it—just keep track of those tiny guys!

Step 22

– Gently disconnect the black and white cellular antennas using the flat end of a spudger. Easy does it—just a light pry to keep everything intact. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 23

– Gently lift the flex cable connecting the charging port to the motherboard with the flat end of a spudger. Take your time—this step is all about finesse. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Step 24

– Ready to put everything back together? Just reverse the steps and your device will be back in action. If you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair for some backup.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active I/O Daughterboard Replacement

Success!
To put your device back together, just walk through these steps backwards. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

Samsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 9 Steps

Ready to give your Samsung Galaxy S8 Active a fresh selfie-taking life? This guide walks you through swapping out the front-facing camera. Heads up: you’ll need to take off the back cover, so have some replacement adhesive handy for when you seal everything up again. Make sure your battery is charged below 25% before you start—if things go sideways and the battery gets poked, you’ve got less risk of wild fireworks. If you need backup at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Time to get that SIM card out – grab your trusty SIM card ejector tool (or a trusty unfolded paperclip) and gently slide it into the tiny hole on the left side of the top edge of your Salvaged phone.

– Give it a gentle press to coax out the SIM tray. Don’t worry, it won’t put up a fight.

– Now that the SIM tray is out, carefully remove it from the device.

– Ready to put everything back together? Make sure the gold contacts on the SIM card are facing up and the notch is at the bottom right, then gently slide it back into its tray. Easy peasy.

Step 2

– Grab your trusty TR6 Torx Security Screwdriver and unscrew those four black 3mm screws from the outer edges of your device. These little guys are holding the rubber bumpers in place, so let’s set them free!

– Now, gently peel off the rubber bumpers from the top and bottom edges of your device. You’re doing great!

Step 3

– Gently warm up the edges of the back with a heat gun—think of it as giving the adhesive a little nudge to loosen up. This softens the glue that holds the back cover in place, making it easier to peel off later. If you need a hand with this step, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. Heat GunSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 4

– Slip the Jimmy tool under the edge of the back cover, nice and easy. We’re just getting started!

– Once the Jimmy tool is snug under the edge, pop in an opening pick to keep that seam open. Trust us, it’ll help if the tool slips or you accidentally pull it out.

– Take it slow as you cut around the top part of the device, being extra careful not to mess with the fingerprint sensor and camera cables. A gentle touch near the top is key—no need to go digging too deep.

– Now, gently slide the Jimmy tool down the sides of the device, separating the adhesive. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 5

– Grab the opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive keeping things in place.

– Gently pry the back cover open just enough to see the fingerprint sensor flex cable connector—no need to go all the way.

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 6

– Gently flip the cover open and lay it down on top of the device—think of it as giving your device a little nap before the next step.

– Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully disconnect the fingerprint flex cable—no rush, just a gentle wiggle to free it up.

– Remove the back cover completely—it’s like peeling off a cozy jacket from your device.

– When reconnecting the fingerprint sensor, angle the back cover so the flex cable lines up smoothly over its socket. Then, use the flat end of a spudger to gently press the cable down into place—snap it in securely and you’re good to go.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 7

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew eleven 3.5 mm screws—like a pro!

– Now, tackle the two tiny 2 mm screws with the same screwdriver. You’re on a roll!

Step 8

– Gently lift out the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly with the flat end of your spudger. No need to wrestle with it—just a smooth, steady move does the trick!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Step 9

– Gently disconnect the front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard using the flat end of a spudger. Then, carefully lift the camera from its slot with tweezers, taking your time to avoid any damage. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement
  2. TweezersSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Front-Facing Camera Replacement

Success!
Ready to put it all back together? Just retrace your steps in reverse, and your device will be up and running. If things get tricky or you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Samsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 14 Steps

Get ready to tackle your Samsung Galaxy S8 Active display replacement! This guide will walk you through the exciting journey of removing the back cover. Just a heads up—you’ll need some fresh adhesive to seal that back cover back on snugly. Before diving in, make sure your battery is below 25% charged. A battery can be a bit of a drama queen if it’s punctured or damaged, leading to potential fire or explosion, so let’s keep it chill by keeping it under 25%. And don’t forget, check out the iOpener Heating guide for a handy walkthrough on using the iOpener. Let’s get this fix done!

Step 1

– Grab your SIM card ejector tool (or, let’s be real, a trusty paperclip) and poke it into the tiny hole on the left side at the top of your phone.

– Give it a gentle push until the SIM tray pops out like magic.

– Lift the SIM card tray out—no need for muscle, just a little finesse.

– Ready to put it back? Make sure the SIM card’s gold bits are facing up and the notch is hanging out at the bottom right. Slide the tray back in, pressing softly, and you’re good to go!

Step 2

– Start by grabbing your TR6 Torx Security Screwdriver. Remove the four black 3mm screws around the edges that keep those rubber bumpers in place. Once they’re out, gently peel off the rubber bumpers from the top and bottom edges of the device. If you get stuck or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 3

– Grab your trusty heat gun and give the edges of the back cover a gentle warm-up! This will help loosen the adhesive that holds the back cover snugly to the frame, making it easier to get in there and do your thing.

Tools Used
  1. Heat GunSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement
  2. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 4

– Gently slide the Jimmy tool underneath the edge of the back cover. Once it’s in place, wedge an opening pick into the seam to keep it from snapping shut if the Jimmy slips or you need a breather. Carefully cut around the top edge of the device, taking your time to avoid messing with the fingerprint sensor and camera cables. Be cautious not to pry too deep at the top to keep everything safe. Then, glide the Jimmy tool down the sides, working to loosen the adhesive as you go. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement
  2. Suction HandleSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 5

– Grab your opening pick and glide it along the edge to slice away any leftover adhesive.

– Gently lift the back cover just enough to spot the fingerprint sensor flex cable connector—no need for acrobatics here!

Tools Used
  1. JimmySamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 6

– Gently flip the cover over and set it down atop the device, like turning a page in a book. Next, use the flat end of a spudger to carefully disconnect the fingerprint flex cable—think of it as unplugging a tiny, delicate ribbon. Remove the back cover completely. When it’s time to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable, angle the back cover just right so the flex cable lines up over its socket. Then, use the flat end of your spudger to gently press straight down, snapping the cable into place with a reassuring click. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 7

– Time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove eleven 3.5 mm screws. You’ve got this!

– Now, let’s tackle two more screws! Use that same Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two 2mm screws. Almost there!

Step 8

– Pop out the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly with the flat end of your spudger. Take it easy—no rush, just a little gentle prying action.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 9

– Gently pry off the loudspeaker assembly using the flat end of a spudger. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 10

– Gently pop off the display flex cable from the motherboard with the flat end of your spudger—like you’re unplugging a tiny, stubborn headphone jack.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 11

– Lay the smooth side of a heated iOpener over each edge of the device for about 90 seconds to loosen up the adhesive holding the display. Reheat the iOpener as needed to keep it warm and effective.

Tools Used
  1. Heat GunSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement
  2. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 12

– Place a suction cup in the center of the bottom half of the screen to get started.

– Gently pull up on the suction cup until a small gap forms between the display and the frame.

Tools Used
  1. Suction HandleSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Step 13

– Slide your opening pick into that little gap between the screen and the frame—made by giving the suction cup a gentle pull.

Step 14

– Now that you’ve taken your device apart, just retrace your steps to put it all back together. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair with the pros.

Tools Used
  1. Suction HandleSamsung Galaxy S8 Active Display Replacement

Success!
Now it’s time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse, and you’ll have your device all set and ready to go. If you hit a snag, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some extra help!

Samsung Galaxy S8+ Teardown

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 17 Steps

Samsung is making waves again! Kicking off 2017, the tech giant introduces a powerhouse of a smartphone—the Galaxy S8+ with its massive 6.2-inch display that’s sure to impress. But how does it hold up under the teardown spotlight? Let’s dive into the details! And if you were on the hunt for our classic Galaxy S8 teardown, look no further. Want to stay ahead of the game for future teardowns? Keep up with us on Twitter, connect with us on Facebook, and check out our Instagram for all the latest updates!

Step 1

– Ready to dive beneath the shiny shell of the S8+? Let’s check out what’s packed inside this powerhouse:

– Big, beautiful 6.2-inch Super AMOLED display with curves for days and a crisp 2960 × 1440 resolution (529 ppi)

– Muscle under the hood: Qualcomm Snapdragon 835 or Samsung Exynos 8895, teamed up with 4 GB RAM

– Photo magic: 12-megapixel back camera with speedy dual pixel autofocus and 4K video skills; 8-megapixel front camera for your best selfie game

– Space for everything—64 GB built-in storage, plus room for a MicroSD card (up to 256 GB extra)

– Not afraid of a splash: IP68 water resistance rating

– Runs smooth on Android 7.0 Nougat

Step 2

– At the bottom of your device, you’ll find the usual suspects: a headphone jack, USB-C connector, microphone port, and speaker grille—all where you’d expect them to be.

– The front face is super sleek and smooth. There’s no physical home button to fiddle with anymore; instead, it’s all tucked under the display, courtesy of a nifty pressure sensor. This makes the device feel totally seamless, like one solid piece.

– A quick heads-up for those of you who love to swap SIM cards like pros: there are two very similar openings on the top of the S8+. One is for the SIM eject tool, and the other holds a microphone. Trust us, you don’t want to mix those up, so keep your eye on which one is which!

Step 3

– Let’s take a moment to compare a few things before diving into the nitty-gritty.

– When stacked up against last year’s models, the standout changes are the new flash assembly and the repositioned fingerprint reader.

– In this trio, we’ve got the S7 Edge on the left, the S8+ in the middle, and the S8 on the right.

– Thanks to its sleeker bezels and unique 18.5:9 aspect ratio, the S8+ fits a 6.2″ display into a form factor that’s almost identical to the 5.5″ S7 Edge.

Step 4

– Enough waiting—let’s get a look inside. By now, we know what’s coming.

– A generous round with the iOpener heats things up, loosening the adhesive so we can pry up the rear glass and start making some progress.

– Almost there…

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerSamsung Galaxy S8+ Teardown

Step 5

– This rear panel has a little twist—housing the fingerprint reader in the back with a short cable connecting it to the motherboard. Once the glass is out of the way and the cable is dispatched, you’ll see that the S8+ and S8 moved to a glass back, saving Samsung some engineering effort on antenna placement, but making repair a bit trickier. The cable is designed to come free easily—pull the rear panel gently, and the tiny connector pops right out, reducing damage risk compared to more stubborn sensors. Keep in mind, the more cracks and a tricky opening, the more careful you’ll need to be when working through this part. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 6

– Since the midframe is coming apart in chunks, this setup now looks pretty similar to the S7 and S7 Edge. This time around, the top antenna assembly is integrated with the NFC and wireless charging panel, just like on the Note7. Plus, the coil should also handle Samsung Pay functions by mimicking MST — probably using the coil as an electromagnet to act like a credit card strip on a reader. If you need a hand with any tricky parts, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 7

– Fingers crossed that Samsung’s updated testing methods are the missing piece for the Note7, because this design feels pretty familiar to us.

– The S8+ packs a 13.48 Wh (3500 mAh at 3.85 V) battery—exactly the same size as the Note7, and just a tad smaller than the S7 Edge’s 13.86 Wh.

– Samsung is still ahead of Apple in the battery showdown, with the iPhone 7+ coming in at 11.1 Wh (2900 mAh at 3.82 V).

– And boy, is that adhesive a tough cookie to crack. Even after you’ve removed the battery, that glue can be a stubborn friend.

Step 8

– Let’s carefully remove the action-packed motherboard and start taking off those cameras!

– The legendary ‘Hero’ Sony has made way for the sleek ‘Dream1’ Sony in the rear-facing/main camera. Despite the name change, it’s still rocking the same camera hardware as the S7/S7 Edge—just with some snazzy software updates from Samsung.

– Now, let’s move on to the front-facing camera and the fancy iris scanning camera, which you might remember from the Note7.

Step 9

– Let’s take a peek at this motherboard’s silicon by pushing the cameras aside. Here’s what we found lurking underneath: the Samsung K3UH5H50MM-NGCJ 4 GB LPDDR4 RAM sitting right on top of the MSM8998 Snapdragon 835 processor, a Toshiba THGAF4G9N4LBAIR 64 GB UFS storage (that’s NAND flash plus a controller), and a Qualcomm Aqstic WCD9341 audio codec keeping the sound in check. We’ve also got a Skyworks SKY78160-11 front-end module with an LNA for signal boost, an Avago AFEM-9066 front-end module, a Qualcomm QET4100 envelope tracker for power management, and a Silicon Mitus SM5720 Interface PMIC to keep everything running smoothly. If you need help with this process, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 10

– Flip it over and check out these cool parts:

– Qualcomm WTR5975 RF transceiver – handling all your radio signals.

– Murata KM7118064 Wi-Fi module – keeping you online.

– Avago AFEM-9053 front-end module – making sure your connections are crisp.

– Qualcomm PM8998 (similar to PMM8920) power management – keeping the power flowing just right.

– NXP PN80T NFC controller with a secure element – for those tap-to-pay moments.

– Renesas (formerly IDT) P9320S wireless charging receiver – powering up without the cables.

– Probably a Knowles MEMS microphone – so your voice comes through loud and clear.

Step 11

– Let’s spot some key chips, round two:

– Qualcomm D5320—probably your high-band diversity IC

– MAX98506 from Maxim Integrated—pumping up the audio as your amplifier

– Qualcomm PM8005—working hard behind the scenes in power management

– MAX77838—another Maxim Integrated chip on power duty

– Samsung S2MPB02—making sure the camera gets its juice

– Samsung S2MM005X02—likely wrangling that USB power delivery

– Samsung S5475S2—probably the brains behind camera processing

Step 12

– IC Identifications, pt. 3:

– Meet the NXP Semiconductor PCAL6524—your 24-bit I/O expander buddy.

– There’s probably an ON Semiconductor FPF3688UCX load switch hanging out here (odds are good).

– ON Semiconductor FAN48630UC35X 1.5 A synchronous regulator—keeping things powered up smoothly.

– Vishay DG2730: a 2-port, 480 Mbps DPDT USB 2.0 analog switch, ready for some speedy data moves.

– NXP Semiconductor NCX2200 comparator, always keeping an eye on those voltage levels.

– ON Semiconductor FXLA0104QFX 4-bit voltage translator, bridging voltages like a pro.

– Likely a few low/mid-band front-end modules making wireless magic happen.

Step 13

– IC Identifications, pt. 4 (sensor squad):

– STMicroelectronics LSM6DSL—your go-to 3-axis accelerometer/gyroscope (probably!) for detecting flips, shakes, and spins.

– STMicroelectronics LPS22HB Pressure Sensor—keeping track of the air vibes.

– AKM Semiconductor AK09916C—handles the compass action with its 3-axis wizardry.

– Ablic (formerly Seiko Instruments) S-5712CCDL1-I4T1U Hall Effect Sensor (likely)—magnet sensing magic.

– Analog Devices (model mystery)—heart rate sensor, because your device cares about your pulse as much as you do!

Step 14

– Out comes the I/O daughterboard! Check out all the clever waterproofing around here—the speaker grille is wrapped up snug, and there are little seals on the USB Type-C port and headphone jack, all working hard for that IP68 badge.

– The headphone jack is still keeping things modular, which is a win for repairs since it’s a part that sees a lot of action.

– You’ll also spot some antenna tuners on this daughterboard, plus what’s likely a Semtech SX9320 proximity sensor hanging out here.

Step 15

– Take a quick look at the heat pipe and button cables—time to pull a few more pieces out of the chassis.

– Next up, out comes the trusty old vibrator motor.

– Don’t forget the sensor array (yep, that one with the moisture indicator)!

– Could be the RGB LED (most likely).

– That IR emitter—probably for the iris scanning camera.

– And last but not least, we’ve got the AMS TMD4906 rangefinder/color sensor module, possibly for dimming the screen during calls.

Step 16

– We’re on the quest for the elusive home not-button, so let’s get into the display—even if it’s been a bit dramatic before.

– The fused display and digitizer actually come up from the frame with a solid amount of effort, but hey, no broken parts here.

– Hoping for some secret sauce beneath the display cables, we peel them back and… nothing. No model numbers, no hidden sensors. Maybe next time!

– Samsung S6E3HA6 display driver spotted.

– STMicroelectronics fingertip touchscreen controller found.

– Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8Mb serial NOR flash memory hanging out here too.

Step 17

– That wraps up the S8+ teardown! If you’re curious about the regular Galaxy S8, check out our breakdown of that one.

– And now, let’s hand out a score for this phone.

Success!

🍪
Have a cookie! This site uses cookies to enhance your experience. Opt-Out Options.