How to Replace iPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: Before diving into this fix, make sure you’ve got a clean, clutter-free workspace. If you’re not feeling totally techy today, no worries! You can always schedule a repair with us. Let’s get this show on the road!
Grab this guide to swap out that Lightning connector with ease. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. A clean microwave means less chance of any pesky residue sticking to your iOpener. Let’s keep things neat and tidy!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit!
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Step 2
Hey there! Keep the iOpener cool as a cucumber during your fix-up. Overheating is a no-go, unless you’re keen on turning it into a fireworks show. So, let’s keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
Hands off if it’s looking like a balloon! Swollen iOpener alert is your cue to pause.
If the middle is still turning your fingertips into toast, let it chill out before you go for another round of heating. When it’s in that sweet spot, it’ll keep things toasty for about 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a little toasty warmth in the microwave for a cool thirty seconds.
– As you work your way through this repair, if your iOpener starts losing its cozy heat, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty-second warm-up. Keep that cozy heat coming!
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Step 3
Caution: The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might just be your best buddy here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from that toasty center!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to cover your iOpener completely.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then take it off the heat.
– Pop your iOpener in the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a nice hot bath!
– With tongs in hand, safely fish out the iOpener from its soak.
– Give it a good dry with a towel—make sure it’s nice and dry.
– Your iOpener is all set and ready to rock! Need to heat it again? No problem. Just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and let your iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you hit a snag, schedule a repair and we’ll be glad to assist!
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!
– Got a cracked screen? Let’s keep it from getting worse and keep those fingers safe by slapping some tape on it.
– Cover the whole screen with clear packing tape. Just stick a bunch of overlapping strips on there till it’s fully taped up.
– Try to follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Once the glass is cracked, it might keep breaking while you’re working. If that happens, a metal prying tool can help you scoop out the broken bits. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 6
Alright, you might encounter some broken glass on this adventure, so it’s a smart move to rock those safety glasses to shield yourself from any sneaky flying bits.
– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it makes good contact with the surface. Give it a nice little smooth out!
– Let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and open up that front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle here and there as needed. You’ve got this!
– There’s a sneaky little spot in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the top right corner, about 2 inches (or around 5 cm) from the iPad’s top. We’re going to use this to our advantage!
– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in slightly, just enough to open up the crack a bit.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly in place between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Alright, let’s keep the momentum going! Grab that plastic opening tool and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass until you’ve got about half an inch in there. Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 12
– While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, letting it work its magic and releasing the adhesive as you go.
The adhesive is super strong—get ready to flex those muscles a bit! Just take it slow and steady. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Hey there! If you notice the tip of the opening pick peeking out from underneath the front glass, go ahead and pull it back just a smidge. While getting that deep won’t hurt anything, it might leave some adhesive gunk on the LCD. But no worries, you’ve got this! And if you need a hand, feel free to schedule a repair.
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Step 13
– When your trusty pick hits a sticky spot, give it a little twist and slide along the side of your iPad to keep freeing that adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
As you work on peeling off that sticky adhesive from the right side of your iPad, you might find it helpful to reheat the iOpener and place it back on that edge. After all, your iPad might have cooled a bit during the operation. And remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair for some expert assistance!
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Step 14
– Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This clever move keeps the sticky adhesive from sticking back down.
– Give your iOpener another warm-up session and then transfer it to the top edge of your iPad. It’s like a cozy blanket for your device!
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Step 15
– Alright, folks! It’s time to roll up those sleeves and tread carefully. We’re about to tackle some delicate work here.
– You’ll need to gently detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep those fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, take your time and follow these steps closely!
Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out at the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case, secured with some screws and a cable. Given its unique position, just handle with care while you’re at it. Otherwise, we might end up doing the antenna dance—and not the good kind! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: avoid sliding that pick past the bottom right corner. You wouldn’t want to accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, right?
– Gently glide that trusty opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, letting it work its magic to break free from the adhesive there.
Step 17
Hey there, as you shimmy that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep a sharp eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is chilling dangerously close to the corner, so make sure the adhesive doesn’t get released the wrong way. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Just give that pick a gentle tug—no need to yank it out completely! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip cozy under the front glass. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up that adhesive hanging out by the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re almost there!
Step 18
– After you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, give that pick a little nudge to the right to break free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating sessions to a minute max, and give it a cool two-minute break before you heat it up again. Your device will thank you!
– Keep working your way around the bottom edge of your iPad—it’s like adhesive origami! Pull the opening pick out a bit so it can dance around the home button, then slide it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re clear past the button. If you’re feeling stuck, remember, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Slide the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has taken a chill, just pop that iOpener back on the top edge and keep on truckin’. If your iOpener isn’t feeling warm enough, give it another heat-up!
– Glide that opening pick along the iPad’s top edge, making a slight detour around the selfie camera bracket.
– Brace yourself – the adhesive here is no joke and can require a bit of muscle. Take your time and keep it steady to avoid any mishaps with your iPad or yourself.
– If that pick gets snug in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still pretty sticky, just give that iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top of your iPad and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!
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Step 24
Heads up! The digitizer cable is chilling about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to park the pick roughly 2.25 inches (60 mm) up from the bottom. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be cautious! The digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and proceed gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive from the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
Looks like some of that sticky stuff holding your iPad together decided to cling on a little harder around the edges. No biggie! Just slide a pick along the perimeter where the glass is playing hard to get and give that adhesive a little nudge. And remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab one of those trusty opening picks, nudge up that bottom right corner of your iPad, and get a good grip with your fingers. You’ve got this! Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 27
Heads up! There’s quite possibly some sticky adhesive still clinging on. Grab an opening pick and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive that’s keeping the front panel stuck down. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like giving your iPad a little stretch!
– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to wipe away any dust bunnies or fingerprints on the LCD. It’ll make your screen shine like new!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the home button ribbon cable aside to free that pesky bottom left screw.
– Alright, let’s get this screen out of the way! Use your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver to unscrew and remove the four 2 mm screws that are keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and steady!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger, and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and lay it down gently on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
– Gently use the tip of your trusty spudger to lift the tape shielding the LCD ribbon cable connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board. Easy peasy!
– If the LCD screen is playing hard to get and doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, just give your iPad a little nudge by holding down the power button and home button for at least ten seconds until the Apple logo makes its grand appearance. You’re almost there!
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Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without getting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If you see it, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. Let’s get everything ready for the next step!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 36
– Gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable out of its snug little spot in the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the piece of tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors. You’ve got this!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently free the adhesive holding down the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– With a steady hand, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to coax the adhesive away from the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– With a gentle tug, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
– Next up, carefully lift off the front panel from your iPad. It’s like peeling an orange, but way cooler!
Step 42
If you see it, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape hiding the Lightning connector cable. You’ve got this!
Step 44
– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the Lightning connector snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 45
– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the Lightning connector cable straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 47
– Gently wiggle and pull the Lightning connector straight out from its snug little home in the back case. You’ve got this!
